Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - how to prepare, bike setup and maintenance.

Pitdog: I recently purchased a 1999 KTM 200MXC. When the engine revs reach midrange it sputters then clears up. The bike is stock except for Boysen reeds and fmf exhaust. What steps must I take to solve and fix the problem? Please keep it simple because I am not very good with the wrench. Also who is the best mechanic in Central Florida to work on this problem if I can't solve this problem with your help?
Thanks MISSING SOMETHING.

Pitdog: Sounds like a simple reposition of the needle clip to make it leaner but you still need to read the spark plug during any jetting change. I've written lots of stuff on this subject so read down for more particulars. Changing the needle clip isn't hard but you need to work clean and be careful not to drop it. The master tuner in Central Florida, Florida, the US of A, and most parts of the world is Greg of K&P Cycles. 407-656-9686. You must bring a chicken salad, (he's on a diet), get down on your knees, and offer up your wallet however, to get him to do such a menial task. Good luck.

Hey Dog. I ride MX and heard you talking about "Hare Scrambles." What exactly are they and what kind of bikes can enter? I have a RM125. Would that be permitted in a H/S race? Also, what H/S race would be closest to Mexico Beach, FL?

Pitdog: I hope I get some other comments on this but here goes. Back in the old days, like the 60's, a bunch of riders would get together and try to catch a rider with a running start through a section of trails in no particular direction. This was called chasing a "Hare." After some organization, they decided to mark a specific course and the riders road it as fast as they could against the clock. This was called a "Scramble." Soon they realized that some bikes where faster or some riders where faster so
they started having different classes to compete in, but the overall fastest guy to the finish would still be the Hare, or the 'High Point' in today's terms. So there we have the term "Hare Scramble" that is still used today. Off-road scooters in the 60's started out as road bikes, sometimes Harleys, that the riders stripped down to reduce weight. As the spread of light weight MX bikes came over from Europe, off-road riders discovered speed and handling from a stock bike. As usual the Japanese copied that success and began producing some of the best bikes for off-road racing like your RM. The next Hare Scramble closest to you will be February 10 &11 at Gatorback near Gainesville. Come on out and chase that 'Hare'.

Hey Pitdog. I recently dented the pipe on my 94 RM125. I am thinking about a new pipe and silencer. Which brand and model would perform best on my bike?

Pitdog: Most of the FTR racers like their scoots to run clean at lower RPMs because of dealing with a tight course. That's going to be hard to get on a 125, especially a 94. A different pipe isn't going to make a big change in performance unless it's matched to specific engine mods. You will be better off investing in mods that will give better compression readings. Have that dented pipe straightened and repack the existing silencer for a cheap surprise. Performance reed plates in conjunction with excellent jetting also make a huge difference. The FMF pipe is the most popular on an FTR starting line.

Pooch. What is the proper way to warm up a 250 water cooled motocross bike?

Pitdog: First, with proper jetting it should start in less than 5 kicks. My lights off on the first or second. What this tells you is that the full choke is matching with the jetting. Your scoot should go to a high idle and allow you to shut the choke off in about 30 seconds, settling into its normal idle. If it doesn't high idle, your jetting is too rich. If it still wants choke after 30 seconds, it's too lean. This has been a great way to check low speed jetting without having to test ride. You will notice at that point that the exhaust is full of smoke because of the mix oil that settled in the crank area. This is the time that you are risking oil fouling the plug. To avoid that, give short quick jabs at the throttle so the oil will clear quickly. Do not rev the motor out while doing this for about two minutes. After that, you should be able to ride away at a mild pace. You should avoid full throttle straights for five to ten minutes depending on the age of piston set up and motor displacement. Figure more time for a new piston or smaller displacement.

Dear Dog. The guy with the 79 YZ 400 can race Super Vintage Hare Scrambles and Motocross at
FTR events or he can try Vintage Motocross on Vintage tracks by contacting FL VMX at http://members.aol.com/motoxusa/vintage.htm Surely you should have known!

Pitdog: Boy howdy. That's what I like about the readers of this column, kick a sleeping dog. I knew there was Vintage MX because Kevin Hodge races them, I just didn't know where. Thanks.

I have a 1979 YZ400 and it is fast. Where could I find info about this old scoot? I ride it at a MX track and I'm getting pretty good but they don't have a Vintage class. Do you know were I could race it at? Any info would be useful. Thanx

Pitdog: Tech info on that one is going to be hard to find. You might find a universal manual at the dealer. MX tracks usually don't run Vintage classes unless it's a Vintage event. I believe you can run the 79 in Super Vintage at an FTR event. You can also run Beginner 200-open if you are new into racing.

Dear Pitdog. I recently got a 91 YZ250 and I have been riding it as much as possible to prepare for the Hare Scramble races. The bike feels a little too powerful for me. I weigh 135lb and I am 5 foot 5. The bike seems to accelerate fast through 1st 2nd and 3rd and wants to pull wheelies all the time. My question is, how can I keep the front wheel on the ground?

Pitdog: Rider, I'm 180lb and I can't keep my 250 front wheel on the ground. It's fun :). Two things come to mind for you. First, you must move around on the bike to make it not do its own tricks. You need to be off the seat and head over the bars on acceleration. Mostly during braking is when you move back. Stay centered and standing up in the whoops so you can attack when needed, or move back. Move to the front of the seat and sit down during a tight apex in order to keep your weight low and the front turning. You could change the front sprocket larger one tooth to take out some of the hit and make it somewhat easier to ride. As you say, the scoot's "a little too powerful," so practice moving around on that monster

Pitdog. I have a 96 RM250 I use to ride at Croom. I have an FMF pipe and the power is OK. I need help with the stability. Would a longer swing-arm help? I may want to get a flywheel weight to help hook up and keep the bike from stalling. Any other setup tips would be appreciated.

Pitdog: If you spend all your time in the mine pits hill climbing, a longer swing-arm would help. But don't try to go trail riding with the same set up. Turn, no way. You probably need softer springs. RMs don't have an idle setting so they do stall if you let them. A flywheel weight can help any scoot for hill climbing and tight trail riding but it takes the hit out. That's why Suzuki makes RMXs. The RMs are very much designed for MX. Whatever you change to make it better for you in Crooms will deduct from its design intent.

I was just answering the question about the Motocross track that is near Bartow.  It is actually just south of Mulberry.  It is located south of Hwy 60 on Stateroad 37 approximately 2-3 miles.  It is open for practice only on Sat 9-5 and Sun 1-5. Adam

Pitdog: Thanks Adam for the local knowledge.

Hey Pooch! I went to a motorcycle shop yesterday and saw a Yamaha YZ80. My dad told me it was faster than my scoot. I asked my dad how fast it went but he didn't answer. Exactly how fast does it go and how tall is it?

Pitdog: Several years ago, Mark Schmitt brought PW80s to the annual Christmas party flat-track show down. In the end, I was third, Mark was second, and Tom, a guy weighing 130 lbs, was the winner. The point is, it doesn't make much difference what scoot you are riding to have fun on two wheels. Tom could pull us heavier guys down the straights, and with some good riding, nobody could touch him. We all rolled on the ground laughing. Thanks Mark.
I don't know what kind of scoot you are comparing the YZ80 to but yes, they are a top contender in the 80cc class. Tall and fast scoots aren't everything for riders with experience, only an advantage. Your dad didn't answer your question because he was trying to figure if you had the ability, not the bike. The Pitdog has always promoted the idea that when you show your ability to master the scoot you have and are responsible with its upkeep, along with deserving ways in general, the good stuff will be yours. Start now.

Dear Pitdog. Do I have to be a member of Florida Trail Riders, or can I just show up and expect to race?

Pitdog: Actually both. Riders can join FTR at an event. All riders at our events are FTR members. This is known as club racing. Come on and join the fun.

Dear Dog. Do you need all the equipment to race, or can I race with just a helmet, goggles and gloves?

Pitdog: For FTR racing and equipment, official rules can be located through the business manager, businessmanager@floridatrailriders.org. I will list my latest recommendations," gear includes; helmet, goggles, gloves, riding jersey and pants, knee guards, chest protector, and boots

Why would a wristpin break on my KX125 after only an hour worth of riding when I just rebuilt it? When it did break, there were about three pieces of the wristpin that were missing. So we pulled off the motor and then we blew it out with an airgun. Do you think that we need to split the casing or is that a good enough cleaning of the motor?

Pitdog: You didn't say what year scoot so I'll cover it in general. The wrist pin and it's bearing fit to the piston is very precise. The area needs to be perfectly clean and oiled during reassembly. Any wear to the small end journal or twisting motion on the big end to crank will cause very quick failure. Also, the cylinder to piston fit must be within tolerances for life of the rod. Since you had wrist pin failure after only an hour, this tells me something is seriously wrong with the rod or piston fit. Air pressure will not remove small pieces of metal from around the crank bearings from the outside of the case. Any money you spend on your scoot without the proper cylinder and rod work will be like standing in the wind at a certain moment.

Hey Pitdog. I heard a new MX track is opening up or has opened up in the Bartow area, I think.  Some where off of Highway 60.  Do know where exactly or maybe phone number I could call to find out more about it?

Pitdog: The Pitdog can't find many trees at MX tracks so he's kinda an Enduro guy. Check out this site for Florida MX tracks. www.prosportsusa.com

Pit Dog. I'm new to FTR & racing (4 Hare races under my belt so far, with enough mud eaten in the Virgin Gator race to last a lifetime). I'm considering bikes for my 4yr/8ry old son/daughter for Xmas. Both are beginners. I'm sure a Yam PW50 or Zuk JR50 is the way to go for my 4 year old Hammerhead. I'd like to bring out the beast in my 8 year old daughter, who is an Angel on loan from heaven. For her I've considered a KTM 50 for the PeeWee course for the remainder of the season. Any recurring
problems with this bike? Is it a good choice?

Pitdog: The Virgin Gator was a little damp but we haven't seen water like some of the past seasons when you would have been faster on a Jetski. It's neat to see you have such a great family and are getting into FTR racing. The Yamaha has the lowest seat height of the 50's and seams to be a solid winner in the ranks for the little guy. Personally, I would have chosen the KTM senior for my eight year old pup but she didn't have the speed so I got her the XR50 to ride the season out. There's a lot of fast bigger 50's out there for the daughter and KTM has several choices. What I have seen at the races is that they run hot in the stop and go on a PeeWee course. Could be the combination of clutch slipping and low air flow. This heat has been known to shut down the spark. The older the scoot the worse it becomes. For you the Yamaha is an anvil, probably because it just doesn't make much power. The tricker scoots in the class are faster but require more attention, (read money).

My son has a 1998 Yamaha PW80.  It will start and idle fine with the choke on full, (won't run at all without choke).  Problem is every time you give it any throttle it bogs down and dies.  It seems to run better if you lean the bike over to the right.  What's going on and where should I begin?

Pitdog: Any time a motor bogs when you try to open the throttle, it's lean. What you are doing with the choke is substituting for a jet that is clogged, but you can't ride around with the choke on. Leaning the scoot over spills fuel into the intake which also substitutes for a clogged jet, but you can't ride around like that either. The slow speed jets are very small on the little bikes and clog easily. You'll need to take the carb off and remove the fuel bowl to get to the jets. The pilot jet is in a small housing and is probably the culprit. Clean every place you can using carb spray,( wearing rubber gloves), and air pressure it you can get it. Sight through the jets before you put them back in. Now your little rider will be back on the gas!

Hey Pitdog, what's up? I am a 16 year old beginner and have the Yamaha TTR125-l 4 stroke. I'm a little big for the bike but happy with what I have. I want to start going to MX tracks, (for practice not for racing). I want to go pretty hard but I'm worried that my bike might not be fast enough for most of the jumps. Anyway, my question is, will it be worth my money to pay for the practice, or is it just a waste a time? Also, what can I do to make my bike faster? Thanks.

Pitdog: I really like when a young person writes, ' happy with what I have,' because you understand its shortcoming but are grateful for the opportunity you've been given. Your not too big for the scoot, you're just riding it as hard as it will go which isn't very hard. This will be the problem at the MX track. As you say, 'might not be fast enough for most of the jumps', that is very true. 2 stroke scoots make almost instant power which is needed to launch a rider over a jump. Without it, you need to carry a lot of speed in order to clear, which may not be easy to get after a turn on a smaller 4 stroke. It will not be a waste of time to go out and practice on that scoot in order to master other aspects of the course, but just do the obstacles you know you can do easily, and stay out of the way of others going faster. I believe with a positive attitude and deserving ways, you will get the assistance you need to progress.

Hey pooch. In the riding partner section of forum a member asked about the HS course in Okeechobee Thundercross. Do you have any info on course, distance, cost, times, and dates it is open to the public. I guess that I could call and find out for myself, but I thought others would like to know also. Thanks. Neal Randol C4stk.

Pitdog: Thundercross has been the site of many Hare and GNCCs for the past several years and has a large back area for mileage. That area is only open for events because it's a farm. The MX track is open most of the time for practice and racing on weekends.
Thundercross Motorsports Park   941-357-2277   561-340-4367
The track is located 4 1/2 miles East of Okeechobee City on State Rd. 70 (25 miles West of I-95). Watch for signs on North side of SR 70. The track is sand with hard pack jumps. Overnight parking is available.Nearby lodging -  Flamingo Motel 941-763-6100 or Holiday Inn Express 1-800-465-4329 in Okeechobee.

Pitdog, Not really a question but rather a point that was asked about in a previous question...Boots and gear. While watching my son practice at a local MX track we witnessed an individual riding without any equipment other than a helmet.  This very same person fell and injured his ankle (parents were present), a pair of riding boots would have prevented this injury.

Pitdog: Yep, some tracks will let you ride with just a helmet and goggles. I think the rider didn't realize the danger and the dumb parents don't have a clue. Ever notice how many serious injuries make the headlines when an ATV rider gets caught out without a helmet? Really dumb. MX practice is not as easy at it appears so a lot of riders go out without preparation, which includes proper bike set up. Hopefully that rider only sprained his ankle and will get the gear on next time. That gear includes; helmet, goggles, gloves, riding jersey and pants, knee guards, chest protector, and boots. Is every parent listening? Christmas is coming

Pit Dog. I have a 1996 KX250, pure stock, like new.   I want to get into Hare Scrambles. Will my bike do, or do I need to drop the cash on a new ride?  Also, any setup hints?

Pitdog: Good scoot. If it's totally stock you'll need aluminum bars, bark busters, and sand tires. But you'd need those anyway. You might want to re-valve the front for less low speed compression. The springs will be OK for riders 150 to 170lb.  KX's wear their stock cylinder plating quickly so have the bore inspected when freshening the motor. Use the 99 or later clutch cable for better feel. Read down for jetting tips that apply to all scoots.

Dog. I have a 94 RM125 and its silencer packing is coming out. I don't feel like foolin with it right now. Does it hurt the engine or loose performance if I ride it without putting new packing in it right away?

Pitdog: The most important thing about bad packing is not even related to the scoot, and that is how the thing sounds. The only sound worse than a 125 with bad packing is a 80 with the same. Mechanically, you are affecting the back pressure of the exhaust system which decreases your low end power and combustion temperature. This could foul plugs and add to the gumming of the power valves. In addition, the core of the silencer will vibrate more and break the ends off where it fits into the housing. There's a lot of simple maintenance that needs attention on a race bike because they are so sensitive and wear quickly. No maintenance = high wear = broken scoot = no fun.

Pitdog. I usually run 40 to 1 in all my bikes and I heard new bikes sometimes foul plugs. My 2001 CR 250 is still fouling plugs. I've had it for 1 or 2 months. Why is this happening?

Pitdog: 40:1 is richer than what the factory said to run for base jetting but that's just a slight change. Every scoot is different and so are it's riders. You must follow the recommended carb tuning hints in the owners manual for the mix you are using, where and how you ride. Needle clip position is the best place to start because no new parts are involved. If you are a new rider or just putt around there is no cure. You have a pure bred race bike there and it only wants to go 'fast'! Read down for more jetting hints.

Hi Dog! I own a 2000 YZ125. I would like to know what would be a good suspension setup? I'm 130lbs and I race outdoor motocross tracks. Also, I read in a magazine that reducing the jets of a YZ250 by about 2 or 3 mm would make it run better. Would it help on my 125? Thank you!

Pitdog: My young rider, as I assume you are a young rider because you are 130lbs, get out a scale that shows 3 mm and see how big that is. You could wash your scoot with that much fuel. You can't start changing jets until you have studied your spark plug color and understand if it is fat anywhere. It would be best for you to read down to several answers in this column concerning jetting changes to get a start on your understanding. You can very easily do severe damage to you motor without taking a studied approach.  On the legs, you are near the standard weight for an amateur rider with stock settings. Fine tuning that will be a matter of working on limitations of the performance that most affects your riding style. Ask yourself, what area of the practice track am I the most uncomfortable? Start changing your settings, as recommended in the owners manual, to address that issue. You will see that change affects your scoot in a section where it works very well, making it worse. You must find a compromise. Don't forget to count where everything is now before you start.

Hey Dog. Do you think one of those YZ250F 4-strokes would be competitive in the SR. A class? I'll be old enough to ride in the Sup SR. A class next race. Should I stay in the SR. class with the new bike or should I move up with these guys? I have been finishing in the top 3 consistently and would like race these old guy's. Some of the riders in that class fly, is the YZ 4 stroke as fast as they are? HELP, undecided.

Pitdog: Did you know you could have started in the Super Senior class this season if you are going to be 45 during the season? Oh well. Look at the class though. You'll be up against guys like the series Chairman and 'Pops' Kuka! These guys can 'wax' the Dog. More to the point of the 4 stroke, the YZF250 hasn't had a chance to show it's stuff in FTR. I've ridden the XR250 that had some trick work and was impressed. The YZF has got to have better stock stuff than the XR. I know another Senior A rider that's going to a YZF250 off a YZ125 so you're not alone. In the Specialty classes the type of scoot you chose is up to you but I'll take a 2 stroke 250 any day.

Sup Pit? I was wanting to get a White Brothers exhaust pipe for my dirtbike. Are they any good? Thanx.

Pitdog: White Brothers is a major player in aftermarket products and performance modifications for off-road scoots. I doubt that you could go wrong with the proper application. Keep in mind that exhaust changes may require jetting and gearing changes to gain performance. You don't want to spend money for a nice add-on and go the wrong way for the increase you're
seeking.   

Dog. My 2000 KX250 is running too rich, I think. ( plug wet and fouling). Should I adjust needle or go to smaller jet?  I haven't touched a carb in 15 yrs.  Is this a difficult job?  Must I take the carb totally off?   If so, are there any surprises that will make me regret touching the carb? Sorry for my ignorance. I am not worthy of your greatness, but if you can help please do.

Pitdog: Greatness? Hardly, just long in the tooth. Most factory MX scoots come a little fat to protect from seizing as the break in. The owners Manuel even reviews proper jetting implying that they all change. Usually moving the clip up on the needle is all that's required to get a correct spark plug color but again, every motor is different. You'll have an idea on the pilot being correct, after finding a clip position, because the motor will high idle on cold start up for the first 30 seconds with the choke on. The air screw will affect the pilot up to 2 1/2 turns out. Aim for 1 1/2 turns with the correct pilot. We have found the main to be lean on some power jet carbs for Enduro racing. It should be close for MX and Hares. It's not the easiest thing to change jets so study the routing of lines and clean the area good before you start. Release it from the boots so you can pull it off to work cleanly and precisely. Finally, if you are putting around on this state-of-the-art MX bike it will foul a plug with perfect jetting. Be careful to do plug checks as you are testing, while riding the scoot at your average pace.

Hey Dog. I just bought a 95 RM125 and the suspension seems way to stiff. I'm 5'6" and 125lbs. What would be a good setting for me?

Pitdog: If you're coming off a trail bike to a RM, then you would think the thing is 'a bit stiff.' Being 125 lb, you are also a little light for the stock springs. Not only that, someone before you may have changed the springs even heavier! Do the standard sag to sack test with your gear on to get 100mm at the rear. Front spring tests are a little harder to static check. I tie a zip-tie to the slider and slam some whoops for a front spring check. Compression clickers on the fork and shock make a lot of difference as they compress but not much on the first part of the travel. You can try backing off on the compression to take out some stiffness. Do these test on the same section of track so you can feel the change. Most of the riders I know change to lighter springs if they are under 150lb to get the action they need for off-road racing. These springs make their MX set up worse, however. Suspension tuning is a learned art so welcome to the jungle.

Hey Pit. One of my friends told me that if you turn in the screw on the carb it will make your bike go faster. What do you think? Also, someone told me getting bigger tires will help too. Any Ideas???

Pitdog: If you turn the idle screw in, the idle will be higher that's for sure. This also adds air, leaning out the low speed which could substitute for a slightly rich pilot. On a 2 stroke, the low speed mix screw is the designed air control. Turning it in reduces the air. For a 4 stroke it's the opposite. A larger tire might give you better traction but the added weight won't be a plus. Also, a larger tire might give the scoot more top speed if it can pull it, just like gearing. Taller gearing equals slower off the corners though. Checking the spark plug color, as mentioned here many times, is your best approach to the most power that's available from changing your carb settings. Changing tire size involves pluses and minuses for any scoot and better left to experts.

What are the Hare Scrambles races? When do they start? Can you race with a 100cc four stroke dirt bike? Can you race with a TTR 90cc four stroke dirt bike? David Harrawood age 10 & Jared O'Brien age 12.

Pitdog: Hares are a flag to flag race in fields and woods that you would ride as fast as you could on an arrowed course for laps to be run in less than 2 hours. We race throughout the year except for July and August. Usually kids your age have come up from the Peewee ranks and have advanced to Mini or Junior. You will need to get a copy of the FTR Rulebook from the Business Manager to review the age and bike requirements. The 90cc and 100cc are great beginner and trail bikes but would get smoked in competition. Most riders are on 2 strokes. If you never raced before you could come in as a beginner, but the class is 0-200cc and any age, so think hard. Your best bet now is to prove your ability on the 4 stroke to your parents so they might consider getting you a race bike. The Pitdog is sorta like Santa Claus and can tell when you are deserving of a better scoot. Start now to become that proud rider.

Hey Pit, how do you go about getting a sponsor for MX racing?

Pitdog: Sponsors look for riders to promote their image in their industry. Unless you are already a natural super star, you need to start by building up your own image. Foremost you need to be at the tracks as much as possible to practice, practice, practice. You also need to be at as many MX races as possible to showcase your results. When you are at the track, You need to display a professional image of yourself and your gear. This includes a sharp hauler, clean equipment, and stickers on your bike showing who is helping you at that time. Do not put stickers on that are not supporting you. Think about the latest heroes in MX like Ricky and Travis. These guys are the exact impression that a sponsor wants. Not only are they winners on the track but they are clean cut, personable, and are sure to mention their sponsors and family without gloating about themselves. In life, image is everything. Start now.

Dear Pitdog. I have a 2000 XR100R. I am embarrassed because my friend has a 97 Blaster and is always dustin me. How can I modify my bike to make it go faster? Intake? Exhaust? Thanks a lot.

Pitdog:  The fastest XR100 I ever saw was one that World Champion Scott Russell brought to the Bithlo flat track one night for practice. To imagine how trick it was, he pulled the trailer with an all whited-out Hummer. A stock Blaster could still pull it off the corner but say 'so long' going in. World class racers use the 100 because it will propel you as fast as you want to go if you never let off. A Blaster has at least twice the peek horsepower of any 100 4 stroke so why compare? You can be sure of one thing, that XR will still be running years after that 2 stroke has worn itself to a frazzle.

Hey Pitdog. I have a 1981 Honda XL125 I've been trying to find parts for. Everything on it is the original except the chain. I need a new carburetor but I can't find it's size. Do you have any better ideas to where I can find that out? Thanx.

Pitdog: The Honda dealer still has all the information for that scoot in their files and could also tell you if the part is still available. I'll bet you could replace the whole bike for what that part will cost, however. A good tuner can fix that carb if it is still all there.

Pit. Thanks for your reply to my 98 RM125 jetting question. I take it, it's not that unusual to make such drastic jet changes? I'm going to do the opposite of your last suggestion and get my little guy a 2 stroke, that will pick up our riding pace. He is ready to upgrade. We're looking for something that needs a little work so we can rebuild it together. This will do two things. First, he will learn how to maintain and repair his bike and most importantly, buy some more time on the more forgiving 4 stroke. I like to error on the side of caution. It's OK with me if he doesn't become the next Travis Pastrana because, I started him on a two stroke too late. A few posts back, you talked about tweaking your 50:1 mix to change the a/f ratio on days when the air is too low in 02. Is it possible to equate changing the premix to jet changes? Say we went from 50:1 to 32:1. Would that be equal to leaning out 1/2 of a jet size or moving up the clip a 1/2 of a position or more? Thanks, slow and learning.

Pitdog: He'll adapt quickly cause he's already a rider. Don't buy something to beat because the total cost will be more than a better scoot.Oil in the fuel displaces the fuel per volume. It also slows the fuel velocity in the jet, all making it leaner. Since the vacuum over the jet changes with the opening of the carb, so does the velocity. The viscosity of the fuel and the velocity through the jet don't change using the same equation so oil is not directly like a jet change. It can be used as a relative change for last minute requirements. If you've ever seen a race pit with the tuners debating jetting choices it's a matter of gauges, charts, sundials, and Wege boards. Think long term and dependable.

A simple query from one who doesn't know.  What is the correct way to clean and lubricate the caliper pins on my Yamaha's disc brakes?   I've used anti-sieze, but it seems to dry up, maybe from the excess heat (I'm a brake dragger in the tight).  I noticed after the Croom Enduro that the rear pads sang when I unloaded the bike because they were not floating back to a neutral position on the mount, which caused the singing and uneven pad wear.The manual lacks any information.   Again, I beg your humble opine.

Pitdog: Anti-sieze is for parts that don't move and you want to get apart after some time, like cylinder bolts. The caliper is mounted to the carrier with two pins that have rubber boots. These need to move freely. I put high temp grease on those pins, the boots hold it in somewhat. On the pin that holds the pads in, I keep grease on the threads so it torques properly. The pin is dry through the pad holes. You can also stick the pads to the caliper back and piston with high temp silicone to reduce singing which is vibration. Flush your fluid often if you are a 'dragger.'

Hey Dog.  I recently took a trip over the bars on my YZ426. After I got home I noticed the front wheel seems to be pointing to the left when the bars are held straight.  The front fender is still pointing straight, and nothing appears bent.  What should I do?

Pitdog: You're triple clamps aren't holding the forks in line causing the axle to be out of line. First look at your bars real close at the clamps to check their angles. You could lay 2- 2x4s down along the tires to keep the wheels in line while you check it out. Next loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts. If someone holds the tire you'll notice you can move the bars back and forth slightly because the legs will now twist in the triple clamps. Move the bars back to where you think is straight and check them with a tape back to the center of the seat. A bent rear sub frame will mess up this check, however. Be sure to keep the legs at the same height in the triple clamps, right to left. Bumping the tire against a big tree will do almost the same thing out on the trail.

Dog. I will be participating in my first Scramble on November 18/19. I have my 2000 YZ250 suspension set up for Motocross.  I usually set my compression and rebound clicks 1 for 1 depending on size of jumps and amount of stutter bumps on an MX track.  I don't want the bike to beat me up on the trail.  As a general rule for the woods, should I increase/decrease C or R? 

Pitdog: First, I wouldn't change it much without testing. You could make some major changes and check it in practice, but if it's way off you'll have to go back to base settings. I've changed my compression front and rear as much as six clicks slower for a MX track with good results. This may not work for you because of the springs so testing is essential. Changing you clickers one for one is a way to start testing but I don't think you would end up there. Think about where you're having the biggest problem in practice and tune to that.

I have a 98 RM125. I'm down 2 stops on the slow jet and still have the air screw out 3+ turns. The clip is up one position and everything else is stock. Top end is good. Mid range is next, it's a bit rich. I still have a slight idle problem and want to get the air screw in its effective range of 1/2 to 2 turns out. I follow my son on his XR80 trail riding so I spend a lot of time under 1/2 throttle. For some reason I feel like I'm compensating for another problem- leaning out the slow jet. I haven't been able to find the OEM float weight. It might be heavy although it doesn't flood. Can I have a problem with fuel passing through the choke bore? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Old and slow.

Pitdog: Several things come to mind here. I had to go to a 35 pilot on my pup's 125 and she is always on the pipe. If you're out more than 2 1/2 turns on the air screw the pilot is still too fat. A real factor is that you are riding this race bike like a trail bike and it doesn't like it at all. Small displacement 2 strokes don't generate much intake velocity when at low RPM and that messes up the cylinder charge big time. When this happens not much of the fuel is ignited which cools the cylinder and clouds the plug. You must realize that if you get the thing running clean while you're putting around, it will be way too lean when you get it on. You must jet and tune to consistent riding at your average pace reading the plug as you go. When this is correct, I would think that it would run rough and possibly foul a plug putting behind your son. On the float, flooding is a good sign of a heavy one but I wouldn't think a 98 would have that problem yet. Fuel through a choke bore? That's another sign of old age. My final suggestion would be to find an old XR for your trail riding and keep your race bike a race bike. 

I have been riding for about 6 mounths now and I'm getting okay at jumping. I can't double stuff because I can't get my nose down on the landing. What am I doing wrong?

Pitdog, I am 8 and I have a Cobra. When I jump I always land on my back tire and sometimes I flip over backwards. Why does this happen?

Pitdog: You're letting the bike get ahead of you when you gas it up the face of the jump. This lets the front stay light instead of level in the air. You can correct it slightly by tagging the rear brake but that may be a little tough for you. At all times you need to be head down and over the front of the bars when you attack an obstacle. When you are in the air over a jump your best body position is centered, standing up with your legs against the tank. This allows you to correct your landing by moving your weight around, the bike will follow. Find a jump that is easy for you to practice adjusting your weight while you're in the air. Then use those skills on larger jumps you are have problems with.

Hi there you "DOG." I have recently bought a 1999 KX125 to race in our motocross season over here in N.Ireland.The bike is completely standard and I am finding it far too slow. Could you please tell me your suggestions on how to make this thing a missile. I used to race up until 1996, and that year I had the chance to ride a full Pro-Circuit KX125 which was great. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!!!

Pitdog: Lucky you. What you got to experience was the difference between good and great. Bikes that have been prepared by a factory tuner could have as much as 20 percent more power, especially where they are weak, like down low. This is where I think you should start on a 2 year old used scoot. From a cranking compression test you will see low numbers compared to new. From there, remove the cylinder for a bore measure and inspection of the plating. Compression is the main ingredient of low end power. Factory tuners tend to jack it up but that wears out the rod and crank in short order. This doesn't matter to a top team because they do a full rebuild every two races. I would think you might want it to last for a season so bring it back to factory production specs.

Hey Pitdog.  I have a 98' KTM and was wondering if you could tell me why my front end always tends to dive down into whoops and how can I fix it.  Thank you.

Pitdog: In off-road riding we want the front to settle in for the turns but at the same time stay up in the whoop sections. This is what I have found. My scoot has straight rate springs from the factory. Since I'm heavier than stock springs are intended for, I still use them but with a little preload spacer. What I'm getting is a front end that stands up but will also dive when I load the front for turning. My Compression settings are on the light side most of the time. In addition, I run light rebound dampening so that the front will return quickly, fighting off that 'dive in the whoops' syndrome. I've come up on a lot of KTMs in the Southeast and noticed they look like a handful in the big stuff. Hope this helps.

Hey DOG, my buddy has a 79 YZ400 two stroke and its pretty fast, faster than my 96 YZ125. How can it be so fast for such an old bike?

Pitdog: In the tuners world there's an old saying, " there's no replacement for displacement." Even though the 96 YZ125 was a very fast motor, it won't hold a candle to 400cc, even if it's in a lawn mower! But try riding that mower in big whoops and a tight section and the 125 wins every time. So this is my point, that old 400 will flat out scoot in a straight line but its 79 technology is way slower when it comes to turning and suspension. I'll bet all he sees of you is your dust in a knarly section

Hi Pitdog. My son wants to get a dirtbike but I don't know what kind or size  and I don't want to get him a bike that he will outgrow in a year or two, he is 14 and about 5'4" 120 pounds.Thanks

Pitdog: Are you ready for this? He's going to outgrow it in a year or two no matter what. A good scoot would be a XR Honda or TTR Yamaha 4 stroke to start on but he'll want more power and lighter weight in short order. Believe me, it's the same for all parents with kids coming up. The good thing about a 4 stroke is you might find a nice used one from a parent with the same cycle of kids and then you can sell it to another without a major loss. This is what I have done.

Hey Dog, here we go with a good one. On the subject of ignition timing on a 2-stroke, I've heard it all from everyone's input now I'm going to the Top Dog. If a motor is timed 1.1 mm compared to 2.0 mm, which will run cooler and will it detonate the least? I've been told that the motor timed @ 1.1 will run hotter because it is firing closer to the combustion chamber. I don't buy it. What do you think Dog?????

Pitdog: I think you mean closer to top dead center but anyway. Timing, plug type, jetting, pipe design, and others all have some effect on combustion temperature. As you reduce the distance to top dead center, the timing is later and helps to lower combustion temperature. This helps with the upper RPMs but takes away at low. This change is very small compared to proper
jetting. Factory mechanics will make this change for a rider instead of changing the motor out because of how it was set up and how it works on a particular track. I would use it as a way to control temperature after I was happy with all the other variables.

I just bought a new CR 250 and the motor seems to make a tapping sound, and yes I did break it in correctly. What could be the problem?

Pitdog: Kind of a tough question without putting an ear to it, but if you're not used to the sound of a 2 stroke, they are kind of loud. Usually a 2 stroke makes more of a clicking sound as the ring starts to wear. I wouldn't think that would be the case on a new bike. Try sealing the pipe to the head with high temperature silicone at the O-rings. This also helps reduce wear to the head port. Ask the dealer to listen to the bike when cold and maybe get a compression check.

Pooch, I ride in the SrC Class in Hare Scrambles. I am going to purchase a 1999 or newer 250 cc. Is there any difference between a stock CR, YZ, KX, or RM?  I currently ride a 4 stroke and I am just tired of the extra weight. What should I look for in a good used bike or what to avoid?

Pitdog: I'll be like the magazines and say that there's really not much of a significance difference in Japanese 2 stroke MX bikes. European bikes still have a bit of flavor, however. A 2 stroke will be quite a change from a 4 stroke in maintenance, weight, and starting. I can see throughout the Southeast that the KX and the KTM are the most popular off-road race bikes.
These bikes have exceptional low end performance and the KX pulls out well to the upper RPMs. Without performance tuning the KTM signs off early. The YZ has some characteristics of the KX, like stable handling. The CR and the RM like a tight course and also work better at the MX track. Be sure that these differences are very subtle and might not show up with your style and speed. Maybe you should just buy what matches your gear and try to find one that's not older than 2 years.

Hi!  My name is Traci and I wanted to know how I can get my son, who is 7 years old, into 4 wheeling?  Where is the best place to start without scarring him too bad?  He loves to watch it on TV so I thought I'd take the next step.  Thank you for your time! Traci Riddlehoover

Pitdog: Even though smaller 4 wheelers are made for under 16 years, I think the starting age design focus is 12. This means the little guys miss out on all the fun. What's going to scare him is the first time he doesn't let off the gas and sticks it into the side of the car like one of my pups did when she was 4. She's 15 now and an excellent racer. We still have that car and I can show you the mark. The point of 4 wheeler for the little guys is that it's a heavy vehicle for their size. I really feel they are better off on a PW50 scooter because they develop their confidence along with their balance and that keeps them from going too fast from the get go. They don't have to balance a 4 wheeler and they just go! Think real hard about how you want him to start him out because boys have 'no fear' and they don't loose that until they're like 40.

Wheelie.... Do you use the clutch for a 2 stroke wheelie? Also please advise on a WR200 4 stroke how to wheelie in the 2nd and 3rd gear. How do you keep the wheel up high?

Pitdog: Welcome to Pitdog's trick riding class. Riding a wheelie is a "trick," and not easily learned. Use of the clutch brings a motor to instant power at any time, especially when you want to lift the wheel. It's going to take more than a clutch fan to bring a WR200 up in 2nd and 3rd gear. Once again, riding a balanced wheelie takes a lot of practice. I don't suggest trying to learn this art on a 200+ pound scoot. Use your bicycle for training.

Hi Mr. Dog. Do you think WR400 is a bike too big and heavy for my weight,(130lbs)? Ya, you are right, stock fork is already too stiff for me, and stiffer springs will only make it worst. Will a 2 stroker suit me better, in terms of handling?

Pitdog: No doubt. I think you are a 125 guy from the word go!

Yo Papa Dawg. I raced this past race...and after getting a 2nd place (thank you very much) I came to discover that I had about half a dozen bruises on my legs. Is there any way to prevent these? I don't even crash (that much) Please tell me you can prevent them without becoming a couch potato?!! Thanks - Young Dawg # 8

Pitdog: Most riders wear them proudly in display of their hard earned efforts. I guess a rider that shaves their legs might think otherwise. Since I think you are of female gender, consider you are in a traditional man's world of sport. That means pain, dirt, exhaustion, and yes bruises on your legs. Most women wouldn't think of doing what you do. My suggestion is, keep those legs against the tank and on the pegs. This gives you instant balance correction when you just move your upper body around. Putting your foot out in woods riding slows you down and helps with the bruise factor. Your confidence to keep your feet up will improve with practice. It's the fast and bruise free approach.

Dear Dog: The last few races I have developed serious butt rash.  What causes this? How do I get rid of it?  Why, has it just appeared?  I started riding and racing on a regular basis over a year ago.

Pitdog: That my friend is better know as "monkey butt." It simply means you are riding harder and sweating more. Stay away from cotton shorts and use bicycle shorts, maybe even the ones with the padding. Sometimes I'll use Vaseline before a long even to protect that skin. Welcome to the club!

Hi Mr. Dog. I always bottom out my WR400F on a MX track. I have set up my race sag and it proved to be too soft for me though I'm about 130lbs. I'm an intermediate and an aggressive jumper. Will a re-valve or change to stiffer springs solve the problem? I bottom out both front and rear suspension. Thanks.

Pitdog: We've always called the WR models the "woods replica" race bike. I think you have proof in point. My KX is a true MX bike but the way I have it set up I know it won't work on an MX track. The easiest place to start is to have compression settings for MX and off-road. This may be as much as 6 clicks in difference. At 130lbs you are kind of light for the bike. Even with stock springs you would have a time getting the front to settle in for turns. If you change the springs to make your landings better, your front turning will get worse. You could change the rear spring to stiffer but that will make the bike out of balance in the whoops. I have been at the same impasse with one of my pups bikes and we are on the edge with the spring issue. So far we have settled on the compression changes and this is with a 125. Try running the fork oil at max height from the owners manual along with new compression settings.

How do you do Wheelies?

Pitdog: When I watch riders do wheelies, it's obvious to me that it's a lot easier for some than others. I'm an other. I can do those little power against weight wheelies but balancing the bike straight up while controlling the power and brakes is like a video game for me, stuff happens too fast. I guess you could call it a practiced art, in which practice makes confidence. Practicing on a 225 pound scooter is not my suggestion for you. Start on a bicycle by pulling up while pedaling. You will soon learn to pedal when needed to keep the wheel up, while braking with your hand to keep from going over. In time you will use these skills to wheelie your scoot with the power and the brake. Let time do it's work.

Is there a way to lower a 93 CR125 because I am very short, about 5'3." I don't want to get a kiddy bike. What should I do?

Pitdog: A CR125 is not a kiddy bike in any form. Soft springs, front and rear, will give you the most help since I would think you are also light. Slide the forks up in the triple clamps to the max recommended in the owners manual. Adjust your rear spring to the max amount of sack from the manual. Think back to the time Ricky rode a 125 after coming off his 100. He could
not touch both toes at the same time. Do you think that made a difference?

What is the major difference in exhaust pipes for 2 strokes, Pro Circuit and FMF? I heard that the stomach of FMF is acceleration and the muffler is for distance, maybe a bit of elaboration on 4 strokes will be good. . thanks...

Pitdog: In exhaust design for 2 strokes, the manufactures look for low RPM or high RPM power. We just can't get both. This is directed at the factory performance a scoot would exhibit. Riders style or type of event also calls for different power curves. I like the FMF pipe for the added low end grunt in tight sections of off road racing. That power down low may not be the best for the drag race to the first turn in an MX event. Short silencers help to relieve back pressure quickly allowing the motor to rev out faster. They are also popular for MX. A longer silencer is preferred in off-road and is also quieter. For 4 strokes, most of the performance is in the silencer although head pipe taper has some advantages. It's somewhat the same as 2 strokes in that the less back pressure, the faster the motor will climb to max power. The sound issue is the same, louder, with less low end. Inherent motor designs respond to exhaust systems differently. There are so many variables that exhaust brand becomes a minor issue.

I am asking on behalf of a friend. Can a 92 KDX200 be fitted with a WR200 Mikuni carb?

Pitdog: Dorsey would say I can make it work, so I must believe. Intake, air boot size, and carb body length will be your obstacles. What year WR? I like to keep things original for resale and service down the road.

Hi Mr. Dog. I am new to dirt biking and many of my friends suggest that I should get a four stroke to start out on. I have been looking for a Honda XR200 or 250. What are the main differences between these two bikes? Is the 250 A LOT faster? What is the weight difference between these bikes? I'm 5'10'' and I was wondering which one would fit me better. Thanks for the help.

Pitdog: The XR200 has been the same for something like twenty years. It is a very fun and dependable trail bike. If you start to push your trail riding up a notch, the fun stops and the pain begins. The XR250 is considered competition Enduro ready. With a little work it is a fun and capable race bike but don't try to MX, the fun to pain thing starts again. Also, the XR250 has been upgraded throughout the years so later models are better than early models. The 250 is not a lot faster than the 200, just a little better at everything with a bit more weight. Since you are 5'10", the 200 is a little small for you. The 250 would be a better choice but could cost a grand more for a late model. I would get the 250 or even better a CR so..... think.

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