Pit Dog answers questions about
Dirt Bikes and Trail |
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| Page 14 |
I would like to know where I can buy a power valve band
for my 1982 KX 80? Happy Trails.
Pitdog: I think you are trying to say
"power band." For a more complete answer read down to some of the other Pitdog
answers. In the mean time, I'll bet your friends are telling you that your bike does not
have a power band. It does, It's just not as strong as it was because of the bike's age
and newer bikes have power valves. Even a good running 82 KX80 would not be close to a
late model in performance. Don't despair however, if you are just getting into off-road
riding any bike is better than no bike. I'm sure with it you are having "happy
trails."
I just moved to Tennessee. Got any ideas where I can find
info on where to ride Enduros around Bristol? They tell me a mountain there has 10 miles
of trails you can ride for a few dollars but no luck in finding it.
Pitdog: SERA and SE&TRA both hold
Enduros in that part of the Southeast. Check Cycle News and the Internet for contact info.
The Daniel Boone National Forest has a number of riding areas I am told. I will be
checking them out this summer. In the mean time be resourceful and ask around the bike
shops or look on the Internet for clubs in your area. I've been desperate enough to follow
bikes on trailers to find out what's up in a strange area. Put your ear to the ground and
listen.
Sir Mister Pitdog; I've been asking questions about
Enduros and getting comments about lots of water. Are they marked out like Harescrambles,
or are they really that wet? It all sounds good, anyway I am curious about being prepared.
Besides drinking water, what else do most riders take along in their packs? Tools, parts,
tubes, air/co2, etc.? Tell me more. I am planning on the Alligator. Mike from Miami /
XR650. Thank you.
Pitdog: Some years back Mike, you would do
better on a Jetski! Lately, it's been a problem of too dry. So if I was speaking of
lately, I would be talking about drinking water. Yes, Enduros are marked like Hares except
there are no green double arrows. You should stay within 20 feet of the orange arrows in
either event but an Enduro trail will be harder to follow. Enduros are laid out for
mileage over 60, while a Hare usually has a 7 mile loop. An Enduro course covers many
different types of terrain because of the total distance so water crossings become part of
it. In one of my other answers I told a story of help from Ashley Brewer because he
carries a lot of stuff. Me, I just carry a spare plug with wrench, a pull strap, towel,
small screwdriver, goggles, gloves, and a power bar. These are the things that I have
needed more than once so that's pretty good odds. Since I usually ride on a row with
buddies, if one of us had a major problem we would encourage the rider who needed the most
points. That's just how things go sometimes. For the Alligator you will need luck,
and more luck. DDR has been doing that event for some 30 years and has the reputation from
Cycle News as the narlyest event they every rode. Being said, I would call in all my
markers.
Dear Pit Dog, I'm not the young pup I once was. However I
still love the snarling competition of Hare Scrambles. Being a little older I find myself
running out of juice near the end of the battle. I now have a full time job and can't ride
as much as I'd like to keep in shape. However, I do have a lot of free evenings that I'd
like to devote to training. I've been looking for some publications or video tapes which
outline proper exercises and training techniques but haven't had much luck. Do you have
any recommendations?
Pitdog: Boy I love it when a plan comes
together. You sound like me talking to myself about 4 years ago. I had a nice scooter but
could not find the time, or the funds to do the practicing that is needed to compete
off-road. I tried running and weight machines and all kinds of stuff that did not give me
the training I needed to race to the finish. Then I started working with a bunch of guys
that all rode scooters but also rode mountain bikes after work. They all dragged me and my
all steel mountain bike out one evening for an hour session. The hook was set, but the
steel bike had to go. Since then my economy aluminum bike has seen most of the premier
mountain bike areas in the Southeast. It has given me more than the hardest workout I have
ever had. It's increased all my skills as a motorcyclist without riding a motorcycle.
After dark we run a helmet light to make it more of a challenge. Basically I've stumbled
across the training secret most of the world class racers use and it's more fun than
anything for what it cost. But hey, don't spread it around. Nobody will go to work. We all
will just eat, sleep, and ride.
Pit Dog, does "FTR" include ATVs along with the
scoots and if so how do I become a member? Also I have not found any popular places
to ride in my area if you know of any places to ride in the Lee County area please tell?
It would be greatly appreciated if the pit dog could help.
Limited in LEE.
Pitdog: Dog gone right FTR has ATV action in
our events, and good times along with it. Look on this site for the club listing and get
in touch with Southwest Florida Trail Riders for more information on the club in your
area. I don't know much about Lee County but the Crooms Off-Road Park is in the middle of
the state at Route 50 and Interstate 75. In the mean time, E-mail our General Manager for
more information about joining FTR. (DBJ@TOTCON.com).
You could also pull up the flyer for the next Hare Scrambles and look at the agenda for
the weekend. Welcome.
Pit Dog, I have had all my off road suspension mods and
service done at Performance Engineering. I feel they have done a great job and feel they
have always welcomed FTR members. Are you sure Performance Engineering is not into off
road stuff.
Pitdog: Thank you for your personal input to
the readers. I have used P.E. twice and have been disappointed. A third time will not
happen. They only know me as an old trail rider and that is how it will remain. Could I be
over reacting? You bet! P.E. supports a lot of top riders in FTR, Dusty Morgan for
example. They also bring a huge amount of support to our magazine and the FTR banquet.
However, I have also been witness to a number of mysterious failures. As I said before
this column is focused on riders coming into the sport with a light approach to serious
questions. My personal experience at it obviously commands my opinion. With the legacy of
the Keylon family and now Kenny's work with Pro Action, I would hope you can see why I
recommend them. Finally, since this is an open forum, I would imagine our words will get
back to P.E. Here's hoping they will be viewed as positive input to their continued
success.
I have a 98 KTM 300 e/xc and don't like the valving on
the shock. Does you know (i) if I can throw a 99 shock on my KTM or (ii) a shop near
Orlando Florida that can revalve my shock to 99 specs?
Pitdog: The only shop in Orlando is
Performance Engineering and they are not into off-road stuff. The earlier the KTM's
without linkage the worst they were. I would use Pro Action (ad in the FTR mag.), for
local suspension work. A new 99 shock is big bucks.
Would you like riding if you were a person and not a dog,
and do you think riding is dangerous?
Pitdog: The Pitdog is a writer in this
column and a rider on the track. Fortunately he is a person on his scooter so his tail
doesn't get run over. Now, the answer to the next question is, heck yeah! Dogily, I have
broken collar bones, shoulder rotators, and back disc just from racing. Some of these
injuries I will never completely recover from. It seems like every time I come home with
an injury my wife asks "Are you done racing now?" But she already knows the
answer. If it comes to the point when I can't open the throttle I'll make a gas pedal, or
a device for my teeth. I will never stop because of the so called danger. Just look at all
the amateurs that come to a Hare Scramble weekend or Enduro. How many get to ride away in
the meat wagon? Most of the time nobody. So what does this tell us? Is off-road racing
dangerous? Of course it is. What I do recognize is that the clubs are controlling the
events with an eye on safety. The riders are wearing the protective gear that allows them
to compete at their given level without high odds of injury. We are having more fun than
the majority of the people in the world that think it's too dangerous for them. We as
racers say, let them be couch potatoes. What we have means more than us than the thought
of the danger. I think the danger is driving to the event without my gear on.
Pit Dog, I am considering getting into dirt bike
racing. I think I would like to race in Hare Scramble's. I can't afford to
start off with new equipment. What should I look for in a bike? What brands do you
recommend, and why? 2 Stroke or 4 Stroke? I weigh 200lbs. What size bike
do you recommend? What protective gear is required to race? I realize this is
a lot of questions but your expert opinion would be appreciated.
Pitdog: Well, first of all, you will need to
hire someone to cut the grass and paint the house because your couch potato life will be
history. The best part is, you will be in better shape, you'll sleep better, you'll like
your job again, the kids will magically be angels, your wife will constantly be looking
for a place to hide, and your dog will guard your stuff. Basically heaven on earth.
Considering your 200lbs, I would not look under 200 CCs. The Kawasaki KDX 200 would be a
great bike to start with, but it will need spring help for your size. You could ride a
Honda XR600 with no changes. To keep the cost down start by looking for a used bike. When
inspecting the bike look for loose shifter, brake, pegs, and other levers to give you an
idea of the hours on the unit. Looks can be deceiving because plastic is cheap, hard
parts are not. Ask the owner if there is an area where you could take a small ride to test
the transmission and listen to the motor. If you have a buddy that races, maybe ask him to
go with you. Your race bike will need aluminum bars, soft tires, O-ring chain, and bark
busters to get started so count those as cash. A new bike may not be the best
investment at this time because you may not like it's design or you may want to ride in
another class. As far as protective gear goes, get a copy of the FTR Rule Book for what's
required. (E-mail for a copy to DBJ@TOTCON.com). I
wear, thick socks, bicycle shorts, MX jersey and pants, knee pads, chest protector with
drinking system attached, MX full face helmet, goggles sometimes with roll-offs, MX
gloves, and MX boots. Overall, make a plan for what you will need at least to get started
and set a budget. Understand the weekend cost for an average event. Try to buddy up to
share the cost. Decide on the Beginner class on Saturday or the C Class on Sunday. Get
ready for a lifetime of fun that will rock your world forever.
Hello Mr. Pitdog. Are there any Hare Scrambles or Enduros
during bike week? I never rode an Enduro before. How do they compare to Hares? Thank you
for the set up tips on my XR650l for River Ranch. Mike
Pitdog: Using the schedule listing on this
site, The Suncoast Trial Blazers have their Hare Scrambles on March 4&5. And the GNCC
will be run on March 7. Or you could ride the Alligator Enduro on March 9, but you need to
get your entry in because Rows are limited. Use the club listing to contact Daytona Dirt
Riders. Plus there's a SE&TRA Hare Scrambles in South Carolina if you're into driving
on March 12. If you could do all of that, then you could hold a candle for guys like Larry
Walls, but you might wear out those gloves you're getting for Christmas. (Oops,dog out of
the bag!) Comparing Enduro to Hares, to ride a Hare you start on a line with a bunch
of riders and ride as hard as you can for about an hour and a half then you're done. To
ride an Enduro, you start on your minute with up to four other riders and try to stay on a
set pace so that you get to a certain place at an exact time while riding for three to
five hours. Sometimes you can't ride fast enough, sometimes you ride to hot. It's a race
of strategy, endurance, and all your skills mostly out of site of another rider. Which
sounds like more fun to you? Uh huh.
Hey Dog; What is the proper way to oil an air filter?
Should you dip or pour? How much is too much, and what should it look like when
it's done? Thanks for your help.
Pitdog: You should dip with your thumb and
forefinger, but that's another story. I punch a hole in the air filter oil bottle seal so
I can squirt the filter around the side and a smiley face on top. My objective is to waste
as little oil as possible while the filter material looks colored completely after
squeezing as hard as I can. To much oil can foul the plug and block air, while to little
doesn't help stop the dust. Some riders wear latex gloves to protect their hands from the
cleaner and oil while working also. Oiling is important but a clean filter is more
important. I use mineral spirits to cut the oil out of a dirty filter then laundry soap to
clean the dirt. Keep soaping and rinsing until the filter is squeaky clean. Oiling it
right away helps to disburse the oil in the foam. A K+N filter would require spray oil of
course because you can't squeeze them.
Mister Pitdog Sir. I ride a XR650l and know it is a
little heavier than other bikes. I love riding it hard off road and am planning to run
river ranch in Jan. Can you give me some bike set up recommendations the suspension is all
stock still.
Pitdog: I've ridden many XR650's over the
years and yes, they are "tons" of fun. As we have watched Scott Summers win on
similar equipment over the years, understand he is a tall, strong guy with a very trick
bike. River Ranch has traditionally been a tight track with some straight sections. If it
is the same this year you should be OK. If it gets whooped out you're in trouble. The bike
is not bad on its springs because it weighs so much already. If you are over 175 lbs the
front will need some help. You could add spring spacers and oil but that would make the
weight taller still, and that's a trade off. Set the rear spring to 3.5 - 4 inches sack,
and tires to 12 lbs. Watch the rear end come back up when you push down with your arm so
that you can see the rebound working slightly. Overall, since the XR650 is such an
excellent long distance play bike, you should plan your race with that intent. Come and
have fun for as long as you can and save your serious racing for a serious bike.
Dear Pit Dog, I have a 97' KDX200 stock except bars, tires,
and a WER steering damper. When racing Harescrambles the front forks do nothing for
me on the whoops and braking bumps. The damper makes the front end feel half as
light and I can manage to keep the front wheel up for a short while. But if its a
long whoop straight I almost always go over the bars by the end while I'm getting slapped
by my fender pouch. What can I do to keep the front from dropping in every whoop
without spending the big bucks?
Nicholas Frey B200
Pitdog: I've addressed some KDX shortcomings
so also read down the column. Forks need a lot of spring action as the whoops get bigger
and the stock KDX has little. You could start with 8-10 MM PVC spacers under the springs
for help there, plus adding fork oil (check your book for maximum amount), as much as
12MM. Be sure to reset the rear spring preload after you make changes to the front. The
KDX has a short frame design which works great for turning but gives up a little going
straight. You can't change that, but you could drop the fork tubes down to maximum in the
triple clamps. Also test using more rebound in the shock. You say you get slapped by the
fender pouch which tells me your legs are not straight at that time. Let that bike work
under you by extending you arms and legs in the whoops,( think of a shot of Ricky C.).
I have a 1999.5 KTM 65. The bike will jump into gear when
you push the bike forward with the engine off. Neutral is almost impossible to find engine
running or not, hot or cold. I have adjusted the clutch per dealer instructions but no
help there. At the last race my son fried the clutch. I use Golden Spectro oil. Please
help me!
Pitdog: I'm guessing Golden Spectro oil for
the gear box which is fine. He probably fried the clutch because he was having a hard time
with the shifter. I suspect the shift linkage is bent at some point and that all gear
centers are off. I have no idea what the linkage looks like on that bike, but some bikes
you can see the detent pawl under the clutch cover. If you could start there, you could
inspect for binding and alignment, otherwise, a case split and full professional
inspection is in order. Call Greg at K+P Cycles (407-656-9686).
How do the fast guys slow down when coming into a section
of large braking bumps? Front Brake - Rear Brake - Standing Up - Sitting Down. What is the
best way?
Pitdog: Definitely not sitting down but all
the rest apply. Fast guys use their heads in combination with their talents to find the
best line into a turn. When you walk a section of braking bumps you will see that they are
larger in the center. Not as many riders will have the confidence to ride the edge of the
trail so faster riders look for that line. Gearing down instead of applying brakes is the
best way to loose speed in rough sections. Use light pressure on the rear brake only when
you are forced to. Your legs and arms should be straight and your body position back to
force your momentum to go straight. Front fork set up makes a big difference during
braking. (Read some other Pitdog answers.) Try to plan your serious braking before or
after the bumps. The more you try to brake over bumps, the more the bike will shake and
wobble which will cost you time and energy. Get a little help with your fork set up. Then
go find an area that duplicates the scenario you have a problem with and practice,
practice, practice.
Dear pit dog: I was a member of the South Jersey Enduro
Riders. Recently I was transplanted to Florida, where are the trails? I am a member at Pax
Trax and have enjoyed the MX. However, I do miss the trail riding. Any help you can give
would be greatly appreciated. Mike Collins
Pitdog: If you go all the way to the bottom
of the column (on page two), you will read about some areas we ride here in Florida. Cya
out there.
Pitdog, My son has a 1995 KTM 50. The bike starts
fine when cold or hot, however, if it falls over, it does not want to restart. It
does eventually start but it takes quite a bit of time. I have replaced the spark
plug but it has not helped. I am using the factory spark plug (B8HS) and run 40 to 1
premix. Any suggestions as to what is causing the problem?
Pitdog: Recently I was talking to a Peewee
parent that commented that all 50cc racers should only run a 15 minute race because the
50's get too hot. Is it possible that you are having this syndrome? The basic diagnostic
action for any internal combustion motor is to prove fuel, spark, and compression. Simply
looking at the spark plug will tell you if there is fuel and holding it against the block
will show the spark jumping the gap when you crank it. Your finger over the plug hole will
simply test compression. Because the 2 strokes clear their combustion chambers quickly
after a tip over, I'm suspecting an over heated primary ignition to be the culprit of the
"50cc syndrome." This could be the pickup coil or the ignition module. I would
try to duplicate the symptom and do the basic test. If there was no spark, I would first
let it cool and then see if it starts right up. Solutions to overheated ignition parts are
going to take some real engineering. Talk to Greg at K+P Cycles (407-656-9686) for your
best approach.
I punctured my new Enduro gas tank with a small hole on
the bottom right. Can it be fixed with chemicals? Would I be better off to buy
new? (Just paid $160 for this one!) Your help would be most appreciated.
Twilah
Pit Dog: Never fear my dear, Pit Dog is
here. (Oh, that even hurts to type it.) But yes, the best guy around for plastic and paint
repair is Bikes Only (407-298-1556). Bondo Bill is right here in Central Florida and does
paint and plastic repair for customers worldwide. I know that it takes a special process
to fix certain types of plastic so give him a call. Tell him hi from the Pit Dog with the
tricky Turbo.
Pit dog, I ride Harescrambles and Motocross, but at the
Harescrambles I always have to make a gas stop. Most of my competitors in the Jr.B class
have a large capacity tank or a front number plate tank, and I have lost races because I
was at a gas stop. I really don't want to use the number plate tank and no company makes
the large capacity tanks for my bike anymore. Do you know of any company that sells a
large tank for my '96 RM125, or anyone that has a used one for sale? Thanks a lot.
Pit Dog: Have you made an accurate test of
your fuel mileage or are you guessing? To do a test, top your tank before practice and
then top it again with a jug that's marked off. You will be able to get real close to race
mileage. Also your stock tank should do about 30 miles. Try calling Dorsey at Apopka
Motorcycles (407-422-2383), for the latest in aftermarket fuel tanks. In the mean time,
practice pit stops with your crew using the gallon milk jug. You could add 1/2 gallon of
fuel in less than 5 seconds when a crew member cuts the bottom open. I know you can battle
back the 10 seconds lost in the pits if you change goggles and put on your race face.
Pretend I'm chasing you and nipping at your ankles.