Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - how to prepare, bike setup and maintenance.

Dog. When changing the gear oil on my new KX250 I noticed that there was a chunk ripped off the top of my drain plug. I use Maxima Gear Oil and change it regularly. Could a tooth from a gear be broken or maybe a chunk out of my clutch plates? I don't abuse the clutch very often but sometimes I speed shift (no clutching). What do think? Thanx

Pitdog: I think the drain plug actually cracked at the threads. You can buy a replacement plug that has a built in magnet. They are good for monitoring your oil and catching loose metal.

Hi Dog. I just read that you weren't supposed to use any of the synthetic oils in a four stroke, like Mobil 1. I have used Mobil 1 15-50 and have not experienced problems but supposedly its use in a wet sump engine deteriorates the lubricating qualities because of the gear and clutch action and could lead to crank bearing failure. I know you have the article on oils in here, but I have never before seen a warning regarding using synthetic oils in four strokes. I use the same oil in my two stroke gearboxes with no problem. Any thoughts. thanks, Peter

Pitdog: You might be able to use peanut oil in your stuff without problems but the odds of having a problem would be very high. So this is the point. You know the more often you change your oil the better off you will be -- you can actually see the difference. What you can't see about an oil is the shear strength and other important factors of protection. When you vary from what is recommended by the design engineers, you increase the odds of having a problem. Your riding style is another huge factor. If you have exceptionally good luck, just use peanut oil. If you're more like the rest of us, the closer you are to what's recommended, the better off you will be.

My son stripped out the threads on his oil plug and in the drain hole by tightening it to much. How could I fix this? Do I need a hole new set of cases?

Pitdog: Helli Coil ! It would be best to have a pro tuner install one for you. Then buy your son a torque wrench so he can learn the right way.

Hey Pit Dog! My son has a 1999 KX60. We purchased it used and it looks and runs real strong. Starts first kick. Plug looks great etc... The only problem is on the low end of the gears it has a slow throttle response. It slowly climbs initially in RPMs and then catches and nearly throws you off the back. It really screams when it gets wound up. Any thoughts. I inspected the reeds and they look good. However I did order a new set to install just in case.
Thank you in advance.

Pitdog: If this is your first experience with a small displacement 2 stroke, welcome to the club. Really, the smaller a 2 stroke displacement is, the bigger the transition of power there is from low to high RPMs. Ride a KX500. You'll wait nearly no time for the power. On the other hand, small displacement scoot are very sensitive to loss of compression and jetting. The ring seal will barely make ten hours before needing replacement and the jetting needs change when a cloud blocks the sun. A KX60 is a pure race bike for the 8 to 10 year old riders. It will be hard for you son to come to grips with its power curve at first if he is a beginner but luckily they learn quickly.

Pit Dog. What is the best possible way to make the most room on a bike for a taller rider (Higher bars, etc)??

Pitdog: Using higher bars and moving the mounts forward are the only things I can think of. After market upper triple clamp mounts usually give you that option.

I have an 1989 KX125. Sometimes when I am riding the E-clip will come off my jet needle. I put a new jet needle in and a new E-clip but it still does it sometimes. What could be causing this?

Pitdog: Sounds like there's a retainer missing that holds the needle down. You'll need to look at the parts book picture blowup to figure it out.

Once again I must seek the sage counsel of the one who knows all things mechanical. Pit Dog...why not an article on performance gains and loss due to forestry approved spark arrestors? Perhaps the FTR will allow "screens" or strainers the first season. I know screens work, but I also know they eventually burn through. FTR will need a set of parameters in which to enforce what is and what is not an "arrestor." Seems to me, we might accomplish our intent and still be able to safeguard the land. What do YOU think mystical one? Thor, Wonder Dog of the North! (and your dedicated listener)

Pitdog: I would think such an article would come from a tuner in the sport that has been subjected to many different design arrestors and displacement scoots -- but here's my two cents. As I said before, my 250 needs no re-jetting but does seams to loose some of it's instant snap with the Sparky on. Since I've run it mostly in Enduros and appreciate that kind of performance in an event that may run 6 hours, I like it. I might be able to pick up some of that old snap with leaner jetting but I like the protection of the fuel for those long sections on the roads so I leave it alone. I'm never been a serious Hare Scramble rider (sorry Randy) but I'm ready and willing to run the Sparky at any time. Yes, a screen will work like my forest approved unit. The screen will not last, however, unless it is the heavy stainless stuff that's used in production units. This is where FTR will have a problem. The unit must be durable and the only assurance that it will be would mean the stamp of forestry approval. The land use agenda is the number two issue of FTR after the three series. I support that agenda whole heartily. I don't think spot checks after the event will be enough. Assurance of a Sparky's protection comes from the forestry stamp of approval and they're quieter too! If I want my bike to be faster all I need to do is train more. Our race bikes are world class stuff right out of the box. Our best riders are 'the talk of the Southeast' but we are not top world class riders. A Sparky isn't going to change that.

Hey Dog! I figured another opinion would be good, especially yours! I went riding (99 YZ400) at Croom yesterday, and the bike ran well, but hot. After about an 1.5 hours it started spitting coolant so I decided to retire it. After getting home I pulled the subframe, shock, and carb off. The intake manifold was sealing properly, the filter was clean and oiled, and I haven't changed the jetting since the middle of the race season. However, when looking into the intake tract, I noticed the outer two intake valves had carbon deposits on them, and there was a brown discoloration on the outer two tracts. The valves were checked lately, and were within specs. Oh yeah, the bike ran perfect at the Scrub Oak "family ride"... Hope this info is enough to diagnose this weird occurrence. Thanks, Josh

Pitdog: Hum. If it was jetting or an intake leak it seems you would noticed stalling or bogging on the ride. A different color to the other intake tracks may be somewhat normal because they are the outside line. When I rode the scoot at Richloam, I thought the main was fat or maybe the compression was falling off. If you use automotive coolant in the thing you may have radiator buildup for that matter -- always use coolant for scooters. I would test for compression loss, head gasket leaking, water pump action, and radiator flow before riding again.

Pit Dog, Any ideas on this? I have an old 1988 Honda CRM250. You probably know this but these were a Japanese market trail-bike that looks like a CR (to cash in on the success of those bikes) but is mechanically quite different -- autolube, lights, etc.. The bike normally runs pretty well but has developed a stubborn fault. It will eventually start after copious kicking, run for about 10 seconds then expire. I have changed plugs, flushed carb, and checked for water in the gas. The carb is a round slide Keihin unit. Would the normal idle air screw setting be about 1.5 turns out? I have found a split in the cylinder side of the carb manifold which I a replacing if I can find a part. I can't get a manual...not an English one anyway! Spark is strong (with the plug out of cylinder). Could it be failing under compression? I have checked and cleaned all the electrical connections I can get at. I'm reluctant to take it to a bike shop as it will cost more than the bike is worth! Regards, Rod from New Zealand.

Pitdog: I still think it's a clogged carb pilot and/or main jet. Starting and running for a few seconds tells me it's just getting fuel from the choke circuit then starving for more. Also set up a test fuel supply instead of the petcock from the tank. Compression and spark usually don't change in a 10 second run time. 1.5 turns on the air screw is normal but only a fine adjustment, not relative to just getting it to run. If the spark plug is dry when it stalls then fuel is your problem you know.

Hi Pit Dog: I am working on a 1986 Kawasaki KX80 for my wife. I am trying to disassemble the forks to replace the fork seals. I have the forks out of the bike and taken apart as much as I can. I just removed the dampener tube and bottoming springs. How do I remove the fork tube from the lower leg? It slides in and out freely but does not completely come out. I have also removed the metal wire snap ring from above the seal but I can not get the fork tube out. I am hesitant to pull on the fork tube really hard to see if it will separate from the lower leg. Is this how to separate the two? Will the bushings also come out if I do this? Will the bushings get damaged this way? Thank you, John Paterek

Pitdog: Where you are now is as far as you can go without special tools. Considering the year, I would think the bushings and seals need to be replaced. Take them to a pro tuner and pay the money -- you'll be much better off. You might need new springs too.

Pit Dog. I have a 01 WR426 and I had the mechanic bring the cam timing to YZ specs. However, now at half throttle the bike sometimes coughs. Do you think this could be the needle jet adjustment? If so, why is it affecting the bike now?

Pitdog: You've changed flow and pressure into the cylinder with the YZ valve timing. This will result in more power at certain RPMs as you obviously have noticed. Now you are generating more heat which burns more of the available fuel. So my answer would be yes, more fuel would be one solution to your performance glitch.

Hey Dog. On my bike when I hold in the clutch and put it into first gear and turn the throttle sometimes it will start to go forward very slowly and try to go without me even letting out on my clutch the slightest bit. Can you tell me what the heck is going on here? Thanks

Pitdog: Simply read down to other answers I have given on this syndrome. Click here for one reply.

Hi Pit Dog. My son owns a Honda XR70. He rode it recently and my brother said he had been riding it the entire time with the choke on. My brother seems pretty worried that damage was done. Can you tell me if there was, and if so, what kind of service might I need to have done? He rode for approximately 3-4 hours.

Pitdog: Let's see, your young son was riding with the choke on while he was with your brother. Your brother couldn't tell until after or was he not listening? Hum. Extra fuel in the combustion chamber would wash out the ring surface over time. 3-4 hours isn't that long. I would change the engine oil right away because some extra fuel could have diluted it.

Pit Dog. Can you use regular motor oil in the bottom end or gear case on a new 250cc two stroke dirt bike? I heard Castrol 10w-30 would be OK but I thought I'd run it by the "DOG" first. Thanks.

Pitdog: You could and sometimes I do use motor oil in my tranny but the correct oil is for the gears and the clutch specifically. An excellent article was on the this site not long ago on the answers why. Click to see it.

I have an '89 RM250 which is not running. It has spark but seems to be getting it at the wrong time. My tuner tells me it's probably the electronic box or the stator coil. Can you suggest which I should try first or is there a way of trouble shooting this beyond just trying one or the other. Guessing wrong and buying both items is what I'm looking to avoid.

Pitdog: There are specific tests in the repair manual for the ignition. The problem is, either part will cost about what the scoot is worth. After you invest in the repair manual and buy whatever part will get it running, how good is the rest? Hum.

Pit Dog. I saw your reply to Dave's question regarding the higher octane aviation fuel, you said that it would create more heat, however the higher the octane (to a certain degree) the more controlled the burn and in turn the cooler the engine runs. I myself have had mixed reviews pertaining to AV gas and would be interested in any other information you could produce.

Pitdog: I've had other comments on the AV gas thing so I'll respond again. You and others are correct in that higher octane fuel has a more controlled flash point. This can reduce heat (which is horsepower) if jetting is correct for existing fuel. This can help if pre ignition is a problem with correct jetting. However, like I said, if you jet to AV gas from your correct jetting and fuel set up, YES, you can make a bigger boom and therefore more heat. It's sort of like a dog chasing it's tail (never done it myself) but mostly you gain horsepower while reducing durability. Which way would you like it?

Hey Dog. Is there a way to adjust the seat height on my YZ80? I would like to lower the seat height a little bit.
Thanks Bryan

Pitdog: Actually Bryan, no. You could slide the fork tubes up in the triple clamps and reduce the rear spring preload but that messes up the handling -- big time. If you can just touch your toes with your riding boots on when you stop, you fit the bike fine. Other than that, don't put your feet down.

Hey Pit, I have a 1983 CR125R in really good shape. I wanted to change the water pump shaft because the plastic gear inside the case has hairline cracks in it. Honda parts said the part has been discontinued. Is there any where I can get one from Honda or aftermarket? Thank you for any help

Pitdog: '83 is old but not that old. I'm thinking Honda has redesigned the assembly and now that's how it's sold. You might need to go to the parts counter to explain your dilemma and ask what your repair alternatives are. There are Vintage restoration companies with Web sites on the net. Also look in Cycle News.

Hello Mr. Dog. I have a 99' KX250 and I was thinking of running aviation fuel in my bike since the octane is over 100. I was wondering if this was a good idea? I've asked some dealers and received mixed reviews....Some of them said it would run fine and others said I'd have troubles starting the bike and the AV gas would cause the engine to blow prematurely. What's your opinion on the matter? Thanks for all your help! Dave

Pitdog: Dave, Dave, Dave. Who where you asking at the dealers -- the guy washing the windows? Aviation fuel is made for AIRPLANES! How much air do you think is available for cooling at say 200MPH? Now, how much air is available at 24MPH (average Enduro speed)? Get the picture? Any time you make a bigger boom you have to displace the heat. If you jet for AV gas you'll have some heat all right, more than those little radiators can displace. Ever seen the radiators on a GP500 or Pro Superbike? Pretty tricky. Please send us the picture of your cylinder after you run the AV gas (or the picture of your huge radiators).

What's the real scoop on aftermarket pipes? I've read Eric Gorr's books and he claims the're just copies of OEM pipes. The reason I'm asking is I need more grunt out of my 01 RM125. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help.

Pitdog: Bingo! A studied tuner, like Eric, knows that aftermarket anything does very little -- or even nothing -- to performance on a stock race scoot. Readers, the manufactures are no dummies. They haven't spent the last 40 years developing their product to be the very best it can be so that some aftermarket company can come along and claim an incredible performance advantage by just bolting on their product. It simply just doesn't happen like that but marketing and glitter gives a buyer 'rose colored glasses' so they buy anyway. If you want more grunt you need to change the way the cylinder compresses the charge on your scoot. This means compression AND flow, tuning dilemmas as old as dust. Get yours today for $19.95 or 2 for $29.95. Ha!

Hey Pit. I want more top end on my 2000 XR250R with FMF Power Core silencer, how can I get it? I don't really want to hop up the motor a lot but I was thinking about jump the gearing in the back up like 2 teeth to make it 13-50 instead of 13-48. What's your opinion on this?

Pitdog: No opinion just fact. That's the wrong way. More teeth on the back equals less revolutions for the rear tire but quicker acceleration. Less teeth would be the inverse. You will always give up one for the other.

What air pressure do you recommend for trail riding or a lot of sand like Croom? I am currently running 14 front 15 rear. I guess that is stock as I have never touched it. I ride a 400 4 stroke but it gets pretty wicked in the soft -- soft stuff. I am not sure if it is the brand of tires or the pressure. I don't mind and I do expect it to get a little loose in sugar sand but sometimes I just about eat it making a slight turn when I am not flying or heavy on the throttle. Thanks for any input, Good day

Pitdog: I like to keep my tires right at 12lb front and rear. This pressure allows the tire to flex while resisting rim pinch flats on diverse trails. If your scoot has stock tires they would not be good for sand. At least replace the front for Florida.

Yo Pit Dog. My brother and I have a 1991 KX125. My dad is currently trying to bleed the rear brakes but has had much trouble with this. Any suggestions for him?

Pitdog: Not really. Age has probably caused corrosion or grooves in the cylinders which has damaged the rubber cups. It's time to take them apart to find the wear.

Hey Pit. Could you please give me your honest opinion on a Yamaha XT 250 as a learning bike for my wife. She's been ridding 4 wheelers all her life, just never got into bikes. Thanks, Grant77

Pitdog: I wouldn't start a new rider out on such a behemoth, especially a lady. Keep in mind you will have to stop to pick it up and restart it for her. That may cause lack of confidence and result in a her not wanting to do something she can't do by herself. Think about it.

Pit Dog. When you have to replace the clutch basket on a CR125 can you keep the gears on the back of the old clutch basket, take them off, and put them on the new one? If so, how do you take them off? Thanks

Pitdog: You didn't say what year -- some are different. Most are held on by Allen screws so it's just a matter of transferring the parts. Many aftermarket baskets come with the gear and are a much better product because of a hardening process they go through. Consider the cost of aftermarket against factory when you make that change.

Hey Pit Dog, I have a 1998 RM125. My clutch seems to be acting up. After I rode last week I got my bike out the next day and started riding. Now I have to use 4th gear on a jump I use to use 3rd gear on. I have been told I need to replace my clutch plates. What about the friction plates? I have never done clutch work before. Also when I have the clutch lever all the way pulled in and give it gas the bike starts to take off. I have adjusted the cable but it doesn't help. One last thing, if I stall my bike I should be able to start it without finding neutral shouldn't I? Thanks for all your help, and nice job on your website.

Pitdog: The short answers are, yes, yes, and yes. You must have just started riding to not realize that your clutch is just plain worn out and possibly the basket too. You need to be complete with your repair of the clutch or you will waste money on a patch job. Get pro help. Accolades to the Web Master.

Hey dude...you are a cool bad dog! Great place you have for us no-hopers when it comes to off road bikes. My question: I just bought my son a used Suzuki DS80 (year 2000) and it's in great shape. I just noticed that even though the clutch is disengaged, I really feel the motor trying to make the bike go more than most bikes I have ever experienced. Can you tell me what's up with this? Kinda worries me! Dave in the Dog House.

Pitdog: What you're experiencing is clutch drag. This can be caused by several different things including simple end play adjustment. Read your manual for specs or set the free travel of the lever to no more than 1/4 of an inch. Also lube the cable. I would think a 2000 model would not have worn or damaged clutch components so soon that will cause such a problem. Get pro help if that's the case.

I have a '92 JR50 for my son. It starts 1st kick and runs great. My problem is if it is shut off after being run for awhile, it takes about 100 rapid kicks to get restarted. I recently served jury duty with a fellow juror who has the same exact bike for his son with the same exact problem. We always get this thing going again, but after exhausting several legs. Any suggestions, or is this just an inherent problem with these bikes?

Pitdog:  I suspect one of two things. You must prove them yourself by testing, however. In most cases the fuel is running over into the motor by the way of an uncontrolled fuel level in the bowl. This can be caused by a weak needle and seat or a heavy float. You can prove this diferent ways but I would simply shut off the petcock and open the fuel bowl drain so that no fuel can run past the carb while the motor is off. When you shut the drain and open the petcock it should start right up. If this is not a cure then the ignition is failing with heat soak which opens up a 'can of worms'. Good luck then tell your buddy.

I've heard many times that since I weigh about 200lb I should have a YZ250 rather than a YZ125. When I purchased the bike (98' YZ125) last year, I really didn't know that much about bikes. Now that I do I would probably be better off with a 4 stroke YZ250F, since I do a lot of trail riding in dense woods. I didn't realize you had to ride at Mach 2 to keep a 2-stroke from fouling a plug. My question is this, is a YZ125 structurally weaker than a YZ250 (e.g., bearings, suspension, etc.)? I have plenty of power so the engine isn't a problem, but am I pounding the hell out of it when I land a jump.
The Chemist/Weekend Warrior

Pitdog: 125s work well for riders under 150lb because of the motor's performance. Structurally, the race scoots are nearly the same. You are 'pounding the heck out of it' because the spring set up is way off. You might have similar problems with a 250, just not as bad. If you can deal with the 125s lack of low end power then just get the boingers set up for your weight and riding style. A 250 will be much easier for you to ride, however. Note: Plug fouling is the result of your jetting with your style, not RPM.

I have an 89 KX 125 and I was wondering what is the best kind of mix to run in it and what the ratio should be mixed to 32:1 or 40:1? I also have a fairly large dent in my pipe and I was wondering what is the best way to get it out until I save up enough money to get a new one?

Pitdog: Mix ratios affect jetting and jetting is a result of YOUR testing so my answer is, as always, no answer or read the manual. On the pipe, a large dent will have a significant affect on performance. Pro tuners have a plug and pressure set up so they can hold low air pressure in the pipe while they massage it with heat and hammer. This is a learned art and can be very dangerous for rookies. The repair charges usually run less than $50 which makes it cost effective for your 89. A new pipe will cost as much as the whole scoot is worth.

I am looking for a bike for my wife. She does not have experience riding but she is very interested in doing so with me.  She wants to enjoy the outdoors and riding with me. I wanted some advice on what type of bike to look for. I ride a 4 stroke and I would like her to have the same. She is 5 foot and 100 lbs. I know that will limit my choices to very little but any tips you have would be great. Thanks

Pitdog: It's a good thing you didn't post your E-mail address because offers of money, power, and big houses would be jamming your computer from all over the world, addressed to her! Wake up ladies, this is what we really want (in public of course) when you have a little spare time to share with us. For your saint sir, I suggest the line of new Yamaha TTRs or even the tradition line of Honda XRs. Both manufacturers make varied sizes that insure a perfect fit for the smaller of stature. I believe she would be happy with the 100cc because of the easy starting and capable motor. You might want to equip any choice you make with full-on knobbies right away so she advance quickly with her confidence. Welcome Mrs.

Hey Pit Dog. I really enjoy this forum, it's been a lot of help to me. I am looking at purchasing a KX65 or a KTM 65 for my 9 year old son. He is a good rider and is ready to step up to more power and wants to race. I of course
want to give him the best support I can. What is your opinion of these bikes? I will likely wait for the 2002 models to come out. Thank you for your help. Bill in Jacksonville.

Pitdog: If I could still ride one of those babies I could give you the birds eye view. But like the magazine editors, we can't get much more than 'yep' or 'nope' from the tester 9 year olds. I personally pasted by the 65s because my pups went from 4 strokes to the 2 stroke 80s and 100s. Kawasaki and KTM both make very, very good minis to be sure. An advanced 65cc rider might be a little better on the KTM because of the better boingers but parts cost become more of an issue as time goes by. I'd get the Kawi for the B to C rider and the KTM for the B to A rider.

What do I need to make my 1999 XR250R street legal?

Pitdog: The answer changes from state to state, or country for that matter. Lighting will be the most specific issue which might include a battery and turn signals. A quiet exhaust, steel fuel tank, and DOT tires could be others. Many states require a certified letter of inspection before a Certificate of Origin can be registered as a title. Here's a Web site that presents some guide lines.

Hi Pit Dog. I have a quick question about racing in a "Hare Scramble." I have a mini bike with a Briggs and Stratton engine and no suspension. Will I have a hard time on the course? What class would I be in? I am 13 years old and have been riding since I was 5. My skill is intermediate to advanced. Thank you for your help? Billy Stellzer

Pitdog: I had to answer your question after I picked myself up off the floor and quit laughing hysterically. I don't believe I've ever seen one of those toys on a Peewee course much less the big course. If I was the starter, I would not allow you to start for safety reasons. This happened to a lad about your age who wanted to ride an XR50 in the beginner class at an event, and the XR is somewhat capable. Apparently you have never watched a Hare Scramble with riders your age on the line. Come on out -- with a race bike of course.

Hi PD. I have a 1989 XR250R. I have just replaced the piston rings, new gaskets, etc.. I cannot get the thing started. I have a spark and I'm positive the timing is right. Could you explain how to get the timing right so I can check it? Any other tips would be great. Cheers Mike - Great site

Pitdog: If you're positive the timing is right, why do you need me to explain how to get the timing right? I commend you for being adventurous but there are so many variables about what could be wrong, my assumptions on the fix border on the impossible. With valve timing and sealing, 4 strokes are much more complex in their mechanics of internal combustion than 2 strokes. This means the odds of having success without training on motorcycle mechanics (even though you are certain you put it back the same as it came apart) are so high many riders end up in the same boat you are now in. Get professional hands on help. This means spend MONEY or get the training you need to tackle such a job.

Pit Dog, I have the Goldilocks syndrome, I can't find a scoot that fits. I am currently riding a CR250. I do some trial riding, but most of my riding is done on a motocross track I made for my 7 year old son and 9 year old nephew. The track has some small doubles, a table top, whoops, and one large double. It's clay and is hard as rocks when dry and slick as a greased pig when wet. The course is short and tight and the 250 is a handful. As soon as the power kicks in you're hitting the brakes to turn. Never get it out of second gear. A 125 is too slow on the track and wears you out trying to stay in the powerband, although it is easier to turn. I was thinking about replacing the CR with the new YZ250F but I can't find one to tryout. Does anyone out there have any experience with the new 4-stroke on tight technical tracks? Would I YZ426 be smoother power and easier to handle?

Pitdog: I'd keep what you have unless spending money on the 4 stroke is your passion. Basically, 4 strokes come off corners smoother but have more inertia when you need to turn. The lighter Yamaha is the best compromise yet. If your CR is a late model and in excellent shape, I'd get a flywheel for it.

Salutations to the King of Canines. Am I bummed! At yesterday's Enduro I was really booking down a jeep trail and in one of the low spots I nailed a small stump with my front wheel. It gave me a flat tire. Had to quit :-(. What do you recommend for avoiding flats? What about that green slime stuff? What about heavy duty Moose tubes? Anything else? Yours truly, Flattened in Florida

Pitdog: I did notice a lot of flats at the Straight Arrow. That area is well known for stumps and trash from the other users. The club picks up and marks as much as possible. Most of the top riders I know use the heavy duty tubes for Enduros. The green slime is for sealing tubeless leaks.

Dear Pit Dog: What are the steps you should follow when putting in new piston rings? I just want to know things like, do you need to drain the oil first and etc... and what you should be careful of not doing? Thank you, William

Pitdog: The first step is, take a class in motorcycle mechanics. There are some things in life that you can just go out and do, like paint your house. Major engine repair is not one of them. Don't waste time and money. Get help or get knowledge.

Pitdog, I'm chasing a wiring diagram for a 1996 XR 400. Do you know of a website I could get one from?

Pitdog: Yep. It's called Hondapartscounter.comeon

I have a two-stroke 1973 Suzuki TS400 with 5000 miles, that's been parked since 1985. It started after a 5 or 6 kicks and that's when I remembered why I quit riding it. It's way too loud to ride in the suburbs of Detroit where I live. Everything on it is original stock. The tailpipe from the expansion chamber runs straight and horizontal for six inches and is a smooth and consistent 1.25 inches diameter (OD). Any suggestions on how to quiet the old beast, and more important, where to finds the parts? Thanks for your time -
Jerry

Pitdog: Parts for that scoot can be found where most of them are now, in the junk yard. Have a fabricator weld you up a late model silencer.

Got a 87 KDX200. I am having some trouble getting the fuel/carb/plug dialed in. I have the carb jetting setup per some KDX/Fredette recommendations and the reed specs. I can't get good plug color. The plug sometimes fouls, but mostly has hard carbon buildup and the bike/carb only seems happy when I am above half throttle. I have gone to a hotter plug (some improvement). I went to the first needle clip position (some improvement I think). And recently went from 32:1 to 40:1. The results are not in from the fuel/oil change. Will the 40:1 hurt the old gal (the bike that is). Am I trying the right things? What's next? Besides "Throwing my wallet at it" to coin a Pit Dog phrase. Could be I am not riding the thing hard enough? Help!

Pitdog: Since you seam to be trying several tuning changes to solve your problem, I can see you don't quite understand jetting and combustion temperature. I suspect your last sentence is where your answer lies. 40:1 is simply more gas, which doesn't help your fouling, but doesn't 'hurt the old gal.' Additionally, the age of the scoot would bring up the question of crank seals. A hard carbon build up supports oil intrusion in the mix. You might not be able to use Fredette jetting unless you are a top B rider or better. Crank oil in the mix makes it impossible. Get out the wallet.

Hey Pitdog: I've got a 2000 CR250 which will not start. It's got a good spark, fuel, and good compression. I was told it needed a new top end so I put in a new piston and rings. I noticed that the stock rings were in their grooves when I took it apart. I took the cylinder and head to a mechanic and he said both parts look good so I put the bike back together and it started on the second kick. I broke the piston in and put on about 30 easy miles. When I shut the bike off and it would not start back up again. It won't even roll start. I have cleaned the carb, cleaned the power valves, and checked for loose or corroded wires. I run my oil at 40 to 1. The bike is trail ridden only and I ride it about once a month so it still looks like it is brand new. Could this be an electrical problem or what? Thanks! Mark

Pitdog: Go back to basics. Take a compression reading. Look at the spark plug for fuel. Watch the spark jump a spare plug grounded to the engine, (easier at night). You could have done that and had your answer in the time it took to write me. When you have the basics all in time, it will run.

Pitdog. How many pages are there on your Web site? I got as far as page twelve looking for this question. I am working on a 83 XR80 for my daughter and I am having trouble finding a manual. What do I set the intake and exhaust valves at for this bike? Mrs. Erin Redd, eRKIRE@AOL.COM 

Pitdog: I haven't looked at all the pages in quite a while. The Web master edits the site. You can still order the service manual from Honda or get one ordered in from Clymer or Chilton. You would be real close by setting them at .004. This is not a simple thing to do so check yourself many times as you turn the motor over. I try to stay away from recommending exact specs due to
tuning variables and wear.

Pit Dog. I recently purchased a 01 KX250. Apparently it produces 1 more peak horsepower than 00. However, the dyno charts in the magazine say that it lost almost 3 horsepower. What's the real deal? Thanx, Nelson Lyon nelsonlyon2@hotmail.com  Canada

Pitdog:The real deal is that dynos are not a perfect science just the best we have. Besides that, every motor is a bit different when the sum of its parts -- light off. Tuners know that stock internal combustion engines waste nearly 10% of potential power because they lack perfection. Blue printing a motor is how they reduce that loss. Stock motors are sometimes far from perfect. How's yours?

Pit Dog: I read the article about the guy who replaced the top-end on his RT180. He said it ran fine during break-in but then it started to backfire, sputter, and won't even start anymore. What happened? I have an 1990 RT180 I got 3 years ago. I am just wanting to put in new piston rings because I don't know the last time or if it's ever been done. Will putting in new piston rings be all right? Do I even need to put in new rings? Thank you, Billy

Pitdog:The answer to this is, if you don't already know what you need then don't try it. Replacing the piston ring is a very simple operation, for me. I know what to look for when I inspect for piston condition, cylinder wear, and rod condition.Without some knowledge of that you are WASTING YOUR TIME. There are some things if life that you will be able to just jump right in and do, this is not one of them.

Oh man, am I in need of your help. I ride a 4 stroke and I love it but lately I have been wanting to get a 2 stroke. I am 5 foot 10 and about 208lb so I am a little confused about the cc I need. 125? 250? What is your take? I am experienced with riding but not the 2 strokes. I know that they are instant power etc, but I feel the 125 is not enough for me. Should I fear the 250? Thanks for the help

Pitdog: The only thing you have to fear is fear itself. At 208lb you would crush a 125. If you where a top B or A rider the open class scoot would an attractive option. For other riders, 250s are the best, but going from a comfortable 4 stroke to a 2 stroke will take some adjustment. Primarily, it will force you to get your head over the bars (the proper riding position) when you twist it on. When you get that down you'll discover the instant power is no big deal and your balance on the bike will improve dramatically. Come on, put on that race face.

Hi. I write from Venezuela and I want know if in USA exist this motorcycle, WR250Z(G)? This is my motorcycle and I want some accessories for my cycle . (2) I have one Yamaha TT250 year 1991 and I need some accessories for that cycle, the engine model is 30x. In one shop they tell me that motorcycle doesn´t exist in USA but if you can I need other opinion. This cycle is 4 stroke. Thanks Gustavo tavodp@yahoo.com 

Pitdog: Yes, the WR250 was sold here for many years. It was sort of the leftover 250 MX bike with a lighting coil and different set up. Since you are on the Internet I would think you could search for stuff you are looking for from US suppliers. Also, go to a Yamaha parts dealer site for information on parts for the TT250.

Hello Pit_ I'm David Bybel from up northeast and I just bought a 2000 XR250R, with FMF silencer, FMF 909 bars, and miscellaneous stuff. I was wondering if the Aloop off road kit that turns you XR into a MXer with CR seat tank and shrouds is a good deal? Also, what is you opinion about fork braces and a Scotts stabilizer. I'm only 13 but my dad could put on the hop up kits like the fork brace and weld on mount for the stabilizer. Thanx dude

Pitdog: I think you would need to be a very advanced 13 year old rider to even begin to take advantage of those add-ons. The CR seat and shrouds does make the thing easier to get up over the bars for anyone, however. Use the bike to train and hone your skills for a few years while you save your money for a race bike.

Hey Dog. When is the best time to send a resume to a potential sponsor? I have heard later in the year, around August or September. Any thoughts or ideas on when the best time is. Also, I see all these trailers at the races with all the logo's and names printed all over them, are these people really getting help or are they just "BEING COOL" with all the stickers? The magazines say nobody should run a sticker if your not getting paid or helped. What's your take?

Pitdog: Yes, the sponsors are wrapping up their programs during the last quarter of the year and are starting to plan for next year. That's good time to fill their mailbox. Locally, we don't get much help from sponsors other than dealers helping the top series riders. You really need to be at Loretta Lynn's and have a very good weekend to grab the attention of the national sponsor programs. I've watched some of the faster riders at Bithlo go to Loretta's and finish mid back in the B Class, that's how tough it is. The real trick to getting a sponsor is to spend money on your program. This means you must be at all the important events with your race face on, your bike looking trick, your gear in order, and your hauler spit shined. The deal about putting stickers on your stuff to 'look cool' is not a benefit for getting help with your program. So yes, run only the stickers that support you. Speak often of them and how good their product is. Sponsors like fast but they look for flash.

Hey Dog. I have a 95 RM125 and the whole rear shock rotates about a half inch each way. I know this isn't normal because my new bike only has about a centimeter of play. My question is, what needs to be replaced and how much will it cost. Thanks a lot for your time.

Pitdog: There are bearings at both ends of the shock where it attaches to the frame and the linkage. The lower one wears quickly (mine yearly) and needs replacement often. The seals, shaft, and bearing cost less than $50 but a severely worn one will damage the shock housing or linkage which cost a lot. This is one of the common problems with order scoots.

Pit Dog. I have a 1985 Honda XR200R that has dual carbs. I wanted to know why they put them on that year and the 1984s too? How much should it sell for? The bike is in perfect condition and runs great. Thanks

Pitdog: The carbs are progressive, that is, only one opens until maximum throttle is used. One in perfect condition would be a treasure and could sell for more than it was bought new to the right person. A nice one otherwise should be worth $500-1000. Don't sell a perfect one, keep it in the livingroom.

What are your thoughts on maintaining an O-ring chain? Wire brush too harsh, nylon bristles, or none? For now, I have been using simple green which works wonders and a nylon brush and all is well but I don't know if their is an easier process.

Pitdog: Simple green does remove grease easily if you are taking off chain lube but it's a little harsh for everything else. I rarely brush my chain links unless I'm trying to make it look spiffy. I try not to spray the chain directly, concentrating more on the sprockets. I use WD40 to chase the water out of the rollers and hold down the rust. After the chain dries, I use white lithium grease spray to re-lube. If you notice, white grease is what the chains are manufactured with and it cleans up nicely.

Hi. My question is about the 2 stroke Vs 4 stroke. I am wanting to do some play riding through the woods around my home. I have met up with several people who do this and most of them around here have 2 strokes. I always thought they were more for MX racing vs trail riding. Are 2 strokes versatile like this or are these people just letting off steam during the week in preparation for Hare Scrambles. The bikes seem to handle well but I have read some of your posts and you seem to think that the 4's are more for woods and 2's are for the track. I would appreciate any insight. I am ready to buy now but I don't know what bike will suit my needs more. Thank you

Pitdog: The reason I encourage 4 strokes for trails and 2 strokes for racing is because of their general inherent design. Most 2 strokes are M/X a race bike and most 4 strokes are Enduro ready but NOT ALL. If you plan to ride near houses, a quiet exhaust is a must. M/X bikes are not quiet. Enduro ready generally is. Also, M/X 2 strokes hate to putt around. Plugs foul, cylinders overheat, that sort of thing. You can putt around on most any 4 stroke all day long with no worries. 4 strokes are also very good for beginners because they don't have a severe power band. The down side is they are hard to start at times without the button. Maybe you could ask some of the riders you have met to ride their scoot around a little to see the difference. The dealer might not even start them up for you. Spend wisely.

Hey Pitdog. I just bought fork seals for my 94 CR250 and I could not figure out how to replace them. Could you explain how to or tell me a webpage to go to that already has an explanation?

Pitdog: The procedure is described in a service manual specific for that scoot but you will also need special tools. The only fork service I've ever been able to do by myself is changing the oil or adjusting spring preload. A 94 surely will need new bushings at this time. Don't waste your efforts trying to do it yourself. Get pro help so your forks will work somewhat like new.

Hi Pitdog. Your help is appreciated in Melbourne Australia. I'm in the process of lovin' up my 96 husky CR250 for selling. Everything's real neat now (new piston rings, swing arm bearings, etc.) but I have one head ache. I bought the bike 1 year old with a few mods. It has an FMF pipe and instead of a Mikuni carb a flatslide Keihn carb with an approximately 6 mm of alloy spacer between the barrel and carb manifold. The carb has a 175 main and a 48 pilot. I have 2 questions. 1) What does the spacer do? 2) When it starts (which is difficult) it revs hard for 5-10 seconds. Please help, this may be embarrassing in front of a potential new owner. Thanx, regards Justin

Pitdog: If I tell you what's up, can my club come down and ride? Sounds like a deal. Anyway, the intake spacer has to be a certain length from the reeds so that the flow will be somewhat smooth. The farther away, the smoother but slower. The closer, the choppier but faster. It's a tuner's dilemma. If the scoot revs high at first start up with the choke on, that means the fuel mix is lean with the jetting or choke effect. This can also make it hard to start cold. I like my scoot to idle high at first start up then settle down after about 30 seconds. You may be able to adjust the air screw in some to get your desired cold RPM. Other jetting will be required beyond that. I would also look for trash in the choke circuit. Goodday mate!

I like your answers, some of them are clever. I have a friend who knows who you are and I begged him not to tell me. I have this mental pix I want to keep. You keep me laughing at some of the answers you give. "Throw your wallet at it" is another great clever phrase. HAHA (just wanted you to know this), you have answered several of my questions. Thanks and here is your pat on the back that is so greatly deserved. Thanks for not being a smart ass-know it all too, I hate that. Goodnight PD

Pitdog: Oh my head! The original purpose of this column was for FTR site readers to have a forum about questions on dirtbikes and riding them. My intent has always been to provide some wisdom I have gained in my years as a Pro AMA crew worker and off-road racer along with a little humor to keep it light. The majority of readers comments, like yours, have been positive. Some readers have written in to say I'm full of it. Yea, well, tell that to Paul Harvey. In truth, I'm just an old racer and rider who enjoys helping others like so many people in the FTR family. Thank you FTR site readers.

What can one do while riding in soft sand? I hate it. I always thought it was the weight of my 4 stroke but I ride with a few buddies on 2 stroke 125s and 250s and it is the same. Do I need a better front tire? I have Dunlop 756s now or it is ALWAYS the weight of the bike that determines this? I have tried going fast which is better but I still feel loose like I am gonna eat it.
Thanks for any tips.

Pitdog: Excellent question, and boy does it ever take me back. Twenty some years ago I could not ride straight down a dirt road on a friends dirtbike without falling over. At the time I thought I was a hero on the street but I just couldn't come to grips with the bike wanting to go in all directions in the sand. My friend said, "Your problem is, you're letting the bike control your balance instead of you controlling the bike." Yes, the scoots do weigh more than we do but we have a brain so we can plan ahead. Going faster helps because the dynamics of the wheel rotating helps to keep everything moving straight. Focus more on what is coming up down the trail so your mind can make a plan of attack and let your natural balance handle the minor wiggles. You'll discover that the scoot will come back under you because you are in control.

Pitdog. I have a 1999 YZ125. When I pull in the clutch and kick it into 1st gear it acts just as if I am power shifting it. The clutch is not disengaging at all. What's my problem? Could it be friction and clutch plates? The bike is only 2 years old!

Pitdog: Depending on the hours on the scoot, two years is all some of the major components will last. I've covered this before but again, the clutch basket wears at the slots that the fiber plates fit causing notches. Yamaha clutches are known for early failure. So guess what? Kiss about $500 good bye if you want yours to work like new.

I have a Yamaha RT180. After I replaced the top-end it started 1st kick and ran fine through break-in. Then it started getting harder to start, it's backfiring, and sputtering. Now the thing will not even start. Please help! Thanks, Grant77

Pitdog: I have a real soft spot for readers who say please and thank you but you're going to need more help than I can give you. Why did you replace the top end? Did the piston go bad somehow and leave debris in the motor? If it did, trash would have gotten into the crank bearings. If that happened the bearing are toast causing the rotor to smack the stator which would give your symptom. Other than that, look at the reed plates. You now have wasted money on your project but it's a learning experience so not all is lost. You might just as well throw your wallet at it unless you get pro hands-on advice.

When you tighten your spokes is there a way to tell how tight each one should be?

Pitdog: That's a tough one. I suppose there is a specific torque but I've never read it. A new wheel needs attention several times after each ride. On an older wheel the threads start to seize then it's hard to get at torque. Rim run-out is also a concern. Ask a seasoned rider or tuner for some guidance on that one.

I have a question about gas. I heard it was better to leave unused gas in a steel gas can. Does this preserve the gas longer? I should also mention that this gas is for a two stroke bike, with oil added. I know if you let two stroke gas sit long enough the oil will separate. I never keep unused gas for more than a week. But is it better to leave it in a steel gas can or a plastic one?

Pitdog: Fuel does settle but having it in your hauler while on the way to ride should mix it up. The question about steel or plastic stumps me like 'paper or plastic' at the Supermarket. I suppose there is a scientific or safety reason for one or the other but I don't know it. My containers have been plastic forever with no problems.

Pit Dog. I was riding my 99 XR200 and everything was fine. When I got back I just happened to look at the front sprocket and I had only one of the tooth left. What could cause that to happen in that amount of time? By the way the chain had correct tension and it was the stock sproket. Thanks for your time.

Pitdog: Welcome to the world of worn parts on your dirtbike. What you where not watching for was the condition of the sprocket when you serviced you scoot. I'm sure the teeth where wearing to points and eventually snapped off on that ride. My chain and sprockets last just one season and I buy the best stuff out there. The Honda stockers are good for a half a season if your lucky.

Dear Big Dog. My 2000 YZ125 spits a lot of black goo (oil ?) on the back of my scoot. The plug looks good. Is this a major concern? Is it due to me not keeping the rpm's up? Does this indicate anything serious?

Pitdog: Yes if you putt around, the premix oil will not burn off and will drool out the silencer. If you're just learning to ride a race bike try using a burst of full throttle when there is a straight. This will clear out the motor and exhaust while acclimating you to what the bike will do. The only thing the oil mess does to the performance is that the packing in the silencer will gum up along with the cylinder power valves sooner than normal.

Hey Pitdog. I recently bought a new race bike and the manual says to change the fork oil every 6 hours. I changed it on my old bike about every 15 hours and I never had a problem. My friends also tell me that this is not necessary. Is changing your fork oil every 6 hours really necessary?

Pitdog: I believe what the factory is trying to do is to get us to reduce the amount of bushing wear inside the forks. This of course can be accomplished by changing contaminated oil. I change my fork and shock oil once a season (I'm bad) which could be 75 hours. We check for wear and re-bush as necessary. You could be like the picture of the guy washing his bike in the magazine while his buddy rides by, our you could get out there and ride like the rest of us and let wear take it's course like everything else. You decide.

Steering stabilizers, Hot or Not? I ride a 4 stroke, in the woods for fun but I have heard these things are worth the investment. I wanted to know what you thought of them. I am looking at a Scotts Stabilizer. I appreciate any info

Pitdog: Worth the investment? I always thought that if I spent $400 on a damper I might want to spend another $150 and get an Ohlins shock instead. Now the shocks are $650 and the dampers are going up too. I've never purchased either of them but one scoot I bought used had an Ohlins. The difference between the stock shock and the Ohlins was incredible. The point is, every time I think about how much better the steering would be with a damper, I find I want the shock more. The last Enduro was a perfect type of event for discovering weaknesses in my setup. The only weakness I found was in my shoulders from the pounding of the trenched sections. Would a damper help that? I knew it would have helped on those 75 MPH road sections as I fought off the head shake. Now I think I want the Scotts damper but then again the Ohlins....

I have a '99 YZ400F that probably needs steering head bearings replaced. Is it a difficult job? What are the tips you can offer for this project? Thanks.

Pitdog: If you have never replaced pressed-in bearing races before, get some help that has. It's not that hard of a job but you need to be -- I'll just say clever. Now would be a good time to inspect all the other bearings that need service like the head bearings. A service manual would be a good investment for those procedures.

I ride a completely stock 00 YZ250. The other day I was talking with one of my racing buds mechanics and he told me that I could increase the bottom end power of my bike by cutting 3 to 4 inches off of my silencer. I was just wondering if this would be true. Thanks for your comments!!

Pitdog: Fine tuning the silencer length is a tricky endeavor. Some performance MX silencers are very short in their design so the hit will come earlier. Start straight speed and over-rev are sacrificed, however. Just like cylinder porting, cutting the silencer is a fine art and should be done with complete knowledge of internal motor tuning specs. Ask the tuner how much performance could be expected and what the drawbacks are for a stock motor.

Sir Dog. I have a 2000 YZ125. I am in need of a spark arrester. Do you have any general info. on them? Must I re jet? Or make any other adjustments? My scoot is stock. Thanks

Pitdog: If this dry weather keeps up there will be a run on them. Your friendly motorcycle parts counter will have a catalog on Sparkys for your scoot. Mine just clamps on the rear of my silencer but some are a complete replacement. General jetting is not affected if you are spot on. Main jetting will be slightly richer which is good for Enduro road sections.

Yo Pitdog. I have a 1995 KDX200 that I like it a lot but I'm kind of scared of it because once in a while the throttle will stick wide open! It ain't a fun ride. I just pull in the clutch and hit the kill. But my question is why? I lubed the cable and made sure it is routed good but it still happened. It seems to happen when I land a jump or nail a root with the back end. Thank you for your time.

Pitdog: Like everything else on the scoot, sand wears out all the stuff it gets into. The throttle housing or even the carb slide may be so worn that they bind instead of backing off. Also look for the needle retainer and spring to be installed correctly in the slide.

Hi, I'm a 13 year old kid who has a 96 KX100. My dad and I don't know a lot about dirtbikes, but I go to tracks and learn as I go. Do you know how to adjust the shocks, and what's the difference with the jetting? How do you change it? Oh yeah, I ride a Supercross-style hard clay track. What's the best settings??

Pitdog: Your best bet is to get an owners manual and maybe a service manual that you can look in for hints on tuning. All that stuff is in there and more on how to service your scoot. You can't tune by the seat of your pants especially if you're just a beginner. Read 'em.

Hey DOG. How can those new 4-stroke 250s race and beat the 2-strokes?????? I thought that they were slow and heavy and ain't supposed to handle that well. I was at the last race at Osteen and there was somebody just smoking on one of those Yamaha 250 4 stroke things. I think it was a Super Senior A rider and he just hammered through this nasty section of whoops and the thing just went. Does it take a special rider to ride a 4 stroke or can anybody do it. I ride in the C 250 class, could I do good on a 4 stroke in that class? What do I need to do, I am ready for a new bike? Help me dog !!

Pitdog: Anybody who races FTR Hares knows who that rider is. I'm a slightly older A rider with a faster 2 stroke and I can't hold a candle to him. A riders don't depend on just their scoot to be fast. They depend on their wisdom, strength, preparation, and their scoot as a package. Most C riders struggle because of their wisdom in an event. They appear fast but they fall a lot and pick the wrong lines. Think about where you make the most mistakes or have the biggest problem. Work on what's holding you back and focus on being consistent. Get a new scoot if it's a big problem. A 4 stroke will cost you time if you fall a lot because they are harder to restart.

My little cousin has the worst luck. He just put new rings in his 89' YZ 80 and after 2 hours the engine died. It's not seized, the plug is sparking, and gas is flowing (at least we can smell it). My guts tell me it's the carb. His bike is stock all around, but has no silencer. Even before it fell off and got lost (long story) the bike ran fine with no packing at all. Can you tell me what jets he should be running, and what/how to set them? He tells me there is no way to adjust them in his carb (it's stock as well), just take
them out and put them in. I have been told you can turn them in and out? Please help!

Pitdog: This time that felling in your gut is from all that left over Easter candy you've be eating. An 89 anything cylinder would be so worn that 2 hours run time would be a gift. The only good you guys are doing is to teach yourself something about taking things apart and putting them back together. You haven't developed the logic yet to keep that 'Rat bike' going. Sure jets can be screwed in and out but that is not what made it die all of the sudden. Get someone involved that knows something about tuning a scoot so you'll quit wasting your time. And throw the rest of that candy out!

I currently ride a 97 KX125 once a week. I usually play and trail ride. I got the bike last July. I'm 16, 5'5", and 130 lbs. I want to get a 250 but I've never ridden a 250 before. I just want a 250 because my 125 is way to slow for my play ridding. My friends ride 250s and Banshees and it's hard to keep up. I have $2000 to spend and was looking towards a 96 CR250. I heard the're one of the best bike ever made. Do you know any info about a 96 CR250 or recommend what kind of bike I should get? I'm pretty small but would like a light powerful, reliable used 250. I will not buy a Suzuki! Oh yeah, I'm going to start racing my 125 this July. Will be riding the 250 be good training for the 125? Thanks

Pitdog: The 96 CRs were one of the best in that year but how good will it be now is the question. If it has been a race bike major components will be worn. How much grief does your 97 give you? Two older race bikes would be cool but the cost to keep them going will be huge. Why don't you try a friends 250 just to see the difference? You're small enough to take advantage of a 125. Holding down a 250 will be like riding a wild bronc. Training on a 250 will not help with the advantages a 125 will give to you in a race. Train on your Mountain Bike.

Hey there Pitdog. I ride a 00 YZ250 and have been using Twin Air foam air filters. I ride in a lot of loose sand and some always seems to flow into the carb boot. I clean my filters every ride, always use lot's of grease on the outer ring, and use plenty of chainsaw bar oil on my filters. I have tried some of the products on the market that are made to spray on the filters but I have had worse luck yet!!! I was just wondering if you had any suggestions.

Pitdog: I never liked the spray oils either but bar oil! Regular foam filter oil that you pour on then squeeze out is the best. I haven't used lip grease in several years because the modern scoots have a larger sealing area than the old days and the filter just fits better. The trick is to get all the old oil and dirt out of the filter before you re-oil and put it back in. First clean the filter in a bath of mineral sprits to cut the oil. Then use a heavy detergent with water, rinsing and squeezing out, re-soaping again to rinse. I use a rose sprayer with laundry detergent cut with half water for the whole bike. You can't get the soap to clean out the sand without cutting the oil out first, and the soap will not cut the oil by itself. You must use both. After you have squeezed out the water, pour a ring of oil on the seal area, sides, and make a smiley face on top. Knead the filter then squeeze out the rest of the oil. You have then done the best you can to protect you motor. By the way, clean your air box before you take the filter out while you are cleaning the bike and wipe out all that grease forever.

For more low end on a 4 stroke do you drop one in the front or add to the rear? I hear lowering the front one tooth will show a great improvement. I want to get a little better low end. I love to throw the dirt around but a 2 smoke is not my gig :( Thanks Sir Dog!

Pitdog: Let's say you have a 14-48 gear set. That's a ratio of 3.43:1. If you go 13-48 it would be 3.69:1. If you go 14-49 it would be 3.50:1. 14-50 makes it 3.57:1 and 14-51 would be 3.64:1. So you see 1 off the front is close to 3 on the back. The front is a lot less money but makes a bigger difference with one tooth change. Also, a 3 larger rear gear rubs the guides kind of wrong. Increasing the ratio does make the motor pull out quicker but the top end might be less and you have to shift more often. Big ratio changes also effect load on the motor which might mean different jetting. Savvy riders keep a lower front in their gear for a super tight course because it's easy to change. You might start there.

Yo Dawg. Just a bit of info for the guys in the market for a four stroke dirt bike. I love my Yamaha YZ250. After riding this weekend with guys on the 426 I would never buy one. It seemed like every time they stalled or took a rest it took forever to restart the bike. After they finally got it started they needed another 10 minute break. By this time all the guys on the two strokes were refreshed and long gone down the trail.

Pitdog: Yes, but if those riders had the button they would have been long gone on you. This is what I think Yamaha will do when they get the cost and weight deal worked out. I rode a Husaburg 400 that was sweet with the button but I couldn't lift the thing on a center stand. I'll keep my 2 stroke too.

Do you recommend someone in the Central Florida area (close to Orlando) for suspension work? I would like to have mine done but I cant seem to get any info. Thanks a lot

Pitdog: My tuner is ready to clobber me for giving out his phone number. Seams that a lot of riders just want to talk about their problem instead of having something done. You could use Performance Engineering in south Orlando (407.856.8545), where you get to talk to a counter person while the real brains hide in the back. Be honest about what kind of rider you are and what you want the scoot to do.

Is there a way to keep nicks and scratches on graphics from spreading.

Pitdog: Sure, don't ride and become a couch potato, or buy new plastic and graphics after every ride! My 96 has original plastic and graphics and certainly looks it. I couldn't care less. Function is what I like, not fashion. Do you think the top riders have some sort of secret material or process that keeps their scoot looking tight? Nope. They have fenders and other plastic hanging in their shop with the proper stickers on, ready to go. Sponsors insist that their product or service be represented in the best possible way. It's a money thing. Riders somewhere between me and them use clear plastic sheets over their graphics carefully trimmed and set with a heat gun for a smooth lay over. This of course doesn't last forever and looks kind of nappy when the clear starts to dull out and pull loose. For stopping a rip or loose section, use a dot of super glue. If you want to really be impressive, work on your riding style, then your sponsors will supply the fashion.

Hey Pitdog. Can you put an aftermarket silencer on a stock pipe or a stock silencer on an aftermarket pipe? If so do you gain any performance this way?

Pitdog: Most aftermarket exhaust parts fit like stockers. The exhaust manufacturer is your only true source on the question. Don't look for big gains on a M/X 2 stroke. The quiet 4 strokes can lose a lot of weight with aftermarket stuff and pick up some top end but they get louder and it changes the jetting a lot.

How long does it take to break in the suspension and motor on a new 125 Motocross bike?

Pitdog: I would ride the motor in with three 20 minutes motos at an extremely light pace, stopping between sets to let the motor cool to the touch, look at the plug, and check for loose parts. I would still not hammer it down a straight for several hours until I was sure of the jetting. The boingers take a lot longer depending on your riding style. Faster riders get off on a new scoot because of the slow action of the new suspension. Slower riders think it's too jittery. It ends too quickly for fast guys but never ends for slower guys.

What are your thoughts on oil for 4 stroke bikes? I have heard that the car oils are fine for scoots but of course the dealers say "No" that is wrong. I would appreciate your opinion on this matter. Thanks

Pitdog: I'll refer you to an excellent article on this Web site titled Tech Article-Part 3. It is full of facts and my opinion is just that.

Can you tell me the best way to lower a bike so that I can touch the ground a little more. I was told to have it done by a professional suspension guy or I could shave some seat foam. I am 5 foot 9 and I tippie toe on my bike, my friends XR400, and his YZ426. Thanks for ANY input on this matter. I really don't know the cost to get this done for me but I don't have a lot of money to waste if I can do something a little cheaper. 3/4"-1.0" would make a HUGE difference.

Pitdog: You didn't say what scoot but I suspect it's a race bike. My question in this answer is, why do you want be closer to the ground? I'm also 5'9" and I add a spacer to the front to make it stand up more. If you are just starting out on a race bike, you might not be feeling secure about balancing at a stop. This I understand. Race bikes are tall because they can take the abuse an obstacle gives. The closer you are to the ground, at speed, the bigger chance you take on hurting something, like your foot. Do you remember the scene in "On any Sunday" where the 60s bikes are on an off-road track? The riders feet are flying off the pegs causing them to get out of control. On those old bikes we could sit with our feet flat. Thank goodness the suspension guys said "hey, I can fix that." For you, the front is not easy to change. The rear you could just turn down the spring preload for less height. That, however, will screw up the designed handling making it even harder to ride correctly. What you really need is the confidence to go slow without putting your foot down. I made mine enormously better by riding my Mountain Bike off-road for practice. Work on keeping your feet up not down, you'll be instantly faster.

PIT DOG _ I think that your service advice is the best. My name is Dave Bybel and I recently bought a 2000 XR250R. I am 13 years old weighing 160 pounds and 5'10". Do you think that I would be competitive just based on bike and size? I have put on a Vortip Muffler insert in the stock exhaust and added hand guards and skid plate. Thank you so much Pit. I think you should get paid for doing this service if you don't already. You are a very smart person. Hey, I was wondering are you a dude or a chick? Thanks again. l8er

Pitdog: Oh my head! I have never said who I am in this column but if you've been around long enough in FTR racing you would know from the hints I drop. The XR250 is a great bike for fun but it needs a little help for racing. You've done some proper mods for getting started, and you're big enough to ride the wheels off it. I'd sort of wait and see where it feels lacking to you. Suspension mods would be my next concern. Focus on keeping your speed up and riding smooth. This will make you a better rider instead of hot rodding the motor and trying to deal with the limitations that creates.

I have a Yamaha Blaster. Just recently I added a Fatty pipe and a Power Core 2 silencer. I was wondering if FMF reeds would improve the power or speed at all. Thanks!

Pitdog: Reeds generally come in two designs. The first design would have a light flex ratio giving more flow at higher revs but less sealing at low. The second would have a better sealing function but less flow at higher revs. Like most mods you give up something to gain on another. For you it will be a test of, is there anything more to gain in the rev range compared to what you lose.

Hey Pit. I have a 01 KX125 with an FMF pipe and silencer. I am not at all impressed. It feels slow compared to my friends stock RM125. Are there any cheap mods I can put on it to give it more power?

Pitdog: You might start with some stuff you already have, like your stock pipe. Test with it on and read the plug. Jetting is also extremely important for 125s. Pilot and clip settings can make a huge difference for the low end. How many hours are on each scoot? His could simply have a fresher bore.

Hi there. I am a parent of a seven year old who has been riding his XR 80 for several months. He has become very confident with racing/jumping at home since we live in a very rural area in Florida, and rides daily. What is our next step for racing or competition at his age and in this area? Thanks

Pitdog: Supercross, at least that's what he would say. Kids up to 8 years can ride in the PeeWee class at our Hare Scrambles but 50cc is the maximum displacement. The Mini 65's ride pretty much the same course as the adults when they are at least 8 years. This is not easy for them and most of them are already veteran racers out of PeeWee. The XR80 is not a race bike and would be a handful on the big track. You're best bet would be to get him a 50cc race bike so he can finish up his years in PeeWee and then move up. Keep the XR for fun riding around the house because it's quiet and doesn't need a lot of attention like the race bikes. Maybe you could come out to our next event and watch the PeeWee's run on Saturday evening, talk to some of the parents and riders, and get a feel for what it cost and what's the best approach. The flyer is on this site.

Would running a 103 octane gas like what is found in gas stations around race car tracks (New Symrna, Bithlo, etc) make a big performance difference on a four stroke such as the WR250F, and/or would it have any harmful effects? Is there a real advantage compared to running 93 octane pump gas? This is of course with a stock motor, maybe just with an air filter and exhaust mods.
Thanks

Pitdog: Higher octane fuel is a heat control factor, like a larger radiatior. The higher octane that is run, the more control you will have on combustion temperature. This means you can run leaner jetting without destroying the piston. In an internal combustion engine heat is energy, energy is horsepower. When more of the fuel/air ratio is burned in combustion, more heat is generated. Too much fuel or octane cools the charge, no heat. When the heat gets a little out of control failure occurs. Round-d-Round car guys can have a $500 weekend with fuel and tires. How much do you want to spend?

Hi Pit Dog. What is the normal color for used tranny oil? I've been changing my oil every three runs. (~ 5 hours run time). The oil is coming out coffee colored. No antifreeze is missing from the radiator and most of the oil drains out when I change it. The reason I ask is, I'm running my carb on the lean side yet my plug still gets wet/fouled after three runs, (~ 5 hours). I'm riding it on the mellow side, but not being that mellow. I'm just wondering if I could somehow be getting tranny oil in the cylinder? I do realize that's possible on a ten year old YZ250, even though the top end was professionally rebuilt 2 years ago. Any suggestions? Thanks again! Jimmy G.
P.S. The bike runs like a top otherwise, starts/runs on 2 kicks!

Pitdog: Cool use of the (~) sign for approximate.
Coffee colored gear oil tells me it has steel clutch plates. With aluminum plates is would be gray. Cylinder blow-by could dilute the gear oil, this being caused by piston to cylinder clearance. Did the pro builder tell you what the assembly clearance was? Also, if the crank bearings and seals have more than say 50 - 100 hours on them, failure to run straight and seal there could be expected. Starting right up tells me the jetting is very good but a wet plug indicates gear oil intrusion to the combustion chamber. Putting around also fouls the plug on a race bike, however. Bottom line, more money-more money.

Hi Dog. I often look for parts on E-bay. I came across a part called a Roost Boost for a 93 KX80. Do you know if this part actually help to increase power for this bike. The picture shown had some wires on it and I guess it ties into the ignition system. Any answers on how this part works?

Pitdog: Yes it does tie to the ignition box. From what I understand, they increase the spark power through capacitive discharge. This would increase power for cylinders that have high turbulence -- like a turbo or large intake motor. I'm thinking it won't have much affect on your 80. But if you hang a turbo.....

I have a 90 RM250. I have trouble starting it first thing in the morning, the rest of the day it is fine. When I pull the plug after several kicks it is wet, (without choke). It seems when the bike sits fuel leaks past the needle. The mill is fresh with plenty of compression. Thanks (RUBBER LEG)

Pitdog: Believe it or not fuel jets wear out, especially the pilot. A correct jetting set up would require less than 6 kicks cold, then the motor should high idle with the choke on for up to 30 seconds. I would think that you turn the fuel petcock off when transporting or storing your scoot making the fuel needle issue moot. Older parts on the scoot also contribute to such problems like the crank seals and reed plates so make sure they are up to speed.

Pit Dog, This is in response to the guy who had a question about keeping his fork springs compressed while his bike is loaded in a pickup. My friends and I use a piece of 4X4 or fence post cut about 1/2 inch shorter than the distance between the tire and inside of the fender. Just place the wood between the fork tubes and tighten her down. The bike stays nicely secured and there's no stress on the springs.

Pitdog: I still have one of those aluminum thingys that you could buy to do the same thing. I didn't like the way the bike swayed back and forth while I watched in the mirror. I don't know it was because of the additional distance in height, the lack of spring action from the forks, or my paranoia. Good suggestion nevertheless.

Dog. I am having my cylinder re-sleeved. After I get it back will I have to bore it before I put it back on my bike?

Pitdog: In most cases the repair company sets the bore up to a factory A size. This means you should need an A piston from the parts store to reassemble. I would think the cylinder would be clean and ready to assemble. It is important to know what the bore size is before purchasing the piston, however. If they don't tell you have it measured.

Hello Pit Dog.  Here is my question.  If the Daytona Dirt Riders are a member club and they put on the Alligator Enduro, why is the Alligator SETRA sanctioned and not FTR sanctioned? Thanks! Tomer

Pitdog: This is just my view DDR and may not be the reason at all. The Alligator has become an international event because so many riders are in Daytona for Bike Week. In order to keep rider numbers to a manageable level, the cut off is 500. That's a huge number for any Enduro. Since Florida is the center for the FTR Enduro series, DDR could expect nearly 200 FTR riders trying to sign up for the event because it would be important to their overall. I'm sure DDR doesn't want the pressure of trying to accommodate FTR while closing the door on out of State and Country riders that come to Bike Week. I''ll bet the number of SETRA only riders hovers around 100 year to year. ( The Florida terrain is a special challenge compared to the other SETRA events). The other numbers are made up of FTR guys that also ride SETRA plus National and World guys here just for the fun. Let us not forget, DDR also puts on a FTR Enduro at the end of the season too. This event is open to all series riders plus Hare and M/X riders because a sparky is the only tech requirement. Also, there are FTR clubs that don't even put on an Enduro, just
Hares. Because it is so difficult for a club to make any money on an Enduro, except the Alligator, I commend DDR.

I have a nine year old that has never ridden and I am looking at getting the 2001 Honda XR70. What is you opinion of the bike?  Thanks

Pitdog: For a beginner and trail riding you can't make a better choice. But it's like their shoes, they grow out of them like the next day it seems. Fortunately, little will be lost in trade value compared to a race bike. That way you can get an XR for yourself and go too!

Hey Pit Dog. I am the proud owner of a 01 YZ125. I am 5'9" 145lbs.  My suspension is completely broken in and I was wondering what I should set my compression and rebound settings for the forks and shock? My style of riding is mostly Motocross and a little Supercross. Please help me on my set up.

Pitdog: It would seam to me that if you are trying to qualify for a Supercross you would already have a pro tuner. But anyway, the stock settings should be very close for you. If you have no clue on what you want it to do, get an advanced rider or tuner to watch you make laps on the course. Their opinion of what looks wrong should move you in the right direction of suspension tuning.

Re-jetting? I have a stock 4 stroke and I was told that if I re-jet I will see a BIG improvement? Is it worth my time? I would love some extra power. I was just gonna remove the snorkel but they said not to unless you re-jet. Thanks for your time

Pitdog: Opening the intake or the exhaust will make an improvement in power, mostly in mid to upper rev range. Re-jetting is usually necessary to correct a lean condition. What is lost, however, is the smooth flow of the intake mix at low revs. On a stocker, this makes the scoot harder to ride on tight trails and may make it harder to start. Stock performance 4 strokes, like the new Yamaha 250, run excellent on top but are not as forgiving down low. Removing the intake snorkel is where I would start along with re-jetting. A quiet performance silencer would be a good but more costly investment. BIG change, not.

Pit, wass up? I have a tip for all the XR riders, ( mainly the XR200 and up). If you want an inexpensive way to get some more ponies for your machine, go to your local hardware store and purchase some flexible plastic tubing at about one inch diameter. Next you'll need 10 zip ties, preferably red or white to match your bike. Now you'll have to cut two pieces of the plastic tubing that would fit from under your gas tank to the sides of the airbox. Now drill one inch holes on both sides of the airbox. Finally mount the tubing under the gas tank, run it to the air box, and stick it in the hole you just drilled. For the last part, use the zip ties and mount the tubing to the frame. This will give greater airflow which means more ponies. You may have to re-jet your bike due to the increased air flow. Also, if you are a 'duner', you can use an old oil filter to mount on the top to keep the sand out. This has worked for my 13 year old son with his XR400R. Yeah I know it sounds crazy but he throws it around, he's a big kid.

Pitdog: Airbox flow does make a difference on larger 4 strokes. What's better than all that extra plumbing is to purchase the 1 inch filter disc that motorcycle parts store sell in packs of six. The filters are self contained in a housing and snap right in the hole drilled in the airbox. I had 'em on my DR years ago.

Pitdog. Will an aftermarket pipe give my XR250 better performance? How much? If not, what will it do? Would pulling the plug on the stock pipe make it faster and have better performance? Thanks.

Pitdog: I've never been involved in a scientific test of exhaust system performance but I can tell you this, louder is not always faster. In most cases a larger or less restrictive exhaust will allow a motor to rev to it's RPM limit sooner. This change generally comes from the mid to upper rev range. Because exhaust back pressure plays such an important roll in low RPM performance, a larger or more open exhaust DECREASES low end power. On road race 4 strokes we found that a longer silencer with an open chamber was the best combination for low and high end performance. That's when a rule was adopted limiting exhaust length to the back of the tire. Do you want such a monster on your off-road scoot? Your best choice would be an after market silencer for dual sport riding because it is still somewhat quiet as well as lighter. Pulling the baffle on a stock pipe is loud, would require re-jetting, and weighs almost the same.

I'm trying to fix a friends sons Honda XR80r dirtbike. They brought it to me not running. The carb was apart and missing the jets. I cleaned the carb, ordered new jets, and adjusted everything to manufactures specs. Cleaned the air filter element, made sure fuel flow to the carb was good, put in new gas, adjusted the valves, checked engine compression, (Good), checked for a good spark, and installed a new sparkplug. It runs good on the bottom end but will not come up on the main jet no matter how I adjust the needle. It wants to backfire thru the carb as the RPMs increase and at high RPMs it backfires thru the exhaust. Sometimes it runs OK without all the popping then it acts like it is running out of fuel and will hardly run. I have adjusted the float to increase or decrease fuel level in the bowl. I have had the needle clip step in every position. I don't know what else to do. Could there be an ignition problem? I I have tried everything that I know of with the carb. I'm at a total loss at this point and need some advise. Thank you, Bruce

Pitdog: You didn't say what year but it must be not very new. The first thing I would check is the fuel tank and petcock. They need to be perfectly clean. Also, the seal in the petcock could be deformed. Try running it on another feed source of fuel when it acts up. Other than that, I'd take the cylinder head off and have the springs checked and valves refit.

Hey Pit Dog. I have 01 YZ250 that runs great. After the first ride the mud flap somehow got creased and now gets caught up in the rear tire. My friend says he has replaced his mud-flap on his new Yamaha 3 times already. The mud-flap is a cheap thin plastic. Do you know an aftermarket company that makes a better one? Or do you have any great old ideas for this problem?

Pitdog: The one on my KX did the same thing. I put a sheet metal screw through it into the air box about an inch or two below the retaining bolts to keep it from flapping into the tire. Looks kind of geeky but it's been like that for 5 years now. Don't know another solution.

If money was no object and you weighed 250 pounds, what bike would you buy to ride Enduros?

Pitdog: Oh boy. Let's leave suspension tuning out of the picture because all of them will need help for that rider weight. Enduro competition is like nothing else in the way it wears you out. A heavy scoot or an explosive motor are not what you want as the miles wind down. Most of the A riders run a 2 stroke 250 because of the light weight and smooth power that is instantly available. A scoot that is Enduro ready right out of the box would be the KTM. I still prefer the KX250 because of the consistent design and ease of obtaining replacement parts. The stock setup is tunable for off-road racing but lots of stuff has to be upgraded like the bars, silencer, chain, gearing, flywheel, tires, guards, and show lights. The KTM might be a better deal in stock form but I still like the parts counter at Kawasaki.

Big Dog. Check out the plug pictures. Maybe this will help your other readers. http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html   Rob/Naples

Pitdog: Good tip. Eric's site is an excellent source for motor tuning. All my plugs look like his preferred picture of course. The others are fairly extreme.

Do you think after-market skid-plates are worth the extra dough for Croom riders? I hear a lot of talk about them but I thought most bikes have adequate protection? Your thoughts?

Pitdog: I have never run a skid-plate. MX riders like them because the bike doesn't dig in as hard when the frame touches. Woods racers like the ones with the ears that protect the brake and shift levers from snags. Crooms is pretty much cleared of snags.

Advice on loading your bike in the back of a truck. I have heard that this will damage your fork seals? Is this true? I do this to my bike and now I am worried. I don't know what is worse, making the straps too tight or just leaving the bike like that for a long time. I make them tight but they are only up there for a 70 mile drive is this OK. Got any advice for truck owners on how to tie the bikes down? Tire shoe? Thanks d0G

Pitdog: I've addressed this question before. I believe you mean spring stress. The most important thing is to not let the scoot get loose. Worry about other things like staying out riding too long. Bike shoes cost money that buys more fuel.

Need help!!!. Just bought a 95 YZ 125. Seems to smoke a lot. Black oil deposit's and sparks are coming out of the exhaust and it will not idle.

Pitdog: Sounds like you bought an old scoot with an old problem. Better get some old pro tuner help.

Do you think that Fork Guards or Front disc guards are important for the average trail rider? I do nothing major just ride for fun. I hear a lot of talk about those two things and skidplates? Wanted to know what you thought.
Thanks for the assistance :)

Pitdog: Fork guards are nice because they protect the sliders from dings that cause seal failure. I run a disc gaurd to protect my computer pick-up. Also, I've never run a skid plate. As you get to be a better rider you pick better lines to keep up speed, protect yourself, and your equipment. I would say, if you tend to smack into stuff now, put the gear on yourself and the scoot. If not, then don't.

Pit Dog. Hi, I have a 1999 Husqavarna WR 250. I was wondering if anyone makes an electric start or compression release for it because it is harder to kick over than my friends YZ426F?

Pitdog: I doubt it, but I do know where you can buy a bag of cheese burgers and a bigger boot.

Dog. I have a 95 XR250. Is there a way to stiffen the shock and forks? Right now they are real soft. Also, the front rotor is a little bent. Do you suggest I try to straighten it out myself? Thanks

Pitdog: In the owners manual there is a section on suspension. In the manual you will find all kinds of good stuff on how to adjust your bike. Without one you will be lost on how to service and adjust your bike. Rotate the wheel while looking at the run-out of the rotor to the brake. Mark the rotor at the highest point of run out. I use a 2x2 that's like a foot long and a mallet to bump the high spot. Tap it lightly because it doesn't take much to bend the rotor and keep checking the high spot movement. Work it slowly until the rotor spins straight in the brake.

Hi Dog. My question is regarding re-jetting, etc. Is this something that needs to be done, or should be done, for the casual rider? I am not exactly sure what it means. My bike is all stock and I just like to play and trail ride. Should I just leave it alone? Sometimes it stalls when I am holding the clutch in and coasting. Dunno why but I thought I would ask about the carb/jet stuff. Also, do you know where I can read about jetting and other related items?

Pitdog: You didn't say what type of bike so I'll assume we are talking about a race bike. Yes, you must have your jetting done for your riding style, climate, fuel, and mojo factors. Trail bikes aren't nearly as sensitive and are usually OK from the factory. If you don't have an owners manual, get one. There's a lot of great hints in them especially for that bike and jetting is covered too.

Pitdog, I have two questions for you. I know if your jetting is to lean you could seize your piston but could you cause any damage to your engine, (except fouling plugs), if you run it to rich? Also what steps do you take to perform a plug reading? Thanks for your time

Pitdog: Well, the only thing that comes to mind is filling the silencer packing with spludge and possibly washing out the ring seal surface of the cylinder wall. Read down for more hints on jetting and plug reading

How important is the first service on a newer bike? I was all ready to change the oil, filter, and do all the other stuff on my checklist, but here is where I ran into a brick wall. It says the valves need to be checked or readjusted. :( I guess I need to take this to the dealer and get nailed with the labor charge? I wanted to know your opinion since you are the TOP DAWG!! Thanks

Pitdog: Oh no! You bought a tricky 4 stroke and now you don't want to follow what's in the owners manual? Any service is important on a race bike, that's what you have you know. I've heard the valves change quickly on the new 4 strokes. Better give yours the proper service unless you new a new boat anchor.

Were the 1996-1998 YZ250s good bikes? I am looking to buy a used YZ250 in the '96 to '98 range. I am 16 and have been riding a 1990 RT180. Do you think a YZ250 will be a good jump from this recent bike?

Pitdog: Of course they were good bikes, when they were new. Dirt bikes don't last very long in regular use. That's why the prices falls so much so soon. The only way to get an idea of it's remaining life is to have it completely inspected by a pro, and that's not a guaranty of failures. Those failures can be huge. Also, the difference between a RT and a YZ will be huge. Are you ready for one of the fastest bikes in world class competition?

Yo Pit Dog. I just bought a spanking new 2001 YZ250. The bike was properly broken in. I want to run the best 2-stroke oil in the bike. Of course the dealership recommends Yamalube but some of my sources say that Yamalube will gum up the engine over time due to their own experiences. Other friends say to run Bel-Ray H1-R. What would be the best oil to run in the bike that I could stick with?

Pitdog: Yamalube has always been a good product, and it has a good price. I have never been a Bel-Ray Products fan. For better than 20 years I have used the Champion oil (old Dura Lube) at 50:1. Now a little news for you, all 2 stroke motors gum up their power valves. Cleaning them on the 20 hour piston inspection is standard procedure for top performance. Ask your friends who is the ghost that has been cleaning theirs.

Pit Dog In The House! I have an 8 year old boy who is eager, (in my own mind!) to start riding. He weighs 75 lbs., and I picked him up a 92' Yamaha RT 100. Spec lists the bike @ 161 lbs. I placed him on the bike, and he had to lean over a little to flat foot one leg. I laid the bike down, and told him to pick it up. He was able to lift it by the bars and get it up. This satisfied me, and I bought it. We live in MN, and we only get 2 weeks of ride time up here a year, so it's sitting in the garage. Do you think I went overboard by buying the 100 as his first bike? I have been told I did. Please bombard me with pros and cons. THANKS!

Pitdog: When I was in Brainard in July it was warm as toast and the sun didn't go down 'til like 10PM! Did I hit your two week window? The greatest joy in my life has been to ride with my kids and watch them race. There is no finer moment than to hug your kid holding that first place trophy. Dirt bikes and riding brings families together like nothing else I have ever witnessed in my 50 years. The RT might look a little tall on him to you, but I suggest new riders just be able to touch their tip toes with riding boots on. Watching him learning to ride will give you an idea about his determination for all things in life. Be a good coach and let him make his own mistakes while you gently give him hints. This will build his confidence in himself like nothing I have ever seen and bound you two together better than ever. Now for the con part. Yes, Virginia, we do sometimes hurt ourselves. If you want your kids to never hurt themselves then keep them in front of the computer or on the couch. Then they will only be mental fruitcakes with weak bodies. Buy him all the proper gear and make him wear it every time he rides. The younger riders generally bounce right back from a get off because they are naturally resilient. It's the cocky teens that ride over their heads, with 'No Fear' until they break something. Oh, and you spend a lot of money on new bikes almost every year. Bottom line is, time is short that you get to spend with your kids compared to how long you might live. Start now to build a relationship that you will never regret.

I will be installing a Pro Circuit pipe on my '01 KTM 125SX . Not by choice mind you but an unfortunate crash left the stocker in sad shape. Anyway I'm not sure how this will effect the jetting. By using the factory manual and doing plug checks I have it set now with the following: Main 182 , Pilot 48 , Needle 1469D, Clip in 2nd. I'm hoping that by just adding the pipe and keeping the stock silencer that it will not change things much since it is spot-on now. If it does throw things out of whack I'm not sure what to change or which way to go. Thanks much !!!!

Pitdog: Most likely your jetting requirements will change. If you where spot on before then it was not safely rich. 2 strokes are extremely sensitive to flow rates. A different pipe will probably change that. Don't take a chance on riding without doing plug inspections as you start out. Get pro help if you are in question.

Hey Pit Dog. I just moved to Seminole/Clearwater. I used to ride an XR250 back in Colorado around 1988. I am thinking about getting back into riding and was wondering what kind of bike to buy. I am 36 years old, 6'3, and 215 pounds. I would like to maybe race Hares or Enduros eventually. Would I be better off with a 4-stroke or a YZ250? I have only ridden 4 strokes and want something that is twice as fast as an XR250 and lots of power. Any Ideas? Good places to ride near St. Pete would also be helpful!! Thanks

Pitdog: Since I'm kind of a 2 stroke guy and you want something a bit faster than an XR250, the YZ250 sounds like a great choice. I live around Central Florida so I have no idea about St. Pete. You might look up your local FTR club or go to Croom.

I have 2000 Honda XR250 and in high gear it bogs down. Can you help me on this. Thanks

Pitdog: Sure, I'll just run right over. A good running motor is the result of testing. Get pro tuner help.

Yo Pit Dog. I'm 15 years old, 5'6, and have a KX100. I have had the about half a year, and I am used to it. I am craving for a little more power. I looked at a FMF SST pipe for it, but I heard you say that aftermarket parts do little difference to a stock engine. This engine is stock, the only part I have changed was the air filter to a K&N. So if I get this pipe what kind of modifications do you suggest I do to the engine? And oh yea, what's the best height for a 125? I looked at a YZ125 and it was TOO TALL, the only thing I was sensible on was a CR125! Who knows, maybe I gotta grow another couple of inches! Thanks for your time.

Pitdog: You didn't say how new your scoot is so I'm just guessing it might just need freshening. Small bore motors need a lot of attention. At least replace the ring before the pipe. There is no 'best height' to ride a 125. Have you ever noticed most riders sit kind of sideways with one foot down when stopped?

Yo Dog. I have just bought a CR125 and I've been racing for one season. I have no riding partners so I have nobody to give me any pointers. My biggest weakness is my starts, "maybe cause I'm 5'3". Could you give me any advice on how to get the Holeshot more often.

Pitdog: Holeshots are hard to get consistently. Its one of those things that need luck and skill. Like every thing else that is hard to do, you must focus really intensely. You already know that you cannot get full on the power without pointing in the right direction and in the attack position. Therefore, the sooner you get in that position on the start, the sooner you can get full on the power. After that, you need to move back on the scoot so the tire just skims the ground to steer. If you are not practicing those
steps you are not building your ability. Focus on getting it the same every time.

What's up Dog? My question this time is about suspension. I know after every ride you're supposed to let the air out of the bleeder screws on your forks. Well, I was wondering, can I put air into them before I ride to stiffen then up? Also, what do they put inside the damper on the back shock? Can I also put some air in it too? Thanks a lot.

Pitdog: The reason we let the air out is because air pressure is bad for the action. Atmospheric air is unstable in the fork and makes it boinky. It builds up by itself because of the natural pumping action. If a fork is really primitive, like an XR100, then adding air would help a heavier rider get by just for trail riding. Never, ever mess with the service port on the rear shock. It has Nitrogen in it under very high pressure. Adjust the spring preload for the shock travel distance.

Pitdog. I have a 98 YZ400. After I start it up, when it's cold, I let it choke for about 30 to 45 seconds. When I take the choke off, it will idle for a few seconds and then cut out. It does that even if I let it choke for a little longer. What could I do? Thanks

Pitdog: Simple, get pro help to tune your carb.

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