Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - where to ride, how to prepare, bike setup.

Pitdog: How do you "cross up" a bike over a jump?  I've been riding for about a year (1995 CR125) and I'm now comfortable doing jumps, tabletops, and some fairly long doubles that would have scared me just a few months ago, but I just can't get the bike sideways in the air.  (I've offered to buy the bike av-gas for better in-flight performance but it refuses to cooperate!)  I've tried using my legs during the jump, the front wheel off the lip of the jump, nothing works!  I know I sound like a Sped asking this, but I just gotta know.  Thanks Pit Doggy Dogg!

Pitdog: Lets go back to the early riders in MX. Way back when it all started, riders discovered they could strip the headlights and stuff off a street bike and make it lighter for getting air. A new sport had begun. The problem they found was, the bike wanted to go one way while their body another. In that they then found if they turned the wheel in mid air the two forces would come together for a straight landing. The riders then saw the spectators clapping when they did this so they tried harder to cross it up even more. So now you see the point. In order to land the bike straight after a cross-up, the cross-up must be correcting weight that you purposely made go in the wrong direction on the face of the jump. I think you have already done this to a minor extent when your bike found a rut on a jump and you had to turn the wheel to keep from crashing. This cross-up thing you want to do is a learned skill that you must develop. I would suggest practicing with a bicycle so when you crash you don't have 225lbs chasing you to the ground. You said you found the skill to learn to jump and I'm sure you started with little ones. Develop your skills to show off so that you don't wait around for your collarbone to heal between rides.

Mr. Dog-
I am planning to join FTR as soon as I get my new ride. I just got into trail riding about a year ago and started with a '98 Yamaha RT180.  I am having the hardest time trying to sell it, but that's beside the point. I'm planning on getting a 2000 TTR250. Figuring from what I've heard about MX two strokes, the thumper would be the way to go for the woods. I mainly ride trails, but occasionally like to jump a few whoops. My question is, what's your take on  this? Is it worth what Yamaha wants for it, and will I have a leg to stand on if I decide to go the hare scramble route?  I don't know of anyone who has one or I'd obviously ask them. Your advice would be appreciated.

Pitdog: My take is, the RT180 is worth $1,200 at the most if it is in standard shape. I'm sure you already have an idea of what someone will not buy it for. The TTR250 must be a race bike if the ad shows Jeremy standing next to it. Yamaha has the price up on the 250 because it is mostly a new product and development cost are a lot higher now than when the RT was designed twenty some years ago. My question for you would be, can you restart the thing after a tip over in a H/S? Think real hard about your goals down the road. Do you want to ride the series for a Championship trophy, or do you just want to ride some events for the fun? If I where you, I would look at a late model KDX200 for the trophy, buy the TTR250 for the fun.

I would like to know if there is a way to lower the XR650? It is a 2000 model and is a little to tall. When I come to a stop light I am on my tiptoes and would like to be flat footed.

Pitdog: Did you sit on all the bikes before you bought the 650? If you did the XR100 is the only one most riders can sit flat footed on. The scoot you have has all that travel because it can tame obstacles in the off-road environment. If you bought it for street riding and just wanted the large displacement single, then set it up TT style. Sliding the forks as far up as the factory recommends and turn off some spring preload will give you an inch or two. Replace the front rim with a 18" will lower it some more. I've ridden a lot of XR650's and for off-road I wanted all the travel the set up would allow, but being a short Dog I just had to put up with tip toes on the street.

How can I get to ride at Gatorback motocross track in Gainesville, without being a professional rider?  Do they have practice sessions?

Pitdog: When was the last time we saw a Pro National at Gatorback, three, four years maybe? You can sign up to race in the local series events there. But let me ask you this, are you at least an accomplished C Class MX rider? If not you will become a safety hazard on the track. Motocross is a type of riding that requires timing and confidence. If you go on the track just to practice ride, the accomplished riders will get nervous and ask that you be Black Flagged. Other than that, if you know you can run with the other guys in your class, just show up.

Would like to get into recreational riding, on a tight budget. Would an early 90's MX 125 be more trouble than it's worth? What would you advise to look for and what should I expect? Thanks.

Pitdog: If you read some my column, you will see I'm not very up on older 2 strokes. Seems to me that a lot of riders want to get into riding dirt-bikes but don't want to spend a lot of money right away. Makes sense. So I'll say it again, 2 strokes are designed to be fast, not last. Recently I borrowed my friends XR200 to trail ride with some friends. Everyone else had full on race bikes. To everyone's surprise, and mine, it lead the way on the trails (probably because they were laughing so hard). So what's the point here, a used 4 stroke is the best place to start. They are cheap to buy and cheap to own. You'll have more fun riding every weekend while your buddy's old 2 stroke drains his wallet. When you want to get serious, spend the bucks on something not over two years old and join the us on the line!

What tips do you have on riding in soft sand? I keep sliding around on my dirt bike and falling on my side, usually my left.

Pitdog: If you're falling on your left you were probably born to be a round-d-round racer. Soft sand takes more of everything to ride in. More power, strength, determination, tires, body language. Sand tires can make the biggest difference if you're riding around on old hardbacks, so start there. For going straight, stand up and look ahead so you make only small turning corrections to get to your next turn. In that turn keep your speed up with steady throttle and move your body as far forward as possible so that the forks will compress and the tire will get the most grip. As with most riding problems, find a spot where you can practice the gig time and time again until you get it perfect. If you're not sweating hard you're not riding hard.

Pitdog. There is a group of 20 riders that is wanting to ride Ocala Forest, staying in cottages at Elite Resort in Salt Springs. I'm to understand that we will have to trailer our bikes from there to be able to ride on selected paths. I've called the ranger stations to get some help, but there are no brochures to be sent out with info on them. We will be coming up there Easter weekend to play.  Can you help enlighten us as to the changes made as we understand why we cannot just ride the woods cross-country anymore?  Thanks the gang from Indiantown, Fl.

Pitdog: The changes are happening so fast and with so much disregard to forest users that even the Pitdog can't keep up. We usually go to the Big Scrub area of the forest but we still have to stay off numbered roads. Since some of the areas near Salt Springs are closed wilderness areas and your bikes probably don't have tags, the trailer deal is it. Try using the Web to look in the National Forest site for the latest info on off-road vehicle trails. Maybe this trip will give your group a first hand look at what we can expect to see as public user groups are being shut out of public land. Please do what you can to help FTR and other groups representing responsible motorcyclists.

I have a 1998 KTM Sr. Pro.  The sprockets on the bike are 11t on front and 46t on back.  The stock sprockets are 10t/45t.  Do the 11t/46t sprockets give the bike a slower acceleration with more top end speed?  Do the 10t/45t sprockets achieve a faster acceleration?

Pitdog: Let's do the math. With a 11/46 set up you have a 4.18 to 1 ratio. With the stock 10/45 set up you have a 4.50 to 1 ratio. So with that, we see that the stock gearing turns the front sprocket slightly faster than the replaced set up. This obviously means the motor RPM is higher with stock for the same wheel speed. Therefore you are correct in both statements about gearing. Some riders will keep different front sprockets with them at the races so they can have the best set up for the style of the course. It's faster to replace the front and adjust the wheel so think about it. Remember, the higher the ratio number, the higher the engine wear. 

Pitdog: Reference KTM motorcycles. What does KTM stand for?

Pitdog: Katoom of course! According to the KTM Austria website it's Kraftfahrzeuge Trunkenpolz Mattighofen.
For more info see KTM Austria www.ktm.co.at

Hey Pit Dog, I finally did it, I dumped my four-stroke. I had an XR400 and it just got too heavy. I just recently got a 98 KTM200mxc. It's a blast though I do miss the grunt of the thumper. I noticed during the race, on the 19th, it just doesn't have the top end I need. It's all stock with great bottom but my bud with a pimped out KDX was killing me in the straights. I was running 3rd and 4th gear in the woods. What kind of pipe and silencer would help the mid to top end power without compromising to much down low. Thanks Dog.    #711 b200, formerly #11 b 4-stroke

Pitdog: Read your letter back to yourself and the answer will knock you over. You were running third and fourth gear in the woods when you should have been in second and third. All the riders I talk to say the scoot needs taller gearing unless you also ride MX. You might even try a tooth larger on the front since it's a faster change back. A stock KDX already has a good set up
for Enduro (read road) riding so a pimped out one would smoke any bike with short gearing. When you get yours set up right your bike will fly past your buds in the whoops so get ready.

Pitdog.  I ride a 97 XR200.  In the front shocks I am running about 14 lbs.  I was wondering what you would suggest I run in them.  If I run them in a softer pressure would the front end tend to wash out or bite more?  Thanks for your help  

Pitdog: Wash out. What you are doing is replacing the lack of spring with air that is also a spring in a way. 14 pounds is way to much, however. I have used up to 6 before with satisfactory results. If you can't afford to replace the sad stock springs, then try some PVC spacers for preload. The problem with air is that you will not get the progressive action that the spring gives and your front will just stand up. Also try some 10 weight oil, at maximum level, for better rebound.

Hey Pit Dog. How come I can't get my bike to pass that guy in front of me? My heart says GO, but my head, and most importantly, my wrist says no, no, no! Is there something I can do to the carb, fuel or tires that will override my head? Is that 'no fear' thing not just a shirt? What's a brother to do? Be careful how you reply, there are women & children that read this.        Sincerely, but ashamedly, YOURS

Pitdog: Well YOURS, believe it or not, all of us have the same problem just on very different levels. Usually my problem is I just don't want to crash and lose time. Passing another rider is great fun and a 'shot in the arm' for your confidence but you have to find that desire to make the pass. Your mind is a great internal debater and will just not let you do things it knows you will get hurt doing. This is the main reason there are A, B, and C classes at our events so everyone can compete at their own level. I know you're thinking how can I find this confidence and move up to the next level. It's the same for everyone, practice, practice, practice. Get out there and build your confidence in knowing what your bike will do when you hold that throttle WFO.
As with any particular riding problem, just work on one thing at a time. Set up a figure eight so you can go through a couple of gears and then brake hard for the turn. You're going to find you are making a lot of mistakes when you do it repeatedly. Keep telling yourself to be as smooth as possible because any advanced rider will tell you smooth is fast! You can do it.

Hey Doggy. I ride a 93 KX250 with is 100% stock. My problem is I keep stalling the motor in the sugar sand, like in the corners. What do ya think about a 12 oz flywheel weigh? I'm from WV and ain't learned how to ride in the deep sand yet. Guess I'm just a dumb Hill Billy. Thanks for any advice ya can give me.

Pitdog: Considering the year of your bike, it's probably more the bike than you. Unless the cylinder has been replaced in the last couple of years, it just isn't making the power down low like it needs to. Therefore, when you try to open the throttle when you are being held by deep sand, it can't rev and just stalls. Deep sand takes a lot of clutching on any scoot along with throttle control and this is where you will find your answer. If you had a chance to watch an advanced rider ride a sandy corner you would hear the motor revving as the clutch was slipped to keep the bike moving and straight. I think adding weight to a motor that is weak will only make things worse. Work on clutch control to keep that motor spinning and get off that seat.

Hey Dogg. OK, my bike is an 86 DR125 and runs good and all. When I put it in gear, even with the clutch in, the clutch is tight. It just bogs down and turns off. I moved the needle a notch and it works better and goes. When I jump it bogs and turns off. I'm thinking it's flooding carb but nothing comes out of the overflow tube. Should I cut the tube down some or what? I really need a new bike but until then it needs some fixing. Thanx Dogg.

Pitdog: You're jumping a DR125? When you get your new scoot you'll be able go directly to Pro AMA. The Pitdog doesn't understand why moving the carb needle would help a tight clutch, so I'll just stay on the subject of the carb. Moving the needle down will give a motor more snap if it's a little fat. A symptom of bogging should happen at other times, like coming out of a turn. A low float level would be more of what I might look for when stalling over jumps. Overall, you sound like a young person just trying to learn to ride with what you've got. The Pitdog is very proud of your determination and your desire to make the most of what you have. Try to make your carb adjustments from what you see when you read the plug. ( Read some other Pitdog answers). Also lube the clutch cable if it is in fact "tight."

Thanks Pit Dog,
     First off, thanks for the help answering my all my CR questions.   I'm on my way to having my bike in tip top shape.  I was just wondering though,  my reed did have a piece chipped out of one half.  Its about 1/8 the size of one
side of the reed.  The people at the Honda shop told me to take off the cylinder and try to fish it out, wouldn't it already have been eaten up by the gears, etc.?  Or could it have been shot out the exhaust?  I hear this is a kind of a common problem.   Any suggestions?    Thanks Dogg

Pitdog: Hum, I think the only guy that knows the answer to that one is not really a tech, just kind of an ultimate observer. The proper approach would be to take your cylinder off. You will need at least a base gasket and ring and maybe even a piston or worse so think hard. Combustion chambers are kind of like our digestive systems, what goes in comes out the pipe. Passing the question around to the other dogs we decided that we would "let it eat." Which means, if it gets ground up and hurts the crank, oh well. If it went straight through and out the exhaust, oh good. Since we are starting to dominate the column with the CR story, you could leave your E-mail address and I'll write you direct. Cya.

Dear Pitdog. My bike bogs way down when shifted into 5th gear. It runs fine in fourth but when in fifth it just doesn't wanna go anywhere. What could be the problem? I ride a 91 YZ250.

Pitdog: Age. As the cylinder wears out the compression runs lower and the power just isn't there to pull the tallest gear. Also I'll bet the power valve system isn't working anymore. The real fix would be a new or rebuilt cylinder but the cost would be close to the value of the bike so think hard. You could change the overall gearing with a smaller front sprocket but you may not like the performance in the lower gears and engine wear would accelerate. Dropping the needle a clip would help if it is running a little fat in the midrange but keep a close eye on the plug when you're changing jetting. Please remember that MX bikes are not designed to last, ( they come new with no warranty), so step up to the parts counter if you want it to run like new.

Hey Pitdog. I have a question about a bike I'm about to buy. I want to know any feedback on the 98 RM125. Are there any problems with that model or any information any person should like to know before spending over three grand.
: Will a 80cc or 100cc race bike have a higher power to weight ratio
: top end/maximum speed
: horsepower/torque

Pitdog: The RM has been traditionally the hot set up for MX in the last few years. ( witness the stadium series), while the Yamaha has been the choice of most in the FTR off-road series. Also the Honda and the Yamaha hold their resale value better than the others. I think that 3k plus is a little steep unless the motor is fresh and it comes with an impressive list of goodies. I'll bet you could still find a new left over 99 for about another grand. Keep in mind if it was someone's race bike, it will need a major rebuild of all systems to prevent catastrophic failure within another two years. Pertaining to your list, open bikes have the best power to weight ratio, it will definitely have more speed than a smaller displacement, and the horsepower to torque will have lesser limitations than an 80. If you are shorter than 5'7", and a new rider, I would start with a 100cc. If you can already spank on a mini then go for the 125.

Hi Pitdog. I live in Kingsland, Ga. and would like to know some really nice places to ride my ATVs.

Pit dog: So would the Pitdog family. FTR has ATV racing here in Florida during most of the year but that may put some major miles on the old pickup. There is however still some public forest areas left in this country to enjoy but you better act now to find out all you can about where they are and how you can help to keep them open. If I were you I would use the Web to search in off-road and find clubs that are in your area. You could also go to National Forest and look for riding possibilities. Above all, if you are new to this, please represent yourself as a responsible trail user, wear protective gear, and respect the right of other users on public land. Cya.

Dear PitDog. The unreliable CR's problems turned out to the reeds.  My friend figured since he had the carb off might as well throw in some boysen reeds.  Turns out one of the stock reeds was cracked and the other was missing a piece.  Hope that piece isn't still in the cylinder.  But now its all good again. Thanks.

Pitdog: Great! Now my readers will know the Pitdog can even bark up the wrong tree. It does surprise me however that the scoot didn't also have major starting problems and very poor low end performance. But it just goes to show us how sensitive a 2 stroke racing machine can be to stuff that just wears out, like reeds. I even heard of carbon in the exhaust pipe causing mystery performance. See ya on the line.

Dear Pitdog. I ride a 93 YZ250 and when it's cold it revs very high. Sometimes it sticks wide open and I have to put it into gear and stall it because the kill switch won't work. What could be the problem?

Pitdog: 93, RPMs run up when cold, kill switch doesn't work, here comes that old phrase again, " it's a time bomb!" I'll bet there's chunks of gears and clutch pieces in the oil. When a motor runs high RPMs when cold, it's very lean or getting way to much air. Usually the cylinder base gasket or even the carb boot cause the problem. Try spraying WD40 around those areas when it idles down somewhat. That will help locate the air leak and lengthen your fuse.

Regarding the unreliable CR250: We used air pressure and carb cleaner to clean the carb. There is a fuel filter on the gas line.  But what could cause it to loose power so abruptly once you go to full throttle. A friend recommended putting the needle down a notch?  Other than that it runs a whole lot better and starts easier since we did the cleanup.  Just higher rpm problems.

Pitdog: Makes me want to run over to your house with my tool box and take the plug out so I can read the thing. But hey, I can hardly type with these paws. The needle is mostly out of the picture when the slide is all the way open so work on fuel flow and the main jet action. If the plug is a light color, or white, it's running out of fuel at WFO. If the plug is dark, then the ignition is shutting down and it's a whole new ball game. I'll say it again, it won't run right until the plug color is right so use it as a guide. Remember, everything about the fuel system has to be squeaky clean.

What's up Dogg. I have a question regarding my friend's "unreliable 97 CR250." He's been having trouble with it bogging down at wide open throttle.  It like looses all its power.  We are shade tree mechanizing. We cleaned the carb and the jets, they were pretty dirty, plus put in a much needed fresh plug. Still it is missing once you get past 3/4 throttle. What can he do? Thanks.

Pitdog: Ah, the old shade tree. It's a dogs life. Really guys, if there was a lot of dirt in the jets then it's still in the tank, the petcock, the needle, and yes back in the jets! I pulled a carb apart the other day that had a dog hair in it. (Not mine.) The point is, even a very small amount of contamination can wreak havoc on fuel control. Every part of that system needs to be perfectly clean. You will probably need air pressure and carb cleaner to get the job done right so make a plan. Remember, you could easily seize the motor if it runs to lean. 

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