Pit Dog is no longer answering questions about Dirt Bikes but his earlier replies are still posted Click to send well wishes to Pit Dog

To all my readers and fellow riders.
I am announcing my retirement from this column. I originally envisioned a small section on the FTR site for readers to get answers to their off-road riding questions and get them posted for entertainment and general information to the site readers. It has been my pleasure to respond to the questions with some professional insight, a little humor, and a lot of heart, to readers and riders World-Wide. I understand this column took hits my times the number of any other location on the site. I intend to take a break, while I search for the heart it took to be that involved and do the column on a daily basis. Please contact the Web Master of this site for assistance to issues on off-road riding.
Thank you very, very much.
Pitdog

Oh great and honorable Dog of the Pit. I recently bought a KTM LC4 400 (2000 model brand new). I have noticed that it seems to have too much space between 1st and 2nd gears. When 1st is winding out, a shift to 2nd still doesn't yield the "pop" you want on the trail. Questions: 1- what can I do to help the above mentioned? 2- any recommendations to get some more horsies out of the stock bike? Thanks.

Pitdog: Darn those European engineers. It's the opposite of what the Japs do on the late model KX. Why can't they go riding with us so they can understand what we would like? Until then, the only choice you have now is to change your sprocket gearing so you can get a compromise. Since we use first not very often, I suggest getting the other ratios more suitable. As usual, I suggest proper jetting for some free horsepower. Tricky cam numbers also do a lot but you'll be hard pressed to find a tuner who can do that type of setting up.

Hey Big Dog, quick question. I own an '01 CR125 and ride Croom on weekdays and M/X tracks on weekends. I change the trans oil every 3 rides with Honda trans fluid. I have recently noticed that the trans fluid seems to be somewhat low after every other ride -- is this normal wear? Is fluid being lost through cylinder because of constant jumps and whoops? I keep bike very clean and no drips anywhere. Just a little concerned. RJG

Pitdog: Can we get a job where you work so we can ride that much too? First of all, you need to changes the tranny fluid on a 125 after every ride. Next, why don't you measure the amount so you'll know for sure? The only place the oil can go is in the cylinder through the crank seals. Guess what?

Can you race a 80cc in Women B class?

Pitdog: I guess I could if I was a woman. Contact the FTR for official rules information but as far as I know a Specialty Class rider can run any scoot that is safe for the course.

Pit Puppy. Love your stuff in here. I'm an aggressive trail rider with a 2001 XR400R. Chain & sprocket time is here. What brand do you prefer? RK, DID, Renthal, etc. What is the difference/advantages between X-Ring vs. O-ring? Also, I'd like to be able to bring the front end up a little easier in 2nd and 3rd. I'm not a "top speed rider" so how many teeth should I add on the rear sprocket to accomplish this added "low end snap"? Thanks, Don

Pitdog: From what I've heard lately, all manufactures are going to the X-ring design for their ring chains. The X-rings have more sealing surface area so that's a good thing. Also, they may have less drag -- not sure. I've always recommended buying the best chain and sprockets you can find for off-road riding. That way you could safely get an entire season on the stuff with no worries. You'll find top quality chains from all major manufacturers. Think about using a one tooth smaller front sprocket for testing a new ratio. This will be like 2-3 teeth on a rear that's much more expensive to change. You could test this change before you buy the complete set up.

Dear Pit Dog. My question is about gasoline/octane. I understand some guy's run race fuel in the bikes, like 100, 104, and even 110 octane. Is this OK to run in today's bikes, and what are the advantages and disadvantages? Thanks, Burning to Know

Pitdog: Fortunately, late model production scoots are engineered for premium pump fuel. Older models, such as my buddy's 80 CR250 was designed for 97 octane so we jet it a little fat for safe performance on today's pump fuel. This makes it stutter at times on acceleration but he rides around that condition instead of going through the time and expense of finding race fuel. High octane in fuel is the primary way of controlling its flash point. Temperature, pressure, and ratio in the air it's mixed in also are factors. Factory scoots generally run race fuel because the pressure (or compression), has been increased. This is instant horsepower but also wears the motor out much quicker. For you, if you jet your motor down to take advantage of the control race fuel will give you, it will make slightly more horsepower. But understand, you will be pushing the limits of the durability engineered into the motor based on pump fuel. All this means you can expect the cylinder, rod, crank, and other component wear to increase faster than it does already. I see no need to spend more money on fuel so I can spend more money at rebuild time in order to get my scoots to go slightly faster. I could just train harder but you know....

Pit Dog; With the price of cylinders today, which have their special coatings, and as often as they need to be replaced, why don't more budget minded guys with 2 strokes get their cylinders re-sleeved with liners which have the ability for future bores? Also, you have me leaning towards a used YZ400F. What weaknesses or problems are associated with that bike so I know what to look for when purchasing. So far I have heard or kick arms breaking, difficult hot starts, and clutches wearing quickly.

Pitdog: The problem with sleeving a plated cylinder has always been that heat transfer to the fins or cooling jackets will never be as good. This requires the tuner to set up the bore slightly looser than he would like to allow for more piston expansion. The result is lower horsepower and a shorter piston life. Plated and chromed cylinders can be repaired, in most cases, which is a much better way of retaining original engineered heat displacement. Stress to other parts of a scoot like the kick lever and clutch are universal to 2 and 4 strokes. (I've replaced many a clutch on my 125 and the kick lever and the shaft that snapped on my 250, both 2 strokes.) There is no solution to a hot start problem on a kick 4 stroke. I'll take a quote from a recent car guys advice column -- "It's the stingy man who pays the most."

Mr. Dog. What would a fair price to sell a 2000 Yamaha YZ250 in excellent condition?

Pitdog: As much as possible! No really, when the 2002s came out your scoot dropped another $500 instantly. That's going to put the what I call quick sale value at between $3000 and $3500. You'll need to prove condition to a smart buyer like having records of what the latest piston fit size was on the last top end job and clutch history. Good luck.

Dear Pit Dog. As to what I understand about the Scotts steering stabilizer is that it only slows down uncontrolled motion when the wheels moving away from the center, and bleeds the oil while straightening out. I'm wondering if GPR's steering stabilizer that slows motion both ways is that much better?

Pitdog: I've only ridden with the WER and The Scotts so I'm not sure. Both are adjustable and they do make a difference. Try it.

Dog. You recommended a YZ400f? Are they not a lot more expensive compared to used 2 stroke 250's or 500's? You said you don't like the CR500 for it may stall in tight sections, but what about the hot starting problems of the 4
strokes?  I can't imagine myself adjusting valves instead of rebuilding the top end. If I was to bring a 250 up to 300 cc's what can be done to increase the cooling ability?

Pitdog: The last time I checked a YZF426 cost about the same as a YZ250. When they are used it gets closer yet but the 2 stroke might need a cylinder. Which is better for you? At times I'd rather adjust the valves on ten 4 strokes than spend money on cylinders and pistons every season for one 2 stroke (I still pay that cost). You could look for larger radiators for an overbore scoot but the water pump and head flow would be the same.

I have a 2000 DRZ400s with a 436 big bore kit and a Hinson clutch and basket. I wanted to know what are the possible problems, if any, is there to running motorcycle specific synthetic oil in my motor? Thanks!

Pitdog: That may be the best choice you can make but also read Eric Gorr's article on oil (just happens to be what I've used all along). Eric Gorr's Forward Motion

Pitdog. First let me say, love your articles. I have a Peewee rider and he wants to go to Motocross school with a small class or individual training. I am all out of advice for him. Please help.

Pitdog: The local tracks around Central Florida have class on Saturday mornings. It's cheep and will do him a world of good, check with yours. What I found about my kids is, they are to hardheaded to listen to me when they will listen to a stranger all day long (built in parent conditioning). Make sure he has all the proper gear and the scoot is the best it can be.

Hello. I've a 97 XR650L. The cable from the coil to the plug broke at the plug housing. It seems Honda sells only the cable with the coil. Any way to fix and replace just the cable?

Pitdog: If the plug cap is broken you could get an aftermarket one that screws on to the cable. If it broke at the coil, you could buy an aftermarket coil that has a threaded coil wire slot but that would cost nearly as much as the Honda coil.

Pitdog. I really enjoy your forum and get a lot out of it although sometimes I think you forget that a lot of us wanna be racers are on a low budget. I'm trying to get my KDX jetted and I'm getting closer, still rich, but getting to where the plug is not just all black. I think I know how to read a plug but I've heard that the additives in today's gas makes it difficult or impossible. You keep recommending plug reading. Wasup?  

Pitdog: There's nothing wrong with being a low budget racer (my race bike is a 96), what you do for it is what matters. I never got much joy in not finishing or having to nurse my scoot around a course. You end up asking yourself how could I have avoided the failure. The answer is, keep your stuff in like new or very workable condition to REDUCE the chance of failure and the expense of replacing major components. This is a long term approach to winning and being on the start line next season. Bottom line is, do you want to compete for the win or be a back marker? Riding a scoot with serious mechanical questions will not help. Now for your question on jetting. Reading the plug is the simplest way to tell what the combustion temperature is and that's where the horsepower is. 2 strokes also run cold if you putt around at part throttle so that has to be discounted out. You must test at a fairly hard pace on a familiar course so you can feel the change that jetting makes. What you feel and hear must come together with what you see on the plug. The fuel we buy today is a lot better than years ago because it is more stable. Just work with the highest octane pump gas unless you need race fuel.

Dear P.D. I have a '99 YZ400F. The rear shock bumper (inside the spring riding the bottom of the shaft), has begun to come apart. What are my best options? Try to replace it myself or send it to a company that specializes? Should I let a company like Racetech, etc., do an upgrade while it is there? Are these bumpers replaced often? Thanks. Rough rider

Pitdog: Do not, under any circumstance, take a shock apart without training on the subject and the correct tools. Nuff said. The bumpers do deteriorate with time, but so does the shock oil. Shocks need to be serviced and inspected at least once a season for that reason. '99 huh?

Mr. Dog. Does the Gold Valve really make a difference for the forks, or is the same as Re-valving?

Pitdog: That really depends on existing wear. The Gold Valve is an excellent product made of exceptional materials. A novice rider would not notice much difference from a good stock set up, however. For a scoot several years old or one that had sub standard forks from the get go, like a DR, the valve would be the best part on the unit. Communication with a suspension tuner is the real secret. Also, your understanding of how to change your set up for different tracks can help you immensely. Add on parts rarely make you faster. Understanding how to use what you have definitely will.

Okay Dog, here's a long one. I haven't been on a bike in about 10 years. Last one was an 85 KX500. SO at 33 years old I want to ride again. I'm a bigger than average guy, being a retired bodybuilder, I'm 6'0" weighing in at 225 lbs lean. Want to get back into riding and even begin to race Motocrossing would love to buy Honda's new CR450 but just getting back into it I can't bring myself to shell out $6300 bucks. I plan to buy a used bike approximately 2-3 years old. I am very fluent with the wrenches so mechanical issues are not a problem. So here my questions begin. Should I go with 250 or 500cc? Are there any MX tracks even offering a Novice 500 or Open class? I am leaning towards a 250 and re-sleeving it to 300 cc's. Can this be done on today's bikes, as I did it in the 80's, and fit them with Wiseco pistons? What about suspension? Can I get the suspension of a 250 or 500 to handle 225 lbs? Final question -- brand? I have always been partial to CR's for their reliability. I am also a 2 stroke fan, for their ease of rebuilding and no low end bogging like most 4 strokes, but the horizon shows 4 strokes. Should I look for a used YZ400f or maybe an ATK or some Euro 4 stroke? Any suggestions and insight will be greatly appreciated.

Pitdog: OK, here's a short to your long. You're stressing way too much on the whole thing. Facts are, you are an Open class rider just because of your weight. 250s work well for the 150-200lb crowd but get pushed after that. Bore jobs stress the stock cooling system too far, in my opinion. 4 strokes don't bog like they did in the old days because of accelerator pumps built into the carbs. I never liked the CR500 for off-road because it stalled easily in tight sections. The KX500 is just a brute. There are a lot of YZF400s around because riders moved up to 426s. I'll bet a sweet deal is just waiting for you on one. Any scoot you chose will need spring work for your weight. Welcome back.

Pitdog. I currently own a 95 XR250. I'm in the market for a bigger bike and the one that I'm looking at is the 2002 YZ250F. The question that I have to ask is. My dad says "you don't race so why do you want a race bike" and I say "almost everyone has a race bike and most of them don't race" so why can't I get one? I want to try the inverted suspension, more power, and lighter weight of the YZ250F. Any ideas on how to convince him into buying me one? Thanks for the help.

Pitdog: Saying everyone else has one won't cut it. Try writing down the reasons why your old bike won't do what a new one will. He may have other reasons for not getting you any new scoot (like money, or your grades, or your messy room). You say you're in the market but who's paying? Good stuff comes to the worthy.

Pitdog. I have a TTR250 1998 model and have been having trouble with the starter motor housing breaking. What could be causing it and will it be possible to replace it with a kick starter? If you are unable to help could to let me know of some else who might know. Timmy

Pitdog: Such a failure could be caused by ignition timing not correct. Also the starter drive may be worn or the ring gear. Sounds like you need direct advanced knowledge assistance.

Dear Pitdog. I'm wondering if my 2000 XR200 has any hidden restrictors, besides the one in the airbox? I know I'm losing torque and a couple ponies somewhere.

Pitdog: It sure does. It's called inherent design. The XR200 may be the worlds best trail bike, for some folks, but that's about it. A small carb, piston, and exhaust just don't make any horsepower but the design is nearly indestructible. No sense in trying to make it do what it wasn't meant to do because other stuff will bust. Buy a race bike to go fast.

Hey Pitdog. I'm interested in a 125. My dad says he won't buy a KTM because you are always tinkering with the settings and parts. Is this true?

Pitdog: Not really. On the older units you will have more of a time getting it to do what a Japanese bike does. Later models aren't as far off. The KTMs come stock with excellent components that wear better than the Japanese bikes. The real problem is dealers are not in every town like the big four. This is one reason why their used value drops like a rock. Choose wisely and always listen to your dad.

How do change the coolant in a 1991 KX250?

Pitdog: Considering the year, you should really take the radiators off and force water through them from the bottom fittings. Also, force water through the water jacket fittings to the block. Don't use flush cleaner material. There is a drain screw on the water pump housing to drain the block completely. Refill will specific motorcycle coolant and non-mineral water.

Last week I spent all of my hard earned coins and bought an 85 CR250. It runs good now, which makes me think that the $800 bargain I got could be "too good to be true." The problem is when the back tire leaves the ground the shock kicks out (extends) sending the seat up with a fury. It is as though I am being thrown over the handlebars. Is the shock shot, or is it just my head? As I recall, the seller mentioned that it doesn't have an adjustment. Please help me lest I be saddle sore and bow legged for the rest of my life. Thanks

Pitdog: You are correct on several subjects. One, the $800 bargain will be in the eye of the beholder. Two, the shock is most likely so worn that the rebound no longer works. Three, you will end up on your head, be saddle sore or bow legged, if you push hard. And four, I'm not sure if it's adjustable. Now your best bet is to have a pro look at the shock and see if it can be saved. Along with that proposal have the entire scoot checked over by a pro to see what else major you'll be looking at. Consider what you will have after those estimates.

Pitdog. I heard of a new carb (Quicksilver pumper), that does not flood. It has some sort of vents -- is this for real? My 01 Honda XR650R sure could use some help? Also, I just remove the restrictor plate. Should I re-jet also? Thanks, Jerry in Nokomis.

Pitdog: Nokomis?? Is that up there near Normal? Anyway, what happens on any scoot is, fuel spills in the intake when it tips over. This helps to start a CR500 when cold. A carb that could contain the bowl fuel would seam to help that problem. I've not tested the Quicksilver but I do know it is a very good carb otherwise. If you removed the backfire screen in the air box I would put it back. Only Paris-Dakar racers need that mod. Jet according to performance and plug color, not mods.

Hey Dog. Just wanted you to know that I did try a Heli-Coil for the stripped drain plug. It worked out great! If anyone out there has the same problem this was a great solution. Another lesson learned! See ya at the races!

Pitdog: Thanks. At least I know I fixed one when I sit here.

Pitdog. I have a 1974 DT 175-A Yamaha. The trouble is, it is burning the oil out of the transmission. What will it take to repair this? Need help. Would it be worth fixing? Thanks Ray

Pitdog: Probably not. The crank seals separate the transmission oil from the lower end. A proper rebuild could include a rod, piston, crank and cases reworked, way too much moola for such an old scoot. Invest in something that runs.

Mr. Pit Dog. My son has a 2000 Kawasaki KX100 with after market pipe and reeds. I went 1 size richer  on the main jet and have played with the needle clip position but the bike still runs lean. Any ideas? Also what would be a good selling price? Thanks, KX DAD

Pitdog: Dad, just telling me it runs lean does nothing for diagnosis. Tuners start by reading the plug. KX100s are very easy to tune, surprisingly. $2000 would be a good selling price but buyers are scarce.

Hey Dog. I recently stripped out the oil drain plug on a KX80. Damage was done by previous owner. I have been babying it for a long time and now needs to be repaired properly. How should this be fixed? Should I tap to the next larger size? Trying to make the next Harescramble, HELP!

Pitdog: There may not be enough metal area to tap to the next size plug. Apparently you don't know what a Heli-Coil is. Have a pro install one for you.

Pitdog. I own 2 -- 50cc Husqvarna minis. My oldest son races the 50cc Senior, and my youngest son races the 50cc Beginner. The question I have is what can I do to these minis to give them the power of a Cobra or a Polini. They (Polini and Cobra) woop my sons tail at the races and I'm too new at this to tell what they are doing. I know they need porting and polishing but what else can I do to increase the performance without damaging the bike.

Pitdog: I usually don't answer the 'how do I get more power' issues but think about this. I've said before that the jetting requirements change on small displacement motors when the sun goes behind a cloud. Jetting down for more horsepower is a very fine line for minis because of this and the heat that damages the clutch and ignition. Tuning a mini for dependability and performance is therefore extremely complex. Hot-rodding one will guarantee you headaches. Fortunately your riders will progress quickly and need new scoots anyway. Get ready by learning what you can to help them without emptying your wallet.

Hey Dog. My XR400 has a slight tapping sound and blows a little smoke when you get on it -- still has plenty of compression and power though. It could be the ring? I'm not sure. Should I be thinking more along the lines of valves, crank, what?

Pitdog: 4 strokes could go years without a top end overhaul, depending on usage. Since you didn't say what year, yours is up for grabs but blowing smoke on acceleration usually is the ring seal. Tapping sounds are most likely valve lash because they simply need adjusting. They are tough but not indestructible.

Hi Pit Dog. I'm 40 years old and wanting to buy my first bike. I plan to use the bike mainly for trail riding. The problem is I can't decide on the best bike for someone my size, 5'5" and 150 lbs, and a beginner. The more information I receive the more confused I get. I'm thinking about a Yamaha TTR125L but concerned it might be to small. Also, I'm looking at the TTR225, TTR250, the Honda XR200, and the XR250. Of the I mentioned which do you think would best suit my needs? I want something as I become experienced I will still enjoy? The TTR 125L just sitting feels the most comfortable while I'm told the bigger the better, so should I go the 250 route. Clearly I need some solid advice. Thanks!

Pitdog: Of the scoots you mention, only the XR250 is competition Enduro ready. All the others are more for fun riding. A scoot fits you properly if you can touch your toes while sitting on the bike with riding boots on. In the off-road world, the higher you feet are up the better off you will be.

Pit Dog. I just bought a built 97 YZ250. I have had older YZs and RMs but I haven't been keeping up with carburetors. On the top of my YZ's choke it says "open" and has an arrow pointing counterclockwise. What is that for? And also it's got a set of Barnett racing clutches in it. It doesn't want to idle once it is in gear because it is pulling too much. I've tried adjusting the cable in both places and it doesn't help. Is that normal or is there a fix? I appreciate your answers.

Pitdog: Some choke buttons also control the idle air. When you turn it open the idle should increase. Read some of my other answers on clutch drag. Component wear other than the plates usually causes the problem you describe.

Pit Dog. I've got a 2000 XR650L. After riding about 10 miles then turning it off for about 15 minutes, it will not start. There has no spark. Let it sit and cool for about 1 to 2 hours and we have spark again. This has happened twice and has never quit while riding. Anything you might have come across?

Pitdog: Because of the close proximity of the ignition components to the engine heat, the stator and the module get very hot. The heat causes connections inside to open up and therefore no spark. When they cool contraction causes the connection to make again and you get spark. It is very difficult to diagnosis the cause unless you could plug in a spare module at the time. Cooling the module with water may test it also. Good luck.

I have a 50 that doesn't have a clutch, so it is extremely easy to ride. Do they make larger bikes without clutches also?

Pitdog: Only for trail riding and they're pretty much just road scooters with off-road tires. Use of a clutch is very important while riding off-road terrain. For racing it's absolutely necessary. Once you get the hang of it, it will become second nature.

Hey dog, may I give some advice on the starting the 250F. I have raced one since February. The first race they had to push start me all because I didn't do the drill. This is what works for me. Cold startup -- I get the piston just past the compression stroke and use the choke -- got to kick it like you mean it. Hot start or after stalling -- use the hot button and get it past the compression stroke and kick it hard. If it didn't start after 2 or three kicks, pull the compression lever in and kick 8-10 times to clear the cylinder and then go through the drill again. It takes patience and a hard kick. It cannot be started like a two stroke and it will foul a plug if you dump to much gas in the cylinder. Once you learn how to do it, it's easy. Got to have patience and don't get in a hurry.

Pitdog: And there lies my problem with the Yamaha - who's not in a hurry when you're racing? The drill you describe is strangely familiar to the one I had to use back in the early '90s on my DR350. Starting or restarting them takes the same drill and a big boot. Thanks for the timely advice for the kick start crowd. I'll find the ponies I need on my DRZ250 (with the button), and laugh all the way down the start straight.

Hey Pitdog: I love your sense of humor! I'm 34 and been out of riding for a while. Had an 96 RM250 that had been rebuilt. Loved it, but owning my own business I didn't have the time to be constantly rebuilding it. Just bought a 01 YZ426 and it rides a little stiff for me. I'm 5' 7" 155. I prefer to be closer to the ground (not as far to fall), and was going to lower to where I'm flat footing. Reading your posts it seems like that might not be the way to go. I've adjusted the rear springs and lowered the forks a bit but it's a little soft. I ride fairly hard and mostly at Croom. What to do before I spend the bucks on it. Any ideas? Thanks Kevin

Pitdog: I don't believe there's any way to lower a 426 so you will be flat footed short of smaller diameter wheels. Competition off-road scoots are designed to be high because of their long suspension travel. If you change that it will no longer be the scoot that you bought. Riding at Crooms requires a good travel set up to handle the endless sections of whoops. You really need to set your boingers for those sections and forget about how your feet touch. If you wanted to flat foot you could with a TTR but don't head out in the whoops with any speed. Keep your race bike a race bike.

Hey Pit Dog. I have a 1990 RMX250. The throttle gets stuck wide open and the rev's stay up even when I roll the throttle back off. The throttle cable doesn't appear to be binding, the throttle snaps back. A fellow dirtbike rider said that it sounds like the "slide" in the carb is stuck. I'm new at this, so what is the best way to fix it? Thanks, Art

Pitdog: Short of replacing the entire carb, not much. On a 12 year on 2 stroke you're going to find a lot of stuff that is just plain worn out. Trying to find a used carb to fit it will be your best bet. I feel your RMX will be a great unit to get you started in off-road riding. It will become a money pit in short order as the hours roll up, however. Don't invest to much in it without knowing the entire story.

I have a 2001 XR400 and would like a little more power without more noise. I plan to remove the intake snorkel but leave the stock exhaust intact. Will there be any gains from opening up the airbox without opening up the exhaust. I am aware that re-jetting may be in order. Also, would I be nuts to take this bike to the MX track? Thanks

Pitdog: The stock exhaust is nice and quiet but fairly restrictive. Intake boot removal complements exhaust mods but does very little for performance without cylinder mods. Removing the snorkel without changing the exhaust might cause it to bog or be difficult to jet, I'm not sure. I'd look at an adjustable aftermarket silencer that you could tune along with other minor changes to keep a balance. The only rider I ever knew that could go like stink at the M/X track on an XR is my buddy Harker. He has a great shot of a pancake on his street legal XR650 over a 40' double. He also had to have his shoulder blade reconstructed from years of slightly missing his landings. So this is my advice for you. What goes up must come down and the heavier they are, the harder they fall. When you miss a landing on a XR compared to say a 125, lots of other stuff happens because of the weight and soft boingers. I'll bet you could buy a nice used M/X scoot for the cost of one round trip to the casting party. Think hard.

Yo Dawg. I have a 98 XR400 which is an outstanding bike. The problem is, my white gas tank has yellowed where the graphics were. I'm like you and go for performance, but in the off-season I like to take care of the small stuff. I've tried draining and drying it out for weeks but to no avail. Is there anything that will take out the stains other than a new tank? Mike,  Panama City.

Pitdog: Any model scoot that has graphics to the tank will do that plus, the graphics don't last long from the fuel vapors coming through the plastic. It's like darn if you do or darn if you don't. Some aftermarket graphics come with slits which supposedly let the fuel vapors out -- doesn't work. My anal friends show up with a new XR or new graphics almost every season. ( MY 96KX still has the originals, slightly scuffed). If you're 'spit and polish' go with new graphics. All I care about is if you can ride.

Hey Pitdog. Got any tips on jetting to fix the 250f starting problems? I understand that Yamaha has made changes to the '02, I think a carb cap and an ignition part. I do follow the book on starting but I still have trouble on hot starts and after a fall. Please help my leg is about to fall off. Thanks   Tony

Pitdog: Starting a 4 stroke after a fall is everybody's problem. The YZ250F just seems to be a little more difficult than most. I really think Yamaha missed the boat by not at least designing the cases to accept a starter to go on the WR version. Suzuki did on their 250 4 stroke, is just needs a little more motor. For you, it's really important to use the air switch when restarting and not to open the throttle. Push the scoot into a position where you can really get a good boot on it. Just think how much stronger your right leg is gonna get!

Gidday Pit Dog. I am currently rebuilding a 1991 KTM 600 LC4. I am having a little trouble setting the decompression mechanism. Is there a technique to setting it up properly? Cheers. Pete, New Zealand

Pitdog: Like other cables to the handlebars, you should have some end-play at the control point at all times. This is so that when turning the bars left and right no system action occurs. Be sure to check the cable for free movement and lube it. For linkages off the kick lever, you still need end-play in the normal run position.

G'day Pit Dog. How much torque should I use on the head bolts of my 83 CR250? A rough guess is fine. Cheers mate

Pitdog: I don't know exactly and a rough guess is not fine because of engineering details. Head bolt size and hardness, the amount of material in the head being compressed, the style of gasket, and variables of these limits are some conditions that determine a torque spec. I think a phone call or E-mail to a rebuild service would be your best bet.

Pitdog. I'm looking at a 1999 YZ400F, the bike is in good condition. My question is, if you know any common problems with that make and year? Also the back tire has bottomed out and hit the fender. It appears that the tire has also dented the tail pipe. Does that mean the swing arm is shot or does it need re-bushing or something? It seemed like the whole swing arm shifted over when he landed and caused that problem. Is that possible?

Pitdog: All that stuff sounds normal for a race bike. If you crash and the silencer gets pushed over against the tire, it's gonna leave a mark. Unless the silencer gets severely dented, you just bend it back when you can. It's OK to be concerned about stuff you can see but I'd be more worried about stuff I couldn't see. Have it checked over by a pro for some piece of mind.

Hey Dog. I'm a big Honda XR fan. I own 2 of them, a 250 and an 80. I am considering purchasing a XR400. My worry is that I have had such bad luck out of the timing chains in these bikes, especially the XR250. Is the XR400 setup a little different, stronger? Why am I having such bad luck out of the timing chains stretching, slipping, bending valves, breaking valves, busting pistons, etc? I have replaced everything new in my 250 with genuine Honda parts and only got about 20 hours of riding before I had another major engine failure, valves again, bent, broke, you name it. It's a 91 model and I am a very aggressive rider. What's you're thoughts about XR timing chains and should I upgrade to a 400 or go with a totally different bike?

Pitdog: I believe your problem lies in the fact that the motor is a 91 and just plain beat. In addition, if you didn't completely disassemble the motor to clean out the bits and pieces, the junk just destroyed your work. Newer units have rev limiters built into the ignition box for safe RPM limits. Valve float on the older ones was the limiter. The 400 is stronger but also NEW!

I purchased an 01 Yamaha WR426 thinking that I would do mostly off road (Enduro) riding. However, I find that I am on the MX track much more than anything else. What modifications can I make to the WR to make it more competitive on the MX track? I have already removed the air box cover and the exhaust insert. Removed the WR plastic and replaced with YZ plastic, removed the lights, speedo, and associated parts. The YZ426 just seem to blow past me on the short straights and accelerate out of the corners much stronger than the WR. What can I do to turn this thing into a YZ?

Pitdog: What's left is the gearing and the cam timing. The tranny ratios would be a bit of a challenge but you could find a compromise with chain sprockets. I recently found out that moving the exhaust cam one tooth is quite a bit more than what the motor really needs. This quick fix will not be nearly as good as having a pro tuner set up the cam numbers. These changes will make it a rocket. Anything less will be going the other way.

I'm riding a 2001 RM125 at 3500 feet in Calagary, Alberta. I changed the main from a 460 to a 430 in order to clear up rough running on the high end. Now I've got somewhat of a bog at the bottom end. Would you have a tech tip on what I should have?

Pitdog: Usually a bog means it's too lean. A 125 could bog from being extremely rich, however. You must read the plug before and after jetting changes to get an idea of how you're changing the combustion temperature. Get some pro help the first time around so you don't hurt the motor.

Hello Pit Dog. I am a beginner and interested in doing trail riding only. I am very interested in buying a new XR200. I sat on one and it feels very comfortable. I am concerned about me fitting this bike. I am 190lbs and 6ft tall. I also looked at the XR250 but for the extra money I really don't care about the extra's. I don't plan on advancing beyond basic trail riding. What do you think about the XR200 for someone my height and weight?

Pitdog: The XR200 is possibly the worlds best trail bike. You're just a little large for it. I know the price is a lot lower than the 250 but you defiantly get a lot less bike. Maybe you could find a slightly used something that would fit you better for the same money. Think long term.

Pitdog. My 2000 YZF426 is giving me some trouble. The clutch is grabby, it doesn't slip, but it makes the bike shutter if I do a slow start. I think it's because it's not getting enough oil. I've heard from other Internet dirtbike forums (DRN), that it's a common problem on random 2000 models but nonexistent on the 2001. I've been told to drill more holes in the inner boss but I fear that will weaken it. Also people said get a Hinson setup. Well, that's a whole lotta money that I don't have right now. And besides, the basket and the boss are in perfect condition to begin with, no ridges what so ever. Oh, and the steel plates appear to be glazed over because of this. What can I do to eliminate this problem?

Pitdog: If the steels got so hot that they're glazed, you must replace the them along with the fibers and the springs. Like you say, the basket and inner hub should be OK. Drilling small holes in the inner hub does make more oil get to the plates (pro tuner trick). Small holes should not weaken the hub. I'd be more concerned about the oil in motor as a cause. Since the clutch is similar in design as a 2 stroke, the 4 stroke clutch takes much more abuse from the hot engine oil that the 2 stroke doesn't make. I'd focus on using the best 4 stroke motorcycle oil available and change it often to reduce clutch overheating.

My son has a 2001 CR80. He's been riding since he was 4 and started on a 50. When he got too aggressive for the suspension, I had to take him off, and we moved to the 60. He had no trouble and became too aggressive again! My question is on his 80. He's skying doubles and huge gaps. What suspension tips or recommendations could you give. He now has decided to pursue racing full on. He is extremely fast and aggressive. Where and how do I tune his suspension to fit him.

Pitdog: Sounds like he's advanced faster than you can keep scoots under him. That's cool. If he's riding the wheels off a new CR80 then he might be too heavy for it but not tall enough for a 125. In any case, you need to get some hands on help from an instructor, seasoned rider, or pro tuner to see what he needs for suspension tuning and riding style. If you change the boingers for crusher landings, you'll loose cornering. I understand that he is brave but timing and a smooth riding style will help him be a consistent winner over no-fear. I recommend hands on help.

Hey Mr. Dog, just looking for your opinion. I am 41 years old and love to trail/woods ride (novice), and was planning to enter into some of the Harescrambles this season. I am 6'-1" and weight 215. Is the YZ/WR250F a bike that would handle my size? Which is a better choice for Harescrambles YZ or WR? Would a Honda XR400 be a better choice? What other bikes would be good choice.

Pitdog: At 215lb, you will most likely need to replace springs on any of the scoots you mentioned. I think the Yamaha 426 or the Honda 400 would a better choice because of their displacement. Average riders will find the Yamahas a little too stiff for off-road racing and the Honda a little soft. The larger displacement scoots also seem to be easier to restart than the 250. You might want to look at the Suzuki DRZ or the KTM 4 strokes with electric start. The button becomes a huge issue after a spill, when you are tired, over the kick start. Also, the WR models would be competition Enduro ready while the YZ is not. That should help make your head spin.

What's up? I'm an 18 year old guy, and I race 125c, and 16-24. I ride a 2001 YZ125 with mods, and my concern is next year when I go to buy a new bike. So far I've heard nothing good about the '02 YZ125's. I just don't think the five speed tranny is working for it. 2003 will be the year for my new bike, and I'm somewhat leaning towards the KTM. They're awesome machines but so expensive to maintain and I'm a teenage racer on a budget. I guess my question to you is, which bike in your opinion is the better of the two? I understand with a KTM you get all the mods you need but a YZ has been my best friend for years. Any help would be appreciated. Zach

Pitdog: Normal replacement stuff on the KTM like the piston are quite a bit more money but they also last longer. Location of your dealer must be a consideration too. So far I believe the five speed tranny on the YZ is just giving riders the feeling that less is not as good. Time will tell. Certainly KTM has come along way recently with their product on the M/X scene. Magazine editors still say the motor is not the bomb like the big four bikes but maybe that's good for a B rider on a short or slick track. My question to you would be, do you want to add a friend or change friends?

Hi Pitdog. I have a 2001 Blaster. I am putting a Pro Circuit pipe on and I'm not sure if I should put a spark arrester silencer on too. I ride at Croom in Brooksville. The S/A is only $30 more so price isn't the issue. I just don't know if there is a difference in power or sound between a regular silencer or the S/A. Can you help me decide? There is a 3 week back order on the S/A. Also is it mandatory to have the S/A at Croom. Thanks, Frank

Pitdog: The S/A regulation has not been a strict issue at Croom, so far. Yes, it will make some difference in the performance with the pipe. You might want look into an add-on Sparky for the regular silencer. That way you could but it in when needed.

Yo Dog. If was to buy a brand new YZ or CR 250, which one would you think to have better reliability, more power, and where? How long would it be before I would need to get a rebuild? I wouldn't really like having a bike that needs all the service time so should I be looking at a WR or something? Thanks

Pitdog: Compared to say fruit, the CR and the YZ are apples. The WR is an orange. 2 strokes are designed for cutting edge performance. This falls off quickly on any 2 stroke in like 20 hours. The WR could go 10 times that before noticeable change. Manufacturers are so focused on competitive 2 stroke performance that normal riders could not find an advantage between them. Even the magazine testers say it's like apples of a different color. The only reason to choose a YZ over a CR would be that the CR has more of a M/X design intent. The YZ crosses over into off-road much better. The new WRs are making a statement on the stock race bike scene. I've stayed away from 4 strokes for ten years until just yesterday when I purchased a DRZ250 from Cycle Riders Suzuki. It received the best play bike test report in a recent magazine and it has the button. Piston and crank inertia have been the down side of racing a 4 stroke for me, along with the hard to restart scenario. The DRZ250 has neither but will take some tuning to make it a race bike. I'm not selling my 2 stroke just yet Master A racers so don't get the giggles. For you it's like picking fruit.

Hey Pit Dawg. I just bought a used 99' RM125. It runs great but I need to adjust the idle speed on it. How do I do that?

Pitdog: I'm not sure on the '99, but I believe you will find in the OWNERS MANUAL that it doesn't have an idle stop screw. It's an RM.

Pit Dog. I used to Live in Bushnell, just outside of Ocala, so I know where you are. I now live in beautiful North Carolina. I just bought an 89 Yamaha Blaster. It runs out good but smokes some after first starts. The bike will NOT idle, and I have tried a lot of things, like plugs, carb cleaning. Looking over your past replies, I assume this is inherent to two strokes. I bought a Kasea for my son and it's a two stroke and it idles perfectly. Any suggestions. Thanks

Pitdog: Just like some of my past replies on 2 strokes, your Blaster cylinder performance applies. Did it idle when you bought it? If not that should have been an issue. Considering it's like 13 years old, major engine wear has probably occurred. Have a pro tuner check it out so you can figure if you need to cut your loses. North Carolina huh? Hatfield-McCoy, Tsali, ye ha!

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