Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - how to prepare, bike setup and maintenance.

It's breakin up,,, It's breakin up. Whoof!! I took my stock carb off of my 96 WR250 put it on a 93 YZ250........ the YZ now does great if I twist the throttle WFO but at low to mid throttle it breaks up real bad. I turned the screws and stuff, but no change. The flat slide carb off of the 93YZ improved my 96WR 200%. It's like riding a different bike. Please help this clueless puppy once again.  

Pitdog: Too rich, too rich! Turning the screws won't change anything but the very low air. You could have made either bike run good without changing carbs around, and that is my point. Late model 2 strokes control temperature with jetting. Sure they have a cooling system but have you ever found a thermostat? Nooo. Horsepower is heat. Heat comes from the fuel and air as they ignite under compression. Too much fuel and it's cold, too little and it runs like a striped ape then it seizes. If it breaks up when you open the throttle then it's cold and not burning all the fuel. Start reducing the fuel with the needle clip, going up in position lets the needle stay down which is lean. This can be done with most any carb on any type of scoot with tremendous results. If you go too lean however, read again about the ape. Every scoot needs to be jetted to the fuel and oil mix you will be running. Nobody else knows this but you so don't expect any bike to come jetted to your mix. Get it right then hold on tight.

Hey Mr. Dog. I recently got a '00 KDX 200 with the intention of joining FTR and starting to run in FTR Enduros.  The bike has been excellent so far, I ride it @ Croom most weekends (I live in Tampa, that's the closest place).  It has a tendency to eat plugs, however.  It is completely stock, no pipe, carb mods, etc.  I use Castrol A-747 at Kaw's 32:1 recommendations; the bike doesn't load up or smoke heavily.  If I don't religiously change the plug before every ride, it won't idle and will almost sputter at higher speeds (not a load-up, just a miss every now and then).  The dealer has told me that this is normal and is just something I have to live with. I don't mind changing a buck and a half plug every week, but is there something else that I can do? Carb mods?  Lean out the mix perhaps? If so, what ratio would you recommend?  Your advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Pitdog: 32:1 is as lean as you can go on the fuel. What you need is more air. The KDX has an air-box boot on the top that helps to keep water out in a really deep crossing. Hopefully we won't have much of that this season. Take the boot off and try raising the clip on the needle one notch This leans the low and middle out and has been a huge help in other KDX's. Adjust the air screw and idle stop so the thing sounds smooth at idle. You'll be surprised what these simple mods do for your performance.

What up Dog?  I just purchased a 1992 KDX200.   I've wanted one since I was 15. The rear suspension seems soft and it doesn't rebound to its full height.  Can you give me the English translation of "the nitrogen-filled, aluminum body, remote reservoir rear shock has 20-way compression and 18-way rebound damping, and infinitely adjustable threaded spring preload."  The reason for a '92 model are green backs, kids, job, wife, and my age. Thanks for your time.

Pitdog: That description sounds like the hype from the owners manual. The "threaded spring preload" is where you can start. Put the bike on a stand with the rear wheel hanging and measure total distance from the axle to a spot on the fender straight up. With all your gear on, have someone measure the same spots as your are sitting straight up on the seat. You need to have between 3 & 3/4 to 4 inches of sack. When just lifting the rear up with the bike on the ground the sag should be around a half an inch. This is where different springs come onto play. The KDX has a very entry level quality shock and I would think it's ability to perform would be coming to an end.
Have the oil serviced in it so a pro can give you an inspection report. I understand the green back thing as much as anybody so cover all the simple bases before that thing tosses you off.

Hello Pitdog. I have been trail riding for years but now I want to start racing. I bought some racing boots but It seems really hard to shift when I'm wearing them. How can I make it easier to shift?

Pitdog: MX boots are very stiff when new but really you need to be to protect your foot and leg. Wear them around the yard as much as you can to break them in. You could also try moving your shift lever one notch to make it easier to find. You need those boots to race so practice will make it easier to deal with.

Hello Pitdog!!  I bought a used 98 YZ250 and it fouls a plug about once a month. The bike has a DeltaForce reed valve and a Nollen pipe. The previous owner said that he had the carb jetted up to a stage 2 carb, what ever that means. I'm running 40:1 and 93 pump gas. That's what the owner said that he ran in it. I'm trying to set up my suspension for my W-H-ridding style. I stand 5'11" and weigh 200lbs. I ride in sugarsand with no jumps-just flat out hauling butt. The owner said that he left it stock. The bike seems to be real loose in the back and the front tries to washout at times. I left all of the settings where the owner had them because I don't know where the settings should be for the forks and shock. Can you help me PLEASE?? OH YEAH I'm running a NGK plug BR7ES gapped at .032.   Thanks for your help...  Paul

Pitdog: The 98 YZ250 had an excellent reputation for engine and suspension performance so somebody went the wrong way in changing it from stock. A lot of riders think that more fuel can make more power which is a major mistake without plug checks. Temperature control is the key. You must use a new plug and check it's color after riding the bike in a diverse area at a quick pace. Do not idle. You will need a light tan or gray color with dry tips and at the turn of the porcelain to be in the ballpark. Plug numbers only give you very minor temperature control and will not cure jetting woes. Gap the plug at .028. You must be careful of under jetting because your weight in sugar sand puts a lot of strain on the motor which leans it out. As far as the legs go, I would have the oil serviced in them and go back to the middle numbers on the clickers as a base to start testing. Usually a washing front means that the front isn't settling in for tire hookup because of too much compression, but to much rebound in the rear will do the same thing. Also in sugarsand, your tires should be fairly new soft terrain or you'll be wasting you time trying to make the thing turn. As with the jetting check, test your suspension in a familiar area doing laps at the same speed so your changes will be noticeable.

Where can I find out about "TM" bikes.

Pitdog: I found this thanks to Dorsey Bennett: Grizzly Cycles 
Any brand can be found at: Ronnie Cramer's

I recently bought a 95 YZ125 and it runs great, but I cant start it if it's not in neutral. What is the problem?

Pitdog: As the clutch plates, discs, basket, and hub wear the discs will not free themselves enough from the plates when you hold the clutch in. This causes the discs and plates to drag against each other and therefore hard to turn the motor over while in gear. After having several YZ125's, I can attest to their easily worn clutch parts. It's only a matter of money.

Should there be a hose on the carburetor that leaks gas? Where does it go? Suzuki 1989 RM125.

Pitdog: There's more than one hose that drains the overflow fuel from the carb. They both just run down so they can drain fuel without making a mess. If one of yours drains a lot, then your fuel level is too high in the bowl or the float needle is not shutting off.

I recently purchased a 1998 YZ400. It's set up for Supercross and the gearing isn't right. Can you tell me how many teeth were on the front and rear sprocket (standard). Thank you. BRAD, AUSTRALIA.

Pitdog: Stock was 14/49. That kind of stuff is in the owners manuel. Without one you'll be full of questions forever.

Hey Pitdog, I am old guy just getting by on his 92 KX500. We do a lot desert trail riding, lots of rocks and lots of speed. What is the best approach or thinking when setting up the rebound on my bike's suspension? I seem to have the compression adjustments set close enough to manage to stay aboard most of the time, although flying "w"s are common. Is a fast rebound better than slow?? Help and old guy out, maybe I can keep my feet on the pegs more often...Toughening up in Tucson.

Pitdog: Think about it this way, the more rebound you add to the front, the more the bars will stay down in a whoop section and therefore the more you need to pull up. This puts you back on the bike where the seat will launch you into the "flying W." As you add rebound to the rear, the spring packs down more in a series of whoops and then it's another "flying W." I like fast rebound in the front even though it makes a root section kinda bouncy. Oops, rocks in your case. For the rear, I like a medium rebound setting to control the swappies. Have someone video tape you in a section of whoops to see if you're centered over the bike with your legs straight. If not, work on your style as well as your setup.

Hey Dog. It's me again, Watts Racing, Yes I'm hanging my head in shame. I know you told me that there would be some fast and talented old farts in the Senior Quad class, and yes it's true they were there. But Dog, have you ever run to your bike or quad at the sound of the horn, thrown a leg over it, looked down and got that sickening feeling when you realized you didn't leave the kick starter folded out (Stupiddddd). Yea dog, I'm not making any excuses, but you can bet that as we cross the Georgia line and come back into Florida things are going to be peachy for Watts Racing next race. Are you Down with that D0GGGGGGGGGGGG!

Pitdog: Told you so, told you so. One nice thing about racing a two wheeled scoot is your holder might have checked out your mind slip.

How does a mint-condition 94 RM125 compare to a new brand new one?

Pitdog: It's seven years old and it's mint! Amazing. 94 is in the era of recent technology so there's not going to be a major difference. I would think that for an entry level rider, a very "low hours" 94 would be a good start because of its low cost. An A or B rider would choose a brand new one because all the small changes in the last seven years would make quite a difference to them.

Hello Pitdog. I have a question for you. What is the best recommended fuel/oil ratio for a 97 KTM250 EXC? Thanx old dog. Appreciate it>>>>>RaceFace

Pitdog: I've covered strategies for fuel/ratios many times so read down the column for additional logic. The main thing to remember is that changing the ratio will affect your jetting, so change those too unless you're trying to solve a problem with the fuel/oil.

Dear Pitdog. I own an old Suzuki TS125 Enduro bike, reconditioned to 200cc in Japan. It's kind of old but do you have any comments on upgrading this bike, or should I just throw it away in the slumps? I live in Singapore and I love this bike but do you have any suggestions as to make this bike almost as good as a Motocross bike? The correct tuning of the carbs, or any tips to make this bike as good as it's sister the RM's?

Pitdog: Here in the states, we would run it in a Vintage class depending on the year model. That way it's not as important to be as good as an RM, which it will never come close. I believe for you, it's a question of how worn out are the major parts and can you afford to replace them in order to make the bike somewhat reliable. Those style bikes are very popular in Japan because of their light weight and ease of operation on dirt roads. Think about how you want to ride it and how much performance you expect from it compared to what it would cost to have a newer model. Read down the column for general tuning tips.

Hi. I just got a dirtbike and I can't find any where to ride. I live in Northwest Florida. There are a lot of trails but they are all reserved for hunting. Please help me.

Pitdog: Well young person, I could tell by the typing that I checked for you that you are just starting out in more ways than one, but that doesn't change the land use issue for you more than any other rider. I do know there are some Motocross tracks up that way so check them out. Also the Tallahassee Trail Riders is the FTR club for that area so find out more about them on this site and ask them what you can do to help. Check out the bike shops in your area and ask around about public riding areas.

Hi Dog. After witnessing the H\S at Osteen, I would like to know what it takes to waterproof my YZ. Any suggestions? What precautions should I take when riding in water and mud to keep running? (Such as keeping mud out of the radiators.) Release your wisdom upon us. Does the Dog roll in the mud or dig holes in it? Thanks Dog!

Pitdog: I roll in it, laughing at how riders attack a mud section. For water, you can tape your air-box to limit areas that would take direct hits from splash. For mud, grease the under side of you fender areas so the sticking mud won't weight the bike down as much. Wire your grips because water will loosen the glue. You could make some tear-offs for your radiators with screen material. I've seen seasoned Enduro riders come in with very little mud after a mud run. What's their secret? Find better lines.

Dear Pitdog. I recently purchased a Suzuki RM125. When I start it up it goes really and is quick. The problem I face is that sometime I release the clutch and the bloody thing conks out. I must inform you that this is the first bike I've ever had so please could you tell me what I'm doing wrong.
P.S. I think it might be that I'm letting the clutch out oto quick. Is this right for a racing clutch? Yours sincerely, Olly.

Pitdog: I know, the problem is it was built in Japan, you ride it here in the states, and you're British. Naaah. Small bore bikes really suffer from horsepower when the revs are low so you just need to slip the clutch longer until you get going a bit. Lean forward a nad when you go to take off, so you can instantly control a wheelie or wheel spin will help too.

Hi, I'm an ATV virgin. I recently purchased a Honda 400EX quad. It's my first off-road motorcycle. My biggest problem is trying to find a place to ride it legally!! I live in south Broward County and the only place I know of is Croom and that's 6 hours away! HELP ME! Someone tell me where I can ride safely and legally. THANX.

Pitdog: Welcome to the real world of off-road motorcycling which includes less riding areas than ever before. If you had read some of this column, a lot of riders ask the same question from South Florida. The only place I have seen posted is the Big Cypress National Park (haven't been there). Check with the local FTR club on this site to see how you can help with their efforts in your area.

Wuzzup Dog? I am 15 years old and want to know what would be the best food to eat before a race? I heard pasta is. What do you personally eat before a race? Dog food or what do you recommend?

Pitdog: Pasta is starch with turns into quick energy for your body. It also easily fills you up so you don't feel sluggish in the morning. The problem is most of the fuel from the starch is not there to help you the next day in the race. I like a mixed dinner the night before which includes minerals, protein, low carbohydrates, some fat, and lots of water. I'll use a power type bar and a training drink in the morning to keep it light and take on additional hydration. Keep in mind no food will magically make you perform during the event. Foods that are sugars or turn into sugars trick your body into feeling strong but then you bonk. You will need to build your muscles with a balanced diet including proteins and cardiovascular training if you want to start strong and stay strong till the end. All this also effects your confidence which is another story. Dog food makes me fat by the way.

I have an old 89 RM125 that is really flat on bottom end power but is quick and nimble on top end. What can I do to improve the bottom end power?

Pitdog: You said the magic word, old. Even if you just took it out of the crate, it would still be a snail compared to today's 125s. Because of the age, I'll bet the compression just isn't there anymore. At low RPMs compression is very important for grunt and you say yours is flat so guess what. Have the cranking compression checked anyway so you'll know. Other than that, does it run clean when you open the throttle? Put in a new plug and check for a light color after riding hard for ten minutes in your favorite area. You could make it snap better if the jetting is too rich.

Yo Pitdog...I've got a simple questions for you. How do you make a 99 RMX250 "works"? Please include what parts to change a modifications need to be done. Thanks, you're old dog.

Pitdog: Just between you and me, a "works" RMX like an ISDE model is really a RM with lights, Sparky, and a tag. A RMX is an OK scoot, like the KDX, but for serious fun they just come up short. Beside that, I'll bet a true "works" factory scoot cost way more than several new RMs. Where do you want to start?
Old but wise.

What up Pitdog? Listen, I have a RM250 that rips. The problem is a leak of oil mixed with antifreeze leaking out the dry side. What could it be, a bad gasket or what? Can you help me out?

Pitdog: By the dry side I guess you mean the stator side of the crank. If so then your gearcase oil is full of antifreeze. RM's are hard on their case half's where the crank bearings fit. This causes the seals to take a pounding, not to mention the overall vibration. Usually the antifreeze gets into the oil through the back water pump seal. If you split the cases you can inspect the bearing area for a loose fit. Then get out your wallet.

I just got a used (1996) Yamaha WR250. I haven't had a motorcycle in about 10 years and used to ride all the time. Since its been so long, I am a newbie at the gas ratio that I need. I would like to know what the best fuel to oil ratio is, ( how much premix oil for 5 gallon gas can -- and is there a certain brand I need ). I have searched everywhere to find it but seems to be pretty elusive. Dealers like to tell me 3 or 4 different ratios, and the Yamaha site give no info on it. I'm hoping you will know what the best is?  Thanks..

Pitdog: I've gone over this in the past but it's been awhile so I'll review. The reason you are hearing different ratio opinions is because what you are really hearing is different setup strategies. With more oil in the fuel, jets will be larger. With less oil it's the opposite. I'm not a M/Xer so my setup is mainly for Enduros and some Hares. This means I want a somewhat fat main but a clean low end for slow going. This keeps the cylinder cooler on the road sections and cleaner in the tight sections. Because more oil in the fuel dilutes the octane, I run a 50:1 (do the math for gallons of fuel) mix with Champion oil (hard to find) and pump gas. This also allows me to adjust the ratio if the air is too low in O2 by simply adding oil, a last minute strategy adjustment. I know, some guys say that's too low in oil to protect the piston and crank but I'll say this, my scoot ran three series last season without any repairs and still runs like a scalded dog with something like 100 hours on the piston. I've always run 50:1 in all my scoots with excellent piston life, nuff said. Your setup will be the result of what you hear from the motor, see on the spark plug, and feel in your seat. When one of those three isn't right look for the answer with testing.

Hey Dog, thanks for your answer on the Senior Quad class. As far as it goes with the brown bottle, for me it's in the bag. And by the way, my horns are torqued to the max with green Locktite. Lets the games begin. Watts Racing

Pitdog: Green Locktite, isn't that the permanent kind? Hum.

I recently fell of my Aprilia Rally scooter and wrecked all
of the stickers. Do you know where I can get replacement's?

Pitdog: Seminole Power Sports carries Aprilia. Phone them at 407-322-3253,
and keep the shiny side up now.

Hey Dog. Just signed up for the Senior Quad class. I wanted to know if it's out, who's signed up for that class? Gotta know who to lock horns with or in your case who to fight over the bowl with. Only kidding Dog.  If you can do some spying for Watts Racing. Joe Watts FTR#01-48228

Pitdog: It's going to be a surprise for everyone. I do know the club did three trophies not knowing what to expect. My thoughts are this. I know a lot of two wheeled guys look forward to the Vet class because they think the younger riders are to much for them. In a way they are correct. But also consider that preparation, wisdom, planning, and determination are factors in
winning. I'll say it again, but I feel I'm faster now than I ever was because of the above. You might just be surprised to find how many fast senior ATV guys are gonna be at that finish with a brown bottle when you roll in! Better line up with your horns on tight.

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