Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - where to ride, how to prepare, bike setup.

Mister Pitdog. Hello. What kind of roll chart holder should I use for the Alligator? I see there are two different sizes, does it matter?

Pitdog: I would think the smaller the better. My roll chart holder will take up to 2 &1/4 inch wide strips. Most clubs make the information about 2 inches. I've had only one time that the info was a tight fit. Put scissors in your tool box with clear tape so you can cut clean strips and tape the ends together to make a roll. If the club supplies a separate reset list, cut it out and tape it to your tank so you can read it instantly. High light the resets on your roll chart so they are easy to find. Use clear tape on the holder lens at the top and bottom just to keep it shut. And don't try to read it while you are underway, because the Alligator will get you!

I have a 1996 KTM 360. I have a problem with it. I cannot start it unless it is in neutral. It seems like the clutch is not letting go when I just pull the clutch in if it is in gear and I try to kick it over. I changed the transmission oil and put the recommended type and grade in it. What could be the problem?  

Pitdog: The clutch is letting go, just not enough. I'm sure you have minimized your end play travel and have a decent cable so I'll go on to the clutch pack itself. Scooters like yours have several drive fiber plates that grip to the metal driven plates that ride in an oil bath. If the fiber plates become contaminated with something like coolant, they will swell and drag between the metal plates. If the clutch had been slipping or the metal plates otherwise got too hot, they will warp and also cause a drag. Wear notches in the clutch basket also cause all the plates to hang up, so inspect it. It's almost impossible to measure fiber plates or inspect for warped metal plates so replacement is the sure test. If the clutch is original 96, then replacement wouldn't hurt anyway. Be sure to replace the springs with new clutch parts every time.

I ride Enduros and Hare Scrambles and have a problem every race with my right hand going numb. It seems to loose feeling in it after a couple of miles into the race. I have to shake it several times to get some of the feeling back. I am not sure if is lack of circulation or the nerves. Does anyone else have this same problem and what can I do to keep this from happening. 

Pitdog: Guess what? Yep, most of us older riders have the same problem. It's called Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. As the muscles are being used in the hand, the Carpal Tunnel which runs down the center and carries the nerves, gets squeezed and limits the circulation of the nerves. The result is you can't feel. When you shake your hand out the circulation returns and the feeling comes back. For an extreme condition, there is an operation called a Carpal Tunnel Release in which the tunnel is cut open to reduce the pressure build up. I've had it done to my right paw and it has been 100% effective. Now my left one acts up.  Because of some limited success, your insurance company will require a test of your disability to determine if the risk is worth taking to operate on your nerves. Plan to not use the hand for at least six weeks, so do the operation in the off season. You may have success with therapy or medication. See your doctor for professional information. Dr. David White is the best. Tell him hi from the Pitdog.

If you can answer this one you'll earn yourself a back scratch. How on earth does one get a legal tag for their scoot? I would like to ride some dual sport events on a 94 DR350. This is what I've done so far. I have the MSO from when I bought the bike new. I have one of the few that do not say "OFF ROAD ONLY" on it any where. When I take this to my local DMV they tell me I cannot get a tag because I am the original purchaser from the dealer and they have to apply for the title at the dealership. When I go to the dealer I bought the scoot from they tell me I have a dirt bike and do not need a tag, (hello)? The Suzuki shop tells me the state tells them it is IMPOSSIBLE to get a tag for an off road bike. Even though my MSO says nothing about it being an off road bike. I personally know of an individual with the exact same bike as mine and he took the MSO and a notarized bill of sale (he purchased it used) and the infamous affidavit signed by a sheriff officer that the bike meets all DOT requirements and had no problem getting a tag. The sheriff's department even dispatched a deputy out to "certify" his bike. This is a problem many of us have and would like the straight WOOF from the dogs mouth. Any suggestions? If anybody has an answer reply THUMPERDUDE@aol.com

Pitdog: Well that's the biggest question I think I've ever gotten. I think the individual got the tag because he showed a bill of sale and the affidavit. The MSO means nothing. I have a friend who got both of his off-road four strokes street legal so maybe you could ask him, paul_racer77@earthlink.net. Sometimes I think the DMV wants you to tell them what they want to hear and nothing more. It's like having your ducks in a row and facing forward. Good luck.

Your DogNess, I recently put a Mikuni TMX34 on a DRS350 (actually it's a 435 now).  It's also got a less restrictive pipe.  My question is jetting this thing.  I have a good idea on getting the main and needle close to correct, (WFO plug chop for the main, and adjust needle until midrange pulls well and doesn't stumble), but I'm clueless when it comes to figuring out the right pilot jet size.   I've read your replies where you say the correct pilot will cause the bike to idle high the first 30 seconds of startup with the choke on, but does that also apply to thumpers?  Maybe a general "how to" posting on jetting a 4 stroke (and 2 stroke for that matter), from main jet down to air (or fuel) screw would help all of us wannabe stoichiometric types?

Pitdog: Stoichiometric? Tilt! Well, the idle high thing is for two strokes because of the oil that settles in the crank area and is picked up on start up to lean out the charge. Now you will understand that the scenario is not there on a four stroke. The pilot however, will have an effect on correct choke operation in that a too rich one will cause easy flooding and a too lean one will result in little choke effect. A four stroke will have the correct pilot when the low speed screw (and that's fuel not air), has a correct adjustment, for clean idle, at about 2 turns out. A plug reading will be the same as a 2 stroke only easier because of no oil. Read some of my other comments on plug reading. Your comment about needle jetting also applies to the pilot, for engine performance off idle, so use that too. I can howl all day about jetting but the real deal is to talk one on one to a pro like Greg at K+P (407-656-9686), for your best performance. Ask him about the DR350 he built for the Pitdog in 91.

Pitdog.  I own a 1983 KE125 Kawasaki.  It runs fine for about 20 to 30 minutes.  After that it starts to break up and then it shuts right off.  After I let it sit for a few minutes it will start right back up for only about 10 min then it shuts off again. What do I do?  Help!

Pitdog: On a guess I would say loss of ignition but it's what, 17 years old. Anytime a motor won't run you need to prove the basics, spark, fuel, and compression. I'm sure it has points ignition so the condenser would be the area I would guess. Just check the spark jumping the gap on a spare plug held next to the block. Engine temperature has the ability to make coils of wire
expand and that's why condensers and ignition coils turn off when old and hot. When the wire gets brittle it makes a bad connection inside. The same goes for other connections to the ignition so detail those areas too. Good luck and sign up in Super Vintage.

I live in Flagler County and ride in the Ocala National Forest.  I was wondering if you knew of any other places around my area that have good riding. I am looking for some new trails that are a little closer than Ocala. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Kyle Miller

Pitdog: I know a many of the readers would howl to live close to such a magnificent riding area such as Ocala. For more, I would suggest contacting and or joining local clubs such as Big Scrub Trail Riders or River City Dirt Riders to get the inside line on some private areas. Also I am certain you know about the Crooms off-road park near Brooksville. In addition, please read up on the action now under way to plan for the future of Ocala with the US Forest Service and all the user groups. Your local knowledge could be of some assistance.

Pitdog. I am 38 yrs old, never raced, and am interested in participating in some FTR events such as the Gatorback Hare Scrambles. Does each event have its own rules for number plates and numbering?...or can I set my bike up for the Vet C or Four Stroke Class (for instance) in all events and not have to buy a different set up for each event?  What is the Vet C set up?  Thanks.

Pitdog: You can get official rules and information from Dan George at DBJ@TOTCON.com. If   you have never raced you could also choose the Beginner Class on Saturday. I would start in Vet C so I could run with riders my age. Also I would stick with one class for the season and review my interest after seeing how it's going. Welcome.

Reeds?  Rad valve?  Fiberglass?  Carbon fiber?  How often do you replace them?  Does it make a difference?  What does the BIG DOG use?

Pitdog: The " Rad Valve" is a brand of replacement reed valve. I get very good service from my reed valves, probably because of my maintenance procedures. My 96 still has the factory reeds. We use a light to check their condition every time the cylinder is off. The difference in most reeds is the design, such as multiple plates and stiffness. The factories have switched between carbon fiber and fiberglass so I haven't seen an advantage with material. The design will change the performance of the motor, like other mods, so they are one of the easiest and most economical bolt-ons. You probably will not notice much of a change in performance unless your existing ones are on the way out. If I need to change mine I will go with ones that are designed to last.

Pit Dog, I'm looking for a a company that makes a flywheel weight for my 1998 CR250. Could you tell me if you know of anybody and if so could you give me their phone number, thanks. Matt

Pitdog: A flywheel weight would definitely be a plus for your scoot at our events. For the guru of aftermarket parts call Dorsey at Motorcycles of Apopka (407-422-2383) for the latest info.

Hey Pit Dog, I get the impression you're partial to Japanese bikes;-)  Do you know why the dirt bike magazines never seem to review the American made brand ATK? I've seen a few at FTR events and they look like good alternatives for those of us who like to 'buy American.'  But it is suspicious that they are never written up in the mags.  What's up with that?

Pitdog: ATK's are an alternative for our events but they focus more on open terrain set up like the XR and DR bikes and you don't see a lot of them either. The Japanese have developed an uncanny ability to give the world products that we find more to our liking than say the European market where it all started. My thinking is that the people at ATK want their individual identity of their product so they will have a larger market. If I had unlimited funds, my race bikes would reflect the best components from the world over which would be far from a stock Japanese unit. As far as what the magazines say, what's the old saying, "believe none of what you hear and half of what you see?" And those moto heads don't give us much testing in the trees anyway.

Pit Dog. I have a 1995 Honda CR250. I am having to pull the clutch lever all the way in to the handle bar to prevent the bike from moving.   Is this normal or should there be a small amount of "play" in the lever? The adjustment locking nut is already all the way in (it was like that when I bought it).   Do you think the problem is with the clutch basket or the clutch cable? Also, I have recently moved to the 250C class and will begin racing on Sundays. My bike has a stock gas tank. Approximately, how many miles per tank will this bike get? I do not presently need to refuel for the Saturday race but I am unsure of the Sunday races (time and distance).  

Pitdog: There should be up to 1/4 inch of play in the lever when cool. You are basically moving the lever, cable, and clutch arm against the pressure plate without moving the plate. Honda uses aluminum clutch plates because they are light and help give the motor snap. They wear faster than steel, however. Steel plates will also give you better tire hook up in rough sections. Cables do wear out but generally don't cause the problem of adjustment. Thin clutch plates cause most adjustment problems while a worn basket will cause the clutch to drag. Clean and inspect all the components for wear and replace with new springs every time.      The distance for the C Class at times will run over 30 miles which might be too far for your stock tank. It's best to top off and measure the fuel after practice to be sure. Also the course will change a lot from the time you practice until the time you race so don't cut it close.

So.... I pulled my cylinder head off to change my piston and there was a lot of condensation (drops of water) on the crank. What's up now? Water level never went down in the radiator. Speak pooch speak. 

Pitdog: Oowww! Oh, you meant in English. I'd either remove the motor from the frame or flip the bike up on it's bars so I could drain the crank area into a clean pan and look for contamination. I'll bet the water wicked into the area when you cleaned your bike before tear-down. Otherwise, it would have to have gotten past the head gasket. Riders are always commenting about water damage to parts after clean up and that's why I advise to use a fine mist with little pressure. Of course if you don't clean your bike then dirt will fall into the engine while you're working on it and your scoot will look like Jonny Simpkin's. A couple of drops won't hurt much but you might want to flush the area anyway. Blow drying the frame area under the tank helps to avoid contamination when the sensitive crank area is exposed. Be sure to use a gasket coating, like Hightack, when you are working with non perfect surfaces. Also use a thread agent on the cylinder and head bolts to get an even torque.

Dear Mr. dog,
I am interested in opening a cycle park in the North Florida area. Do any tracks or cycle parks exist to the public in this area currently? Also, how do tracks and riding areas deal with liability concerns and the ruthless lawyers out to make a buck in case someone falls and gets hurt?

Pitdog: This sounds like the way most of us feel except maybe you have the money, time, and courage. Even though I don't go to the MX tracks up there, I know there are some because of our event schedule and other series around the Southeast. Check out this site and Cycle News for more event info. If you're thinking an off-road practice track I've never heard of a private one open to the public. Because of the way the courts view who's responsible when an injury occurs on personal property, some people and their attorneys, have made off the wall claims that never seam to get resolved. I would think you would want to talk to some track operators and then make a study of cost and time for more answers to your plan. If you open an off-road track, you'd definitely be the man.

Pitdog, I race MX and read all about Enduros and Hare Scrambles. I'm not real sure on how they work. Why can't Quads race Enduros? Please explain.

Pitdog: Just to make sure you know, there are a number of Quad classes in FTR Hare Scrambles. In Enduros, there never has been a class. I suspect it is because Enduros started long before Quads were a glitter in the manufactures eye and the two wheeled guys set the tradition. In addition, an Enduro trail may only be an arrow on a tree, making it very difficult for a Quad that's 3 to 4 feet wide to make the next arrow. As I've said before, it takes more than being fast to do good in an Enduro. Racing a Quad in an event of non evident trail doesn't sound like much fun. In a Hare Scramble, the trail is well defined and you get to practice it. That's a huge difference.

Hey Pit Pooch, I ride a 96 WR 250 and have had great luck with it.  However, lately it has been fowling plugs when 1st started.  After it is warmed up it runs all day without a problem.  I raced this bike for three years, H/S and Enduros, and never fouled a single plug. It only happens at the first start of the day??  What's up??

Pitdog: Many Yamaha riders have noted this problem and not just with the WR or a 96. So many things come to mind about the inherent philosophy of the manufacturer. I believe it to be a combination of factors leading to a fouled plug at first start up. First thing would be the fresh air filter. Be sure to squeeze all the excess oil from it when you do the service. If your silencer hasn't been repacked in a while you are losing back pressure. Spark timing, compression, and the reed valves could need attention so cover their needs. Finally, too much fuel at small throttle openings would be a rich condition. I know when my pilot jet is correct because my bike will idle high for the first 30 seconds of cold start and then the choke becomes too strong and needs to go off. I would put a fresh plug in, on a warm motor, and do some slow trail riding to get an idea of the pilot and needle settings. Obviously if the plug is wet, your problem may be if their correction. Correct low speed jetting will result in the air screw position to be at about 1.5 turns out. Be careful about being too lean when the temperature is cool. Read some of my
other answers for more info on jetting.

More Pit Dog