Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - how to prepare, bike setup and maintenance.

Pit Dog. I have a friend with a '01 YZ250 and he's about to throw it at the Yamaha dealer if it leaves him (us) stranded in the middle of the woods one more time! The problem being a stator coil that so nicely decides to open once things warm up (dead pile of six grand with no spark). The bike will start and run perfectly again after it cools down, then the same thing once it warms up again. He got the bike for Christmas, and I'll say that it has maybe five hours (no racing, not even riding hard) on it including the time(s) I have spent pulling his #!@ out of the woods with my KDX! Yamaha has replaced the coil once already to the tune of over $100. He just got the bike back on Friday. We went riding for most of the day Saturday, same thing! It was promptly loaded into the trailer and taken to the Yamaha dealer with a rather unhappy tone. My question is, do you have knowledge of this being a frequent Yamaha problem of the '01 era? Should my buddy buy a case of stator coils and become proficient at changing them in the middle of the woods? I'd appreciate any help, I need a good day's riding without having to play tow truck!

Pitdog: I believe someone has been barking up the wrong tree. The stator is but one of the culprits that can cause the problem no matter what year. If it was under warranty with the first repair, he should send a certified letter to the dealer stating his displeasure and his interest in retaining legal assistance to get the bike repaired or sell it.

What is the easiest way to get a bike into the back of a truck? One board, two boards, or a special ramp? I will be doing this a lot of time by myself that is why I ask. I would guess that one big board for the bike will work so I can run it up into the bed of the truck. Thanks for your time

Pitdog: I have a 10 inch wide aluminum ramp that you could drive a truck up so I ride my bike up it. Think good traction and long term.

Hi. It's me again, the 19-year-old trying to select a first bike. I read your advice, and did what a scientific person like myself does best - looked up specs and made a chart, then studied it.

Pitdog: Reader. Yes, the rest of your question is too long and diverse. Please use your E-mail address for a response.

Hi. I am 14 and 5'10. I have been riding an XR100r for a year and I am too big for it but I love the XRs. I am not ready for anything real fast so can you tell me if the XR200r is a good scoot for me? Thanks for your time

Pitdog: If you are going to continue to trail ride, yes, it's not a racer.

Are 4 strokers really that hard to kick? I know that the 2's are a lot easier. I tell people I want a 4 stroke and they laugh and say you will spend more time kickin it that enjoying it. Also, is it worth it to get one with electric start? I don't want to spend the cash on that and add the weight if it is not a must have on a 4 stroke. Mahalo--

Pitdog: They are not necessarily harder to kick, they are just harder to get restarted. The electric start is the way to go because the starter spins the thing over many more times than you can by kicking which clears the cylinder of heat or extra fuel, allowing it to fire sooner. Get the button.

Silly question time but, do all bikes that are made for trail riding (XR, DRZ etc)come with a spark arrester? I read that you need it for Croom and Ocala. Thank you

Pitdog: To race the Enduros you need a spark arrestor. To play ride you don't. I'll use the words 'most do' in my answer. All Forest approved units have the writing on the outside to see.

Hi. Is it possible or safe to lower a bikes height by an inch or so? Thanks

Pitdog: You might be able to get a half an inch or so by sliding the forks down and reducing rear spring preload but yes, handling will be affected. Is that unsafe? Don't know, but less paranoia for sure. New riders like to touch down as they learn to ride. Better riders don't care about touching. You'll learn.

Hi. I am a very small 19-year-old - according to most charts I should be 12. I am 5' even, 90 lb. I am currently saving money looking into buying a bike, and I'm not really sure what I should get. I don't intend to race at the moment, but who knows what might happen in a year or two. I've tried a few friends' and friends' siblings' bikes, but as they don't cover much range, I don't really have enough information to go on. I tried two 80s: a Suzuki DS80 and a Yamaha PW80. I also tried a Honda CR250R. Needless to say, the CR250R was quite a stretch - taking off controllably was difficult, especially since I started by leaning against a tree. lol. I don't think that's it. The PW80 seemed a bit small, and the DS80 I rode wasn't very well maintained and had all sorts of annoying quirks - so it's quite difficult to judge. I don't know what's out there, so I don't know what to get. I mean, I've been to the manufacturer websites and browsed around, and seen quite a few that sound like what I need, but not having any experience in the area, I don't know where to start. It should be noted that the most important factor to me is getting a bike that I'm going to fit comfortably. I'm not afraid of power. The first time I took off on that CR250R I wound up accidentally lifting the front end right off the ground and almost flipping myself over. I learned to handle that rather quickly.

Pitdog: Small in stature, big in courage. Let me say that one of the fastest ladies here in the Southeast is about 5.5 and 130 lbs soaking wet. Size means nothing. Most of the ladies are small and race 125s. Not knowing if you are a female, you would be better starting on something less just the same. My girl pup came up on a XR100, then to a KX100, then to a YZ125. The XRs are great trail and fun bikes but not good racers. It would be wise to learn on a lesser bike then trade to a race bike as your confidence builds. You might even like a 2 stroke race 80 of some sort but the 100 does a little better in the Hares. Both of the 80s that you tried where not race bikes so don't judge by them. Think hard about your investment and your goals. It might be better to buy new because of possible service nightmares but used will have less depreciation if you trade soon.

Dear Mr. Pit Dog: Do you think a YZ250 should be bought if you plan on racing or can it be a good bike if just plan on riding it for fun on trails and on wide open fields, (with occasional jumps of course)? I want something with power but don't know if the YZ250 will be good for what I want. Should I consider a WR250 four stroke? I've always wanted a YZ250 though. What would be a good bike for this? Thanks for your help. - Billy -

Pitdog: I would pick a 2 stroke 250 for myself but then again I'm 50+ A. It will be a very large handful for a beginner. The WR would be better for fun riding but the starting??? Think sedate, then move up.

Pit Dog. I recently bought a YZ125, (my first bike), and I love it to death. I don't know anyone that rides, so I usually ride alone with someone watching. I ride my new bike pretty hard, and notice a lot of grease/oil coming out the exhaust. Is that normal? Also, when should I do the first maintenance and what should it be? No one told me anything at the dealership. It was wham-bam thank you ma'am and I took the bike, so I'm completely lost.. THANKS!

Pitdog: Now you'll know which dealer not to visit on your next scoot. If it's a new scoot, Yamaha's come with a 30 day warranty. Open that owners manual that came with it, or buy one for a used one, read it and eat it so you never forget the words. There is a lot of good info on maintenance and tuning in those manuals. Pitdog would not have to repeat his words so often if the readers would just read the manual. Oil from the exhaust is unburned premix. That means your cylinder temperature is running low. This could be the result of fat jetting or slow riding. Read your plug, read your manual, or read down for more jetting hints. Also, you need to do maintenance after every ride, you are late.

Hey Dog. I want to get into Hare Scrambles. I have a KXF250 Tecate4 and a TRX250R. Both are in great condition. Which would be better for H/S, and what mods would be necessary? Also, are there any jumps or anything you can get air on at any of the FTR events. Thanks

Pitdog: I'm not a 4 wheeler guy so I guess either one would be OK as long as they are not set up for utility use. You'll find out their weak points after a few races and will have to attend to those needs to go faster. Off-road racing isn't designed to get you air like M/X. If you are fast, you'll get air off every obstacle. The challenge of riding the natural terrain is where the fun is, but you'll learn.

I have a 1984 CR125 and a new DG silencer but I need a spark arrestor so I can go on trails. Where should I go to get a spark arrestor for my bike?

Pitdog: Almost all of the major exhaust manufacturers make spark arrestors for their systems. Your problem will be the age of the scoot. All of the bike shops have catalogs that list existing parts available. Why not start there? After that, think about having one fabed by a welder.

Hi PD, I hope you can help me. I have interested in getting my first off-road bike. I have been looking around at Yamaha and Honda and getting a lot of information but some things are confusing me. I am 29, 5 ft 10in, & 215 lbs. I have NO interest in track racing however I do have some interest in Hare Scrambles but that is a way off for me. I'd prefer a 4 stroke because of the maintenance issues and I want to trail ride. I will start out play riding then possibly race Scrambles once I get more experience. Most of the sales people have suggested the YZ426, WR426 and XR400. They say I may be to big for a 250 and I just have to believe them, I have no clue. This purchase I want to last a long, long time so in short, what I want to know is this. Is it unwise to get a 400 or 426 to play with and learn on even though I have no intention of getting really crazy on it, or should I get something more like a 250? Any help you can give would help a GREAT deal. Also of the above bikes mentioned what would you want to have, (if you are a 4 stroke fan)? Rob

Pitdog: I've said before I would like to have a trick XR250, but trick equals high maintenance and cost. I'm really a 2 stroke guy because they are world class right from the box. You want this purchase to last a long time which goes against what the majority of off-road riders get. As you will get to be a better rider the scoot will be wearing out its major components making it not worth keeping. This is the result of the environment and measured by your knowledge of service. Since you are not a youngster but you are just beginning, you need to think seriously about having fun while you learn. It will not be fun learning on an open class behemoth like a 400. A stock Honda XR250 would be my choice for you then a re-evaluation after you come to grips with your ability. Don't rush it and always plan to have fun.

Hi Mr. Dog. I recently bored my 77 PE250 and need to adjust jetting. Right now the bikes runs strong, for a short time, then I need to change the plug to run again. The plug looks like it has carbon built up on it. The bore is 60 over and I have a 250 main jet w/ a 40 pilot and the needle set all the way down to the last notch. Where should I start to make adjustments and not do harm to the new top end? The compression is strong.

Pitdog: Sorry, I never recommend jetting numbers, too many variables. I would start with testing the main jet by running hard on a short course. Check with the dealer to find out what was stock jetting and buy several along with some plugs.

Some Enduros require a dirt bike to have a tag, (license plate). How do I go about obtaining one without buying a dual sport kit, (like Baja Designs)? What State, (and web site or address), can I contact about obtaining a tag? I have a KTM E/XC but my dealer told me I could not get a tag for a dirt bike.

Pitdog: What has been the tradition for thirty some years or more is that an Enduro bike appear street legal. Most savvy riders run MX bikes with strap on head and tail lights in Enduros. The tag is all show because it is not registered to the scoot, ( or even have a current date, like mine). FTR has been pushing for several years to have a State registry program for off-road scoots. I hope this would satisfy some of the eyes that have watched us run unregistered all those years. I don't keep up on Web sites for tagging off-road scoots.

Hi Dog. I'm coming off a WR400F and plan to get a 2 stroke. It will be either a CR250 or a YZ250. I'm in a dilemma, both are great bikes. Which bike would you recommend? I ride and race mainly MX. So Dog, what is your point of view? Thanks!

Pitdog: Both are the best the world has to offer so maybe the one that matches your gear. The YZ may be better at crossing over to off-road, however.

Hey Pitdog. I have a 99 RM125 and a couple of days ago while I was riding I ran out of fuel. All of a sudden it started to rev very high all on its on. I could not do anything but use the emergency kill switch. Is this usually what happens or should I get it checked out. P.S. I have paid a lot more attention now to how much gas I have. Thanks

Pitdog: Yes, that would have been somewhat normal and now a regular kill button has a new name. As I've said before, 2 strokes waste a lot of fuel at small throttle openings. As yours ran low, it didn't have much fuel to waste so the mix became leaner causing the revs to go up. When this happens the combustion temperature goes up as well and that's primarily why we don't set jetting that way. If it happened for only a few seconds you'll probably be OK. Better pull the pipe and inspect your piston to check for overheating just to be safe.

Hey Dog. I have an ATK 605es. I have several problems I cannot get wired with it. Well, 1st is the revs. I cannot find a rev limiter on it anywhere but it has to have one by the way it acts. When I throttle up past 1/2 throttle it starts cutting out and won't rev any higher and it should. With a test tach it won't go over 6500rpm before it starts cutting out. The factory says the red line is 12,000rpm. I checked the timing advance with a timing light and it's right on. I have the jetting right now. I run 100 octane gas. What is the word on the life of an ATK anyway? I have had mine for 4 months just play riding and it is coming apart at the seams literally. I have about 10 cracked welds in the frame and swing arm. My best friend bought a 1994 ATK 605es and it keeps catching the air filter on fire and it doesn't have a magic button. It is a beast to start and we have done and checked everything. I guess that's why my 1996 has an aluminum airbox. Well, my biggest problem is my midrange/top end power. I want some. The low-end is real good up to 6500rpms but nothing after that. Can you help Dog? The ATK dealer ship can't or won't help out so you are my last hope. I want more power! And less problems. Thank you

Pitdog: What did Harry Carry used to say, "Holy cow." First, the rev limiter should be built into the ignition black box logic circuit. The failure to limit RPMs correctly is a common failure on production race bikes so it might be the cause. I'd be so mad about all those cracks that I would chain the frame to the dealers front door and camp there until the factory did something about it. Not really but hey! If the ignition box fixes your problem I'd have big signs made that say what a looser the dealer is and place them every morning for him to read as he came in. Really! The problem with your buddy's scoot sounds like cam timing. Have a race bike tuner check it out. Good luck guy. Makes me think about another US manufacturer that can't get a Superbike on the box even though they have been around like forever.

I saw where I can buy a street legal kit for my KX250? Do they work pretty well without frying the ignition, and will it hurt performance very much? Thanks Dog.

Pitdog: What I think you mean to say is a lighting kit which would be the first step to making a MX scoot street legal. Specialty companies, like Baja Products, make such kits for popular scoots. It includes a lighting coil to power all the lights. A lighting coil does not run the ignition so damage should not be an issue. I believe the lighting coil kit comes with a heavier flywheel which will have the same affect on performance as any other flywheel change. I've heard of some riders using the power jet coil to run their headlights to pass Enduro tech. I don't know if this is good or how bright the light is. Street legal would include turn signals in most states. Better to do it right.

Hey Pit Dog, wassup? I was wondering how long should you run a bike half throttle after a top end job and replacing the cylinder. Thanks Pit, you rule.

Pitdog: Who told you to run along at half throttle? I believe what you mean is to not run a new piston in at high RPMs. The roundness of a new piston is nearly impossible to match to the roundness of the cylinder bore. Breaking in the piston involves running the motor up to temperature at a relaxed pace, maybe three times, letting it cool in between. What this does is to scuff-in the piston to the bore gently. High RPMs or high cylinder temperature may cause the piston to seize against the bore ruining the bore surface. I generally run the motor for 15 minutes, up to medium RPMs, occasionally using full throttle in the mix. The cylinder needs to cool enough so that you can hold it with your hand. New jetting numbers may be required at this time because better compression makes the most difference to combustion temperature.

Hi Pit Dog, I have a problem on my bike. When I am "coasting" in first gear, and I give it full throttle immediately, my bike just bogs. Any way I could fix that? Thanks

Pitdog: Depends. It could be jetted too lean or you just need to learn some throttle control. Read the plug.

Hey Pit Dog. I have been riding for a long time but I still don't know much about the mechanical aspect of my bike that I wish I did. Could you please briefly describe jetting and how to adjust it? Thanks. PIT DOG ROCKS!

Pitdog: The pilot jet sends fuel to the intake at low revs and is affected by the air screw at idle. The needle controls the fuel through the main jet as the slide opens. The arch of the slide determines the ratio of air as the slide opens. The main jets rules the fuel at wide open throttle. Each adjustment has a minor affect on the next. I start with the main by testing on a small course, running hard. Look for a medium tan or gray on the spark plug porcelain. The pilot and needle need to be adjusted in a similar fashion after testing at low to medium revs. Temperature, altitude, riding style, displacement, fuel octane, and mojo all have an affect on jetting. Get pro help the first few times.

Pit Dog. I have a 2000 XR100R and I've gotten really good on it. I want something faster. Do you recommend a CR80 Expert?

Pitdog: Yes, or a KX100.

Pit Dog WASUP! In the dog house? Well, I was wondering if I can get an Enduro light for a 1996 or newer YZ250? I'm 13 years old and just bought one. I like riding the woods and motocross track at dusk so please answer me. Oh yea, I was wondering what's the best pipe and silencer for a 1998 YZ250? Thanks.

Pitdog: You'll need a lighting coil to run a strap on headlight. Such systems can be found through Baja Products. Not cheap though. Your best bet is to mount a high performance bicycle type helmet light. That way you can see where you're looking. I don't recommend after-market products to a stock motor if you're looking for performance because they make such a small difference.

Hey Pit Dog. I have a 96 CR80 and it is one of the fastest bikes out of the Mini classes. I have taken good care of it. The only problem is that we have replaced the swing arm bearings several times as well as the rear axle bearings and the back wheel persists to have slop. I can move it back and forth just a little and I was wondering if it was something to worry about or if it will just be fine. It has not affected the bike performance at all. My dad says that it is a problem that we have to fix but I don't want him to spend money on it if he doesn't have to. Thanx

Pitdog: What does Pitdog always say? All together now, always, always, always listen to your Dad! I'm already thinking you have not taken the best care of the scoot if you've had to replace the swing arm bearings. What you probably have now is a worn swing arm housing, bolt, or frame holes. Take it apart again and find out what's worn. Clean and repack those areas after a mud race so stuff like that doesn't happen.

Hello Dog. I purchased a TTR 125L for nephews Christmas and he loves it. Great little bike but the front suspension is lacking terribly. I have put additional oil and longer spacer but everything is just small and flexy. If I found a YZ80 front end would it swap over without major complications? Can I get a better rear shock and if so where can I go? I don't want him on a 2 stroke just yet but would like to make his woods riding a little easier. Thanks for your help: Shane

Pitdog: You've already done what I would have so I guess that's it. We had the same problem with my pup's XR100. Good thing they grow out of them quick. Swapping stuff from one bike to another is not something I would get into or suggest. Best to keep things original because another part may not take the load, like the frame! 4 strokes like the TTR's are made for fun, trail riding. When you start to push them hard the fun goes away and the pain sets in. Belly-up and get him a race bike if he's riding the wheels off the TTR.

Hey Pit Dog. I am unfortunately from Connecticut. What is your opinion on doing your pistons and rings by yourself and not having a pro do it? Will it effect the performance? One more thing, what do you look for when you buy a 2 stroke? Joe

Pitdog: Without some professional help or training on cylinder inspection and preparation you be extremely lucky to get like new performance. It just isn't worth spending the money on the parts and not paying for the cylinder to be cleaned and inspected by a pro. If you want to save some, take the cylinder and new piston to a pro and let him do just that part. Be sure to replace the gaskets and find the torque specs. Buying a 2 stroke? Get a new one. They have a very short life.

Pit Dog: I'm 5'11" and weigh 180 pounds. I have a 98 RM125 do you think I am too heavy for this bike? Should I get a 250? I like the light weight of the 125, because I can move it around easily. I recently switched over from 4-stroke to 2-stroke. One word, WOW, what a big difference.

Pitdog: Yes, you are tall enough and heavy enough for a 250, a little much for a 125. I'm about 190lbs and when I ride my pup's 125 it is a ball. I just wouldn't want to race against other riders on 250s. No-go out of tight corners. Consider a 250 once you are riding the 125 for all it will do.

Dear Pit Dog. I have a 99' XR200r and it began to make a pretty loud tapping noise in the motor. I'm not really sure what it could be, but I was wondering if it can hurt the motor in the long run by just not fixing it. Thanks.

Pitdog: Any time a motor makes a strange noise it's trying to tell you something. Yours is trying to tell you, GET A GRIP! Four strokes have valves that need adjusting along with a bunch of other maintenance. Better start now to get your scoot up to snuff or you'll have a new boat anchor.

Pit Dog: I recently purchased a 91 YZ250. It runs and shifts well, but when the bike is cold, and you pull the clutch in, (while it's in gear), the bike won't roll. It does roll if it is in neutral, and will roll in gear, with the clutch pulled in once it's warmed up. Any guesses on where I should be looking to solve this problem? I replaced the clutch cable and have very little slack, less than a quarter's diameter, between the lever. Thanks in advance for your advice! Jimmy G.

Pitdog: Is this your first scoot guy? All bikes do that. Bike clutches are unlike car clutches in that bikes have several clutch plates and disc compared to a car's one. BMW is the only bike I know of that has one disc. The reason for this is the clutch area is very small on most bikes, in the side of the case, and they take a lot of abuse. Multiple plates equal more surface area. The older a scoot gets, however, the more worn the clutch basket gets causing the plates and disc to not move freely when released. I'm sure a 91 is well worn. Be concerned about if it breaks disc or is otherwise not operating properly. And uh, push it around in neutral.

Pit dog. What kind of tachometer do I need for checking idle speeds on my XR200? What kind of timing light do I use also? The automotive types I have just aren't working. Thanks!, Sonny

Pitdog: Nobody I know worries about specific idle speed on a single cylinder motor. You'll know when the idle is too high because it will slam into gear, and too low because it will stall easily. Some automotive type timing lights may not pick up the spark pulse on a 6 volt XR. You might need pro help or a better light.

Hey there Pit Dog. I just purchased a 2000 YZ250 and I don't find that it has the ponies that my 1996 CR250 had. Both bikes are completely stock. The Yamaha really runs good but I'm looking for a little more power. What do you think would be the best bang for the buck? Thanks

Pitdog: The 96 CRs were some of the best bikes ever. Have cylinder mods made to the YZ so it will make more power where you want it with matched gearing.

Hey Pit Dog. I love your column. I live in Connecticut and am tired of NOT riding. Riding is my life, but I have a question. I have been riding a 93 XR100 for a year. I want to buy a KX80 or 100 some say I'm not ready, some say I am. Is a 2 stroke a lot harder to ride? I have been getting into jumps and like them, but every time I hit a flyer I end up getting hurt.
WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Pitdog: First, stop doing stuff that gets you hurt, that's real dumb. The KX is the best choice from the XR. Prove to your parents that you are worthy by NOT making it your life.

I just bought my wife a new KE 100 for trail riding. I figured being a 100cc 2 stroke it would have a little pep, but I was wrong. This thing is so slow I thought there was something wrong with it. It only goes about 45 and it has absolutely no acceleration. Are these things supposed to be this slow?

Pitdog: The KE100 is a popular scoot for smaller riders on hard surfaces. In soft terrain they are worse than a XR100. Trade now so she can have some fun with you or put AC in the dog house.

Hi Dog. What's the best way to loosen up screws around the stator? Mine are in so tight, that I'm scared I'll strip them out with a regular screw driver. The ones on my old YZ were so tight that I twisted the heads off once. I was trying this cause I heard changing the timing can give better bottom end. Is it worth it?

Pitdog: If you don't have an impact driver in your tool box you are messing with stuff that you shouldn't. Adjusting the timing may give you better bottom end if it is not set correctly. I suggest the stock setting.

Hi Pit Dog. I have a Honda XR80. I recently changed the rings. In doing so I didn't make sure to keep the timing right. How do I go about adjusting the timing? Thank you, Kory

Pitdog: You're in the proverbial doggy doo now. You most have a service manual to do such repairs or get hands on help.

Wazz up Dog? When cleaning a bike, do you suggest that I spray the whole bike down with a hose, or just use a towel and soap? Cats you later.

Pitdog: Both actually. Start by using the hose to knock of dirt clods all over the bike. Use a fan spray so a concentrated stream of water does not hit the areas that hold grease. I section the bike in thirds so the soap doesn't dry up on me, front, center, rear. Using a sponge, I wash the larger areas as much possible. A tooth brush is used for smaller areas. More important than cleaning is to make sure you have not washed lube from areas that are not sealed, like the clutch pivot, brake and shift levers, and cables. Constantly look for loose and worn items.

Pit Dog I apologize for not being more specific on the tuning problems of my 99 KX250 for H/S racing. I'm pretty happy with the mid to top end rev, but I'm trying to get a little more bottom end off start or through tight woods areas. Maybe a different sprocket combo would be the answer. The CR500, as you know, has power to spare at all ends of the spectrum. If I could find a little more bottom this would take care of what I need. I thought a flywheel weight may have been the answer, what do you think would be best to try first?

Pitdog: No worries. I find it extremely hard to believe a stock KX250 is not as good as a stock CR500 in the tight stuff. I have ridden 500s and I can tell you it takes a very talented rider to go fast on one in the trees. In the FTR series, here in Florida, we have had only one such rider. Nevertheless, shorter gearing will make a scoot sprint off corners, top end speed will be sacrificed. I have heard complaints about the later model KX having too tall of a first gear for woods racing. A flywheel weight will just calm the hit which I wouldn't recommend for more low end. I'm thinking your motor is suffering from loss of compression, jetting, or reed problems. Start from scratch.

Thanks Pit for all your help. The front forks on my 99' XR200 are set to factory 0 psi with the front tire off the ground. When I go and ride, some of the hills I go down cause the forks to compress all the way causing the front tire to hit my front fender. Can I put air in the front forks to prevent this, how much?   Jesse D.

Pitdog: Very little air makes a big difference, try 6lbs.

Yo Pit Dawg. I have a KDX 200 and on the air box there is a cover with a snorkel of some sort and a regulator attached. Do you think it would run better with it off because it would get more air, or should I leave it on so no mud gets in? Thanks for your time l8er

Pitdog: If you take the top off you'll have to attach the regulator to the side. The carb is jetted for the cover so it will run lean without it. I've moved the clip richer on the needle and run 50:1 mix with stock brass before with good results. You might start there. The snorkel is designed to work until you're up to your arse in water.

Pitdog, I just got a  2000 426.  When accelerating hard out of a tight corner onto a straight and going through the gears the bike tends to get stuck between gears then it will slam into gear.  Why does it do this, because it sure doesn't sound good on the tranny?  My old bike never had this problem but it also didn't have the torque either?

Pitdog: The detent spacing for the shift linkage is not in line with the gear spacing. Better get pro help before you bust it.

Hey pit dog, I recently bought a 1995 KDX 200. I like it a lot but I got a few questions. First off it seems to hesitate in first and second gear but when I shift to third it is smooth as butter. Could this just be because it is cold here? The jetting is stock but the owner before me but a sprocket on the back with 5 more teeth than stock. I also was wondering how do you tell if the piston and rings needs to be replaced? Right now I have the head off but not the cylinder, There is a bunch of carbon but the piston isn't loose. Lastly when I down shift from third or second there is a noise that comes from what seems to be the ignition side, it sounds like something is shaking or grinding, but I was told it is normal for KDZes. what's up with that? Thank you for your time.Dan

Pitdog: Dan, you are biting off more than you can chew. Put the head back on and take it for a pro tuner evaluation. Otherwise your efforts will be lost.

Hi. My name is Yannis and I am from Greece. I have power problems with my DT200WR and I think is the YPVS. Maybe you can help me if you tell me how to adjust it. Also, I want a diagram with the right settings.
Thanks Yannis

Pitdog: What you really need is an owner's manual. I don't know about buying one in Greece but most dealers have them here. The YPVS doesn't make a huge difference. Check the compression.

Hey Pit Dog. I just got my YZ250F and it really hauls. The only problem with it is that if you blip the throttle at idle it falls on its face and if you hold the throttle open it will go dead. If you roll the throttle it runs fine. I have a lot of experience with 2 strokes and jetting but not 4 stroke MX bikes. I adjusted the air screw, clip position up and down and went leaner and fatter on the main but nothing seems to make a difference. I checked the throttle pump and it is working. Is this a characteristic of this bike or can it be fixed?

Pitdog: It's not broke! Remember all the parts that have to accelerate when you crack the throttle on a 4 stroke. Big difference! Try running a higher idle, it will help against stalling too.

Pit Dog. I'm 12 years old and I am interested in competition riding. I have a 99' XR200 and love it. What kind of event do you think I should start in? I really like the sound of my bike with the muffler out. Will this hurt the bike without making any changes to the engine? My Dad say's I need to ride it the way it was made. Thanks for all your help! Jesse D.

Pitdog: Always, always, always listen to your Dad, no matter what. The scoot may sound better to you with the baffle out but worse the others and it will need re-jetting. The FTR series has a class for beginners that you can start out in. The XR will be handful but fun.

Hey Pit Dog! Thanks for your help on the tranny oil issue! Is it bad to break-in a new motor with synthetic 2-stroke oils?(Amsoil). What's your opinion on Golden Spectro? What oil do you use? Should I go 32:1 like Suzuki says or follow the mixing instructions of whatever oil I decide to use? Thanks again!

Pitdog: Your answers are, no-maybe-yes-I don't know. Synthetic oils make the burn richer so that's a good thing for break-in. Golden Spectro's been around forever, do you think there's a story there? I use Champion oil (the old Dura Lube). I run 50:1 mix ratio and pump fuel. You might need race gas with 32:1 (like the factories).

Hi Dog. I have a 94RM 125 that I use mainly trail riding but I do ride MX a little too. The rear suspension has been getting real springy lately on small bumps. It wants too buck you over the bars and while riding along a smooth trail and it bounces up and down. I have fooled around with the rebound setting but nothing seems to help. I've had the bike since 96 and it's never rode like this. Is the shock worn out? Can you rebuild a monoshock?

Pitdog: Of course the shock was designed to be rebuilt, and it needs to be serviced at least once a year. Having the oil serviced at this time might bring you some relief but considering the year, don't expect miracles.

I currently ride a '98 XR400. I'm probably going to trade if for a WR250F.  The WR seems fantastic but I'm concerned about the exhaust noise level. Do you know the dBA ratings of my XR400 with the stock muffler (fully stock - with baffle) and how it will compare to WR (with and without the baffle)?  Revents test of the WR made mention that the bike is really LOUD without the baffle but don't discuss what the bike is like with it in. What I want to know is what is the WR205F like if I leave it corked. Am I going to lose 2 horse power or 5 (I can't imagine losing more than a couple)?  Will the torque curve significantly change? What are the drawbacks of leaving the cork in? Do any after-market pipes open it up while keeping the noise down (It's hard to imagine that)?     Thanks

Pitdog: You are asking questions only a dyno and sound meter can answer. Uncorking a 4 stroke makes the motor spin up faster on top. The problem with that is they hit the rev limiter and sputter. This will cost you time. Have you ever hit the rev limiter with the XR and stock baffle? Kind of hard to do. The 250F will be an easier scoot to ride because it's lighter and has better boingers. Also the crank inertia will be less. Keep the baffle in for Enduros and play riding and remove it just for Hares and MX on any 4 stroke.

Hey Pit Dog. I'm coming from an overseas Motocross background. I'm confused with the difference between an Enduro & Hare Scramble. Thanks.

Pitdog: Enduros are the same here as they are there, it's a time and distance event. To win an Enduro you must be at an exact place at the exact time. Hare Scrambles are a lot like Grand Prixs in that you ride an off-road event as fast as you can to the end against riders in your class.

I recently bought a 79 RM 80 with a 85 DS 80 motor for my daughter. It runs great but has a very erratic idle. Sometimes really high and sometimes really low to the point of stalling. The guy I got it from said the air mix screw (large one in the middle, left side)? was the wrong one for the carb. Could that be the problem or is it something else? Could it be float level? How do I adjust the carb once I have the right screw? Help.

Pitdog: The larger screw usually is the idle screw. The mix screw should be to the carb inlet side and lower down. Most erratic idle problems come from air leaks at the carb mount or cylinder base. If you spray around those areas with WD40 you can locate an air leak. I would suggest getting a little pro help tuning this older bike because the carb itself may need some major help. The bottom line is you don't want to mess up your daughters fun with a bike that is hard to ride.

Hey Dog. I'm 33, 200 lbs, 5'11", and switched this year to a 99 KX250 from a 98 CR500. the bike was purchased used and had from what I could tell very few hours on it. The previous owner put on a PC pipe, Shorty silencer, and changed the jetting to a N3WK needle, and #58 power jet. The plug runs a darker shade of tan on the very tip but turns black on up. The air screw is still at factory setting. I run Klotz synthetic @ 44:1 with 93 octane. I ride hard and expect top performance from my machines, but I'm having a hard time getting this one right. This bike is a lot more sensitive than the CR. I live in Ohio and was told the changes made to the jetting was what Pro Circuit recommended for our altitude. I'm going to be riding in some Hare Scrambles this year. If you could help with the jetting on this bike I would appreciate it. Also, do you recommend a flywheel weight for this bike and type of riding?

Pitdog: You will never see me recommend jetting numbers, and I've said why many times. Yes, a smaller displacement motor is harder to tune than a larger. Be glad you did not go to a 125. You did not say what performance dilemma you have other than the plug is black on top and you are having a hard time getting it right. Anytime you see black, it's too rich. Being rich on the main may be what you will need for long H/S straights and cooler weather. A lot of riders use a flywheel weight on MX bikes to calm the low end hit. I suggest getting pro assistance for the jetting before changing the flywheel.

Wassup Dog? I need some help on buying a motorcycle. I have my heart set on a new XR650R. Being only 5 foot 8.5 and 140lbs, and coming straight off a XR250R, (which I felt had no power), is this the right choice? Also, how is the bike going to ride compared to the 250XR? I am also considering an electric start DRZ400E, but according to specs it weighs MORE than a XR650R. The XR would SPANK the 400, plus it is a Honda, which I love, and it weighs less. The only downside is I have to kick start it. Will the DR feel lighter than the Honda, and ride lighter, or should I stick to the 2 wheel coffin Honda XR650R? Which will be better for play/trail riding, and what is the top speed of the DRZ400? I have my XR250 geared so I could hit 70-80mph but with no acceleration, but I love crusin down the roads. What do you suggest? I thought about the WR426, but it is too high performance. Thank you, I really need some imput. Oh yea, I think I speak for everyone. Thanks for answering so many of our hard to answer questions, it does more than you could ever imagine. Mark H

Pitdog: Uh, your welcome. I'd keep the 250 and trick out the motor. (I've always wanted one.) The new XR650is a trick scoot. Starting it with 140lbs of arse will be a challenge, but how many times are you going to need to start it if you like the roads so much? The electric starters really help on the larger 4 strokes. Honda didn't put one on the 650 because it's so performance oriented. The Honda or the Suzuki will both make great fire road bikes but the fun will end in the tight stuff for you. How about the 650 frame with a full on 250 motor! Hummm.

What is your opinion on all the different transmission oils these days. I just bought a 2001 RM125 and the manual says to use 10w-40 motor oil. I see lots of companies offering various tranny oils with some even being synthetic. My buddy sells the Amsoil products and he swears by the synthetic 10w-40 motor, (for the tranny), and their 2- stroke oil mixed at 50:1. My manual recommends 32:1. I have not ridden the bike yet, (to cold in northern Minnesota), so your advise would be very helpful. Thanks!

Pitdog: Your buddies advice is probably based on his luck unless he is an engineer. I personally use a synthetic motor oil in my transmissions because of their ability to fight off the clutch heat. Amsoil makes synthetic motorcycle transmission oil that would be better yet. Synthetic premix oil doesn't burn as much as a blend or petroleum based oils so re-jetting will be required even if you stay with the same ratio. If you change ratios and oils, all jetting will be different. Be careful when it's cold, all will change when it warms up.

Hi. I live in Michigan and was riding my CR80 expert for the first or second time since October. It was about 50 degrees out. The bike was running real good. When I tested the spark plug reading it was light tan sometimes grayish on the electrode. In 5 and 6 gear only, it would bog down and then rev up! I was wondering if you might know what is wrong? Thank you

Pitdog: Three things come to mind. Small displacement motors have a hard time pulling the taller gears because of their lack of momentum. If it bogged at low revs and then took off, that was somewhat normal. If you where riding along at higher revs and it bogged and took off again it might have been sediment in the carb bowl or a cold seize of the piston. You must be very careful in cooler air with the jetting on smaller motors. The light tan plug sounds too lean. Look up the exhaust port to inspect the piston for damage.

Pit Dog. I am a 13 year old that's 5'8" and 160 pounds. What bike should I get for Motocross riding? I would like a 4 stroke but I don't know. Thanks

Pitdog: It's that easy, you just go out, buy a bike and ride Motocross. Boy have I been fooled. I think you should go through a time warp back to 4 years old and get a PW50. That way you would already know what bike you wanted by now, no question. However, maybe a 125 would be best. If you're just starting out riding it's going to be like, SURPRISE!

Hey Dog. I have a 98 KTM200MXC that I race in B-200. I was wondering how I could smooth out the hit a little bit. I have already dropped the rear sprocket 2 teeth but it's still a little jerky at 14/48. I heard something about using a reed cage off the 99 to smooth it out. Other than that I am clueless. Any advise would help, thanks.
#711 B-200

Pitdog: It could be that the motor is 'jerky' because the low speed jetting is a little fat. My pup likes her 125 jetting scary lean down low so that the motor pulls sooner and transitions to the pipe earlier. This has been a constant battle between me saying she's going to blow it up, and her saying I like it! I suggest a compromise for you. Other than that, a heavier flywheel will also control the hit but the motor won't charge when you want it to. Try the reeds and some jetting.

Pit Dog - HI. My name is David Bybel and I live up in Connecticut. I was wondering if the new 2001 YZ250F would be a good bike for me? I have a KX100 now but it's way too small. I weight 159 pounds, I'm 5' 8.5" tall and ride in the Super Mini class. I just was wondering if this would be a good move up, because I'm looking to get into the whole 4 stroke racing scene. Thanks so much Pit Dog, you rule the dog house.

Pitdog: It's that extra half an inch that makes the difference. I know some ladies that want to get one too but I fear they will have a time starting it from what I have already seen. You being 159 lbs will help. Almost all the kids I know have had a KX100 before they moved up to a 125. Moving to a 250F will be kind of like going to a heavy 250 2 stroke with a little less power. Big difference. I'm thinking all you riders asking about the 250F should test ride a buddie's first. I have yet to ride one but I know what to expect.

I have a 2001 CR125 with a Pro Circuit works pipe and R304 silencer. My question is, what kind of jets would I put in to get the most power out of my bike? Thanks

Pitdog: The magic formula is---- oops I can't tell you, it's magic! Yes, proper jetting can be magic for any scoot, so everybody READ THIS. Correct jetting can only be the result of testing and reading the plug because EVERY MOTOR IS DIFFERENT! One rider's success is another rider's failure, even with motor and mods the same. You will want to have a medium tan or gray look to the plug to be close to perfect. White or light tan is bad, as well as black. What you are really looking at is the result of the combustion temperature. Too hot and the piston destroys itself. Too cold and the fuel doesn't burn, wasting power. The main jet, needle, pilot, and air screw all need to be correct when doing their specific job. Each one has a slight effect on the other. I have a complete understanding of how to set up jetting and it still takes me a few tries. If you are new at it, get help for the first few times. You can very easily turn your average running scoot into a slug or worse than that, melt a piston.

Hey Pit Dog! I have a 01 Yamaha Blaster. I don't race, only play ride. I was wondering what the best pipes would be to put? Also, I was wondering what I should do about the jetting after the pipes are on? THANKS!

Pitdog: For play riding, keep the stockers. Performance pipes will increase the performance mostly at high revs, not exactly play riding. This change will make it HARDER to ride at low revs. Any jetting change is the result of testing, no matter what other changes have been made.

Hey Pit Dog. I am having trouble trying to figure out how to reshape my cylinder head on my RM250. I've decked the cylinder, narrowed the transfer ports, and re-angled them to help regain more bottom end. I know I want to keep the head deep and the squish band roughly 60% of the head surface area but at what angle should I cut the squish band. Please help Pit Dog.

Pitdog: You are attempting to do black art so you better get a cape to wear while you do it. Pro tuners have plates that fit to the head surface so they can fill the squish area with a measure of oil that will plug into an equation that calculates the resulting compression. Without doing the math you will be lost. I've participated in years of cylinder head and piston design but would not think about attempting it on my own. You must be extremely precise, think hard.

I'm a Mom of a 6 year old with a 50cc 2 stroke 4 wheeler who wants to get into racing. I am having a hard time finding any tracks or organizations, in Central Florida, for him to practice at. Can you help?

Pitdog: I have seen 4 wheelers on the mini course at Orlando MX track for practice but I don't know if they have a class for the little guys to race in. 4 wheelers, 6 year olds, and MX don't mix well. He will actually be safer on a 2 wheeled scoot because when they crash, and they will crash, there is less weight to contend with.

Hey Pit Dog. My XR 200 keeps flooding. Can you give me an idea on what the problem may be?
-Korri

Pitdog: Most of the time it is simply trash caught in the fuel needle and seat. Remove the carb bowl and float to inspect. If you see nothing, then the float is taking on fuel. You can check a tin float by drying it off and shaking it. Plastic floats have to be weighed. If it's an older XR the plastic float would be toast and in need of replacing.

Yo Dog. I'm a free style rider I would like to know tips on how to whip it like the pros. Do you know the technique?

Pitdog: It wasn't too long ago I discussed body control over jumps. If you read down far enough you will find it.

Who is Pit Dog and where does he ride?

Pitdog: Why, me of course. This year we are riding most of the FTR Hares and some of the Enduros. Last year I rode almost all of both series plus the SETRA Enduro series. Our club has private land available in Orange City and Davenport. Life is good, ride hard.

Pit dog, hi. I'm a 13 year old Motocross, trail, free rider and I have a KX100. I am hoping to buy a YZ250F for my next bike because I don't feel like doing the top end and all on a two stroke. I was wondering what maintenance do you have to do and if its true that you should tighten the valves every 100 hours?

Pitdog: Adjust the valves doesn't mean you necessarily tighten them. I've not read the owners manual for 250F service but I would personally check them more often than that. Your biggest challenge will be to start the thing unless you are a large 13. The piston time will definitely be longer on any 4 stroke. Other maintenance is very similar.

Hey Pit Dawg, what's up? I wanted to get started in the Hare Scrambles and wanted to know what background color and number I would need for 250 amateur. I've only been riding for like 5 months and that's what my mechanic says I should race. Thanks

Pitdog: I believe you want to start in the Beginner class. Official FTR information comes only from FTR, I'm just a dog. You can contact the Business Manager through this site for more information.

Which MX 125 is best for a short person?

Pitdog: They are all pretty much the same height, not good for a lesser inseam. Tricks such as sliding the forks up in the clamps and turning the shock preload down can lower a scoot some but it messes up the handling. It's the same for every shorter person coming up (including a certain guy name Ricky) so join the club and have fun.

Hey it's me again. On the question about the CR80 and the plug, 40:1 is leaner isn't it? You're saying it's richer, are you sure? The stock plug is a br10eg but I have a BR8ES with 32:1. My plugs are fouling! Should I do 40:1 with and 8 or 9? Thanx a ton

Pitdog: I see you (and a lot of other riders) don't understand mix ratios. It's real simple. Anytime you displace a measure of fuel with the oil, you reduce the said amount of fuel. When you add 1 part oil to 32 parts fuel, there will be less fuel than 40:1 going through the jet. 32 is LESS than 40. Since you have in a BR8ES, you already have the hotter plug. Your jetting is way to fat for the motors ability to make heat or you ride around like a snail. Like I said before, get help jetting!

Hello Pit Dog. I have a 99' XR200. What is the best way to improve performance on the engine? Can I go to MX track on this machine? THANKS FOR THE INFO, Jesse Deaton ( 12 yrs.old, 110 lbs.)

Pitdog: You could remove the silencer end cap for the track but re-jetting will be required. The biggest problem will be the boingers and you can't help them much. If they let you practice in with the beginners and C riders, they will complain about you rolling the jumps. If they let you in with the Minis, they will do the same. The XRs are great trail bikes. They can be a hand full on the MX track. You'd better fill your hand with a true-blue race bike for MX so you don't get landed on. Save the trail bike for fun on the trails.

Hey Dog. I am getting a new race bike to ride in the 125 C-Class. The local Suzuki shop has both the 2000 and the 2001 RM125. Is there a big difference in the performance between the 00 and the 01?

Pitdog: Not that a C rider will notice. Naturally the 01 will have the edge but a very thin one. Think about this, however. How much can you save on the 00 over the 01? In a year the 00 will be worth a $1000 less on trade. I would want to be somewhat close to that on the deal against the 01.

Pitdog, I was wondering. I recently bought a 00 KDX 220R and was thinking of entering a few Motocross races and some Hare Scrambles. Is the bike going to be competitive without any mods?

Pitdog: If it's your first Competition Enduro off-road bike, I think you better get in some practice first. Like a couple of months worth for starters. The scoot was designed for Enduros but it will cross over on occasion. Racing MX will be the biggest challenge, the power and boingers just aren't there. Will it be competitive with mods? Yeah as long as Larry Rossler does 'em full on.

I'm 14, 5'3 about 107 lbs. I need a XR100 and I don't know where to find a cheap one. Can you help?

Pitdog: Like Mrs. Pitdog always says, "It's nice to want things." If you had been just a bit enterprising at 10 years, you could now walk into the Honda dealer and buy one with the cash you'd have saved. But I guess that didn't happen. A cheap XR isn't going to fall out of the sky my young friend. You might as well start now washing cars, cutting grass, fixing bikes, helping the old folks, and telling everyone that you are saving up to get a dirtbike. You'll be surprised how people want to help out a hard working young person.
Start now.

I have a 97 CR80 expert and was wondering which plug heat range I should run for 40:1 and which one for 32:1? Also what do you recommend 40:1 or 32:1? My jetting is stock right from the manual. Thanx a lot!

Pitdog: You should try to just stay with the plug the manual recommends and change jetting to make it burn correctly. Naturally a colder heat range with make the cylinder richer and the hotter one leaner. The effect is small. 40:1 fuel/oil is richer than 32:1. The fuel mix ratios have a little more effect. Jetting has the most effect. If you are trying to learn it for the first time, it would be better for someone to show you how cylinder temperature control works before you hurt it.

I want to clean the powervalves on my 95 KDX 200. I can get everything out except for the main valves themselves. The manual shows the main valve coming out the front of the engine but I can't move it more than a 1/4 inch. Any ideas? Thanks from Toronto.

Pitdog: The carbon has built up so bad on the shaft that you can't pull the shaft out. Sometimes oven cleaner will dissolve the carbon enough to get the shaft loosened up. You'll have your work cut out for you. Those power valves need to be detailed every time the cylinder comes off.

Hey, where can I find a track for riding in Orlando Florida and that has a good price so I can get in?

Pitdog: Good price? You want to 'work the deal' on a riding area for a good price? Welcome to the real world my young friend. You will need a parent and at least $13 to practice at Orlando MX track plus the annual dues. For private off-road areas, you need to join a local club and become a member in good standing to enjoy the fruits.

Dear Pit Dog. I've been looking for several days now for some new stickers for my KTM 125 MX bike. I need new ones because my old ones are torn apart. I would like to know where I can find some over the net to purchase?

Pitdog: Try this site, motorcycle-superstore.com.

What is the best way to clean the inside of a crankcase without splitting the case on a 2 stroke engine? I have just bored an engine and want to make sure their aren't any particles that may cause damage.

Pitdog: This question was recently addressed. Please read down.

Hi. A 2 stroke dirt bike runs best after the revs get up a bit. I assume that it's the powervalve that opens up and makes all that power. What makes it open up, the air going harder and harder thru it as the bike revs up? If so, how can I make it open up faster to have more bottom end power when the bike not revving high?? Also, you always say that pipes don't work unless you have other mods. What other mods are you referring to? Thanks dog...

Pitdog: Two strokes make less power than 4 strokes down low because they have no valves to control the intake and exhaust pressure in the cylinder. Two stroke cylinder power valves reduce flow at low revs to allow cylinder packing then open up to allow more flow at high revs. Holding them closed is controled by spring preload against the centrifugal drive of the crankshaft. Notice the linkage? Opening them sooner makes less bottom end. This is all relative to pressure the cylinder makes from the get go. Low compression, equals low pressure, equals poor performance no matter how the power valves are working. Hows yours? I have said may times that performance exhaust pipes make little difference to stock racing motors unless other mods are made. I didn't say they don't work at all. Cylinder mods have the most effect on performance. More compression and better port timing are the keys. Other mods tend to increase performance in a certain rev range at a sacrifice to others. A serious tuner looks for power across the rev range. Glitter on the bike is just that.

Hi Mr. Pitdog. I have just bored my PE250 and would like to flush out the crankcase to get rid of any particles that can cause future damage. I do not want to split the case to do a thorough cleaning. Can you give me any suggestions. Also, I do not have a manual, but have been running about 1 quart of oil in the crankcase, is that sufficient or should there be more or less. The bike is a 1977 Suzuki PE250. Old but runs great and lots of fun to ride.

Pitdog: If you are trying to remove particles from the main bearing area because of a previous piston failure, you can't. I have filled the area with gas, dumped it out, and cleaned with air pressure several times because of a race the next day. I would expect bearing failure at any minute because the piston particles had already done their damage. Oil does not go in the crankcase on a 2 stroke. A quart of oil in the transmission would be about right, maybe a little over. Call Suzuki service for the exact amount.

Hey, can you tell me how fast the new TTR125 is? Thanks

Pitdog: Compared to what? The scoot is made to have fun on the trail, for the 12 and above riders. Fast is not the object of it's design. I'm sure it's slower than a YZ80 but who cares? Off-road bikes are made for fun not drag racing.

Hey Pit. I am 14 about 5'9", 125 pounds. I have been riding dirt bikes since I was little. I have been riding a KX100 for about a year now. I want something a little faster and stronger but I want a quiet bike because my neighbors have been getting on my nerves about the noise. My friends say that the new TTR125 is a good bike. Do you know if it is a good bike for me? I really want a 125 but don't want one bigger than I can handle I just want power and speed. Do you think you can help me find the bike I am looking for? Thanks for your trouble if you can help me out.

Pitdog: A KX100 is a great race bike for the 12 to 14 year old crowd. If you are 5'9'', you are ready for the 125s. The TTRs are great trail bikes but not much good for racing. The TTR125 would be slower than your KX. You are to the point where you want to get serious about your riding so stop riding in your neighborhood. The cops can make it very hard on you. Go for any 125 two stroke you like and practice in an area meant for riding.

Hey Pit. I have a 1993 100cc Honda dirt bike. I need to know how I can make it go faster for a cheap price? And where do you know, around Ohio (Southwestern), where I can find a place to race and maybe get a sponsor?

Pitdog: How's the song go- beautiful dreamer? You didn't say if it's a CR or XR. If it's a XR, trade it. If it's a CR, rebuild like new, although a 93 still won't be competitive. I have never been able to build a faster race bike for cheap so maybe you need to look up for advice on that. This service comes to you from the Orlando area of Central Florida. We all walk around with mouse ears on to attract sponsors. Try it.

What bike should I buy for my 3 1/2 yr old between the Yamaha PW50 and the Suzuki JR 50? Thanks for the feedback.

Pitdog: The PW50 will have a lower seat height, but then he'll outgrow it sooner. The size dilemma will forever be a problem until they can ride a 125 so get ready. It's only money but a whole lot of fun.

Hey Dog, love your site..I was wondering what mods you have made to your personal KX250? I just got one, and so far I have only ordered Boysen reeds, and a flywheel weight (13oz). I want to make it more like a KDX down low. Thanks... Sean Tupelo, Mississippi

Pitdog: Mine's a 96. It still has the stock reeds. ( Freak of nature). Before the 99 season I had the cylinder re-plated. My tuner said the job was much better than the factory, port heights exact and all. I run a Pro X piston and FMF pipe. Everything else is stock including the springs. We did reduce the front compression stack. Other than aluminum bars and wider pegs, I keep everything else as new and stock. For you, the 13oz flywheel weight will make it a tractor. My friends run 10-12. I'm a big fan of keeping things as close to stock as designed. I just wish Kawasaki would do a better job on their cylinders, it made a huge difference to re-plate.

Hey Pitdog. I am 15 and own a 1998 Yamaha BWS scooter. What changes could I make to the exhaust system to get better performance?

Pitdog: Are you going to ride off-road? Many test have shown that exhaust changes make very little difference to stock motors. Other mods such as larger carb, air box, and cylinder specs need to complement an exhaust change. Yamaha engineers are no dummies. They want their total product to perform as best as possible in stock form. Keep it stock or trade for something faster.

Hey Dog. What do you think about a 88 LT500? Is it too fast for a beginner? Also is $3,500 a good price? It has V Force reeds, FMF pipes, 4" over swingarm, Cool Head, and a Trinity stage three kit.

Pitdog: That's a lot of tricky stuff but it's still a 88. If you look around, you could buy a 98 something or other for that kind of money. Fast yeah. For a beginner, well?

I have a 84 XL80. How much oil should I run in it, and how often should I change it?

Pitdog: The oil cap should have a stick on it that shows the oil level. If it doesn't it has the wrong cap. Change it after 5 hours run time. It'll take about a quart.

I have a 1984 Yamaha DT200 dirt bike. It is a 2-stroke but I am going to buy a YZ250F. I was told this YZ can do wheelies in 4th gear. I am wondering is it true that this bike has that much power?

Pitdog: Your DT would do wheelies when it was new. A new race bike will be a big change for you. Think about your long term goals in selecting a new scoot compared to your abilities. You may want to think about a 125. They wheelie too.

Hey what's up Dog? I live in Tampa and I'm really interested in racing my bike but don't know where to go or how to get started. Any tips?

Pitdog: Florida Trail Riders races throughout the state. Our schedule is posted on this site for the remaining three races this season. You could start out in the Beginner class on Saturday. Bring your parents to sign you up and help you prepare. You should be able to ride for an hour as hard as you can before you start racing Hare Scrambles.

Hey Pit dog. On my '01 Blaster, the rear tires are 21-10-8. I want to put 20 inch Holeshot tires with 10 inch aluminum wheels. Would that work? On the front, I am keeping the same size tires and wheels on the front (21-7-10), but Holeshot fronts, and aluminum wheels. And also, how do I make my Blaster taller in the back, I want that "Bad" look, if you know what I mean. Thanks for all of your help!

Pitdog: I guess that they will fit. You all know, I'm sort of a 2 wheeled guy. Bigger tires will change the final gearing though. Tightening the spring preload will lift the rear but shock action will be reduced. The changes you have in mind will not make it easier to ride, just look different

We really enjoy reading your words of wisdom. My son races MX on a 2001 KTM 125 SX . He loves the bike (what a motor)! except for some rather wicked headshake that can occur without warning on high speed choppy straights. We have the stock fork springs in with the fork dropped in the clamps as low. Rebound is set at standard with compression on the soft side to right at standard depending on the track and the jumps. Oh, he is 5'6" and about 120lb with gear on. Other than this the suspension feels great. I had heard these new KTMs were undersprung up front but for a skinny kid I thought it would be okay. I am willing to try just about anything at this point.

Pitdog: First make sure the steering head bearings are up to snuff. If you bought it new it would be best to repack them now. Adjust the preload as tight as possible but still allow the bars to fall to the sides when up on a center stand. I would play around with fork oil level and rear shock rebound. Try more oil and more rear rebound. Some of the MX guys like their bars rolled forward, above a level plane. If yours are, try going back to level across the grips. Watch his style and see if he is extending his arms on the straights to keep his weight back.

Hi Pitdog. I am 13 years old and have a 1970 T350 2 cylinder two stroke. It doesn't have lights, battery, or wiring. I just want to play around on it anyway, so I don't need lights. It does have wires hanging out from the internal rotating alternator, condensers, points and coils.   These condensers have 2 wires hanging out from them. I need to know how to wire it up. Thanks very much, Aaron

Pitdog: I would search the bike shops for an aftermarket service manual. It will have a wiring diagram. Good luck, you'll need it.

Hi there! I have a problem with my 98 CR125. The other day after full day of riding I landed my last double and the bike started smoking a lot. I checked the carb, filter, rad valve for damage everything looks good. I know it's not the gas because it ran perfect all day plus my buddy ran the same gas in his bike and it was fine. The bike starts every time but it feels very rich with an insane amount of smoke coming out. I don't know what else to check. Please help! Paul. Thanks

Pitdog: Smoke is oil and the mix was the same so guess what? Yep, it's getting oil from the transmission. When you landed the jump a main crank seal popped out. I'll bet the tranny oil is very low now. You'll need a pro to split the cases and go through the bottom end. Be sure to consider replacing the rod at that time because of the age.

Hey Pit Dog. I own a '99 KDX 200 and have been plagued with this nagging problem ever since I got the bike. When I fire her up getting ready for the first ride of the day the plug will foul during warm up in about 1 - 2 minutes. All I can do is stand there and wave as my friends ride away while I search for a new plug (it's quite embarrassing). People have told me that I suffer from "cold engine fouling".I've played around with the jetting to where the bike runs good and the plug has tannish color after a good ride but this problem is driving me nuts. The bike is currently set up as follow: 1174 needle mid clip, 155 main, 45 pilot, FMF Burly with Turbine Core II silence, 14 psi front and rear. Any help would be appreciated.

Pitdog: I'll jump right to the bottom line, anytime it fouls a plugs it's too fat. Does it high idle when you start it cold? It should, that's a jetting clue. Have you removed the airbox top? Not needed unless you are crossing rivers. The 45 pilot maybe your problem but I would test anyway. Try putting around for ten minutes to see how your plug looks. I'll bet it turns black. The 155 main is on the lean side which is probably keeping the plug dry at speed. Also remember to squeeze out the air filter oil as much as possible when servicing.

Dear Mr. Pit Dog:  I am looking to buy a YZ250.  I want nothing younger than a 1996 model. I am saving my money and I am going sell my 1992 Yamaha RT180.  It has new tires, sprockets, chain, seat, fenders, and I am redoing the gas tank. What do you think a good selling price would be. The selling price is going to also include another 1992 RT180 that is great for parts. Thank you for your time. -Billy-

Pitdog: You need to test the waters. The RT is a great little trail bike but not much else. They didn't change much in the years they were made so the new parts matter more than the year. You might be able to get as much as a $1000 from the right buyer but I'm thinking $500 for a relatively quick sale. The parts bike should close the deal.

Hey Pitdog. I have an FMF exhaust system on my 1990 RM125. What should the fuel mixture be?
Also the crank case oil recommended? Thanks.

Pitdog: You could run as little oil as 50:1 but that depends on your jetting. Start at 40:1 and read the plug color. Read down for more jetting hints. 2 strokes don't take crankcase oil per say, the lower end is lubed by the premix. The transmission takes motorcycle gear oil in the cap by the kick lever. Drain the oil every time you ride and add a little less than a half a quart. Call Suzuki for the exact amount.

Hey Pit Dog!  How do you feel about Hondas decision to only mass produce 4 strokes starting in 2002?  Are 2 strokes going away?  Just wanted to know your opinion.  Thanks!

Pitdog: I feel what they are saying is the 2 stroke will be more of a limited product than it already is. Honda is not happy will the success that Yamaha has had lately in sales numbers. They want to be back in a solid lead once again and they are pulling out all the stops. Limiting production of their 2 stroke race bikes tells me that they will be more expensive. Price will allow them to include better technology than their competitors which means a tricker scoot. I think this will increase the demand and therefore return them more profits for a limited production run. 2 strokes will not go away unless the Gore team gets a green in the mix of world politics. I say buy 'em now and keep 'em in the livingroom.

What is the process of cleaning a racing air filter

Pitdog: I'll go with cleaning a foam filter element, racing or not. Foam filters are serviced with oil to increase their ability to trap dust and water so two types of cleaners are used. You most cut the oil down before trying to clean out the dirt so I have always used mineral sprits first. I pour a couple of inches into a cut out milk jug that the filter will fit into. I keep spares so all of them get cleaned at one time. After a couple of squeezes, the oil is cut down but the dirt remains. I keep a liquid laundry soap in a rose sprayer to clean the bikes and everything outside the house. The soap is cut 50:1 with water and does a great job on everything including the air filters. Sometimes it will take two soap applications to get all the dirt out of the filter. You can tell by looking at the grit left on your hands after rinsing. Using foam filter oil, available at most bike shops, I squirt some on the base, sides, and top and fold the filter a couple of times to distribute the oil. On the last squeeze, some oil should be lost but it chases the water out with it. Some riders still use base lip grease on their filters, I don't. Late model filters have a large foam surface where the cage presses against the air box. Proper oiling seals it for me. If you are in doubt, use grease. I fit a filter after every ride unless it was so damp I could ride without goggles.

My son is 6 1/2 and has been riding a PW-50 for about 1 year. He is ready to move on to something with more power. He is 49 inches in height and about 50 lbs. I've been looking at the KTMs racing Vs play-bikes. How much more maintenance does the MX 50s require? He races in the oil injection class now. I'm spoiled with the gas and go PW. I don't mind some work put I don't want to spend the majority of time fixing versus riding.

Pitdog: Welcome to the club. I still wish my pup was on her old XR but she could never win on it. She's had a race bike from the time she got serious and so are the repair costs. I see that KTM has a new water cooled 50 which may solve some of the headaches I've heard of. To me, race bikes are worth their cost and trouble because, well, you can't be competitive without one. The time you spend keeping everything cleaned and lubed will make a huge difference in the repair cost and down time.

Hey Dog! I have heard from many people that it would be a mistake to by a used RM.  They have told me that Suzukis get worn out really fast, and I if buy a used RM it will not have much life left. Do you feel this is true, and are there any bikes that you think I should stay away from when purchasing a used bike?

Pitdog: I don't believe Suzukis wear any faster than their competitors because MX bikes are all race bikes and wear quickly anyway. I've had all the Japanese brands and some European. Keeping every moving part cleaned and lubed is the key. I've always recommended looking for a two year old used scoot because most of the depreciation has occurred and yet some life still remains. Look at stuff like the levers, pedal, pegs, and shock bushings to get a general idea of the hours and maintenance a scoot may have received.

Hi Pitdog. My question relates to 70's era Husky's raced in the vintage class. My 75 250CR and 78 390CR have Bing and Mikuni carbs respectively. Both pull well from bottom to top, with good throttle response at any position. The only problem is when I am in a steady state throttle position, such as going down a fire road at a constant speed. At those times, the engine has a stuttering sound and is a little jerky. Any increase in throttle and they both pull well immediately. It only happens when I try to
maintain a constant speed. Any ideas? Thanks.

Pitdog: Well guess what? My late model KX does the same thing. Again, 2 strokes have very poor flow to the cylinder under part throttle conditions. They generally are rich under the fire road conditions you detail but clean out as soon as you open the throttle. Since you describe your other performance as good, and you need to keep an air cooled motor safely rich, I would stay with what you have. I will just speed up a little when mine starts to stumble or select a lower gear if I'm trying to stay on time. Try reading the plug, after riding several miles with the stumble, to see how it's doing.

How do I get my power band to hit earlier on my 95 YZ250. My motor was ported and polished by P.E., has a P.E. Magnum carb, and a Bills pipe and silencer.

Pitdog: As always, my first question would be, how's the compression? Unfortunately, most riders have no idea what shape their cylinder is in. High performance parts and mods give a motor, well, high performance. Low end power or grunt comes from good old fashion compression. On a 250, the cylinder needs inspection at about 20 hours. The ring should at least be replaced at that time. The important factor is to measure the piston to cylinder fit and condition. I suspect a 95 cylinder would be worn beyond spec under normal usage by now. Having the cylinder reconditioned and a new piston makes a huge difference in low end performance. Cleaning and adjusting the power valves tops off the freshening. How's yours?

I am trying to get into Motocross but I can't make up my mind weather to get a racing quad or a dirtbike. Which is easier to learn on, and which is better for a beginner who wants to learn to ride good soon?

Pitdog: Both of my pups learned to ride on a mini ATV when they were 4 years old. What they learned was how to accelerate, brake, and ride the terrain. When they moved to 2 wheels their bicycle skills combined with their motor control skills and they advanced quickly. The problem with learning on an ATV is you don't need to balance so it doesn't mandate your speed. I think Quads are harder to ride fast than a dirtbike. And besides, when it does go wrong the weight of the Quad is harder to control. Don't jump into thinking you will be a good rider quickly. Make a long term plan

Hey Pit Dog. How can you recommend a YZF250 over a KDX200 for Hare Scrambles when the Yamaha only starts when it feels like it and the Kawasaki will start even it is laying upside down? You should watch how many people YZF250 riders take to the start line so they can kick-start the bike in shifts until it starts. It's a great bike when it's running, but not when you are trying to start it.

Pitdog: Exactly reader. That's also why I commented about the A rider at the Hare Scramble last week. His took several minutes to start. A good start is of the utmost importance, 4 strokes aren't famous for them. After the start however, the scoot with the better suspension would be the one I would want to be on and the YZF has it over the KDX. I'll keep my KX250 and be ahead of both.

Hey Dog. I have a 1981 RM125 that I have it partially restored and realized how much money it would take to completely restore. I have a new top end and engine seals, some new plastic. Bike runs pretty good, but I would like to sell and get into a newer bike. Do you have any idea what I should try to sell this bike for? A lot of people are impressed at the condition of this bike for it's year. To complete restoration it would need a new monoshock and exhaust system.

Pitdog: Bingo. A classic example of trying to fix up a dinosaur. If you could get $500 that would be all the money, but that buyer is going to be hard to find. You probably have more than that in what you've spent to restore it. Cut your losses now and invest in a late model race bike. Keep the 81 for Super Vintage and keep looking for parts in junk yards to bring it up to speed.

My WR400 cuts out after modifications to increase speed and power. I thought it was jetting but this is what I found...I just finished testing my bike w/ a GPS. It begins to cut out at 90 mph in 5th and 72 mph in 4th. I didn't time the lower gears. 5th gear's ration is .84, 4th's is 1.05. That means 5th is 25% higher than 4th and if you multiply 72 by 1.25 you get 90. This means the bike appears to be cutting out at exactly the same rpm in any gear. I tried 160, 165, 168 and 180 main jets with the same results for all jets. This leads me to believe that the "REV LIMITER" built into the WR400 is cutting the bike at a given rpm. It appears that the 180 jet give me better power. I get up to the rpm limit more quickly so I kept in the 180. Please let me know if you agree that this condition is probably the REV LIMITER. Thanks, Ron

Pitdog: Yes, I do agree. What's got me scratching is, where and why are you needing 90 mph? When you tested with the 180 jet, you felt it had better power. Running a motor at continuous high RPMs generates a lot of heat. At that point you needed the extra fuel to control the extra heat. For off-road conditions you will have too much fuel when trying to get the bike to pull cleanly through the middle. This has always been a road-race dilemma that's reared its head when you run your dirtbike to such speeds. I'd tune the thing to run crisp in off-road riding, that's what Yamaha was thinking when they set the limiter RPMs.

If I weigh 180lb, do I weigh to much to be competitive on a 125? Thanks

Pitdog: Bigger, stronger, faster, doesn't work for racing. While you probably will have more stamina for the rougher tracks than a light rider, keeping the bike driving through the whoops and sand will be the issue. Loamy tracks just suck the wheels down on 125s, more weight makes it worse. Hardback tracks will much easier but keep in mind this is Florida. Get a 250.

Hey Dog. How do you check the trans oil in a 94 RM125? There's no oil level check screw.

Pitdog: Darn those factories. Actually, I'd call the service department at Suzuki and ask them what the CC amount would be. Most 125s take something less than a half of a quart. We've always put in a half of a quart in my 125s because the oil takes so much abuse. That makes my 98 just slightly over full. We change the oil after every ride.

Hey Pitdog. I bought a 1997 KX125 with, FMF Fatty pipe, Powercore 2 silencer, Excel rims, Pro-action suspension, Hinson clutch basket, FMF clutch and ignition cover -- not sure it's on the left side though -- carbon fiber reeds, Renthal non O-ring chain and sprockets, gearing is 13t and 51t, the top end and bottom end just got rebuilt and this bike is slower than dirt. I had a 1997 CR80 with a couple mods on it and with 6th gear pinned it was faster than my KX. I also had a 1992 YZ125 with only a PC pipe on it and it was way faster than my KX. I don't wanna sell my KX cause I bought the bike for $1900 last week and got a lot of extra parts with it. I was wondering if you know how I can make this bike scream, RPMs? I do a lot of play riding and I'm always 6th gear pinned. In a couple months I'm going to race it at Dade City and want my bike to be fast. Thanx.

Pitdog: I sincerely hope every one of my readers has a chance to witness this letter. It is a classic example of how much stuff you can put on a scoot to no avail. Some of the stuff has nothing to do with out-and-out speed but is bucks up just the same. The first thing I would recommend is to stop blasting down dirt roads in '"6th gear pinned". That's not what the scoots made for
and it ruins it in short order. Besides, that teaches you nothing about how to ride Dade City. I suspect this scoots cylinder is just worn out. Close inspection should reveal loose power valve parts and plating sections in the bore worn to the aluminum. A motor that can't make nearly new compression, with binding power valves, will be a sled no matter how much money you throw
at it. Get a pro tuner to inspect the cylinder and bring the thing back to new specs, and try test riding a used scoot next time. You bought $1900 worth of glitter, the scoot was free.

I have a 95 YZ125 and it leaks tranny oil. I don't have the time or money to fix it. I have been putting about 3/4 quarts of oil in it so I don't have to change it as often. Could running more oil than spec cause any damage?

Pitdog: My gosh, how much time does it take to change the oil after very ride? OK, your a stock broker and time is money. A simple clutch replacement is $150. A major clutch repair is $700. Buy low and sell high or change the oil after every ride.

Dear Dog. I ride a lot and the closest track is 2 hours away so my bike spends a lot of time in the truck. A friend told me that pulling the front down for long periods of time in transport does damage to the forks. Is this true?

Pitdog: Any time you compress a spring some of it's energy is lost. But it's like uranium, it'll take a very long time. Just the same, I keep my scoots on a center stand and release the tie-downs as soon as possible. Ask any friend to see his Pro AMA tuners card or take advice with a grain of salt, even from me.

Hey I have a 01 CR80R. I was wondering what kind of pipe you would recommend for it?(FMF or Pro Circuit)

Pitdog: Neither, unless you are making engine mods and jetting changes. You must consider this, those guys at Honda are no dummies. They want their stock bike to give world class performance along with traditional Honda reliability. FMF and Pro Circuit are some of the best aftermarket companies in the world. What they offer, however, can make little difference to a stock
motor. You need to make a comprehensive plan to add performance to your scoot in relation to your riding ability. Glitter won't make it faster.

Hey, I just realized that my previous question about the KDX200 and the YZ250F was really obvious, ooops. What I was trying to figure out is which is better for a 14 year old who is 5'11" and weighs 170lb.  I also have a lot of riding experience but have not been racing Hare Scrambles that long.   Do you think that the 250 would be a wise investment. Thanks!  

Pitdog: So much has been written about the new Yamaha 4 strokes is clouds my opinion. Since I have yet to ride one, I can't really give a direct comment. It will be a learning experience for everyone including a certain A rider at Gainesville last Sunday. Wisdom is time.

Hi Dog. How can I slow down a KX80 for a new rider? The bike is a 1993. This bike is quick and I don't want to scare my son off of this bike from the start. I think that as soon as he can get comfortable with the power he will be fine and I would adjust the power upward as he progresses. My son will be 12 in June and is an average size kid. He is excited about his first ride and I would like it to be a great experience, I remember my first ride, which was one of the best days of my life.

Pitdog: You are in an extremely difficult position and I will be in the same when one of my pups turns 11. The majority of 12 year olds have come up through the ranks starting out on PW50s, then to KZ60s, and finally the race 80s. The KX80s are pure race bikes, nothing slow about them. The only thing I could possible think of would be to restrict the exhaust tip to reduce flow.
This may require re-jetting. Also think about having a pro tuner check compression. A 93 probably has a worn bore which will make it even harder to ride smoothly.

Hey Pitdog, I was wondering if a 88 to 92 YZ250 were good bikes? I was wondering if there is a way of finding out, in a four stroke engine when it smokes, if it's the rings or valve seals?ps: It has good compression.

Pitdog: Back in the late 80s and early 90s the 2 strokes were good bikes. Today they are worn out dinosaurs. On the four stroke, if it's air cooled, the rings and the valve seals wear quickly. Valve seals fall apart before the rings, however.

Pit Dog, thanks a million for this service.   I have a year 2000 WR400.  I've eliminated the throttle limiter, eliminated the exhaust baffle, moved the needle valve clip to the 4th position, removed the breather cover, and put in a 180 main jet. The bike runs great including full throttle until it gets close to max RPMs.   Then it rapidly cycles through hesitations as though it is not getting enough fuel. Do I need to go to a 185 main jet?

Pitdog: Thanks for the accolade, the Web Master and I put in a lot of time on this. I think you are correct in your main jet theory but you may also be bouncing of the rev limiter. I had the same problem with a 4 stroke I built which we could never solve. It was more of a surge instead of a hesitation. When I tried a larger main jet it wouldn't pull through cleanly from wide open low revs, however. We think it needed a bigger body carb to match the major engine mods. You may not have that particular problem. Work on your jetting by riding a section over and over and reading the plug for best results.

Hey there MR.DOG. I have a 93 KX500 and it drinks fuel like crazy. It does this even when I ride light to moderate. I haven't checked the floats yet but will do so soon (possible cause). Could I change the jetting to a smaller jet? I don't mind a little power sacrifice seeing this thing will wheelie in 5th gear with me sitting on the tank. Also, I was wondering where can a get a larger tank and a lighting kit/coil for dual sport modifications for this bike? Superbiker0690.  Thanx

Pitdog: You may be running out of time to buy aftermarket stuff for that year scoot. Try Baja Products, White Brothers, or A Loop. 2 strokes waste a lot of fuel at part throttle. That's because of the pour air flow in and out of the cylinder. Needle position will have the most effect for part throttle performance. You most read the plug during any changes to be somewhat safe
and that won't give you less power, maybe more!

Pit Dog. I am installing a FMF SST pipe and silencer with a Rad valve on a 00 RM125. Any advice on were to begin with carb jetting? My son weighs 110 lbs. Do you think it is worth the cash to install a 5.0 or 4.8 shock spring? Any advice on setting the front and rear suspension for his weight would be welcomed. Thank you much. Mark W.

Pitdog: That combination burns both ends of the candle. I would buy some jets and plugs and take him to his favorite riding area for jet testing. Every motor is different and so are riding styles. Take the time to read the plug, listen to the motor, and ask him how the changes feel to get the best set up. He's very light for the stock spring settings. The manual has the recommendations for proper spring set up. You will probably need lighter springs front and rear depending on his skills and if he rides off-road, MX, or both. Faster riders want more spring, slower riders less.

Hey Pit Dog. I have a 85 RM125. I like the suspension hard. How do you think I should set it up?

Pitdog: By taking your bike to a pro tuner and telling him what you are looking for in performance. Your weight and riding style will also be part of that choice in settings. An 85 probably has some very worn components so it would really help them to be brought up to speed. Other wise I predict you will be you know what in the wind.

Hey what's up? I have an 82 CR125 and 79 RM125. I know I have no chance racing MX at like Dade City. Are there any other things that I can do like Enduro, etc.? Thanks.

Pitdog: What you have is stuff that's probably worn out on the most part. The problem with that will be trying to keep the things running, not the fun you can have in any type of event. Enduros aren't as taxing on a scoot because they are not speed events, but you are still riding for maybe 4 hours at one time. That will show 'the proof in the pudding' related to the scoot's age and your preparation.

Hey dog! Which is a better bike for Hare Scrambles, a 1996 KDX200, or a YZ250F? Thanks.

Pitdog: Let's see, your comparing a 2001 state of the art four stock with an Enduro design 2 stroke that was aged in design when new in 96. I know I'd have fun on either one but the YZF has better boingers. Need I say more?

Pitdog: I have a 1998 RM125. I know a guy that races pro and he told me to use Ford Automatic Transmission Fluid for my gear oil. He said this is all he ever uses and said to change it every 10-12 hours of riding. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to using this instead of regular gear oil? Also what is the stock number of turns for the air screw on my 1998 RM125. Thanks for your help.

Pitdog: Back in the old days, I had to use 50% ATF with gear oil in my Husky to get the clutch to quit slipping. That was because the 400 had such a small clutch and it over powered it. I mixed the oil because ATF does not have sheer resistance to protect the gears. Straight ATF will advance you gear and bearing wear. Pros may not care about that because their motors come apart for inspect so often. Does yours? I use synthetic gear oil to handle the abuse of the clutch temperature and change the 125 after every ride. I've never rebuilt a tranny. Nuff said. The air screw will stop having an effect after about 2 1/2 turns out. You should have your pilot set up to use about 1 turn of the air screw, on an average temp day, so you can go either way when necessary.

Hey Pitdog. I just bought my son a 1993 KX80 and I am not sure what the proper fuel mixture should be. Can you help me out? The previous owner told me he ran Motul brand oil with 14 oz oil and 4 gallons of fuel.

Pitdog: My calculator says that's about 37:1. You owners manual probably recommends at least 32:1. You really need to read his spark plug after he rides to see how the jetting is working with any recommended mix ratio. I would personally set a 80cc jetting to run 40:1. Read down for more jetting and mix ratio hints.

How can a 01 KX500 weigh less than most late model 250s?

Pitdog: From what I remember it doesn't unless it would have aftermarket subframe, hubs, fork and so on.

Hey, I am 6' 3", 220lb and have a 400EX. How should I set up my suspension for woods racing and playing around on jumps? Thanks.

Pitdog: You can't. That is, the set up for MX to off-road is not the same. Most riders like stiff spring settings, more compression, and light rebound for MX. The spring settings may work for off-road but compression and rebound aren't desirable. I'm not sure what the 400EX suspension allows you to do, the rear shock may allow some settings. For an A rider set up you will need aftermarket bits.

Wazzup? I have a DT50EC and I want to know how to make it faster. Please help, Nicke

Pitdog: Nicke, you fell and hit your head. The scoot's made for learning to ride and fun on the most part. It will never be fast compared to a race 50. Trade it.

Hi Pit Dog. I have a 1996 ATK 605ES. I am having a jetting nightmare. Some days it runs lean and some days it runs real fat. It seems to have something to do with the weather. The cooler the fatter, the hotter the leaner so it seems. I am running a 60 idle jet and a 182 main and right now my needle is on the second notch from the top on a 40 mm Del Lorto carb. Is this Rotax really this finical with changes in weather? My friends 1994 605cc does the same thing. Oh yeah, to rule out timing, I check it often when its acting up and it's dead on. Also I have a lot of compression and I did a leak down on the cylinder and the valves are tight. I checked that because at one point it was so lean it spluttered through the carb when it was running. I have been playing with it for weeks now and it seems to run the best at 75 degrees. If its cooler it runs fat and loads up bad. The plug gets real black and sooty. When we had the recent warm weather the plug was real light tan. I like the bike, it runs good, but I am really tired of trying to get it dialed in. Also what do you think of the Husqvarna TC610, are they a good bike? I want a lighter more powerful bike. I am a large guy so a 500 2 stroke is like a 125 to average size riders. Thanks for your help, Riderx1.

Pitdog: What you are up against it typical for large air cooled 4 strokes. I added a large oil cooler to the one we built and it barely handled the extra heat from the extra power. If you add one to a stock motor I predict better results. Also be sure to use the highest octane fuel you can find. A little race gas would help tremendously. I've never had a chance to ride a Husqvarna TC610 but their product is world class these days. When you increase the capacity of your ATK's oil system and introduce cooling, you will find the jetting a lot more stable.

Would a 2000 DRZ400 be to heavy for some low key MX duty or will I just tear it up? Also, what engine/suspension mods would help it on the track?

Pitdog: Let me be the one to say that any scoot is good for fun on any course as long as fun is the objective. I once rode a stock XR200 at Big Scrub to within an inch of it's life and we still howl about that ride. I can't see how you would do any damage to that scoot riding MX but it might do some damage to you if you mess up a landing. For a little more MX prowlness,
remove the spark arrestor end cap just for the track. Re-jetting may be necessary with this. Start out with the compression settings at 75% of the clicks on and try to find a compromise. Surely the stock springs would not give much resistance to crusher landings but changing them would mess up your off-road set up. If you ride it for fun, fun you will have.

Pit Dog may be barking up the wrong tree on the 94 Suzuki 125. That model was the second year they used the twin chamber fork design, it requires a special tool to correctly measure the oil height in the outer chamber. This tool can be purchased from your dealer or you can rig one your self. You'll need the dimension from your shop manual but basically it's just a spacer that positions the inner tube the correct height for the measurement. The outer tube level is adjustable, the inner is not. All this effort will be rewarded this was an excellent fork on a great bike. Fresh oil front and rear will make this sled a whoop eating monster!

Pitdog: Good stuff. Yes, as hard as it may seem, the Pitdog has not seen the inside of every component of every scoot ever made. Sometimes when I write a suggestion I'm just hoping someone like this reader will write in and say 'hey bonesnatcher' that particular system works like this. The Pitdog is honored to have readers with advanced knowledge.

Hey. I'm 5'11" - 175lbs, and I'm wondering which size bike will be best for me. I'm considering the 2001 Honda CR125, CR250, or the new Yamaha YZ250F. I do mostly trailriding and occasionally some riding on the track by my house.

Pitdog: I would think the CR or the YZF. You're a little heavy for a 125. Your neighbors will like you better with the YZF with the stock silencer more than the CR.

Hey Dog. I own a 1996 KX125 - bone stock. What is your opinion on the best pipe for that bike? I want more low end power. What hop up parts should I buy and which is the best tire for Supercross style races? Thanks. Rick

Pitdog: The FMF Fatty has been the most popular for better low to mid power from stock. I feel most of your scoots power loss is coming from lack of compression considering it's age. It's a better investment to bring your existing cylinder up to new condition before trying to hang on expensive parts that give no help to low compression. Tires aren't chosen for the style of track, they work according to dirt conditions. Smart racers carry intermediates and softs on rims with them ready to set up for conditions.

Hey Pit Dog. I own a 01' Blaster ATV, and I wanted to know what I can do to boost the power and speed. What about a pro-circuit pipe kit with a Boysen Rad-Valve? And, would 18" Holeshot MX tires with 100mm ITP rims fit on the rear wheels? Please Reply

Pitdog: The pipe and the reeds will change the power characteristics for sure. Re-jetting will complete the tuning. Are the 18" Holeshot tires shorter or taller than stock and does ITP make rims? I don't know but they don't call them "Holeshot" for nothing.

My son has a '98 PW80. How can I get more power off the line? It's a little sluggish-he's only 60lbs. Also are there any aftermarket companies with performance parts? Thanx

Pitdog: I haven't experimented with that motor but here's some thoughts. Look hard in some scrap yards for a pipe from a performance bike that will retro fit to yours. Aftermarket parts will be few and far between. A crafty welder can bend and add sections to finalize the fit. Lots of power is found in jetting on 2 strokes. Think about removing the oil injection and using mix gas with a jetting change. Of course a compression increase will get you the most change. This can be done by calculating cylinder and head clearances to remove metal. Overall, I'm still not much of a fan of making a scoot something that it was not designed to be but you may have your own reasons. When power goes in, the durability goes out.

Hey Pit, I just bought a 01 CR250. I weigh about 160lb and I'm 5'6". What is a good suspension setup for a tight SX-style course? Thanks.

Pitdog: Stiff. Your stock setup should be close. Follow the recommendation for rear spring settings in the manual. Set the compression so that you can feel the bottom on the most severe landing on each track.

Hey Pit Dog, I wanted to know if it was OK to rotate the Michelin 120/80-19 tires. Thanks!

Pitdog: I believe you mean switch tread direction. Yes, but you will advance the possibility of chunking knobs because of flex direction. I might do that to get one more ride.

Do you know of any MX tracks in Florida that allow four wheelers in.

Pitdog: 4 wheelers do run practice and races at the Florida tracks. They practice with the C Classes. Your scoot must be a racing style, however

I'm an Italian guy. I have a Suzuki RM 125 1994 model. I have a problem with the set up of the front fork. When I land from the jumps the fork collapse. I'd like to have the factory regulations (oil level - oil density). I'd like to have information regarding how can I fill the fork and how I have to make the measurement of the level. Thanks very much,
Lorenzo.

Pitdog: Your best approach would be to find out if the oil level now in the forks is the problem. Loosen the top cap before you remove the forks from the triple clamps. You can now remove the cap and the spring. With the fork compressed look in the tube for the oil level. Using a small ruler measure the distance of the oil surface to the top of the tube. It should be something like 140mm. When you purchase the oil buy 2 liters of 5 weight. Use 1/2 of a liter to flush the valveing. When refilling the fork pump the unit to release air and check your measure. Other service requires pro knowledge.

I just bought a 01' CR250 and I live in Florida. I was told by the dealer that the bike is lean from the factory. Do you know what can I do to fix this and get the best out my bike? Also, I will be using regular gas.

Pitdog: Traditionally, 2 strokes scoots are rich from the factory because they would prefer that the cylinder run cool for break-in. They also read Pitdog and know about the number of squids out there that are dying to blast down a road just to see how fast it will go. Nevertheless, each and every motor is slightly different and so are riders styles. This means you must listen and look at all times for proper temperature signs from your 2 stroke. When you look at the spark plug, the color should be a dark tan or gray. An oyster color like your keyboard is too light. A lean motor will sound pingy and have a varying idle. Correcting a lean motor is a dark science if you are a rookie. Best get some pro help until you catch on. I can tell if your bike is lean when you just ride by me. Ask your Honda guy what his tuning background is and use at least pump high test by the way.

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