Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - how to prepare, bike setup and maintenance.

Hey Pit Dogg. On one of my bikes, 1999 XR200, there is a rattling sound coming from the engine (not the valves). I've read a little about the 'DEATH RATTLE' before. Could you explain a little about the term? Thanks for your help.

Pitdog: The term 'death rattle' means to me that what ever is making the sound is going to kill the engine. It's very difficult to hurt a XR200. Normal adjustments of the valves and cam chain are mostly all that's needed to keep them going strong for a lot more than 3 years. Clunking sounds could come from the piston, rod, and crank bearings. Rattles could come from the clutch and tranny. Any of those take serious motor work. I'd double check your adjustments and then take it to a pro tuner if needed after that.

How are O-ring chains better than others?

Pitdog: Others being non O-ring? The O-ring in such chain holds the lube in the pivots. They also keep water out. This is why O-rings are considered a standard for off-road riding. The chances of having a mud or water crossing on a M/X track are not very often. A non O-ring chain, even of high quality, won't last very long in off-road conditions. Even though O-ring chains have a slightly higher weight and rolling resistance, off-road racers use them anyway instead of replacing the chain and sprockets every three months during the series. Also keep in mind you are on a M/X track only 20 minutes before you take a break and lube the chain. H/S racers may run 2 hours. Don't bring your M/X set up to the H/S.

I am looking at buying a 92 Yamaha WR250 from the original owner who is a friend of a friend. It supposedly has not been abused, is all stock, and very clean. I had an 89 Honda CR250 before and was curious how the WR250 would compare to it. Any comments or suggestions about the WR?

Pitdog: Yamaha went after the RMX and KDX market with the WR. They were a lot like the RMX, left over technology with a lighting coil and other mods. WRs were famous for being hard to jet and the fuel tank design made the forward position difficult. The 89 Honda was a very good year. The WR won't be close but you can carry more fuel for off-road riding. I'd have a 92 anything professionally checked out no matter what.

I have a 1999 CR125. It has a fresh top-end, clean power valves, an FMF Fatty rev pipe and Shorty 2 silencer. I added 1 tooth on the rear sprocket. It also has a CR250 air boot and Boyesen Rad valve and I run a Twin Air filter which is always clean. I'm using a 32:1 pre mix of Silkolen Comp with 92 octane unleaded gas. The bike seems crisp and it does not smoke a lot. I'm sorry about running on. My question to you Pit Dog is, why does my bike seem very underpowered and slow in comparison to my friends STOCK KTM 125SX? What else can I do to make it faster besides expensive engine work or is that my only option?         

Pitdog: KTM are notorious for their low end grunt but give it up when the Hondas are still pulling strong. On your 99, was the cylinder in like new condition when it was freshened? That is where most of the power is lost and yes it is expensive engine work. All those mods will do nothing for a loose piston fit. How's yours?

Dear Pit Dog. I have been having trouble with my '96 Yamaha Banshee. I first purchased it this spring and it would start in 3 kicks, but it took more and more as time went on. I let it sit awhile because I was to busy to ride, then when I finally had some free time I decided I would take it for a boot at the local sandpits but it would not start. I bought some new spark plugs but it still didn't start, so finally bump started and it started but ONE of the exhaust pipes sounded like it was hissing, I told my friend and he said it was just lean but I'm not so sure because I am also missing my top end, it just goes flat. I thought it might be running on one cylinder but I'm not sure. Pit Dog I'm sure that with all your knowledge you will have the right answer. THANKS!.   

Pitdog: 2 stroke 4 wheelers are no different from 2 stroke scoots. After 20 hours of riding you will need to inspect the piston. Sounds like you're a little late.

Pit Pooch. I just bought a new Yamaha TT250R straight off the floor of the dealership. The thing rides very well and handles exceptionally well. I opted to buy a 4 banger because of the lower amount of maintenance and durability, and don't get me wrong it's got plenty of get up and top end speed, but I'm still being blown off the dirt by my buddies who all ride YZ250's. We're all of about the same ability level of riders but I just cant reach the screaming power levels their bikes so easily display. I just wanted to know if you could tell me what there is out there, short of boring it out, that I can do to increase performance. And where I might find these parts. Thanx -MR. XYTMNT

Pitdog: That scoot was recently reviewed in an article about an off-road racer project, for a girl. She did well after motor and suspension mods. I know it will never hold a candle to a stock 2 stroke of the same displacement unless the motor is hot-rodded to the hilt. Minor improvements can be made with carb, airbox, and exhaust mods but don't expect much. And it will be a lot louder. Major power can be found in displacement or compression mods but that will stress everything else and reduce durability, (one of your issues). It takes an exceptionally good tuner to understand how much stress a stock motor can take when turning up the wick. The best part about your scoot is the button and its inherent durability. When the 2 stroke guys are replacing pistons and re-plating bores, you will be adjusting the valves and riding off while they wait for parts. I like the riding part but I also love my 2 stroke. We can't have both.

Pitdog. My son's PW50 is actually moving when in idle. I tried adjusting the throttle cable to no avail. Please lead me to the solution. Thanks

Pitdog: Well, is it idling slow enough? That would be a simple carb adjustment. Other than that, I'm not sure about a clutch adjustment like on the Hondas. Having an owners manual to refer to might help. I've never had a PW50 to tune on.

Hey. I'm kinda new to this and can't seem to find a place where I can buy new fenders for a 1986 Suzuki RM80. I bought the bike used for 250 bucks and I just paid $278.98 to get a new sleeve in the head, reeds, and a piston for my son. I was wondering if u new anywhere where I can find a newer fender kit for it? And I'm also wondering if you could tell me if I got ripped off? Thanks

Pitdog: Ripped off is in the eye of the beholder. Now you have $528.98 in a 86, what else needs attention beside the fenders that you can't find? A good parts person would be my recommendation. Call Greg at Cycle Riders Suzuki (407.695.4900), for the best info. Get out the wallet.

Hi Pitdog. I'm 13. I haven't measured my height but I know I'm 110 pounds. If I'm to tall for a YZ80 do think I could fit on a YZ125 in 1 or 2 years? How old do you think the average person would have to be to fit on one? You are da coolest!

Pitdog: The transition from the 80s to the 125s has always been a big jump for the 12 year old crowd. This is why Honda makes the big wheel and Kawasaki makes the 100. Most 125 riders need to be at least 5"4" to just touch their toes down on the scoot. Better riders, like a guy named Ricky, couldn't care less about putting his feet down. Consider the two transition bikes available or sleep with your feet hanging from the bed post (not really). Work on your riding not your styling (really).

I just purchased a Suzuki JR50 a few months ago for my son who's 6 years old. He wants it to go faster. I read in a brochure that it had two speeds, slow or regular speed, for the kid to get use to the bike and that it could be adjusted to ride a bit faster? Is this true and how do I get it done for this brat?

Pitdog: Most of the minis have carb and exhaust restrictors to hold back engine performance. The owners manual details how to remove them. Use control of the scoot to control him. Works for me.

I have a 97 RM125. It has an aftermarket Vortex clutch that hasn't had a good ride on it yet. It runs good when the rpm's are up. I have cleaned the carb, checked the piston, and taken the clutch apart. It doesn't want to start with ease and when I do get it started I can't get it to idle in gear. When I pull the clutch in and let off the gas the engine dies, feels like the brakes immediately come on, and won't roll very well. It will start in neutral with the right throttle treatment but not in gear. I have to fix it before the first Hare Scrambles! What should I do?

Pitdog: You checked the piston? How? Smaller displacement motors are sensitive to piston fit. The 125s lose a lot of low end and get hard to start after only 10 hours because of this. In addition, the cylinder plating on a 97 is probably so worn, a new piston won't make much difference. For the clutch, I'll bet the basket has major wear grooves causing the fiber plates not to release. These conditions are all normal wear for a 5 year old MX scoot. Plan to spend money to bring it up to speed or you'll be a back-marker in the series.

Have you ever heard of an RT-180 running in reverse? If it is started by the kickstart, the engine runs in reverse. If it is jump started it runs forward but poorly. Any ideas? It ran real good until this started happening.
Regards, Don 

Pitdog: Yep. Since 2 strokes fire every time the piston comes up so it will turn the crank in which ever direction it was going. When the timing is so far off that the motor backfires, it will run in the direction that it backfired. Go through the primary ignition and get it set back to specs. This will make a huge difference.

I'm 16, 5'6", and 135lbs. I ride a stock 1997 CR250. I have the compression all the way soft for my shock and forks but it still seems stiff. I haven't touched my rebound. Anyway, I want to start racing Hare Scrambles. I live in Spring Hill. It's about 10 minutes for Brooksville. Where is the closest place that holds a Hare Scramble? I also heard that I need some kind of membership? Will I have to bring one of my parents so sign something when I go to a scramble?

Pitdog: You're too light for the stock springs on a 250, especially on a H/S course. There is no way you will find dampening settings to compensate for those springs. You must have springs set for the bike, you, and your riding style. Without them you will have a buckboard. If you're gonna race you best bring your race set up to the line or you'll be traction for the leaders. We don't have a H/S on the schedule for this season in Brooksville. Go to the home page and open the listed schedule for more info. And yes, you will need to bring your parents to sign for you. You can join FTR at the event.

Dear Mister Pit Dog. I have a 1992 Yamaha RT-180. It ran good last fall for a couple of months (Aug/Sept), but it wouldn't start come November. I squirted some starting fluid in the cylinder and even that won't create as much as a cough from the engine. Long term I'm sure I need to rebuild the carburetor. Should this bike ordinarily be this much trouble? RT Troubled in Ohio

Pitdog: Small displacement scoots have very small pilot jets. These jets clog with goop that clings to the inside of the fuel tank at the drop of a hat. The fuel sitting in the carb might be OK for 3 months but starts to turn into goop itself in short order. This happens to cars, scoots, airplanes, lawnmowers, everything. A radiator shop can clean the fuel tank for you, then you need to go through the carb and remove every speck of contamination. The petcock needs detailing too. For scoots that sit for several months it's best to remove the fuel tank to completely drain along with the fuel in the carb bowl. This limits wrench time to ride time.

Hello Dog. I am purchasing dirtbikes for my son and myself in about a month or so. He feels comfortable on the XR70 and I am confused on whether to get an XR200 or a TTR225. I have repeatedly gone to the Honda/Yamaha dealer, sitting on them, and fighting with myself over which one would better suit me. I have read many reviews on both bikes, weighed the differences of the two, and don't favor one over the other yet after months of thinking. This
will be my first bike as well as my son. I weigh about 175lb and stand 5'7". Any advice, opinion, etc., would be greatly appreciated! Please help! Oh yeah, both bikes will be brand new. Thanks!

Pitdog: I had to change type from caps and correct spacing :( . Anyway, since either scoot is well suited for your size and plan, you are kicking yourself on a mute point. One time when I couldn't decide on which street bike to buy, I asked my wife (who couldn't care less), which one she liked. She picked the one she thought looked the best. That was in '84. I still have that bike and it turned into a collector piece. Thanks baby! The point is, you can't predict the future of something you have never done or bought unless you just buy it. You've done the shopping and research and are "fighting" with yourself? Not good. Flip a coin, ask your wife, your son, or the Ouija Board. I'd like the one with a button.

P-Dog: I have a 2001 XR400R and just put on a new FMF pipe. I need to re-jet. I found the jets I need on FMF's website, but I was wondering if there are any websites available that I can get some how-to information on installing
the jets? Also, are there any "Gotcha's" I should watch out for? Great website, by the way!

Pitdog: I'm a tuner not a web guy and he thanks you. The "gotchas" are, nobody can jet a motor without testing. There is no set pattern for what jets will work for you on the scoot. The owners manual usually has tips on jetting so start there. Take a scientific approach and write everything down while you test ride in a section you already know. If you have never had the carb
off, you would be a lot better off getting help the first time around.

Hi. I have a 1986 YZ80. It was just bored 40 over and everything done to the bottom end like main bearings, crankshaft, clutches, transmission, everything. The motor's like brand new so how much do you think I should sell it for?

Pitdog: I usually don't answer questions like this but I have a point to make here. If all was in working order on a scoot that old, $500 dollars would be an attractive price with $1000 a price very few would pay. So here's my point. Why would someone pay $1000 for an 86 when the same money would get an average 95? And, how much do you now have in major repairs just to bring the motor up to speed? I can only see spending that kind of money on a scoot if it was vintage that runs in a specific class or on a project that one would get personal satisfaction from. This is why there are junk yards. I don't think you will now get the money out of it that you have spent. You might as well just ride it.

Hey Dog. The sprockets on my KX125 are getting kinda worn and I'm really short on cash. I was wondering, can you turn the sprockets around backwards to get a little more sprocket life? Thanks a lot

Pitdog: I've done that but I don't think it's worth the time for more than one ride. The worn chain is going to snap the tops off of the teeth in short order no matter what. You can get a cheap chain and sprockets for around $50 but don't ride 'em in any water. I buy the best chain and sprockets money can buy so I can get a full season out of them without much more than glancing at their condition. Got a job?

Hey Pit Dog. Thank you for the advice. If you're coming to ride in NB Ca, come Oct 6th for the 19th Annual Turkey Run, held at Caladonia, MT, Albert County, New Brunswick. This is NOT a race, just some old guys leading the pack (about 100 bikes) through the rockiest, slipperiest, rattiest, washouts you will find anywhere. Oh yeah, put about 20 lbs in your tires, or the 4 wheelers will run you over when your trying to fix your flat tire. Ride safe;
Eric from Albert County, New Brunswick, CA

Pitdog: No worries. But can we stay in your room? That area in New Brunswick sounds similar to Hatfield-McCoy we just got back from. Yes, carry a tube.

Pit Dog. Last weekend my YZ400F began running a little poor on a very hot, humid day and wouldn't idle at all. It is now nearly impossible to start (used to start first kick), and will not idle when I do get it started. We went through the carb thoroughly and found some grime/dirt. It's now spotless throughout with stock jetting and it still won't start. I put in a new spark plug (there is spark there). When I was able to get it started and force it out onto the track, it pulled strong in the deep sand but quit as soon as I came to a stop. Do you think its carburetion? What else should I look into? Thanks for any advice.

Pitdog: I can think of two things. One, how in the world did grime/dirt get in the fuel? Off-road scoots have a strainer on the petcock for large contamination. A lot of savvy riders add a fuel filter in the line for extra protection by the way. If stuff got past your stainer then there's a lot more in the tank to follow which leads me to my second point. The pilot jet in the carb has a very small fuel opening. If you didn't take the jet out and look through the hole for trash, you're done. Running strong on full throttle conditions then stalling with throttle shuts tells me the main jet is working but the pilot isn't. This also makes it very hard to start. I'll bet detailing the fuel tank and going through the carb again will get you out of or back into the woods (which ever way you look at it), in no time.

I just purchased a new 2001 YZ125. I broke it in EXACTLY like the factory recommended. I'm running Yamalube 30:1. It seems to foul plugs every 5 minutes. Please help! Thanks Jimmy

Pitdog: Did you read the rest of the manual? If you did you would have seen the section on jetting and how to read a plug. Scoots from the factory tend to be a little rich to be fair. Yamahas have a 30 day warranty so they look to protect themselves. If you are a beginner or easy rider a race bike with race jetting won't work for you. You must set it up specially for your needs.
I suggest getting some hands on help from a seasoned rider or pro tuner because you could very easily hurt the motor by jetting wrong. That's not warranty and it costs a bunch. You own a very sensitive stock race bike, give it the proper care.

Dear Pit Dog. I am troubled by a recent rumor. One of my favorite riding areas, the Ocala National Forest, is rumored to be closing it's doors to motorcycles. Please tell me its not so! Any and all info would be appreciated. Sincerely, Worry Wart

Pitdog: Huge sections of the forest have always been closed to OHVs. Clinton's road-less initiative has moved the managers into reviewing more sections to be closed. BSTR has lost their traditional Enduro date in the Big Scrub section because of unworkable restrictions to our Enduro format. It looks to be getting worse for Ocala and other areas as well. The Vice President of FTR coordinates the land use agenda for FTR. Part of your membership in FTR goes directly to the land use agenda. Clubs within FTR, like CFTR, also do a lot of work to support OHV land management areas. As an individual, you can only do so much to express your desires to have riding areas available. As a club member for your area, you will have the most impact to the agenda of land use management. Join one now.

For a 2001 YZ426, what is the number of turns from closed should the air fuel mixture screw be? I know it needs to run and be adjusted, but I'm looking for a starting point. I'm running rich and fouling plugs daily.

Pitdog: The mixture screw on the outside of the carb on a 4 stroke is low speed fuel. It makes a very small change in overall jetting because it only is active when the throttle is closed. Most manufactures design a fuel or air screw adjustment to have a maximum change in less than 3 turns. Starting at 1.5 turns, it will obviously be somewhat in the middle but I don't think that its adjustment is causing plugs to foul. Look into other jetting adjustments, valve timing and adjustment, or spark timing for the cure.

Hey Pitdog. I am getting brown smoke coming from the exhaust of my 2000 YZ125. Do I need to adjust my needle clip? It is currently on 3 running 24:1 ratio gas to oil? Thanks

Pitdog: The color or amount of smoke means nothing to what your jetting needs to be. Most of the time it is just unburned oil that was hanging around in the exhaust pipe. Read the manual, read the plug, and follow jetting hints that you can test and feel when your scoot makes the best power. Forget about what comes out the silencer.

I'm having a problem setting my suspension to the way I want it. I ride a 99 RM250. It has had the forks and shock work by Pro Action. I'm about 5'9" and weigh around 135 lbs. I want a softer set up for riding in rougher terrain so it will absorb most of the impact, but I also need a set up that doesn't bottom out off of high impact landings (example: 40-50 foot doubles and table tops). Thanks Pit Dawg.

Pitdog: Uh, so would every other MX/off-road rider. We have found the Suzukis to be setup from the factory with stronger MX settings, for intermediate riders than say the KX or the YZ. Depending on the request for setup, Pro Action may have made it even more MX suitable. Riding in Florida sand and roots means a good ride height and fast suspension action are desirable. Proper spring selection is very important for your weight and riding ability along with compression valve stacking. Factory riders have very trick dampening components for the Outdoor National Series so they will have the best compromise in rough sections and off big jumps. Selected tuning to your stock stuff won't cut it. I would ask Pro Action to install springs specifically for you and set the valving so you can turn most of the dampening off when you ride off-road. This is not a solution just a compromise.

I recently purchased 2002 XR100R. The throttle seems to stick when bars are turned to the right. Could the cable be routed wrong from the factory? Eric, New Brunswick Canada. PS. In NB we can still ride everywhere.

Pitdog: Most likely the cable adjustment is too tight for the swing left to right. The adjuster is on the throttle housing where the cable enters. Adjust it so the grip always has a little play no matter what the bar position. We'll be up next weekend to ride your areas. Here in Central Florida, we used to be able to ride almost anywhere too. Now we can only ride at the MX track, and we have to pay. How many riders can stay in your room? Do you have a shed?

Hey, Dog breath! I gots a "Q" for you. I'm living and riding in New Zealand but will be moving over the USA in a few months time. I'm thinking about bringing my '99 CR250 over for a few months riding and then selling it. The problem is that here in New Zealand we don't have titles or registration for dirt bikes. Do you think that I would be able to sell the CR in the USA without a title? If not, do you know if I would be able to get a title for it? I would sort of like to do this as, if I sold this bike for US $2500, I'd still be getting more for it than if I sold it in New Zealand.

Pitdog: $2500 would be a decent price for a 99 CR250 but how much does it cost to ship it? And what about tariffs? MX scoots don't come with titles worldwide they have Certificates of Origin so that doesn't matter. And by the way, the only thing that makes my breath bad is the beer. I eat grommet food.

Gidday Pitdog. I ride a '99 CR250. I mostly ride Enduro's and trail ride but have been known to practice on a Motocross and Supercross track from time to time. My question is about piston replacement frequency. The Honda owners manual suggests that the piston be replace every 7.5 hours. This seems excessive to me and I have never replaced pistons after such a short period of use -- am I making a mistake? How often should I be replacing the piston? Is there any point in just replacing the rings? Should I always replace the little end bearing when I replace the piston? Oh yeah, the manual also suggests replacing the reeds every 7.5 hours -- this is a joke right? Thanks you dirty dog, from a dirty rider in New Zealand.

Pitdog: MX scoots do have a very short maintenance period. What the manufactures are looking for is optimum performance. Pro riders get a complete engine check over every two races for comparison. Enduro riders, like me, aren't concerned about losing 2 inches to my competition on a straight. We want smooth performance and reliability. I can feel the power getting soft on my scoots which first comes from ring wear then piston. We consider piston replacement when the fit to cylinder is larger than .003 to .004, for a 250, and replace the ring anytime we check the piston fit. A small end bearing and pin should always be replaced with the piston. An A Enduro rider might want to check the cylinder in 10 to 20 hours. The Honda reeds are very good but wear quickly. You might want to consider an aftermarket set that would last for years.

My father always has large quantities of 2 cycle high quality oil around the garage intended for outboard engines. It says on the label suitable for all water cooled 2 cycle engines. Can I use this stuff for my dirt bike? He says it's all the same stuff. What do you think?

Pitdog: Outboard motors are usually run at a consistent RPM and don't have power valves and tricky exhaust systems. Off-road motorcycle oils are specifically designed to be most effective for these system designs. I would think outboard oils would be OK for your off-road scoot but not the best.

Hi Dog. In your opinion, what is the best dirt bike available at this time that can be licensed for the street and still be usable for trail riding and occasional Enduros and H/S.  I am 48 years old, 6'1" tall and 200 lbs. Thanks

Pitdog: KTM has pretty much won the world opinion on off-road performance of a street legal dirt bike. The Suzuki DR and the Honda XR series also come very close, for less money, but they have more of a non competitive design approach. The new DR250 has an electric starter and fully adjustable suspension for a great price. It weights 253lb, however, which is on the porky side. The KTM 520 weighs less than the DR250, has an electric start, and is competition ready right out of the box but they cost a lot more and dealers are not in every town. I'd get the button not matter what.

Hey Dog. I have two boys ages 13 and 9. I am buying them their first motorcycles. They have no experience except with mini-bikes. I wanted to start them out with a Yamaha TTR125L and TTR90 but the 90 is too small for the 9 year old, and the 125 is too big for him. What can I buy for the 9 year old skinny kid that fits him but won't kill him first time out? Thanks Dog.

Pitdog: Did you know that we have less injuries in our sport than say tennis? And, mini-bikes that are not motorcycles hurt more kids because they are very limited in their performance AND kids are allowed to ride without proper equipment! But enough of my stumping. 9 is possibly the most difficult age for kids to fit an off-road scoot. I like the XR100 for the 8 to 12 year old crowd in the beginner trail class. Both the Honda and the Yamaha are the best products available so you won't go wrong with either. Starting them out on trail 4 strokes is a great way for them to come up to speed with their riding abilities. Most kids learn quickly and want a race bike in short order so keep your 4 strokes in good shape for the best trade.

At the beginning of the season I had some engine work done. They replaced the piston, gaskets and some bearings. They had to split the case to do the work. There was a millimeter or so play in something behind the clutch cover that was letting the piston wiggle around. I'm no expert so forgive my ignorance. My bike is a 1998 YZ125. My question is; before they did the work the kick start would snap back after a kick to its original position which I would assume would be normal, however now it sometimes will just stay at the bottom and not spring back. I thought it was just a matter of it being tight after the work but it's been awhile so what do you think? 

Pitdog: They probably split the cases to replace the crank bearings. The 'play in something' is possibly the fit of the rod to the crank which is normal wear and something to keep an eye on anytime you check the top end. I suspect the kick drive mechanism is binding inside the clutch cover because of it's installation or fit. Luckily it doesn't take much to pull that cover and have it corrected. Do it now before something gets damaged from the binding.

Hey Pitdog. I'm new to FTR and want to know how much is it to join for an RM80? I don't have a membership or anything. Could you tell me? Thanks

Pitdog: You can call or E-mail the FTR business manager through the numbers listed on this Web site for information on membership. Let your parents know your plans because they have to be there with you to race.

I love to climb steep hills. I have a TTR125l and when I get as far as I can go it starts to spin. I have a good tire and when I try to use the clutch it doesn't really help. It just tries to flip and cuts off. Is there anything I can do to get me all the way up. Thanx

Pitdog: The TTR125 isn't much of a hill climber. The power to weight ratio is stopping you before the top. Hill-climbing is all about momentum, riders skill, horsepower, and tire hook up. Work on taking your momentum up the climb with you. This means bottom of the climb speed. Try not to sit down because you will be caught in a position where you can't move around to keep the wheel down or get rear traction. You could try a smaller front sprocket for more oomph from the motor.

My 11 year old daughter rides a 94 CR80. She rides it well and we use a mix at 32-1. The plug is checked often and always is in good condition, bottom end oil changed regularly. It seems to DROOL a little out of the front and rear of the pipe. What is the cause?

Pitdog: As I've said in other answers to this symptom, some drooling is normal on a 2 stroke. It is the unburned oil from the combustion that has to be mixed with the gas. You can stop the drooling to the front and other connection sections by assembling with silicone on the joints. You could reduce the rear drooling by switching to 40:1 and re-jetting, not using a full synthetic mix oil, waiting for her to advance in her riding style so she keeps the pipe dried out, or wiping the drool off like most other riders who go too slow for consistent pipe temperature. What's the easiest?

Pit Dog. I have some serious pitting around the top edge of my cylinder on my KX125. I assume it's from a leaky head gasket. Have you ever seen this in the past and if so do you know any future remedies? ( The bolt torque was correct at the last top end rebuild) Thanks! B200 FTR!

Pitdog: Kawasaki has never been famous for their cylinder plating. If the pitting is in the ring sweep area you must have the cylinder re-plated now. I would also have the head surfaced and the cylinder deck checked for flatness. Many tuners use Hightack or other gasket prep products to reduce seepage of coolant into the combustion chamber.

I have a 99' KX125 and I would like to know if you know the air to fuel mix ratio for different altitudes?

Pitdog: The all mighty Poobaa of jetting and mix ratios says, huh? The best air/fuel ratio for the most power is 14.7:1 for all internal combustion engines. 2 strokes have an air screw that makes a very small change to the low speed jetting. To know what jetting you will need for higher altitudes, you need to know what jetting you have now and how high you will be going? Just think about this. The higher you go, the less o2 in the air there will be. Therefore, you might need to reduce the fuel to match the lower o2 available. When considering fuel/oil mix ratios, if you are at 32:1 and go to 40:1, your air/fuel ratio will change slightly richer at the same altitude. Remember, the first number for fuel/oil ratios is the fuel. So if you go to 24:1 it is less fuel but a lot of oil, maybe too much. I would think elevations over 3000 feet would require some re-jetting to a 125 regardless of fuel/oil mix ratios. If you have been watching your plug color all along and know what jetting does to it, then you will be able to deal with the changes. If not you will be lost and sitting on the side while the others ride. Test now.

Mr. Pit Dog. I am considering buying a spare bike, a 1990 Yamaha RT180. It runs well, and needs some TLC to be a nice extra machine for friends. Does anyone make performance upgrades for this machine (pipe, bore kit, etc.) that would give it some more oomph? Most of the potential riders are 6'3" or 6'4", 200 to 230 lb. Can we firm up the suspension a bit without much investment?

Pitdog: The RT180 is a great bike for the beginner crowd of around 150lb (read ladies). For riders you mention it would be a mini bike that would hold them back from the pack on a ride. You could hotrod the motor and boingers for more performance but the money you spent would buy a much better scoot that would be ready to go. And, the frame couldn't handle the stress from the beefed up boingers with 230lb aboard. If you went to a friends to ride, wouldn't you like to be on something with at least average capabilities?

What's your best tip for riding through deep muddy ruts? Every time I hit one the front tire washes out and the bike falls. 

Pitdog: I've always recommended to hold steady throttle and look for a place to land on the other side of the mud. That way at least you made it across and can pick it up to go on. Works for me! Really though, riding in muddy ruts is a lot like riding it really loose sand in that you let the scoot move around under you while you center yourself slightly up over the seat. It's really helpful to keep the front wheel pointed in the direction you want go and to steer with the drive of the rear wheel and your balance over the bike. That way when the front moves around it doesn't control what direction the rest of the bike will go. All this takes a bit of practice and confidence. Have you ever wondered how really fast riders can steer with their wheel in the air all the time? There you go. A good wet Enduro will bring you up to speed in no time.

Dear Pit Dog. I am 5'11" and 70kgs (not sure how many lbs) and wondering which bike I should head for. I am looking to do mainly trail/Enduro riding, having a good bit of fun, and riding as hobby. I have been looking at KTM EXC200 & KTM EXC250 models, but I am not sure to go for a 2 stroke or 4 stroke. I would prefer the bike to be road registrable, just to get to the dirt, so it has to be 250cc or less. I would rather a bike that is much more suited to dirt than road.

Pitdog: Both of the models you mention are excellent for competition Enduros. They are hard to make street legal in some areas, however. KTM has some of the best dual sport models that are street legal and excellent off-road. Check out all their models. I would look for a smaller displacement 4 stroke with electric start.

Hi Pit Dog. I'm moving to Florida this summer after my military stint in Europe is finished. I'm only accustomed to the riding in West Virginia, Maryland and Hawaii where the terrain goes from rocky, leaf covered to slick as snot clay covered with pine needles. The tires on my 96 KDX 200 need to be replaced as soon as I get back to the states any way so I'm interested in what a good choice would be for the general area. I intend on participating in a few club HS and doing some local trail riding after I hone my skills a little bit and get used to the heat/humidity.

Pitdog: Most of us run a soft terrain tire for the Southeast because a soft will work in hard sections but a hard won't work in soft sections. I run the Michelin S12 for racing. When we went to West Virginia, it was junk in three days of mountain riding. Plan on replacing them at around 50 hours.

Hi. I'm 15, 5'3", and 130 pounds. I have a 98 KE 100 for trail riding. My dad bought me an 01 TTR125L. I was just wanting to know if there will be a big difference in how they ride and if I could keep up with my younger brother on his KX 80. I'm a little more experienced on the trails than him.

Pitdog: Maybe. If he's a MXer then he will soon be on the gas in the trees. The TTR will be a lot better than the KE but I could go faster on the KX than either of the trails bikes. After all, it's a race bike. Your dad might have a good reason for getting you another trail bike for sure. Focus on your own riding and what you need to do to ride smoother. Don't worry about other riders until you race. Then get a race bike.

Hey Pit Dogg. I currently own a YZ 250F which I have had since they have came out. I'm 5'4 and about 90 pounds. According to the AMA, a 13 year old should be, but don't hold me to it, be riding a MX bike of 80cc. I will keep my YZF but also have a 2000 KTM 125, which my opinion, has great power. So the question is about the 2002 Model KTM's and if they will get the ball rollin' and upgrade their minicross 65 to a fire breathing 80 for the new year? Thankz, Mike

Pitdog: KTM has had a lot of success with their line of 50 and 65cc mini scoots. Only Kawasaki has been there with the 65cc. Is KTM holding their cards by not competing against the big four with an 80? Time will tell.

Hey Pitdog. I have a 01 RM125 and the frame is rusting where my boots rub up against it. I know there are frame guards out there but they are expensive. Is there a way I can keep the frame from rusting?

Pitdog: All dirt bike frames do that. My scoot is so old the entire area is plain steel. None of it is rusted, however, because I spray the entire bike (except the rotors and plastic), with WD40 to displace water in pivots, protect the steel and aluminum, and give it a nice look. You could repaint the areas and cover with clear plastic but it scratches and rips from the boots. What's worse? Rust and corrosion are damage, don't let it happen.

Pit Dog - I have an XR400 that's giving me some kick starter grief. To start it I kick slowly 'til I feel a bit of pressure, pull in the decompression, push the kick start down half a stroke and then give it a good strong shove. Has always worked before. However, now I'm finding that on the shove the kick start jams solid, as if the engines seized (but it hasn't coz it runs fine when started). So I pull in the decompression move the kick starter down a quarter stroke and try again. Sometimes it starts up fine, sometimes it jams again. Scared I'm going to break off the kick start or seriously damage its gearing. Any ideas as to what is going on? The manual says there is an automatic decompression linked to the kick start. Could this be the problem?

Pitdog: Compression does feel like a brick wall on larger 4 strokes. Ever noticed how thick the levers are compared to a 2 stroke? Yes, I do believe the automatic decompression is in-op. Read the manual again about the part that explains where the piston position for the kick starting should be.

Dear Pit Dog. I'm new to ATVing in Ft. Myers, Florida. I would like to know where I can join a club and where I can find others to help in training for the Hare Scramble races. In addition, I would like to know where I can receive an application? Any help you can give would be great. Thanks in advance, Joe Krzak E-mail JJK51762@aol.com

Pitdog: Simple, just go back to the home page on this site and look under clubs. Then just contact the one for your area. An FTR member application is available through the FTR business manager and on the home site. I don't know who can teach you about racing an ATV. Maybe your local club has some ATV racers that would let you hang while they play ride and practice. Take your time finding your speed, some of those riders can smoke on an H/S course.

I have a question about a 2001 PW80. It is my brother's. Anyway, when he rides the bike it seems to smoke more than normal  It has the oil injection system and I was wondering if there was a way to adjust the oil and fuel mixture.

Pitdog: Normal compared to another PW80? I'm not sure if the injector is adjustable but the jetting is. More fuel would mean a lower cylinder temperature and therefore more unburned oil which is smoke. If he is a beginner then lower cylinder temperature would be expected. Read the plug to get an idea of what the motor wants for jetting while he's on it. Follow the owners manual for jetting hints.

Yo, Hound Diggie, I am looking for a bigger FOUR STROKE. I have an 87 XR100. I want a bigger, faster, newer bike but not a XR200. The suspension on my bike is bad. I can't go off my 5ft jump without mad pain. How about a TTR125L? Would that be OK? Later, Pete Boch

Pitdog: Yo my Diggie dig dong low bro. (Gotta love those hip talk kids.) When did you ever think that your XR100 was made for jumping? Or an XR200, or a TTR125, for that matter. These are all TRAIL bikes, not for MX. The bigger displacement scoots would be somewhat faster and more accommodating but their suspension limitations would come quickly when you try to air them out higher than their travel is long. You must consider something with capable suspension for jumping (read race bike) if you're bent on doing MX stunts. Trail bikes are exactly that.

Dear Pit Dog. I'm 70 yrs old so forgive my formality. I play rode from 1950 to 1962 then joined San Gab Valley motorcycle club in California where I mostly rode Scrambles and Hare and Hound. I rode the T10 and T20 Triumph. Question, would those bikes be any harder to start then the XR400R or the XR650R that I want to buy? I think you're about 54, but I bow to your intellect. How's that for brown nosing? Glen Hurst

Pitdog: Normally, the Honda XRs are not that hard to start. I would think you would need to be in very good condition for your age to handle a hard starting one, after a tip over for instance, to truly enjoy the scoot. As you know, the Triumphs could be tricky at times too. I'm looking seriously at building a Yamaha TTR250 for dual sport and competition. The suspension and motor will need some help but the scoot has the magic button from the factory. I look forward to riding at your age as much as possible, not sitting on the side -- winded from trying to restart my scoot.

Hey Dog. My Buddy has a 2000 YZF426. We are confused. It seems that the FTR might require spark arresters at their Hare Scrambles next year. He has a stock pipe and exhaust. The pipe and the owners manual do not specify if it is a spark arrester in stock form. Would you know? And if it isn't a spark arrestor, what is the cheapest route to go? The cheapest we found was $250! Appreciate any help you can offer.

Pitdog: A forestry approved spark arrestor does have the a stamp of approval. This does not mean that other systems are not spark arrestors. Just the ones with the stamp are the ones that have been provided to the forestry service for certification. I will watch and participate, as well as many other FTR members, on the outcome to the spark arrestor issue within FTR in the next few weeks. Read the bottom on an FTR arrow if you have doubts about what the focus will be.

Good Dogg. I've been out of the dirt for years and just got a 78 YZ80 for me and the boys. We took it in the sand before finding out it didn't have a filter. After that I tested the compression to 35 pounds at 5 kicks. We had to redo a rusty tank with Kleem. I then put a top end kit in to get  85 pounds compression. I do have a  manual and it's far from OK. Is a bore and sleeve needed? Should I buy all jets and screw in goodies for the carb? I did clean it out but maybe not good enough. The tank had rusted garb in the fuel cock.

Pitdog: Sounds to me that you now have a hole to throw your money into or an excellent boat anchor. The sand would have ruined the lower end when it went, through basically destroying everything in its path. If you did spend money on the cylinder, the lower end would blow in short order. If the boys are just learning to ride get them a dependable 4 stroke that already runs and then move to a race bike.

Hey Pit Dog! I have a 93' Warrior that stalls when I come to an idle after 2 minutes of riding. It then is impossible to start again for at least 20 minutes. The carburetor is good and has been checked. Seems like the plug has a weak spark though. Does this sound like a Stator or a CDI problem? Any other electrical possibilities? Please help, I desperately need to be riding again. Thanks, Anthony

Pitdog: Yes, generally if a scoot suddenly starts back up after waiting several minutes then an electrical component is cooling down and turning itself back on, so to speak. An older scoot can also have a number of high resistance electrical connections causing component failure. This is caused by water and rust to any one connection of several in the wiring and switches. For you, this could mean hours of cleaning all of the connectors and component grounds in search of a bad connection. Or, it could mean testing the components from test procedures in the service manual. This takes a pro. Anyway you look at it the old girl is starting to show her age.

I own a '93 YZ250. I am looking to increase performance, speed, and still maintain the better part of my checkbook. I live in No. Metro Atlanta Ga. and I enjoy reading your advice.

Pitdog: Unfortunately most of the stock performance is probably gone with the normal wear to the cylinder. Because piston fit is so important to low end power, most older scoots have lost the grunt that makes a newer one so much more fun to ride. Your best bet will always be to have the cylinder brought back to like new specs which can be achieved with having it re-plated and the worn power valves replaced. Also, have any dents in the pipe repaired and the silencer repacked. Fit some new plastic so she'll be nice to look at and you'll have a low budget rocket.

I am interested in buying a used 2 stroke 250cc MX bike. I am looking for a bike from 1996 or later. In your opinion which company made the best bikes from that time to today? I was debating between a YZ or a KX, but would a CR or an RM be better? Which bike would tend to hold up best after several years of racing and abuse? Thanks a million!

Pitdog: In short, none. Two years of racing takes a lot out of an MX scoot. Expect major component failure on anything after so many hours no matter what the brand. Look for something less than two years old a have a pro check it out before you buy.

Hi. I'm looking at a bigger bike that has more power than my 98 XR100. I am 5'8 and 125lbs. I'm looking at either a 1987 XR250R or a 1985 Yamaha XT350. I've been riding trail for about 5 years now. I've had four strokes the whole time through. Any suggestions on what I should go for?

Pitdog: Anything newer than 85 or 87. Why drop back to something you have to fix every time you ride?

Hey. I am selling my 98 XR100. It just had the top end redone and it was bored to 110cc. It runs great and idles forever. What should I sell it for?

Pitdog: $1200 to $1500 if everything else is in perfect order.

Pitdog. How do you check the timing on a 83 PW80? I'm getting gas and spark and have just rebuilt the top end. It will not start and my pup is ready to ride.

Pitdog: Was it running and quit or did you buy it not running? I can only recommend purchasing a service manual and working through some of the test for not running. Don't spend a lot of time and money and an 83 because you can buy something running for a lot less than $1000.

Hey Pit Dog. I am 15 and have a 94 Yamaha RT100. When I ride it, if I hold the throttle constant it seems to "jump" like it loses power then gets it back again and then repeats this. I just had a new autolube pump put on it and justgot it back from the shop. What could be the causing of this? Thanks

Pitdog: A 94 could have many different problems just because of it's age. I would look for a blockage in the carb jets or fuel tank causing such surging.

My son has a 2001 XR80 and the front forks can't handle his riding. They bottom out about 80% of the time. I really don't think he's ready for a CR yet. Can the front suspension be upgraded to something like Showa shocks or something comparable? Thanks

Pitdog: I'll bet he's riding the wheels off that XR like one of my pups did. I added 10 mm of spring spacer and brought the oil the maximum level for the most help to the stock parts. If you change the forks to performance stuff the frame will crack in short order. Best keep it stock and plan on the CR.

Hey Dog. Once again it's a jetting question. The bike I'm working on is a 92 RM250. The problem comes at 0 to 3/4 throttle. The bike seems to lack power until it hits the power band. I've tried many jetting changes and aftermarket parts with no improvement. Can you help.

Pitdog: ( I did a lot of editing and had to change from caps :( ). I'll bet the cylinder to piston fit is very loose and the power valves are severely worn. One or both of these problems will not respond to jetting or hanging on of other performance parts. Bring the cylinder up to like new condition if you want like new performance.

I'm going to purchase a '01 YZ426F tomorrow. I race 125 and 250 B and have always ridden Rms. Needless to say, I'm not that knowledgeable about 4 strokes! I know you need to change the oil filter when you change your oil, so I ordered a Thumper Racing stainless steel reusable filter so I didn't have to buy one every time I replace my oil. My question is how often should I change my oil? On my two strokes I did it every other ride! Also, is there anything else I need to do regularly that I normally wouldn't do on my two strokes. Thanks a lot. Josh #635

Pitdog: I'm not sure but I'll bet the metal filter does not stop small particles like the paper filter does. I change the oil in my 125s after every ride. The 250 can go longer depending on the event. After a while, you will be able to judge the use the oil gets on the 4 stroke as time goes along. I would change it after every ride at first then make my own comparison to its color after so may hours. The valve clearance will be an important check that you don't do on 2 strokes. Suspension service will make a bigger difference than say the 125 ever did.

I recently bought my son a 98 PW80. It seems to bog out at higher rpm's. Is there a way to by-pass the rev limiter? If so how? I don't have the manual. Thanks

Pitdog: I'm relatively sure you are not hitting a rev limiter. (Wish I could say the same for the meat heads in the camping area at Mid-Ohio last weekend.) Anyway, the PWs have exhaust and carb restrictors. Start with purchasing the manual.

Dear Pit Dog. I have a 95 XR650L Dual Sport. I was wondering if they make a kickstarter for it and where I might go about finding one. I see that there is a circular indentation where the kickstarter should go. thanks for your time.

Pitdog: My question for you would be what are you trying to achieve? If you are having a starter problem I'm sure it would be a lot cheaper to fix what you have. The Honda parts book might be able to tell you what parts you would need to make a conversion.

Which is a better two-stroke motocross bike for beginners the YZ80 or the CR80? I have been riding a Honda XR100R and I would really like to get riding a two-stroke.

Pitdog: The only logical reason to choose the Honda over the Yamaha is because you might already have red gear. Either scoot will be a huge difference over the XR. Get ready.

Hey. I have a 96 DR350 dual sport right now. I just got a job at Forest Park Honda and they're going to hook me up with some good deals on the 400 and the 250 XRs. I'm having trouble choosing between the two bikes. I want the 400 for the brute power but I want the 250 for the light weight. I do a lot of trail riding. I was wondering if you can tell me what are the good things about the 400 and 250 XRs and the bad things about them. Plus maybe you can tell me how the performance of my bike is better or worse then the 250 and 400. Thanks a lot. Rich

Pitdog: You've answered your own question about the basic differences of the XRs. Choose the 250 if you are under 150lb for sure. Your DR will be a lot like the XR400 but the XR is competition ready so it will make a lot better off-road scoot right out of the box. I like the 250 and I weight 190lb.

Dog. I just bought my first dirtbike off a friend and he didn't tell me the mix ratio. I have a 98 KX125. What is the right mix ratio?

Pitdog: The factory had recommended 32:1. This could have been changed for some reason, however. The most important thing is to get the jetting right for you on the bike. Mix ratios affect that. Your best bet will be to get an owners manual so you can follow its jetting hints.

Hey Pit Dog! I am trying to fix up a 1983 Honda XR80 for my grandsons to ride in the hills where we live. I need help though. I can't find the timing mark on the crankshaft. We have good compression and fire, but it will not start. Figuring it is the timing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. PaPa in Arkansas

Pitdog: An 83 might have points to fire the coil. Just like an old car, the points and condenser need to operate for correct fire. If you are staying away from the Honda dealer then you need to own a service manual to proceed with some testing.

Hey Pit Dog. I just read some of your column and you sound like your extremely experienced in the motorcycle department. I am 16 years old, 5'7" and 175 lbs. I live in Texas not Florida but I like to trail ride in New Mexico and down in the Canadian River. Anyway, I was looking into buying an XR250R. I rode my friend's dad's bike and I loved it. I also rode my friends KDX220. I love both of these bikes. Yes, I know they are quite different 4-stroke vs. 2-stroke but I was wondering which bike is better suited to my riding needs. I also enjoy riding on my family's farm in tall water pits and dirt piles. I am looking for the best combo of low end power and comfortable suspension for light jumping?

Pitdog: You have ridden two of the best off-road bikes in the 250 Enduro class so I'm not surprised. Neither scoot is set up for jumping, however, so consider something else or immediate suspension changes if you pick either. As I've said before, farm animals get along with the 4 stroke better because of it's less aggressive sound. The XR will be a little easier to service but a little harder to start. Think hard.

Dog. I have a 00 RM125. Since I bought it, I have had trouble with oil building up in the pipe and silencer. I have lowered my mix ratio but I am now at a point where I do not want to go any further. Should I change the jetting to stop this?

Pitdog: By lowering did you mean going from 40:1 to 32:1? If so, you went the wrong way. Some build up is normal on the power valves and exhaust system. You really need to read the spark plug and jet for a proper color instead of going by how much oil you see in the exhaust. If you are a beginner you are simply not keeping the motor on the pipe which causes the cylinder to run cool and not burn off the oil. This is an important reason for having jetting set up specifically for you on any scoot. Read your owner manual for tips on jetting.

Hey there Mr. Dog, here's the deal. I'm looking to get a good trail/play bike. I'm not interested in leaving the ground too much as of yet (read: chicken). I've ridden small dirt bikes before as a kid but am quite inexperienced in dirt bike riding. I'm 33 years old, 6'2" and around 200lbs. I currently ride a Honda ACE 750 street bike. I have found a pretty good deal on a new Yamaha TTR 250. I have also been considering a Honda XR250, but they're a bit more costly. The TTR also has electric start, which would be a plus on a four stroke. Would the 250s be okay to haul my butt around or should I go with the XR400? I don't think serious Motocrossing is in my future and want something light enough to learn on. Thanks in advance for your help.

Pitdog: The XR is a bit more of a ready to go race bike than the TTR but I love the button aspect of the Yamaha. Considering the cost of replacing the springs for your weight, the deal on the TTR looks like a wash of money. Either scoot would be an excellent choice for fun or Enduro competition. Having a 400 over a 250 isn't going to be a large factor until your speed is B rider fast. I really like the possibilities of the 250 class 4 strokes but prefer the button so there you go.

Hi Pit Dog. Well, I have a 1992 Suzuki RMX 250 that started to run poorly. It seemed to run rich and crappie at low end and then spring to life at higher rpm's so I checked the spark plug gap, rebuilt the carb, replaced the piston and rings. Now it runs crappie all the time. When I had the top end off the bike I cleaned my power valve and here is where I made a mistake. I cleaned the power valve with oven cleaner and I left it on too long. The oven cleaner pitted the aluminum so I tried to wire brush off the black ruff crappie stuff but that only put scratches in place of the ruff crappie stuff. After pricing the power valve at $600 I put the damaged one back in. Could that be the reason it runs crappie at both the top and bottom end or could it be the crank shaft seal leaking transmission oil into the top end? I did not have a spell check so I am sorry for the misspelled words. Guy

Pitdog: For all my readers. I do have spell check and the web master does edit, so most of your spelling gets corrected. At times it's like trying to understand Greek, however. Anyway, for you, I believe your power valve was severely worn before you brushed it and made it worse. The crank seals are probably leaking some too along with a worn carb and a worn cylinder. These are facts of life with older off-road scoots. I would try to find a used cylinder assembly to salvage better power valves, for one, and if the crank seals are original they are way over due. Consider what shape the scoot will be in and how much you will have invested before you go at it. It may be time to cut your losses and get something newer.

OK Pit Dog, I'm not sure if you answer questions on Polaris quads, but here it is. I have a Polaris Trailblazer 250 and my dad and I just replaced the stock piston with a Wiseco .020 piston. We had the cylinder bored, it all fit nicely, but when we tried starting it, it wouldn't start. Later we found out it only had 85 lbs. of compression. We took it to a mechanic and he said somehow rust got into the rings so he honed it and put it back together. It ran for 2 minutes and shut off. Then he replaced the rings and again it ran for only 2 minutes. The mechanic said he'd never seen anything like this and that he wanted to go .040. Is this the answer or can you try and help me out in anyway?

Pitdog: A compression test is a good way of looking at cylinder performance from the outside but measurements are the exact science. The piston should have about .003 clearance, and the ring gap should be around .020. I suspect the cylinder ports are so worn or damaged that the rings only last an instant. Cylinder charge and discharge are directly related to available compression so eliminate blockage possibilities there. Also check to see if the crank seals are OK because a 2 stroke will not run without them in place. Sounds like your mechanic is barking up the wrong tree as we say around the Doghouse.

Hey Pitdog! I recently replaced the front and rear sprockets and chain on my son's 1993 KX80. The chain needs to be tightened after each time it is ridden. Both sprockets are steel. The chain adjusters are also new. My son is a beginner rider and does not ride it to hard yet. Is this normal? Thanks

Pitdog: If you purchased the least expensive chain I would say yes. Chains come in several qualities. A high quality non O-ring chain can cost as much as a standard O-ring. If you ride off-road in a lot of sand or water an O-ring is a must. Proper service to the chain after riding also makes a huge difference. Clean the sprockets with soap and an old tooth brush after every ride. Try not to force a lot of water directly into the chain. I prefer not to use those heavy chain lubes on my chain because they build up and attract the sand. I use white lithium grease from a spray can or Amsoil makes a nice product called MP. Double check the chain alignment by sighting down the rear sprocket as you turn the wheel.

I am interested in entering the MX world. I have several friends that have bikes but I have little experience on them. I have read many books and know the basics but just lack practice. I have ridden my friends bikes a few times successfully (without crashing). I want to buy a new YZ250. I really don't want a 125 because from what I have heard many people want more power after a while and I feel buying a 250 would be a better long term investment. I also don't want a used bike in fear of buying a piece of crap. Are YZ250's capable of learning on?

Pitdog: Some riders could learn on a 2 stroke 250. Being big enough for the scoot means a lot. Real beginners would advance faster on something a little lesser because it's hard to gain confidence on any race bike. I think you would be better off nailing down the basics on a 125 or light 4 stroke before jumping to the 250. Don't try jumping until you have absolute confidence in
your landings no matter which bike you choose. Those good riders at the MX track generally started on PW50s and have lots of experience.

I just had the gears replaced in my 1995 YZ250. When the cases where split the guy told me that the cases were 2 different ones. He said who ever had the bike before me messed up one half of the cases so he bought just one half. Would that make the gears mess up over time? They both are 1995 YZ250 cases it's just that they are made from 2 different companies. Thank you for your help

Pitdog: I didn't know there was another company that made cases for Yamaha. Anyway, matching the sealing surfaces and setting up the shaft play is what will be important for gear life. If it all works as new when you shift it probably has been set up correctly.

What up Pit Dog? I recently bought a 2001 YZ250F and I was having trouble starting it. It seems to have a mind of its own. I mean it seems like it only cranks when it wants to. It will start if you kick hard enough without the compression release, but it takes a few more kicks with the compression release. Do you know of any companies that make an electric starter or is that just something I can dream about? I would like to know any secret or just a method that is easier to do than what I'm doing? Thanks. Ryan.

Pitdog: I recently spent the day with other riders on the 250 and the 426 4 stroke Yamaha's. Three of us rookie 250 4 stroke riders could not start the scoot, after a tip over, so the vet owner had to come over and show us up. Not for me. I spent an hour on a brand new 426 offer by a friend for some fast, mixed trail riding. Although the new stiff boingers combined with the hard pack tire suffered in the sand, the 426 started right up at all times -- even after several tip overs by me pushing the front. Good stuff. The new WR426 has in sore need on the cam timing change, for more mid range, which I hope would not make it hard to start like the 250. Time will tell. I've already seen an aftermarket starter on a 250 in one of the trade magazines. Because of the prototype design, expect to pay dearly. Also, follow the restart procedure exactly detailed in the manual. Opening the throttle means trouble.

I have a 2001 CR 250. I have heard a lot of different "rumors" about a bad carb system. In the past, I have had starting troubles. What steps would you recommend to eliminate the hard starts -- i.e., aftermarket carb, change jetting, new pipe and jetting, buy new bike?

Pitdog: I am constantly asked about jetting woes. Most of the questions don't get a reply because my answer is always the same, "The cure will only be the result of your testing." I will say this about your rumor issue. Late model MX scoots are so trick (read finicky), right out of the box, that tuning them goes way beyond most riders. Just like a razor blade, we have nothing if tuning is not on the edge. I can't recall when Honda made a "bad" system just something a little different not unlike the other manufacturers. Most off-road riders can't find the solution to their tuning woes because pro tuners will not go with you to listen to your scoot and watch you ride. You will find your answer by testing, not replacing carbs and pipes. Read the owners manual, read the plug, buy some assorted jets you can try. Find a small course that you can run repeatedly, write everything down, look -- listen -- and feel each change you make. Perfection will smack you right in the nose. It's a beautiful thing.

Mr. Pitdog. (Yeah I know that "Mr." implies that you don't work for a living but I still think it is proper when asking for advice.) Hey, I have 2000 WR400F and I am going to be taking it to the mountains in Colorado. We will be riding at altitudes between 10,000 and 14,000 feet. I have the stock jetting now. Can you tell me how I will have to change the jetting? That is, how many sizes up or down on the main and any other relevant info on four strokes of this type where altitude is the determining factor. I am not very schooled when it comes to four strokes. I only recently made the transition from 2 to 4. Thanks, Loren Horn, Wichita Ks.

Pitdog: That elevation is pretty high for low land jetting but stock jetting is usually lean from the get-go. Since you will have less O2 at that height, your scoot will want less fuel. Changing your jetting back and forth unless you plan to stay up for more than a short time will be a pain in the neck, however. You can adjust the low fuel screw for a minor adjustment at any time, and keeping a clean air filter will help. If you need to operate on the carb, go ahead and get some main jets that step down a few from stock to carry with you, and maybe a hotter plug. I'm sure everyone else will be in the same boat. And by the way, one of our club rules is that you work less and ride more. Life is good in Orlando.

Dog. My 01 KX was running rich down low so the pilot jet was changed from a 52 to 50. The results were just as desired except in order to achieve optimal performance the air screw needed to be adjusted. Now the bike idles so high that the idle stop doesn't have much of an effect. The air screw will bring the idle down but that 'richens' the mixture and in turn decreases the power. The plug is a perfect tan color but the bike seems to be harder to start now (3-5 kicks instead of 1-3). Any help would be great, thanks.

Pitdog: You didn't say what displacement but I guess 125. Hard to start and high idling are dead giveaways to a lean pilot. I think you would have been better off working with the needle height to lean out the low to mid. Also check the spark timing to exact specs when jetting a new scoot.

Hey Pit Dog. I have a question. I'm a trail riding kind of guy. I'm big too, 5'10, 220lb. I've started on an XR100 and I like the bike but it's time to move up. I'm not really that experienced yet, since I've only ridden for 5 months, but I'm too big for the bike. I'm looking at an XR200. They ride nice but I really haven't ridden the 200 hard yet. Do you think the 200 would be a good choice? Mike

Pitdog: I'll say you're too big for the 100, and the 200 for that matter. Stock springs could handle 150 to 200 pounds on the 200 with some swift trail riding, but a little faster or a heavier rider would not be so good. It would take quite a bit to beef up the boingers on the 200 because the shock would need complete replacement. I suggest looking for a unit that has a replaceable shock spring so you can tune the suspension to your weight.

Hey Dude. We are having problems with our Warriors. When we give it gas it bogs out. We had the valves adjusted but it still does the same thing. What else can we do?

Pitdog: I suspect they are new units because a valve adjustment is part of the first service and they both act the same. If you have removed the baffles you've messed up the air/fuel flow which can be corrected with re-jetting. Even stock exhaust may require some major carb adjustments because the like new compression burns off so much of the fuel. The owners manual should cover tuning hints or ask a racer that rides one for their opinion.

Pitdog. Every time I go over jumps on my 87 XR100 it feels like I have no suspension at all. It hurts my feet even when wearing my boots and also my lower back. I have lost my owners manual and I don't know what to do to give my bike more suspension. My dad said to put a bigger shock on the back but I'm not sure. Any thoughts?

Pitdog: Consider this. Your XR is a trail bike with maybe 6" of suspension travel. When new, it was designed to be in the air about as high as the suspension is long. Every time you bottom the thing by going higher, that clang does a minor amount of damage to its parts. When you go higher and hurt your back or ankles, you do a minor amount of damage to yourself. Why are you doing this? And dad, why are you letting him? Sure you can buy a trick shock but the cost would be more than the whole scoot is worth plus the frame would snap in half from the stress. I know jumping is fun, but you don't want to be on that XR when it all goes wrong. Stop the madness or buy a race bike.

Hi Pit Dog. This is a question about a dual-sport conversion kit. I would like to know if I could get it done on my '96 Yamaha Banshee 4-wheeler (I think it would be kinda cool to fly down the roads on my quad). I know they had them a few years ago because of an add in the dirtbike and 4-wheeler mags. Your help would be much appreciated. 

Pitdog: I'm not much of a 4 wheeler guy but I do know this (as a former industry representative), no production ATV has ever been made that can be DOT approved for a tag. This is not to say that some cannot go through enough conversions to get a one-off rating. With the narrow axle length and high stance, I know I wouldn't want to be on a hard road at 60MPH when it all goes wrong on a production 4 wheeler. Consider a dune buggy.

Hi. My son has a 1989 YZ80. The bike runs like a champ and everything when he let's it warm up. It idles fine but after he rides it for a while, and it starts heating up, it stalls if he is not giving it gas or when he stops. He has to keep revving the engine so it doesn't stall. What should be done for it to stop stalling like this? I know it's not normal. Thanks

Pitdog: Apparently you haven't been around race bikes much. As I've said before, it is difficult to keep a race 2 stroke idling. They're made to go fast, not slow. An older one like yours will have additional reasons for not wanting to idle. If your son is just learning to ride it will be difficult for him to understand to keep the motor running at all times. Fortunately he will learn quickly or start him out on a 4 stroke then move to a race bike.

The guy I bought my bike from apparently striped the case that the clutch cover goes on to. He taped it, did a bad job, and it striped again. Do you think I could use a Helli coil on it? I'm low on cash for a couple of weeks and need a fix so I can ride. Thank you Pitdog

Pitdog: A HeliCoil would be the proper fix but it's going to be difficult on those small threads. If you mess up the case half you will be in big trouble. Just like everything else in life, if you try something your not sure of, you may PAY more in the long run.

Gday. I have a DRZ400E1. I'm just wondering  if you could tell me of tyres to fit to the beast? It pushes in the front  and fails to drive with the rear and is very loose in  the sand. The terrain is semi hard loam to sandy.
Thanks

Pitdog: Here in the Southeastern U.S. of A. we use the soft terrain tires from the varied manufacturers. New scoots usually come with an intermediate tire that doesn't work so good in sand. Use 12lb in the tires and try decreasing the compression to get more weight transfer for grip.

How much should I sell a 1990 KX125 that I just replaced the top end, new tires and rims. The bike runs good and looks good.

Pitdog: $1000 would be all the money if everything works as new.

I am 5'7'' and weigh about 130lb. Would an 1991 RM80X be to small for me? This would be my first bike and I am starting off. Thanks.

Pitdog: Yes, I think it would be a little short for you. You could ride a 125 just fine but it would be a handful of a starter bike. Look for a trail bike that you could learn the basics on for a year before moving to a race bike. Find something that you can just touch your toes on the ground if you are still growing.

Hey Dog. I am interested in a 96 RM125 a friend is selling. This bike is in great shape and is hardly used -- it still has the stock back tire. When he let me borrow it I noticed that when I stopped and pulled in the clutch, while in gear, it wanted to creep forward like I was letting the clutch partly out. He said that it's normal for a race bike, but my DR350 never did that. It also has conventional forks like a trail bike. Are these any good for motocross?

Pitdog: It probably has the stock rear tire because he pulled it off from day one and then put it back on to sell it. New plastic and stock tires hide a lot to the eye. You must get a pro opinion if you really want to know what condition a scoot is in. Incomplete clutch disengagement is a dead give away of wear to the basket. Conventional forks on a RM are much better than the forks on a DR so don't make a comparison on the look. This scoot should sell for as much as $1500 if everything works properly.

Hey Pit Dog. I just purchased a 96 CR500 coming from my 92. It has lots of upgrades and seems to have been well taken care of. Something I noticed after getting it home is that on the stand the front wheel does not spin as freely as I think it should. There are no noises or anything. I guess I should remove the caliper assembly and decide if it is a wheel or brake issue. I believe it is a wheel issue. Any suggestions or ideas on how to proceed.
Thanks a Million

Pitdog: I would think it's the caliper piston or rotor run-out. You can simply push the piston back with the caliper on to prove those. Wheel bearings don't go bad as often on the front as they do on the back. Brake rotor run-out and caliper piston binding are the number one failures.

I have a 1996 Yamaha WR250. I bought it new and ever since I bought it the bike fouls plugs. If I go riding for the weekend, I will usually go through at least 3 plugs. I had it into the shop once and they could not give me an answer to what the problem was. I have talked to other shops out of state that Yamaha has told me to contact. They also have not been able to help me out. I recently read an article that said that the WR250 is just a plug fouling bike. I am having a hard time believing that there is not a fix. Could you help me out? It is getting very frustrating and not to mention, very expensive. The plugs they recommend for the bike is the B8EG. I have been using the B8ES. The bike seems to run the same with either plug but the B8ES is half the price. Thanks Dave

Pitdog: Dave, Dave, Dave. Nobody is going to tell you the cure over the phone because it can only be solved by YOUR TESTING. The guys at the shop aren't going to help either unless you pay them to be your personal mechanic. Did you get an owners manual? Doesn't it read about plug color and jetting? Every scoot needs to be jetted to riding conditions and the rider. It's almost a personal relationship. Find out what's in your carb for jets and buy a few smaller pilots and main jets. Read the manual and find out how jetting affects plug color. You'll be astonished at the difference. The B8ES should work fine also.

Hello. I have a 1986 Honda CR125. I don't know if my bike is over heating. The thing is, it loses antifreeze out of the overflow tube. I changed the radiator cap so that's not the problem. My dad says that it is not overheating. Are all dirt bikes supposed to lose antifreeze?

Pitdog: You may lose some coolant at select times because of the conditions or the way you rode. It should not lose coolant every time you ride. Ask your dad if he thinks his car would be overheating if it did the same thing. He'll say yes. An old scoot like yours could have a number of problems. Look for head gasket leaks and radiator blockage.

Pit Dog. I ride a Kawasaki 1990 KX250. I'm having a problem when I start it after it sits for a few days. Upon initial start up the bike will idle very high no matter what I do with the choke. It will idle that way for about 20 seconds or so, then it will calm down and idle properly. Also, I've been going through a number of plugs and I always use the NGK Racing plugs. I don't know if the two problems are related but your input will be definitely
appreciated. Thanx

Pitdog: I like my scoot to idle high on start up but not 'very high' as you say yours does. Considering the year, you probably have an air leak to the cylinder. This can happen several places but mostly at the intake boot, base gasket, and crank bearing seals. Problems with fouling plugs could come from crank seals which also explains the RPM problem. Face it, it's an old scoot
-- get out the wallet.

Hello. I have a 1994 Honda CR250 that refuses to idle. It runs fine otherwise but just won't idle. I took the bike to a local shop and they told me a new stock carburetor wouldn't help, and that this was normal for the 1994 model. This doesn't sound right to me. I hope you can help. Thanks.

Pitdog: Most MX bikes hate to idle so get used to it. The older the motor, the more variables there are. Did you ask the shop to check for a problem or just if a carb would help? A great tuner can make it idle if you spend the money. Is it worth that?

Hey Mr. Pit Dog. (Going to have to edit some of your copy, PD). I live in South Florida and heard a lot about Croom's, Crystal Lake near Ocala, etc. I'm planning a trip up there this month. Is there a nice camp site near Croom's for tent camping with lake or pool? The reason I ask is that I'm bringing kids riding too. Also if the wife comes (and she wants to) she's not into biking so would rather be in a different park with some other things to do. Also, is Croom's a lot of sugar sand? Where else is there to ride in Orlando area? I have a 96 XR250L. I've been modifying to make as dirt worthy as possible. I like riding the trails. So far I have slapped on a Supertrapp, re-jetted, opened the airbox (drilled holes in) a K&N filter, hard terrain knobs (although I could use a good reference on best knob to use that is super, super hard but still full motocross), skid plate, jumped up rear sprocket 3 teeth and lower front 1 tooth, gold series chain, and dressed up with some nice graphics. The next thing I am doing is drop in a Cam, and forced air injection on the carb. What I wanted to know is what you know about the forced air injection system for the XR's? Am I going to be safe putting this on? What are the pros and cons of ramming air into the carb? Also, what would you do next? I love the bike, but when I do jumps it's like landing a school bus. I would also like some more power band. I am 5'10 145 lbs. Thanks

Pitdog: Crooms has a nice camp ground, in the back, with showers and hook ups. The next best area is in the South Ocala area of Big Scrub -- primitive camping with bathrooms. Crooms does have a lot of sand in the sections of pines but there are also a lot of fun trails that aren't so loose and some fun hill climb sections of clay. Don't worry about taking your family riding, ever, because you will find families like yours around every turn. The meatheads are very few and far between. If the wife wants a pool there are motels right outside the park but not much else. There really are not tires that will work on hard surface and a Florida MX track. Some cross over but they wear quickly. Buy spare wheels if you have the need. You've already done most of the mods I would do to a XR250. You can't get much more power without more displacement or compression. I don't think you'll like the cam change without piston and head mods. Forget the air injection. If you want to have a great trail bike, you already have one of the best. Quit trying to make it a crossover MX'r. Buy a used 125 for that.

Pit Dog. I have a 2000 KX80 that I bought yesterday. It runs and looks great. My family owns a 45 acre horse farm that I ride it and my other bikes (2000 TT-R125L, 400EX) on. Today my dad asked what the quietest silencer I could buy to keep the horses calm. Do you know what I should buy? If possible I would like a power increase as well, but the noise is first. Thanks a lot.

Pitdog: You're asking the Dog? I think you should ask the horses. They will say "we can stand those two trail machines putting around -- they sort of sound like the tractor. But that race bike sounds like something you're going to use on my teeth so get it out of here unless I get a shot first." So you see, the only time you can ride around horses will be on something -- let's say, less emotional. And remember to kill your motor when you run up on horses on the trail.

Hello. I'm 15 and looking at the new 2002 YZ125. What's up with the new 5 speed transmission? See if you can figure this too. I now have a 99 KTM125SX (Kenny Bartran's old one). When I am riding and it gets warm, when I kill it, it won't start back up for nothing. It won't die on its own, only when I kill it. Then it will bump start perfectly. My local dealers can't figure it out and it's getting old, on the track, looking like you're dumb for bump starting it and pushing it. I replaced the jet size like KTM recommended and I put a new Wiesco piston and ring in it. What you think?

Pitdog: Do you do your own tuning and rebuilding? If so, you might be better off getting a little pro help to get by this problem. Look for a weak spark to the plug when you have this problem kicking it. Do this at night so you can watch the color of the spark. The new YZ125 power spread has progressed to the point that the factory can design the gearing so a rider doesn't need to shift as often. This also saves weight.

Hi there Mr. Dog. I have a 2000 KX250 and I LOVE it. The only thing is, I am an older rider (44) and I don't really need all of the low end torque this baby puts out. I don't ride Motocross, just trails, woods, and such. I LOVE the bike and I don't really want a 4 stroke or an "Enduro" type bike. Can I put a smaller sprocket on the rear to gain top end and decrease that Awesome Low end? What do you suggest? Thank you very much! I Love your column -- very, very informative! Randy

Pitdog: First of all, 44 is not old -- thank you very much. I changed the rear sprocket on my KX down one tooth from stock for the same reasons you list. This gives me a top speed of 75 MPH on a road section. Yours is newer and has even quicker stock gearing. I have heard, from my buds, that the first gear is higher on the later models making it a dilemma for choices in the rear sprocket. The combination of a weighted flywheel and small gear changes has been the solution for them.

To Mr. Dog. I have a 92' YZ250. I was wondering if there was any problems or things I need to know about my bike and I thought who better to ask than you. My bike is extremely hard to start. It has just had a full engine rebuild. To start it when it is cold you have to take the spark plug out and spray it with RP7 or Aerostart. Sometimes you have to do this 2 or 3 times but when it's hot it starts first kick. Do you think it's the jetting or the float because it seems to be flooding? I am running it at 32:1 because I don't want to seize it. Do you think I should lean it off a bit? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Pitdog: Sounds to me like you've answered your own question if it's flooding. Let the scoot sit over night with the drain screw out of the carb bowl and the fuel off. If the fuel continues to drip out of the drain hole and it starts right up when you assemble it, there's your problem. If not, go back to the basics -- strong spark, good compression, and fuel in the cylinder all at the right time. Don't guess, test and solve.

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