Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - how to prepare, bike setup and maintenance.

Pitdog. How can I get more power to jump a 70 foot triple? I ride newly rebuilt 97 CR250. The 3rd time I tried it I broke my collarbone and 3 ribs. By the way, will it help to run 110 octane fuel.

Pitdog: A 70 foot jump is no problem for Pastranna and his 125, and you have more motor! I think you fell on your head one time before you broke your collarbone. Work on perfecting the jump landings you know you can make before trying risky landings. High octane fuel is an instant cure for high combustion temperature. It is a control factor to allow radical tuning. Do you have that problem?

Which bike would win in a drag race? A 98 CR250 or a 87 YZ250? All my friends say the YZ will win.

Pitdog: All of your friends have the totally wrong impression of what off-road scoots are built for. The only rider I've ever seen at a drag race on a dirtbike was the guy that won the wheelie contest at Bithlo on his CR500. He went like 30MPH all the way down the track with his wheel in the air. Crowd loved it. Neither bike will win the drag race but both riders will lose because they crossed the line of good sense with their off-road scoots.

Hello Pit Dog. I ride a 98 KDX 200. It blew the clutch side crankcase seal. Inside it shows very little wear. I am getting ready to split the cases. Should I change the mains for insurance? Thanks Rick R.

Pitdog: I have found that crank seals leak because the crank bearings have some looseness. This causes vibration and of course the seals leak. At this time, take a close look a the big end of the rod to the crank. We look for the amount of twisting motion along with the back and forth rocking when thinking about a new rod. Now would be the time for that too. Have you split cases before or are you getting help? It's a little trickier than say a car motor.

Pitdog. I have A 2001 KTM 520SX, what tire should I use to get more bite in dry to semi wet dirt.

Pitdog: Have you every driven by Race Rock in Orlando where the Monster truck sits by I-4? I'm thinking one of those tires. But since your rim is a little small, how about the Michelin M12? In this part of the Southeast, we use the S12 because of the dry sand that becomes loamy. When I think of regular dirt I'm thinking a mixture of clay and rocks that packs down. This would have an upper layer of loose dust or slime depending on how long since it rained. Sand tires like the S12 have a tendency to skitter across that surface because the knobs flex. The M12s knobs are stiffer which gives better contact response to harder surfaces. Scoots like the 520 are going to go through tires much faster than a typical 250. You'll have a chance to try a couple of different types if you run a season series, while my 250 would use one.

Where can I find a jet kit for my 4 stroke dirtbike?

Pitdog: A 'kit' per say, isn't sold for dirtbikes in general because they are mostly adjustable from the factory unlike street bikes. Common replacement parts like the pilot and main jet are right in the parts books at the dealer. Most dealers carry an assortment of the most common jets in the stock.

I am looking for a good XR50 dirtbike.

Pitdog: And your question is? Did you take it in your room that's so messy that you couldn't even find something so huge as a dirtbike? Or, how about looking on this site at the Ads section, the newspaper Ads, or even for a new one at the Honda dealer. A brand new shiny one sells for about $1,300.

I just bought my first race bike, a 94 RM125. On the engine's left side it's got a large adjustment looking screw that the previous owner said adjusts the power curve, tight for more lower end and looser for more high end. What exactly is it and how should it be adjusted?

Pitdog: That adjustment is for the power valve spring preload. During mid range RPMs, if the power valve opens too early it might bog before it hits. If the valve opens to late, the power will be smooth but the hit will come later. This adjustment depends on all other factors being good, such as compression and jetting. What you want is a happy median. You'll be chasing your tail, I've been told, if you think it's a cure all.

Hey. I just bought a Dirtbike and I live in Tampa, FL (Carrollwood area). Are there any trails or places for me to ride close by??? Please help!

Pitdog: I'm afraid private areas are the only thing you might find. Your best bet is to join your local FTR club listed on this site so you can contribute to their projects and get in on some of their fun rides. Never ride on land without permission, the law might impound your bike.

How do you ride a wheelie on a dirtbike, and do you think a 1987 KX 80 is a good bike?

Pitdog: Riding a wheelie isn't a science or an art, it's a skill. Therefore, someone can't just show you how to do it. This means you must practice. Start out on your bicycle because when you fall, and you will fall, you won't have 150lb chasing you to the ground. If your bike has a hand rear brake, use it as you pedal instead of trying to stop pedaling when you pull it up. This is needed to maintain consistent momentum. You will eventually be able to use that understanding of balance and momentum after some time, maybe years, on a dirtbike. A 87 KX80 is only as good as the maintenance it has been given after all those years. Do all you can to keep everything clean and lubed. How it runs is only a matter of money.

Pit Dog. Do you know where I can find a transmission for a 79 Kawasaki 100 dirtbike?

Pitdog: You didn't say which model so I'm guessing the KE. Also, I don't think you understand that the transmission is not a part you just replace, the transmission gears work inside the engine cases. Once you find someone to give you a quote to take it apart and make a parts list, then you will find the repair is bigger than the cost of buying something like it that you can ride for less money. You've got the ball.

I asked you about adding a silencer (to improve sound) to a stock 2001 Honda XR250 and you said it would be a waste of money without engine modifications. What engine modifications would be necessary and what are the benefits? You also suggested to take the stock end cap off of the pipe (to improve sound, which it does) but I must remove the spark arrestor also which makes it illegal where we ride in California. Thanks for your help again!

Pitdog: Notice I said remove end cap for racing. Around here they let us race Hare Scrambles and MX without a spark arrestor. Stock motors depend on back pressure to ensure cylinder packing and correct carburetion. With a stock motor you can cause an incurable bog with a more open exhaust. The cure for that is more compression of course to replace the stock engineering of exhaust back pressure. Carb re-jet or resizing go along with that. The pit falls are, you will always need higher octane fuel, engine life will decrease, stress to other stock parts will multiply, more attention to tuning and maintenance will be needed, you'll work less and ride more :). I built the motor from doom on a four stroke one time. It was so different from stock
it sounded some sort of huge 2 stroke. It blew up in the first 20 hours because R&D Products forgot to tell me the springs were for pro application and should be replaced every 10 hours. That meant carving another piston and cylinder head to match with new valves. Big bucks! I could never get great performance off idle but it killed on top and in the middle. The point for you is this, Yamaha has spend a zillion bucks developing a 4 stroke 250 that Honda has been building for years. Their product is a result of all the state of the art science of 4 stroke tuning. Their engine was built from the ground up not a hot rod cylinder on a TTR block. Your motor has been around in the basic design for something like 20 years. Hot rod the cylinder if you want but don't cry when you loose some of its good character, or the extreme when it blows out the bottom.

Pit dog. I have a 97 DR350SE that started to run very hot and burn out spark plugs. It is all stock jetting and carburetor settings so I took the top end apart to find the problem. I need to know how to set the timing. The top end was fine and appeared to have no problems what could the problem be and how can I set the timing?

Pitdog: I knew right away you were barking up the wrong tree, as I'm always told after I'm wrong. You can set the chain back on correctly by aligning the exhaust and intake lobes at the same angle when the piston is at top dead center and ready for the exhaust stroke. The intake is just closing and the exhaust just begins to open at that time. For your stator, try to find the washer marks from the last position and start there. You can use an auto timing light hooked up to a battery to double check it when you get it running again. I'll bet money your original problem is a dirty carb with some partially clogged jets. Burned spark plugs on a stock set up means that the combustion temperature was very high. Lean or clogged jetting will definitely do that. Your experience with your basket of motor parts now has been a lesson in testing for the solution instead of blind disassemble. Welcome to the club.

How can I take the corners better?

Pitdog: I've already written a lot on proper cornering techniques so read down for more insight. I will say, have you set your bike up for the conditions? That would be a sand tire for sand at 12 lb of air. A lot of riders think that they need to maintain the steering through a corner with the front wheel. Ever notice the tire on one of those magazine shots of a bike test? The tire is not touching or barely touching the ground. Once you are back on the gas in a corner the rear force from the driving tire controls the direction that you will go, along with your balance of course. A great place to practice cornering is around a lake area because it will be flat and consistent. Go find a place that you can do 100 laps, you'll be better right away.

Speaking for all us Pit Dog fans, we really appreciate your free advice. My questions is about the steering head of my 1-year old DRZ400. With only half the FTR Hare Scrambles season on this terrific bike, I took my WER dampener off to change the fluid. In doing this, I noticed a notchy feeling when moving the steering back and forth slowly. It's only noticeable when moving it real slow, but there is some notchy resistance. It almost feels like the steering head is too tight, or the bearings are dry. Before I start what will be a major project leading up to the next race, should I really be concerned about this?

Pitdog: Absolutely. I have never seen a scoot come from the Japanese factory with more than a swipe of grease on all the bearings that are serviceable. If the steering head, swing arm and other moving parts that take grease have not been apart, stop now and do it or get it done. We have five races in the next six weeks. The steering head bearings on your scoot may already be toast. Doing that kind of work is really easy and should be done when the scoot comes out of the crate. The steering head does have a preload setting and should drop left and right easily when on a center stand while still being as tight as possible. All other bearing areas just take bolt torque. By the way, thanks for the accolade. While I've been exposed to many types of motorcycle service procedures, I'm not all encompassing just resourceful. I have a number of world class tuners and industry types I check with on my answers so I hope to be as much help as possible with a little humor to keep it light. Thanks.

Hey Dog, I want to get into trail riding so do you think a 91 KLR650 with 8000 miles on it for $1300 is a good deal, and is it a good trail bike?

Pitdog: Sounds OK to me but I'd have a pro check out the important stuff like the transmission and general engine condition for proper operation. Major repairs to these areas would bury you in the money saved on a newer model. The 650 class Dual Sport scoots make a good ride for those dirt roads and minimal areas of off-road usually seen at a Dual Sport event. When the trail gets tight or the traction goes away, it's a handful. Also the shock is a bit weak for all that weight of the KLR. On the other hand, the big motors don't have to spin as hard to maintain a 60 MPH pace on the open road which helps to make those boring miles slip by. With a better shock it's a good trial scoot for a strong rider.

Pit Dog. I just got into dirtbike riding and I want to hop up my Yamaha TTR125. Could you tell me what I need to do to increase speed and h/p?

Pitdog: Once again, I'm just not in favor of increasing the speed of an off-road scoot. They are just not made to haul butt down a road. If you're looking for more grunt here's some tips. Jetting from the factory is usually fairly lean on a 4 stroke. Start by moving the needle clip down to get more grunt down low and in the middle. Do plug checks before and after each change. Sometimes cam timing can be set for more grunt but you'll need a pro for this mod. But really, are you already riding the wheels off that scoot? If not, use its friendly feel to practice getting through the trees with good balance. When you perfect that ability, you will be ready for more power from a stronger motor. Trade, don't mess with that one.

Hey. I live in Broward and can't find any good places to ride my KX250. I grew up in Charlotte County and the riding there is the best. Do you know any places I could go?

Pitdog: Country boy in the city. Wasn't there a movie about that? I sure there are some private areas, you just have to find the guy that knows the guy that knows the owner. Easier than that would be to join the FTR club that's listed on this site in your area and find out what you can do to help them. Then you will know the first guy.

Will a 91 KX250 rear hub or rear wheel work on a 91 KDX200?

Pitdog: It's the wheel guy again. Probably not. The brake, axle, and swing arm are all different but it's close. Have someone fab the bearing spacers and change the bearings so you can use the KDX axle and brake fit.

What's up Dog? I own a 2001 KDX200 and I was wondering what I should go with to beef it up to a killer. I also heard that you could have it ported to 270cc. Is that true? What kind of products would you recommend? Thanks for the info Dog.

Pitdog: I say, did you buy that scoot to ride it for what it was designed for, or to spend time and money on it to make it some fantasy bike? Cylinders are not ported to make them larger, they are bored. I once rode a very trick KDX 200 just to compare it to a stock KX250. This one had all the proper cylinder, carb, exhaust, and suspension mods. The KDX is one of the worlds best production Enduro scoots but it falls behind when the going gets tough. Even this one couldn't cut the fast stuff. Putting more motor in it would press its limited haul the mail handling even more. The power from the 200cc is a perfect match for the legs as long as big whoops are few and far between. If you are riding it for all it's worth and still want more motor, buy something production that will fill your need for speed. Don't ruin a good stock KDX.

This is for the guy that wanted to know about the YZ426. Man get the 426. I like mine way better than my YZ250. FOUR STROKES are the future!

Pitdog: I just want my readers to know I'm not against them, just not for me.

Hey Dogg. My name is Matt and I ride a 2000 KX80. I have a couple of questions. First, when I'm riding behind a slower rider and decide to pass I have a hard time, even though I'm faster than him. I've already wrecked two other riders because of this. Also, I was taught to pull in the clutch when shifting gears but I noticed that some riders don't use the clutch when shifting. My father says if you shift without pulling the clutch in it tears it up. What should I do?

Pitdog: First of all, always listen to your dad. I mean after all, who bought the bike and fixes it? Nuf said. Now, congratulations for at least trying to be considerate when you pass other riders, even if you did wreck. Your problem is focus. You are focusing on his back tire instead of looking down the trail so you could set up for what's coming. When you look ahead you will see lines and opportunities that he didn't see because that's one of the main things that make him slow. Look for an open section coming up and make your move to get beside him on the inside line so he is forced to the outside and off the gas. Putting that wheel in is fair warning that I'm faster so let me by. Now on that clutch-less shifting. If you match the engine speed with the drive speed the next gear will fall into place. This, however, is very hard to do all the time. Anytime that is done without the clutch transmission damage can occur. That's the chance you take and what your dad doesn't want to fix. A good off-road rider has a finger on the clutch at all times anyway so that movement during shifting is not relative to your progress. Shifting without the clutch may look and sound cool but it's dumb. Always focus on riding with perfection in your style, cool is not it.

Hey Pitdog. I have not ridden (MX style) for about 18 years due to lack of free time. Now at age 38 I have plenty of time. When I used to ride, I rode a RC500 and I loved that 500cc power but now I hear the bikes are much faster. I was thinking about getting a CR500 or KX500 but a friend said it's too much bike for an old man like me, and to get a 250. I don't want to be starving for power. I guess what I mean to say is, will a modern-day 250 feel slow compared to an early 80s open classer and which 500 will be better suited for MX and trail riding?

Pitdog: First of all welcome back. Now on the 500s - none. For trail and MX riding you need to be either a monster or have a style like Mike Phillips to take advantage of it. Mike loves 'em, most of the rest of us hate 'em. There's one thing for sure though, any time you open the throttle you will move forward with deliverance. I'm not sure you meant to say you had a RC500, unless it was a road bike, but comparing 500s today, no they are not that much faster, just smoother. In our events, what you will see on the starting line, if you have a choice, would be mostly 2 stroke 250s for all ages. A 250 would be a bit slower than an '80s open bike at top end but the spread of power is so much better it would be no contest on the course. I know, Shane Watts can ride anything fast to win but he likes the 125 most of all. Then again Aussies are a little, uh, different. For us older riders 250s are perfect for when we wear ourselves out and just need good smooth power to carry us home. You won't go wrong.

Hey Dog. Besides all the base line settings, you know, correct springs, ride height, static sage, do you re-valve a 2-stroke different from a 4-stroke? Also, how much time do I need to put on a new Yamaha to break in the suspension? I have heard that it takes a lot longer on the YZs than on the other brands? Any truth to any of that? What's your take on all this?

Pitdog: First let me say that when you buy a MX bike, it is set up from the factory for a groomed track for an average rider weighing less than 150 lb. Since most 4 strokes are top heavy, many riders complain about the front being too stiff and hard to keep in a turn. That would be the result of suspension balance and the high center of gravity. Re-valving should play the same part for you with a 2 or 4 stroke, it's just that you can't change the center of gravity on either scoot and that's their primary difference. Now, since a fork and shock have slider type bearings, they are forever breaking in until they become too loose and need rebuild. Any rider will need to make minor changes to his settings as that wear progresses from the very first hour. Because the wear factor, or break in, reduces with time, your changes become less frequent. I don't believe Yamaha products are different from other brands in their intended wear factor but I do believe they come stiffer than say a Kawasaki from the factory. The bottom line is they all have around 20 clicks of standard field adjustment capability to suit your needs if you are average. I run standard springs on my MX scoot with less slow speed compression in the valve stack, but hey, I'm an over weight, old, A Enduro rider not an average MXer.

Hey Dog! I am 14 and a very good rider. I ride a 1996 KDX200 with a FMF pipe and Boysen reeds. I would like to race in a Hare Scramble but I fear that I don't have enough experience. I have never raced before, and am also not sure how to go about entering a race. I know my bike is capable. The guy I bought it from raced it in the Alligator classic and did alright. I just want to hear some advice about racing in a Hare Scramble, and stuff. I would appreciate any advice you could give a new racer. Thanks

Pitdog: How does the old saying go? The only thing to fear is fear itself? We have a class in FTR for riders exactly like you. That is, they are gaining confidence in their skills and would like to try racing, it's called Beginners. The class is set up for first time racers so you can expect to see some very slow riders. I know, a couple of the guys haul butt, but they're Sandbaggers. If anybody does good in the class they get promoted out quickly. Usually beginners have more of a problem following the arrows than with the trail itself. That's where you'll make silly errors and tip over or go the wrong way. Hare Scrambles are designed to test your ability to make instant decisions unlike MX where you practice and remember most of the track. It's very hard to remember 6 plus miles of track. This is what makes it so much fun. My best advice is to practice looking out as far in front of you as you can. The more you look down the less you are ready for what comes into view. As you get better, your ridding will become more instinct. You'll begin to see and plan ahead because you trust your instinct. Then you will win. ( Sounds like life in general huh?) Oh by the way, bring your parents to sign you up.

Dog. I have a 96 CR125 and when I open the radiator there is this white stuff floating at the top. What is it?

Pitdog: Oil. On most 2 strokes the water pump is driven in the clutch cover. Since the cover holds oil, the water pump shaft has seals to the rotor where the coolant is. When the bearings wear out the seals don't hold and oil gets into the coolant or vice versa. You must now replace those bearings and seals and clean both systems of contamination. Don't run it until you do.

Hey dog. I just bought my son a used 97 Yamaha PW80. It's a 2 stroke. A Honda dealer I stopped in on to buy oil from, says I can use 4 stroke Yamalube motor oil as gear oil. Is that true ???? thanks ....

Pitdog: Yes you can use 4 stroke motor oil as gear oil. That goes in the transmission by the way, not with your fuel mix. Don't confuse yourself and mix up the gear oil with the premix oil. The oil that goes in that little tank is injected with the fuel. The gear case has a fill hole and drain plug for maintenance. Buy a manual.

Hey Pit Dog! My name is Steve. Could you tell me what the best possible jetting is for my bike? I have a 2001 Honda CR125. The stock settings are: 380 main, 45 pilot, 6BEG20-68 needle, 2 1/4 air screw. I ride at sea level and the temperature is anywhere from 50 - 90 degrees. The bike is totally stock aside of an FMF SST pipe and Shorty silencer. Thanks

Pitdog: Once again, nobody can recommend jetting numbers without testing. Most aftermarket exhaust will change the requirements. Even says so when you buy the product. Temperature can make a huge difference mostly because cooler is dryer. Your style of riding, where you ride, and what conditions all affect jetting needs. Start by doing practice laps on your favorite section of track and read the plug between motos. Open your owners manual and follow what it recommends about jetting according to the plug color.

Dear Pit Dog. I have a 1994 YZ80. What is the proper mix ratio for this bike? I use Maxima Castor 927 oil for mixing.

Pitdog: You could run as little as 50:1 or as much as 28:1. My tuner suggest no more than 40:1 for small bores. What ever you decide will have a small effect on the jetting. You must know what your plug reading is before changing mix ratios. If the scoot is new to you start with a higher number, which results in more fuel, and work down to find performance and a good plug color. Buy an owners manual.

I just moved my son up to a 99 CR80 from a XR80. I want to tone down the new CR. What are my options? Are electronic rev limiters or throttle stops available? If so, who are the manufactures? Thanks, Rob/Naples.

Pitdog: I know what you're up against. One of my pups will go from a XR50 to a 2 stroke 80. Won't that be a shock? Maybe you could try a XR throttle assembly that has the stop screw built in on the CR. I don't know if it will fit the cable and bar. If anyone made an electronic control they would have a wrap on a very select product and cost would be on the moon. Think about tuning the main jet as fat as it will stand without stuttering or fouling plugs. This will reduce the hit for him. The best help you can give him however is to start him on a small flat figure eight so he can refine his throttle control, braking, and turning skills. Bring him up to speed on the basics and he'll surprise you.

Yo Dogg. My brother and I got new CR125s, (our first bikes) about a 8 or 9 months ago. When we ride together he always kicks my butt at the track, he is about the same age as me too. Pit, I really suck considering how long I've been riding and it really bothers me. What do you think the problem is? Maybe Motocross just isn't my sport.

Pitdog: Well, this is a first for the old dog. Physiological analysis of why two people aren't the same. I'll compare it to this. Have you ever had anybody say to you "man, I'm glad you're not like your brother," especially if it's a babe! As you were growing up I'm sure you were close to equal in the things you could do. Now that your bodies and minds are maturing, you're gradually growing apart in your abilities and your ideas. I'll bet money there is stuff that you are better at that makes him jealous. Do you think that bothers him? Darn right! Your big problem at the track is your focus is on staying with him instead of getting practice perfecting your style. Forget about everything else but riding correctly with complete focus when you practice. Take a class at the track if you need to. Always remember, the most important person in your life is you, then your family, friends, dog, girlfriend, and so on. Focus and dedication to training is the key to anything you will do in life. Start now.

I have been wanting to visit the Croom off-road park in Florida and I have some questions. Do you have to have spark arresters at Croom and what are some of Croom features? Do they have a hill climb?

Pitdog: The only time we have been required to run spark arrestors at Croom is during the yearly Enduro outside the park. That is standard for Enduros anyway. This may change if the dry season has an effect on play riding there in the future. The features of the park include, an open pit area for jumping and general MX practice, tables under trees for your pit, a pavilion with water and heads in the rear area, a camping area with water, power, showers and heads in the rear, good open marked trails with some tight sections for off-road practice, lots of whoops to set up your suspension on, and yes, some great hillclimbs in old mining sections. Croom has been rated a top off-road park in the Southeast.

Hey Dog. I am 16 and have been ridden 125s for about 4 years. I am thinking about getting a 426 or a CR450, if they make one soon. I would like to know what you think about them and what kind of rider should get one? I go through bikes fast because I ride a lot and would like to know if a 4 stroke would last a little longer? Thanks for answering all my previous questions.

Pitdog: I rode Sunday with a rider on a YZ400. We fun rode the Crooms park at a 90% pace. I was surprised that he was right there on that 400 because he's not an A rider. He is fairly young, 30s, an excellent Mountain Bike rider and in excellent condition. He could make up the time he lost in the tight sections with the all out speed he could get in the open sections. When he stalled it we laughed and waited. This is my point. A less than A class rider can really cover ground with open class power. When it gets tight, skill takes over and the power/weight becomes a disadvantage. Are you strong enough to haul the mail in open sections to make up for the tight trees and able to restart that thing when you tip over? This is where you answer lies. Also, the pistons do last longer on any 4 stroke but the other maintenance is the same plus you have to adjust the valves.

Hey Pitdog. I need to know the procedure on tightening and loosening of 98 KX 80 forks? They don't click like a CR does so I don't have any indication of how much I've tightened or loosened. They might be wore out and just don't click now. Thanks a lot.

Pitdog: I've seen that on the KX100 and didn't understand it either. You'll need an owners manual as much as I would.

Dog. I have a 1999 YZ250 which fouls plugs on cold engine starts. I bought the bike new and have had the problem since I bought it. I use 92 octane pump gas mixed with Yamalube R at 32:1. I use b8ev or b8eg spark plug (b8eg stock). The engine is totally stock. I've leaned the jetting down to a 38 or 40 pilot (stock 50) and have the largest diameter needle with the clip in the leanest position.

Pitdog: That's pretty darn lean. I'd start with checking the spark timing. This takes a dial indicator so you might need a pro. Also inspect the reed plates for wear. How does your plug look after a hard practice? How much wear do the piston and cylinder have? You might need to lean the main down and then go back with larger pilot and needle to find proper jetting again. Also, do small things like repack the silencer and clean the power valves. You could also test with a b9 plug but it might be to hot for straight sections

Pitdog. How can I get more low end power out of my 94 YZ250?

Pitdog: First, is your spark plug tan or gray when you look at it? Do the inspection after a hard practice lap and do not allow it to idle or run slow. A lot of power is lost with simple jetting corrections. Read down for more jetting hints. The bad news is, I suspect your cylinder bore is so worn that it just can't make decent compression at low revs. Have a pro do a compression test.

I have a 87 Kawasaki KDX200. Yes, I know it is an oldie, but it is beauty and can still kick some butt. I am having trouble with my kick starter. It wants to push through without really grabbing anything. I have popped the side cover off and inspected the kick-start gear, idler gear, ratchet gear, clutch gear, and so on, and it all seems to be solid. All the gears mesh well, and there is no obvious wear. It has a brand new, (4 hours non-racing) top end, so I am confident the compression is good. What am I missing? What do I need to look at next? Thanks Dog!

Pitdog: Something's causing the ratchet gear dogs not to mesh with the gear. Inspect kick shaft bearings for looseness and in-out play. Inspect gear dogs for wear on their pivots and wear to the points. Remember, even if the parts look good they will not line up if shafts, case bosses, or bearings are worn.

Dear Dog. I have a 1990 KX250 and was riding about 2 months ago when the throttle stick wide open. Well, because of that I apparently blew a head gasket. I removed the motor, opened it up, and found the cylinder scored and the piston the same. I opted to have the cylinder re-sleeved that came with a new piston, rings, and all new water pump parts to boot. Also, I replaced both throttle and clutch cable and new chain and sprockets. Well, I took it out and it was riding great. After riding for an hour or so guess what happened? The bike started to idle faster and faster so I shut it down. After spending what I had just spent to fix it, I did not want it to happen again. I let it sit for a while then restarted again. It was OK for about 20 minutes and started to do it again. I was running a mixture of 28:1 for the break in of the motor. When it happened the first time 2 months ago I was running 36:1! I'm using Maxima Castor 927 pre mix oil. This is really driving me crazy. Any help, Dog, will be totally appreciated. Thanx Paul in Naples.

Pitdog: Your first failure was a piston seize which you thought was a head gasket because of no compression. In most cases, the motor will endure a stuck throttle for the period of time that it takes you to get to the kill button. You're real problem is the jetting is to lean, and you compounded that when you ran the break in mix at 28:1. Putting more oil in for break in was a bad move because you reduced the gas, that's leaner! I've never been in favor of those sleeve kits because they reduce the cylinder's ability to displace heat. It came with a larger water pump rotor in an effort to increase flow. Re-plating the cylinder is always better and you get to use the standard piston size again. You may have already hurt your new piston. Remove the exhaust pipe and use a light to take a look at the front of the piston. A compression test will also be relative. I suggest 50:1 oil mix for 250s. This will start you on your way to richer jetting but you must test and re-jet. Read down for my discussions on jetting. You must shut the motor down whenever it starts to idle up and solve the cause. Start by reading the plug.

Hey Dog. I have found a 98 RMX250 that has never been serviced or run for a reasonable deal. I would like to know how that bike runs in the dunes? I am willing and expect to put a pipe and silencer on it and a new reed (Probably a V Force). I know that bike doesn't have as much on top as the RM but how much less? I am not a high flyer but I will be attempting to launch this scooter. Any info would be helpful.

Pitdog: The RMX is not that bad of a scoot, ( I had a tricky one), it's just not cutting edge compared to the RM. With the lighting coil rotor and gearing, the hit will not be like a RM but maybe that's good for riding loose sand, (dunes)? Think about changing the front sprocket one size smaller and replacing the springs to keep the thing up on your launch landings. Be sure to get your jetting corrected for optimum performance after all those changes.

I recently purchased a 2001 Honda XR250. I would like to change the pipe to give it a better sound. A friend of mine says to change the silencer only and not the header pipe. Do you agree and if so what
brand would you recommend?

Pitdog: None. Test of stock motors have shown not enough of a performance gain without other engine mods to make an aftermarket silencer worth the money. An aftermarket header pipe may actually cost you performance with a stock motor. You could get some more sound without the stock end cap, and that's free. I know you will loose some weight with aftermarket, and it looks trick, but you can't get better durability than factory Honda. If you think that the minor weight savings will make a difference in your riding, buy a silencer designed for Dual Sport so you can control the sound. Or you could just remove the stock end cap for racing.

Hey uhh, how do you do a tail whip? I can get it sideways but I can't bring it all the way back and I usually wreck. Any suggestions?    thanx

Pitdog: Just like any great landing you have to able to direct the weight of the scoot and your balance back to center line in order to keep from piling up. I suspect you are directing too much force into getting the wheel out of line. You will need to keep your body weight more over the bars so when your push the tail back around, the scoot will follow your body weight, not vice versa. I would practice this more on a bicycle starting with a cross-up and graduating to letting the tail hang out more and more. You are trying an advanced move without understanding the balance needed to land it. Good way to get a cast or plate to talk about instead of riding.

Hey Pit. Where can I get chain and sprockets for a 1980 YZ400? Also, the rear suspension is adjusted as hard as it will go but it bottoms out on larger jumps. I weigh only about 150 and it is still to soft.

Pitdog: Nearly all motorcycle parts stores will order you parts like that for your older scoot. Count the teeth on what you have to decide if that's what you like, and belly up to the counter with your money. I suspect the shock has lost its nitrogen so it will need a shock service by a pro. Regular air will NOT work. Also, the shock could be so worn that the oil just by-passes the valves. The pro can tell you that.

Pit dog..... Every time my brother, my dad and I race or ride, the same thing happens (and I know that this probably happens to other people as well). On the spot where our knees rub the gas tank or the shroud, it turns black. Almost like the colors of our pants are scratching into the plastic. I was just wondering if there is anything made specifically for this problem, that would get the black off our bikes. Thank you

Pitdog: Yep, this happens to everyone. I feel it's a combination of dirt, pant material, and the decal itself that leaves those marks. Soap and water takes the dirt off but chain lube, exhaust spludge, boot, and rub marks take something stronger. I've always used mineral spirits to detail my scoots, after washing, and then some Armor All or the like to bring the shine back. Car polish and mild compound will also do the job. You could protect your plastic with the clear material but it rips easily when touched a lot. Those marks you make are the sign of a proper riding style so you'll see them of any good rider's scoot.

About how fast does a KX80 go with a FMF fatty pipe and a Twin Air filter go? My sprockets are stock. Also how fast does a Yamaha 98 200 Blaster go with a Pro Circuit pipe and a Twin Air filter? Thanks.

Pitdog: About as fast as your ego will allow. Off-road scooters aren't designed for top speed, so that becomes a non issue to most riders. I will say the KX can be ridden quicker on a MX course or among the trees, while the fool on the Blaster would make more time going straight down a road. This however would be an accident looking for a place to happen. Keep off-road scooters off-road and forget about the top speed thing.

I have a 2000 Polaris Trail Blazer and I would like to know what kind of pipe I could put on it to make it sound better?

Pitdog: Like better than a giant Humming Bird? Those bikes make sounds from more places than the exhaust which include the transmission. Also, because of the nature of their design, a lot of other engineering is in play to make it run smoothly. I'm afraid replacing exhaust parts to make it louder will reduce its ability to run smoothly plus put heat and strain on the transmission. Your neighbors and other trail users will like you more if your Humming Bird sounds factory.

Where can I get a rear hub for 91 KDX 200.

Pitdog: I would ask my brother, the junk yard dog. Finding the exact hub will be difficult at best. Look for a complete rear wheel, that is a close match in scrap yard, and fabricate the rest to make it fit.

Pitdog. I have a 2001 YZ125 and I want to know how to get more bottom end.

Pitdog: Boy is this case for getting a 250. You have a brand new, tricky, state of the art 125 and you want more? I have all the proper mods with a fresh piston on my pup's 98 YZ125 and it's still slow as Christmas on the bottom. Well, compared to my 250 anyway. So what we have is this. The factories have made incredible progress in small displacement 2 stroke motors lately. The worlds best tuners can do little, other than compression, to make them better. You could modify it for more compression but be prepared to rebuild the crank every ten hours.

Hey Pit Dog. I might be get a TTR125 and I want to know how much the suspension can handle. Do you know if I could get 3-7 feet of air without breaking any thing or if I could tighten it so I could. Chris.

Pitdog: I saw a rider at Hardrock jumping the MX track on a TTR250, and he was kind of a big guy! A good rider can do amazing things with lesser equipment. If you're not the best, great equipment will protect you and itself. I not sure if the TTR has spring preload in the rear but spacers can be added to the front for preload. I would focus on getting a scoot that will satisfy my needs for a certain period of time to reduce the loss of having to trade right away. The TTR was not designed for MX duty but it's a super trail bike.

Hey Pitdog! I've been saving up for a motocross bike for a long time. I had one before but I out grew it. I have about $2000 saved up. What you think would be the best kind of bike to get out of my money? I'm looking maybe along the lines of a 250, but I can also invest it into a Ski-Doo cause I live up north. What's your opinion? Talk to ya later. Thanks.

Pitdog: Scooter or Ski-Doo. Let's see, which one can I ride all year long especially when it's warm and dry? Nuff said. For $2k you should be able to make a deal on a 96 or 97 250. You must be very careful in selecting one with a good cylinder, clutch basket, and other major components because those type of repairs will eat up the difference in money to a newer model. I've always suggested buying used scoots less than two years old for serious racing on a budget. Play riding and practice are another story. Make a plan and do your homework to avoid disaster.

I tried to start my 2001 XR400 for some snow riding the other day. It was 35 degrees out and my son's XR70 started right up. I began w/ full choke always no gas always TDC. After a while and some frustration, I actually consulted the user's manual and it said after a few failures you must decompress, hold the throttle wide open and kick it five times - then try again. Actually 1/2 choke seemed to work better. I tried some starting fluid too, back fire, no start, and thought was a pretty mean thing to do to a brand new bike. Any tips would be appreciated. Last time I rode was about a month ago so I assumed that the gas would still be fresh enough. Thanks, Bruised Ankle.

Pitdog: Dear Bruised. (sounds like Dear Abby). Seasoned 4 stroke owners from the great white north carry Sterno to preheat their motors while they down a couple belts of Jack Daniels and a Power Bar on those cold mornings. (hey guys)! I noticed a lot of riders kicking 2 and 4 stroke scoots last Sunday morning at the H/S here in Florida. It was 30 degrees. I leaned both of my 2 strokes over to flood the carbs and mine started right up. Here is the point. With the factory lean setting on your XR, even with full choke there's not much fuel there. A cold cylinder makes it worse. My 2 strokes have very lean pilots but we like the performance that way. Your 4 stroke would enjoy a little re-jetting I'm sure. Usually they like more fuel than factory settings. Of course the Sterno and the leaning over are short cuts.

Hey, what's up Dogg? It's me, Terry West. I have the 91 CR125. I was wondering if you knew any ways to give me more torque or low-end? I already put a Pro Circuit pipe and silencer. I don't want to bore it out. Maybe I could change the carb settings, put a new reed on, or get different sprockets. Right now I have stock settings on all those things.

Pitdog: Your suggestions for more low end are good. I'm afraid, however, that most of the lost power is in the cylinder as it would be on most older scoots. Do a quick compression test before you start throwing money at it. It's that old dog, new trick thing.

Hello Pitdog. I have a 99 KE100 and can't see to find the carb. Where are they on these bikes?

Pitdog: It's fuel injected! Not really. It's a really simple design, (and old), where the carb is attached to the engine case. If I remember correctly, you can make minor adjustments from outside it's cover on the right side of the engine.

Who let the dogs out? Pit dog did! What's up dee, owe, double gee? How you doing? I'm 16 and I purchased a 1980 YZ125. Don't laugh, I just wanted to get some riding experience on some kind of bike and to bomb around with my friends. Hey, if I had money I would get a lot better bike. Anyway, my bike has barely any power when accelerating. The bike will not even do a wheelie on pavement in 1st gear. I really want some bottom end speed on that thing. A lot of people told me if you put huge carbs or dual carbs it would greatly increase power, acceleration, throttle response. Can you tell me how to get some power out of this thing. THANX :)

Pitdog: Think about this. How far does a garden hose shoot water, twenty feet? Now, how far does a sewer pipe shoot water, two feet? A bigger carb will sacrifice flow at small throttle openings which in turn will reduce a good fuel/air mix to the cylinder. Then you will have, yep, less power. Not too long ago I wrote about the plain fact that compression and spark propagation are the keys to more power. I'm surprised that your 125 even starts if it won't wheelie in first. The sad fact remains that once you find out how much it's going to cost to get that old cylinder to make compression, you could probably buy a scoot that does run for the same money. Now, since money appears to be a main agenda in your life as much as wanting more power, think real hard about how you can solve this. Sixteen, full of energy, hum.

Pit Dog. Are there any aftermarket performance/suspension parts for PW50's? I bought my 6 year old son one for Christmas and he is already jumping and doing no footers. He would like to start racing ASAP. I am also looking at selling it and getting a more advanced 50cc bike any suggestions would be great.

Pitdog: Just your son's ability to do jumps and no footers shows he's ready to move up. The PW50, Yamaha's number one selling product of all time, was designed for the little guys to learn. I'm talking 3 to 6 years old. I've seen parents try to hot rod their kids PW50 for jumping but they end up breaking the rear axle. Would that be a designed in limitation? So now it's that time. Spend some money on a new scoot so he can outgrow it in a year. It never stops 'til they're on their own. KTM, Cobra, and LEM seam to be the major players for what you might be needing. I would go to the FTR PeeWee race and do some asking around for what's working best at this time.

Hey Pit Dog. My name is Terry West. I have a CR125. I was wondering if you could help me. I have been racing for a while and I can do all the jumps, etc. When it comes to turning I have a hard time. Could you tell me the proper method of turning so I could fly into turns and blast out of them?

Pitdog: The school for flying and blasting starts at 10 AM on Saturday morning at most MX tracks. Call yours. There they will clue you in on proper bike set up before they zip tie the front of your helmet to the cross bar so that you keep your weight forward. This is the key, but riding a unicycle is not easy the first time you try it either. The balance required is similar so you must practice, practice, practice.

I bought my son a 95 YZ80 and have a few questions.   First how do you check the dang oil level? It does not have viewer or stick.   I have to drain the oil and replace it almost every time we ride to make sure it is at the proper level.  Second what is the proper volume for a 95 YZ80? I was told it was about 19oz.  This a lot and when I filled it with 19oz the clutch started to stick.  Lastly, how do you tighten the shock on this bike? It seems really soft.   Thanks Dog!

Pitdog: 19 ozs of dang oil? That's a little much. Most 80s and 125s take a half a quart or less. I would think 10 ozs for that model. I'm not sure, but you might find a check bolt on the clutch side of the case. This bolt will have a brass washer and is used as an overflow point when the scoot is standing level. I would change the tranny oil after every ride anyway on an 80. By tightening the shock I presume you mean spring preload. This shock should have a collar holding the spring that can turn down on threads. I would take the shock off to service the end bearings, clean, and inspect. It would be well worth having the shock serviced by a pro at this time. Since some of these things are a mystery to you, buy a manual as soon as possible or grab a handful of money and just throw it at it.

Hi Pit Dog. Can you help me with a problem I am having with my y2k KTM250EXC. It is eating spark plugs, (fouling), at a high rate. It seems to run very rich no matter how weak I set up the carb. Have you heard of this before?  I am running an oil mixture of 50:1 (synthetic). Any ideas? Thanks in advance Andy Wade andy@a-weld.freeserve.co.uk

Pitdog: Since you're from the UK, I suspect the fuel available to you is not so good. Without changing jets you could switch to a 32:1 mix and use a synthetic blend oil to increase combustion temperature.

Hello Pit Dog. I hope you can give me some guidance. I am getting ready to purchase a new off road M/C. It will be used for trail riding and probably be licensed for dual sport riding, 99% off road. I had a 93 DR350 off-road, licensed. It was a great trail bike, but suspension and top end speed was a little lacking. I am thinking of an XR400, or DRZ400E. But what do you think of a KDX220? I am 6-2 and 220lbs. It is about $1000 cheaper. Also what would be more powerful, I haven't ridden a 2 stroke in 18 years. Thanks--Jim O

Pit Dog: The only one of your choices that come with a title is the Suzuki. The others have only an MSO. The DRZ400 has made several advances which bring it up to speed of the XR400. Plus you can get the magic button. The KDX220 would be your best choice for off-road but not so good for street, and the title thing is a pain. The 400s are more powerful but not as easy to ride in the tight stuff like the lighter KDX. I would have kept the 350 and bought a shock and cylinder mods. The DRZ400 is my pick now but oh the money!

Where is the air screw on a Honda 400ex?

Pitdog: 4 strokes have the slow speed mix screw on the intake side of the carb body because it's a fuel screw not air. Got a manual?

Pitdog. I have a 91 DT125 and it will do 96 mph. I mainly use it off-road and the power valve is kicking in too late so there is not enough grunt to pull out when I get stuck. Could you make any low-cost suggestions that would improve the handling or performance. What would be the best tires for it as it's a trail bike that goes out in snow, through streams, or anywhere that will give me a challenge? My dad is also hoping to get a 89 YZ250 will this have too much high end power for trail riding.

Pitdog: I had to grab my full wet suit when I read the part about 96 mph. I suggest removing that super charger and nitrous bottle to improve handing and just keep it stock so it will last. You found a power valve? Your best bet would be to keep everything in top working condition. The Perelli D.O.T. knobbies work very well with that type of scoot. An 89 250 anything would make a great economy trail bike as long as it's in decent condition.

G'Day from Oz. I have been looking at a few of your readers questions and have one of my own after getting no response from Pro Circuit in USA. I have a 2000 YZ250 which is fitted with a Pro Circuit platinum pipe and 304 muffler, the needle position has not been altered both jets have been dropped down one size from standard and the bike is run on Avgas 113 octane and Yamalube at 30:1. Could you guys suggest any jetting or fuel mixture combinations you have used so I can give them a go. Most places we ride are generally less than 100 metres above sea level and the bikes really fly. Also I have noticed in the back of my ute after returning from riding, 3 or 4 drops of a thick black goo from the breather hose.thanks for any info shanetindall@bigpond.com.au

Pitdog: The only unit I would use Avgas in is an airplane. I would think you would be better off using a mix of car race gas with some high octane pump gas. Running the mix at 30:1 is what is saving you from fouling plugs. Pro Circuit probably didn't respond because your question can only deal with plug inspections after running and they, or I, certainly can't do that for you. Pro tuners use cylinder temperature readings, ( test system from cart racers), to observe ideal temperatures and visual inspection of the plug, ( like the rest of us). You could probably run your mix at 50:1, with a good pump gas if it's available, and get the same performance your are getting now. Nobody is going to suggest jet sizes for you because every scoot is different. The goo from the power valve hose is from the 30:1 oil ratio you are now using.

Can you tell me how to make my XR100R go faster?

Pitdog: Hold the throttle open. Did you know that your bike is the number one training scoot for the best racers in the world? XR100s are used all over the world for control training. This could only mean that they are the best at what they can do. The overall focus of Honda, for the XR line, has been to provide a fun bike with a high degree of reliability. This means the power that they make will match the engineering of the rest of the bike so it is very hard to wear it out. If it did make more power, then stuff would start to break beginning with the spokes and ending with the engine cases. My question to you would be, how much money do you want to spend to make more power so you can spend more money fixing stuff? Do the maintenance to keep it fresh, including valve adjustment. Spend your funds on a real race bike.

Howdy Pit Dog. Are you using intermediate tires at Hard Rock or staying with the sand tires? Thanks

Pitdog: Reading the layout reviews from the site, I see that it's like 5 miles of trails and 1 of the track. I rode the SETRA series last season with the S12 Michelins and got good results. I'll stay with the softs. Besides, it's only money.

Dear Pit Dog. Although I know you prefer two strokes, do you know who is the best mechanic to work on a KTM 400 E/XC? I have a 2000 model that needs a basic tune-up. I would prefer to find one in the Central Florida area if possible.          Thank you, Mechanicless.

Pitdog: Hum, you've bought yourself a tricky, high maintenance scoot and can't work on it? Not my idea on fun on a bike stand ready to ride. Your World Champion class scoot is one of the most service intensive ones I know of. This means it's going to be a pain to call someone like, Greg of K&P Cycles, (407.656.9686), after every ride. Beside that, he's going to say, sure bring me your motor and I'll have it ready in a couple of weeks. Or you could always take it to Wag's shop at Cycle Sports, they are the dealer. My best advice would be to take a little time to gain the knowledge to do your own minor maintenance, or get Wag to trade you for a KX.

My son's 1999 KTM65 starts in two kicks when cold and does not need any choke after a few seconds.  However, when the bike is warmed up and into the trails, higher revs are not perfectly smooth, but the midrange notes seem flawless.  When he is on the gas coming out of a turn, I notice some chops in the music coming from his exhaust.  Do we need to fine tune his jetting?

Pitdog: Again, the small displacement scoots change quickly with the weather and how they are being ridden. If the midrange sounds good on the trails but breaks up with full throttle, I would do some testing in a roundy-round section where you could listen to full throttle every few seconds. Trail riding has a tendency to cloud the motor, an open section keeps it clear. I would protect it with slightly rich jetting.

Dear Pit Dog. I recently purchased a 2001 YZ80 for my kids (13, 15, & 16).  I ride a Suzuki DR so my 2 stroke tuning skills are rusty.   The dealer recommended running a 32:1 ratio and I figured better safe than sorry.   So I bought what looked like some good oil (BelRay H1R synthetic) and I'm mixing it at 32:1.  The kids are beginners so they bog it and it smokes a bit, but I've checked the plug and it looks real good (clean, dry, light brown) and the little thing runs like a champ.  The problem is that I get a lot of black goo dripping from the end of the exhaust pipe and dripping out of a small hole in the silencer.  I hate to think of what the inside of the pipe must look like.  Will going to 50:1 fix this or should I throw away that BelRay H1R? Tired of cleaning back goo.

Pitdog: I'm not a BelRay fan so take that as it may. If you go to 50:1 you'll have to change all your jetting set up leaner to make up for the fuel in the mix. The real reason you are getting a lot of drool is, your riders just aren't getting it on the pipe enough to heat up the exhaust. That YZ is a true blue race bike being ridden by beginners. I would expect nothing less. Since you say your tuning skills are a bit rusty, I recommend switching to a full petroleum base oil that will have a better chance to burn off instead of trying to come up with compatible jetting at 50:1.

Hey. I ride around my house and I wanted to build some jumps. What type of jumps should I build? How should I jump them? (What gear and how to approach it?) I want some good size jumps, (20ft to 40 ft). I ride a 99CR125.

Pitdog: Huge, big, knarly ones so you can crash your brains out the first time you try it so your Mom and Dad never let you ride again! You may think I'm kidding but I'm not. Jumping is a learned skill so impress your parents, don't disappoint them. I've written about how to jump before so read down to find it. Building jumps is a new subject so here's some tips. Start with really small ramps so you can get an idea of what the bike wants to do while you get a little air. A long approach will be better than a short mound. As you are able to correct your landings with your body english you will have mastered that ramp size and ready to move up. Move up in ramp size marginally and don't make doubles until you have mastered your landings. Never, ever, try a jump that someone else does but you are not sure of. Always be sure of your skills. Your ability will come quickly.

I have a 2000 KTM65SX. I just put an FMF pipe on over the holidays. I also have put a set of reeds in it over the past. I am worried about jetting. The bike runs the best it ever has. I have check the plug and see no real color on it. I don't want to run it too lean. Do you think re-jetting is required.

Pitdog: You are very correct to be concerned about your jetting. You need to see a tan or gray color on the plug porcelain for correct jetting. The smaller displacement scoots are sensitive to atmospheric air changes, however, so having it spot on every day won't happen. You should start now on working with larger main jets until you get it to stutter on a straight. Write all the sizes down as you try them and what the air temperature and humidity are at that time. Your best performance, with safe jetting, will be just before it stutters. Of course the air temp and humidity change all that so write it down and tune like the pros.

My 96 YFS200 Blaster has a FMF gold series fatty pipe and DG silencer. When I rev it up in neutral it will hold a high idle and go ding, ding, ding... What do you think?  What size pilot and main jet should I be using?   Please help! P.S. I checked and there is no apparent air leaks.

Pitdog: Being a 96 and an air cooled motor you'll have your work cut out for you. There is no standard for jetting so you must use your ears, (you've done that), and your eyes. Air cooled motors need to be slightly rich to protect themselves. Start by moving the needle clip down so the needle will be richer when you go to that high idle. Always check the plug color before and after any changes. You must have the motor under load, (ride it), to check jetting. Driving it slow or idling destroys the test. Every motor has different needs for fuel, therefore you cannot get spot on with someone else's numbers. The age, aftermarket add ons, where, and how you ride are the main factors.

Where can I find information on the stock settings of my '89 RM125.

Pitdog: You might be able to still get the factory owner's manual from Suzuki, so call your local dealer. If not, ask him about an after market manual. They usually cover several years and have helpful hints too.

Hey top Dog that knows it all!!  I would like to know if a Pro Circuit silencer would work on a Nollen pipe. I have the pipe on a 98 YZ250. And the other thing that I was wanting to know was, how hard is it to change the fork oil in KYB forks? Thanks for your time Dog!!!!  Paul

Pitdog: In general, most exhaust manufacturers make the fit the same as the factory. I wouldn't purchase a unit without the ability to return it if it doesn't, however. Changing the fork oil isn't that hard. Loosen the top pinch bolts on the triple clamps so you can loosen the fork cap before you take the forks off the scoot. When you unscrew the cap from the leg you will see a locking nut under the cap. Hold the nut with a wrench through the spring and turn the cap off. Notice the way the flow valve sits on the oil tube before you turn the forks over. You can now take the spring off. Compress the fork so you can measure the oil height before you turn the leg over to pump all the oil out. It will be about 5 inches. Adding or subtracting oil will change your set up so you should know your exact height before you dump it out. Also know from your manual what the range is. If you buy two quarts of fork oil you will have at least a half a quart to much that you can use to rinse the valves with. When you refill the fork to the exact height, work it some to clear the air out. I do recommend that you have a pro do your forks and your shock at least once a year for constant balance of your suspension. If you could observe a tuner doing a fork oil service you will see it isn't that hard. Huge mistakes are easy to do, however.

Hey Pit Dog. I have an old (1982!!) DR125 and I love the little bugger, but my rear shock is totally wasted.  I've called a dozen different shops and no one seems to be able to order a shock for me.  It's to the point where I really can't ride the bike at all.  I weigh 165 lbs. and when I sit on bike I'm about 3" off the rear wheel.  Any advice?  Do you know of another shock that is interchangeable?  Are these things able to be rebuilt, or is there another solution?   Thanks ahead of time - Caleb

Pitdog: The only way to get a new one would be to have one made. That would cost as much as the scoot is worth. Your best bet will be to look for a used unit. If you couldn't find the exact one, then look for one that has the same length and have a welder fab the mounts to fit. You need to be creative on something that old that is just for fun.

Hey there Pitdog. Do you know the proper compression for a 91 RMX250? I am just about to purchase one and the seller said he did a top end on it. I am taking my compression gauge with me and would like to know what the minimum compression is. Thanks in advance.

Pitdog: With the thick gasket in place, barely 140. With the thin gasket, at least 160. You'll be very lucky to get a 91 to read like new. The wear on the cylinder bore will be the problem.

What's up Dog? I'm getting a set of new tires soon and I race Hare Scrambles. As you know the woods are unpredictable because of the giant area they cover. I'm looking for one that will be good and I don't have to change every race.

Pitdog: I'd go with the Michelin S12 because of their light weight and good wear characteristics. Change ever race? You must be related to Hooper.

What would happen if you put a little car octane boost in a dirtbike?

Pitdog: Not much. This is an extremely complicated issue so I'll keep it simple. If octane boost was the real deal, gas companies wouldn't have to crack their fuel as much. What octane boost does is to help control combustion temperature which allows lower octane fuel to burn at a slower rate. This controls the rate of destruction from pre ignition. In the science of horsepower tuning, these elixirs are known as snake oils. Spark propagation and compression are the primary goals to more power. Adding anything to the fuel only REDUCES available particles that will burn in a certain volume. Higher octane fuel will contain more molecules that will have a chance to ignite under compression, if the spark propagates and the compression is there.  This reasoning also explains why jetting is so important. Too much fuel and the flame goes out, too little and it never explodes.

Dear Dog.  Sorry about not being to specific with the KTM jetting info. Maybe I've been spending to much time leaning over the race gas, or just  the proximity to green bottles!  Anyway here goes. Kawasaki throttle slide part number 16025-1216 KHP throttle valve#7. Needle- NOZ I (2nd clip from top), 180 main jet, 48 pilot jet. This assumes you are mixing your gas between 32-1, to 40-1. *Note; the #7 slide will fix all 2 stroke KTM's, however jetting will obviously vary.
AARF! AARF!

Pitdog: More good stuff from the readers. I hope this jetting works with pump gas.

Hello Pit Dog. I came across this Yamaha DT200WR, what do you think of it?

Pitdog: That model didn't come up in the memory bank of my local Yamaha buff.

Hey Pit Dog and Race Tech guru. In response to the insight on my 99 KTM 200MX/C sputtering, which Kawasaki model has the same slide? Thanks!

Pitdog: The slide info came from a reader. I'm a guru, ( fur substitutes for robe), but I don't represent Racetech. Check with them at, www.racetech.com.

Dear Dog. In response to the puppy with the 99KTM 200MXC and his jetting problem, those who know would tell him to throw away the stock throttle slide (#6), and replace it with a #7 slide. Don't make a mistake and buy it from KTM though, it is the exact same as the one used by Kawasaki at about $90 less. Now you can begin proper jetting which will be very close to stock with the middle sized needle (supplied with original jet kit), 2nd clip from the top. This has worked very well for everyone and without the proper slide you will only chase the flat spot around until you are foaming at the mouth and require distemper shots! For more high-tech KTM info see, www.racetech.com         AARF!!

Pitdog: This is good feedback from a reader familiar with KTM jetting. The needle at 2nd clip from the top is a leaner setting, but the slide cut away must be the answer to an engineering dilemma. The thing about the Kawasaki part being a lot less is classic in the industry to tuners in the know. I support this suggestion and Racetech.

Hello Pitdog. I am looking for a person in the Foutain area that could give my 9 year old some MX lessons. Ricky Palmer I know is in this area but he is expensive. Also I heard about the Milton MX track, is that a good track for beginners?

Pitdog: Again, the Pitdog is not an MX guy so I can't give personal insight on the style of certain MX tracks. I would support Palmer for advanced lessons but maybe you are not ready for his price or plan. I do know that Orlando MX Park and Dade City MX Park have general rider classes on Saturday mornings. These cost about $25 a class. A beginner could learn a lot from this type of class because they start with the basics.

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