Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - how to prepare, bike setup and maintenance.

Hey, my name is Scott and I am 15. I recently bought a 2001 Banshee and want to start racing Hare Scrambles. I do not know who to contact, do you? Also what would be the best mods for Hare Scrambles? (tires pipes )?
Banshee King

Pitdog: For the FTR H/S series official information, contact the general manager at; businessmanager@floridatrailriders.org. For the Banshee, tires would be the least expensive mods with suspension the most costly and the most benefit. Performance pipes will bring out the top end performance at a sacrifice of low end and quiet sound. I'd run it stock for a few races to see what works for the other riders and then make a plan. I'll bet you'll want better handles.

Pitdog. I have a 4 stroke water cooler bike. How often should I change the water/coolant? What's the best liquid to use for cooling? I ride Hare Scrambles and trails, not MX. Thanks.

Pitdog: 4 Strokes have us doing different maintenance procedures than the 2 strokes always did. That is, we don't pull the cylinder off at least once a season to inspect for wear. Therefore, coolant should be changed, along with a major bike service, at least once a year. Do not use coolant sold for autos because it is too aggressive in cleaners for any scoot motor. Buy the coolant sold at motorcycle parts counters and use a 50/50 mix with mineral free water for best protection. Also, don't use any flush material when you do the change. Be sure to double check the level after you run it a bit.

Pit Dog. I've been a 2-stroke rider for all of my off-road days, but I just broke down and bought a dual sport. It's a DR350 (not the electric start model).  It's got a 435cc kit and some other mods. My question is this: it starts up really easy when its 'cold' (like when it hasn't run in an hour or a week or so), but it takes several kicks to get it going when its hot, like when I shut it off in the middle of a ride.  I'm guessing I should be able to make it easier to start hot (and probably harder to start cold) by playing with the jetting, maybe the pilot jet or air (fuel?) screw?  It may be a bit lean now, though the pilot is 1 size larger than stock (came with the big bore kit).  It backfires on closed throttle a fair amount.  Thanks for your help, because I'd rather wear myself out riding the bike instead of kicking it!

Pitdog: I had a DR350 with a mill over piston and other mods. When we did that, we also added a larger oil cooler because we knew the heat displacement factor would go up. I know we changed a lot of jetting in testing but it still backfired like yours. Setting the idle high helped with that and guarded against stalling. We also used those filter disc cut into the air box sides to help with flow. You should try to make your fuel low speed screw work at about 2 turns out for best results. That may mean an even larger pilot. I think your cylinder temperature is so high when you shut off after riding, that it's just vaporizing the fuel when you try to restart. You can prove that by checking the plug for fuel after several kicks, or even spraying extra fuel in the carb and kicking. I would also add a larger oil cooler anyway.

Pit Dog. What is the best way to clean a 2-stroke air filter?  I have a TwinAir in my YZ and I don't want to spend the money on the "recommended" cleaning solution.  Any suggestions? Sean  Denver, CO.

Pitdog: Yamaha has a recommended cleaning solution? If they do, I'll bet it's similar to a gallon of mineral spirits that can be bought for 2 bucks. Because we oil a filter media to help trap dirt and water, I start with mineral sprits to cut the oil. After that, I use the same cleaner that I use on the scoot, a 50/50 mix of liquid Tide and water in a rose sprayer. This cuts the rest of the oil and cleans out the dirt, but is gentle to the material. Remember, it is very important to get the filter completely clean of grit so you might wash and rinse more than once. Pour back on enough oil so that you can squeeze a half an ounce back out.

Dear Pitdog. I just bought two new bikes, a RM125, and a Warrior350. Do you know any places at all around South Florida to ride? I live on Croom and Pines Blvd. Is there any thing close to that address?

Pitdog: The only public area I have found for South Florida is the Big Cypress National Park.

Hey Pitdog. I live in Central Florida and I just got a 96 KX125. I'm looking for some places to ride so could you help me out please.     Thanx.

Pitdog: I'm guessing you're thinking fun ride or practice. Orlando Motocross track in Bithlo is open most of the week and they have time sets for beginners and C riders. For off-road you will have to travel to Crooms ORV park in Brooksville or the Big Scrub section of the Ocala Nation Forest.

Hey Dog. I run stiffer springs in the front and rear. I did weigh about 205 but now I'm down to 180. Would this be a noticeable difference in the way my bike handles now? I went riding this past Sunday at place that was pretty rough, the bike didn't feel like it normally does. It felt real busy, moving around a lot. Could me losing the 25 lbs contribute to the different handling? Can I slow the rebound down some or should I put my stock springs back on? I haven't changed my riding style and I wasn't having an off day. It handled different at my regular riding spot, so I don't think it was the new track. I thought I saw the dog this past weekend, but it started to rain and the dog put his nose down and went under the face slappers and got away from me so I couldn't stop and ask him. Can the dog reach into his bag of tricks and offer a solution?

Pitdog: I think you did see the Dog. I was trying to look between the bar pad and the bar mount because my goggles were useless. Nevertheless, trying to catch the Dog is a lesson in futility. Now to your question. Now that you have trimmed down slightly, it's seems the bike deflects or does stuff you didn't notice before. Keep in mind that this is the rainy season and the trails are laid down more than any other time. This means kickers are going to be up, especially in the straights. If you slow the rebound down that will take some jitters out but it will also hold the bike down on the springs more. This will make the straights better but the whoops worse. Keep in mind that as you get to be a better rider, you will want stiffer springs to keep the bike up in the whoops where most time is lost. As you gain more confidence to get your head forward and your butt up, you won't be as concerned about how much the bike dances under you. I would take some compression out for off-road riding and testing. You might think about taking some big washers out of the front stack the next time you do fork service.  

Dear Pitdog. As you are well aware the Hare Scramble Series is right around the corner. So I've decided to put a top end in my 93 RM125. I purchased a new factory Suzuki piston. When I opened the box I found a piston that looked like previously purchased factory pistons except for the finish. It has a roughish dark gray finish everywhere, even on the machined surfaces. When I questioned the dealer they said that the part number has been upgraded to one for a newer scoot, but could not answer my question about the finish. Is the gray finish caused by heat treating or some type of hardening process, or do you think I got a reject piston? Thanks for the help. See you at the first race. #89

Pitdog: I believe you are correct about the heat treatment, or coating, but the parts guy is not usually the one to ask. It's the guys in service that get the bulletins about new designs fitting older scoots that might have answered your question. The parts guy just wants to know make, model, and year. At this point I would have more concern about the cylinder than what the piston looks like. Have you looked closely at the plating and measured the bore? Pistons wear mostly in the ring landings but will crack easily when the fit is too loose. Also the ring will catch the plating where it chips around the ports. A new piston might last 50 hours if the fit is good, 2 hours if it's not so good.

Wassup DOG? Well, I am gearing up to go to Croom's for the weekend.....(hubby's birthday). We just purchased 2 Polaris Sportsman's and we would like to find out some riding areas in North Florida.
Thanks a mill....NO BISCUITS, but I will be sure you get that ham bone.  Jennifer

Pitdog: I found this Web site on areas for off-road vehicles;  http://www.recreation.gov/search.cfm
Looks like a good directory. Also the Ocala National Forest has areas.

Hello Pit Dog, I saw you at the Banquet this year and was overwhelmed by your natural beauty and grace as you ascended the stage..you are one classy dog!  My Old Dog instincts gave me the message that you are in fact a female...is this true?  If it is I am going to petition the FTR to start a "buddy" class similar to the one the AMA used to have, and perhaps you would consider being my riding partner.  I am a little long of the tooth, and not real fast anymore, but I assure you my technical riding skills are still pretty sharp!  ARF! ARF!   Whadayasay..."THOR, WONDER DOG FROM THE NORTH"

Pitdog: Imagine, a female having this much knowledge about all things concerning off-road motorcycles. Naaaah. Who you saw was a figment of your imagination dressed up to look like the Pitdog on the Web Site. This was mostly for the kids but you can play too, to a limit. If I rode with you in an event it would only be in the Sidecar class, I guarantee. North where? Carolina?

Dear Pitdog. I just bought a 96' YZ250 and I'm currently preparing it to race in Enduros. I don't like the way the front brake hose is routed under the fork leg. It's the same on RM's and KX's. I think its a bit vulnerable and could get damaged by rocks etc. I've noticed a few factory bikes in the Mags have theirs routed like the CR's, between the forkleg and the wheel. This is also standard on the KDX, (an Enduro bike).  I've also read that Randy Hawkins modifies his WR/YZF in this way and that it is due to some patent Honda has on their  motocrossers. Is this a worthwhile modification or am I just wasting my time??  tsarsheane@eircom.net

Pitdog: All the scoots I've had lately have the brake hose under the fork leg. I've never had a problem damaging the hose although the guards take a good pounding. The enemies of brake hose design are length and expansion. After market designs work on these issues. The lower fork leg also has a channel for the hose giving it some protection. I would recommend a brake guard for the hose and rotor unless you're looking for better front brake performance.

I was wondering if the Service Honda CR500 Aluminum Frame is legal to race in the Harescrambles series?  I noticed that there is no ruling in the FTR rules or in the AMA rules against the swapping of frames for Enduro or Hare Scramble races. Thanks.

Pitdog: The Pitdog doesn't speak for official ruling, but I see like you that the FTR series does not cover any restriction but displacement. Fortunately club racing is open to one off designs.

I want to pre-enter for the first Hare Scramble in the Senior Quad Class.How is this done since the entry form does not have this class, since it is a new class?
Joe Watts/Watts Racing

Pitdog: The first two events are always subject to the rule changes at the banquet. The clubs just have to be aware and adapt. I know that CFTR has already made arrangements for the class and trophies. Since the flyer was out before the banquet just write it in and they will add you to the new book at sign-up. Have you secured your number through the business manager?

Hi. I have a question on how to get more power out of my 87 Yamaha Warrior. Should I get a pipe or rebuild the motor? Or would a pipe even help me out at all. Can you help me? Thanks.

Pitdog: Considering the year, I would think a fresh motor would be the most benefit. In most cases on a 4 Stroke, a pipe helps top end while making more noise. More noise is not friendly in most riding areas so think real hard about your image. Also, a fresh motor is a dependable motor.

Pitdog: I have been racing for about 7 years now on Supercross style tracks. I race outdoor style tracks only 2 or 3 times a year but for some reason I go twice as fast and feel much more comfortable on outdoor style tracks. I now ride a 97' CR125. What can I do to make myself and my bike adjusted for Supercross?

Pitdog: Let's look at a couple of riders that are the latest news, namely Jeremy and Ricky. While Jeremy is very hard to beat in Supercross, Ricky struggles. It's vice versa on outdoor tracks, however. Jeremy came up riding BMX then moved to the California scene in MX. Ricky started out in Florida riding MX at outdoor tracks like Dade City, Bithlo, Hardrock, and Gainsville. BMX is all about timing. A rider needs to put his wheel exactly where he intends in order to win a short race in a tight pack of riders. The track doesn't change much. Outdoor MX riders need to adapt to the track as it changes during their motos. Lead riders have the confidence to handle the bike as better lines open up during the moto. Your outdoor ability may be the result of your confidence riding outdoor tracks compared to Supercross. Focus and timing are the key to Supercross while confidence and endurance prevail in outdoors. I should also mention that bike set up differs at MX tracks.  Your set up needs to be compliant for ruts and long straights in outdoor, while at shorter groomed tracks, your bike feels better set up stiffer for the crusher landings and faster turns. For you, your focus on your riding style will be bring speed in Supercross. You must put that tire exactly where you intended instead of hauling butt into a section hoping for the best. Also consider changing your settings as much as six clicks at different tracks.

Is there a place called Croom in Florida that has good ATV riding? Also can you tell me some good spots for ATV riding around Naples? Thanks Moe.

Pitdog: Hey Moe, Again, there are no public riding areas in South Florida. Croom Park is at I-75 and SR-50.

Dear Pitdog. I am starting my second season with FTR in September. I was wondering what the ruling was on changing the C250 class to Saturday? Are they going to change it or are they not sure yet?

Pitdog: As always, official information comes from the general manager of FTR. I can see that changes for the season have been posted on the info line of the site. No H/S changes are listed. That makes me think no changes were made.

Hey Dog, I know you are king of the Dogs. Could I give my experience on the fuel-oil mix? As I compete with the Dog, I can't give all my advice, but the 927 and the 93 octane is what I have been using for years at 40:1.I ran it in my 97, and 98 YZ's with no problems at all. It burns clean and it's wear factor is excellent. I did go down on the main and the pilot one step. Make sure you check the plug when you do any re-jetting. My 250 runs killer, gets about 32 miles to the tank and is super crisp. If your YZ was motocrossed, it shouldn't be hurt at all. Most M/X guy's pride themselves in taking good care of their bikes. Just be consistent on mixing your premix, and do a couple plug checks when jetting. Hope this helps. Thanks for allowing me to offer my thoughts Pitdog. See you on the first row, woops.

Pitdog: As we can see, jetting was leaned out in order for the 93 octane fuel to make additional horsepower. Even though 40:1 fuel oil is slightly richer, it's not that much of a change from 32:1. Crisp performance is his goal here and plug checks were his test. All good.

Just wondering where you do your riding in Florida?
I ride at Crooms but am trying to find other spots. I live in St. Petersburg, FL.
Thanks, John

Pitdog: When you ride at Crooms, you are in the closest riding area to South Florida. I also ride in the South Ocala Forest area but that's even farther for you. If you don't belong to an FTR club, in your area, then those public lands might be your only choice.

Hey Dog. Let me start by saying I don't like to buy used bikes. This year I bought a slightly used 2000 YZ 250. He ran Yamalube at 44.1 with race gas, Castrol gas I think. I use 93 Amoco with a dose of Klotz Octane Booster, 927 at 40.1 with no problems on my bike. I ran Yamalube at the recommendation of the dealer on my brand new 88 YZ. Hated it. Is my new scoot gonna hate the 927 or should I suck it up and use Yamalube? Mind you I have the bike on the stand setting it up for Hare Scrambles. He raced Motocross. I have not tried my gas mix yet. Advice accepted with grace.

Pitdog: From your description of his mix, it looks like he was running some lean jetting. This is good for MX because he can take advantage of the low oil ratio and the high octane level to make more horsepower. Also lean jetting isn't as much of a risk of engine damage in MX because there are very little long straights like we have at Hares. I would suggest doing plug checks in a section that is like a Hare at your race pace. Mix oils have different flash points because of their blends. This affects jetting from one oil to the next. I've found some oils leave more sludge in the power valves and packing than others. Whatever you end up with your jetting will like it better if you stay with it.

Hey Pitdog. I am going to my first race in September and I don't know what class to ride in. I've never raced before and I am 7 years old. I am riding an automatic clutch bike. What classes are available at most Hare Scrambles for me?

Pitdog: First of all, welcome to FTR racing. Please note that official information does come from the FTR business manager. I think you can ride in the Peewee Class if your bike is 50cc. You will have to decide A, B, OR C Class depending on your speed. I will be there to watch you.

I have been reading a lot of topics on setting up your suspension. What do you feel is the best setting for free sag and spring rates for an OLD guy riding with his kids? I am not as light as I used to be and don't have the desire to be pounded by a harsh setup. What are your suggestions? 

Pitdog: I don't believe I've ever met a rider that would purposefully set their bike up to pound them no matter how fast they are. Basically, what you will lose in a soft setting is the bike's ability to hold itself up in a series of whoops. This becomes more of a problem when the surface is loamy. Most manufacturers suggest a base setting of 4 inches of sack, for the shock, when you are sitting straight up on the seat with all your gear on. The sag will be relative to the spring rate after sack is set. Example, a hard spring might leave more sag because the preload is so low. The real problem with all this is that dampening rates are also relative to the ride. More compression helps to hold the bike up in a whoop section but can be less inviting in a root section. More rebound helps to calm the action but also holds the bike down in its travel. In addition, your riding style loads the suspension in its on way. My suggestion for riders has always been for them to focus on what aspect of the suspension action wears you out the most. I like the bike to stand up on its springs and have light dampening settings. This helps to clear those little surprises in an Enduro trail as well as stay on top of a whoop section. Your best bet is to select a small trail section that you can ride repeatedly to test some different settings. Also keep in mind that your tire style and pressure have some affect on the handles. I use soft terrain at 12 lb.

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