Pit Dog answers questions about Dirt Bikes and Trail Riding in Florida - how to prepare, bike setup and maintenance.

Dear Pitdog. I ride a 92 WR250. When riding a lot the engine revs out and the kill switch won't work. I have to pop the clutch to shut it off. What could the problem be?

Pitdog: Sounds like you're getting an air leak somewhere that opens up with heat expansion. Start by looking at the reed plate gasket and carb boot. Does your kill switch work at other times? If it does, then your motor is just running on its own heat when the idle runs high. Stalling it in gear is your only option at that time.

Pit Dog... I have a '89 Suzuki RM125 and I keep having water pump failures.  I have replaced all the parts of the water pump twice, both times in '98, and I was wondering what why am I having these problems. I'm only a trail rider, but am thinking about getting into racing.  If you could help me I would appreciate it. Doug-Sebastian.    

Pitdog: Since you said you replaced all the parts twice, I tend to think you have not found which part specifically failed. Adding the fact that it's an 89, my guess is that the drive gear to the pump is running loose or out of line. Also the case bosses could be too worn where the pump bearings fit. I feel certain that with a thorough inspection of the parts involved with water pump drive, you are going to find a devastating failure of a major component. As always, I don't encourage trying to rebuild a unit that will not be dependable to ride for a given period of time. Unless you have a fat wallet like some of the Vintage guys, think hard about what's going on.

No question, just a suggestion for your KTM 200mxc rider. He might want to try running a PowerCore II from the KTM250 and see if that helps. It seems to on my '00 200exc.    Mike's Cycle Center

Pitdog: Thanks Mike's.

Pit Dog... What's your take on K&N Air Filters for a dirt bike???  I run one in the 'ol truck and it works great. I was just wonderin' how'd they do in our Hare Scrambles Scoots? I am fairly new to dirt bikes and would like to know what would be considered a good air filter for a 4 stroke? I've been recommended a Twin Air and a White Bros...which is better?Thanks in advance...still a beginner!

Pitdog: What I like about a foam filter is I can squeeze the thing to get all the fine sand out in the final rinse. You can't squeeze a hard filter like the K&N. Plus the oil on the foam filter helps to trap dust and minor amounts of water where a hard media doesn't take oil. Road bikes and trucks are not in sand and water like off-road bikes so I would stick with the Twin-air.

Dear Pitdog. I recently put new sprockets on my 1996 YZ250. I kept the front the same but the back was dropped from a 51 to a 45 because of a shipping error. Will this affect my power in the bottom a lot?

Pitdog: Let's see, you went from a 3.64 to a 3.21 if you have a 14 front. Now that your scoot will go 80 MPH, you will need it in the desert to catch the guys that pulled the 10 bike hole shot on you. Hot as Florida is, this is not the desert. Our events have trees and roots that you need the have instant acceleration in, so tall gearing is not exactly the trick setup. It's also hard on your clutch. If you already put it on your scoot, you get to keep it. If not, send it back for a gear you will be happy with

Pit Dog,
   I have a 98 KTM 200mxc that I ride in the Scrambles. I just recently got an FMF Gnarly pipe and Powercore II for it. It improved the bottom to mid range in addition to giving it a harder hitting power-band but it still lacks the top end speed I need. As of now I'm running a 14/50 sprocket combination. I read in a magazine that they recommend going to a 45 tooth rear. Would this take a considerable amount of bottom off, or should I add a tooth on the front? Any suggestions? Thanks dog............#711 B-200

Pitdog: Sounds to me that you are in the same predicament as other KTM riders. What I hear most is that the motor just signs off early no matter what gearing or pipe set up. Going from a 50 rear to a 45 would be going from 3.57 to 3.21, and probably too much for the motor to pull cleanly from down low. Changing the front from a 14 to a 15 would be going from 3.57 to 3.33, and be lesser of hit. A lot of Enduro riders do the front gear change because it smoothes out the power and makes the scoot less of a handful for the long hours. Your low speed carb jetting will make a huge difference in final motor performance so work on that at the same time. Besides, replacing the front sprocket is a third of the cost of a rear for testing. You can also change the motor characteristics with compression, porting, and ignition mods but that will also open another can of worms. I say test the 15 front.

Pitdog...I have a 1995 CR250.  I purchased the bike in 1998 and put a new piston kit in right away.  What is the appropriate maintenance schedule for the piston kit?  The compression is currently 160 lbs.  I have always been of the impression that the compression should be between 170 - 200 lbs.   Is that right?

Pitdog: As the compression drops, the low end power tends to fall off and it's hard to notice. Checking the cranking compression is a relative way of looking at piston to cylinder condition. Your best bet is to remove the piston and measure the difference in it's size to the cylinder. As the cylinder wears the piston harmonics pick up and cracking begins. A new piston will have good compression but a short life if the fit is larger than five thousandths for a 250. I'll bet your 95 has a fairly worn cylinder by now and needs to be re-plated for new piston life.

Hey Pitdog! I am an expert level motocrosser that wants to do some H/S this coming season. My problem is that I am stuck on what to get for a bike. What do most of the AA guys run? How do they set them up? I was thinking of getting the YZ426, but now I am not so sure because of the starting issue. I want something that will be reliable and will last a couple of seasons. Any suggestions?

Pitdog: Most any scoot will last a couple of seasons with proper care. When I stand at the finish of the AA race, I see Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, 250s and 125s. I also saw a DRZ400 ridden by some wild guy with blue jeans and cowboy boots finish fourth overall at the last event! Don't see many Hondas in the top three. I would buy the KX250 without any worries although I would also buy the Yamaha if someone would give me a bunch of blue gear. Because the top three riders tend to use themselves up on the 2 strokes, I don't see a YZ426 becoming the series champ.

I have a 2000 CR 250 and like to ride on the track and trail but it is too loud for some of the places I ride.  What is the quietest after-market silencer/spark arrestor without regard to power loss and which is the quietest while retaining full power? Thanks for the help.

Pitdog: A Forestry Service approved spark arrestor will be the quietest available silencer available over the counter. Most units have the same parameters for noise and restriction. Something really quiet will have to be hand made for a 2 stroke. Engine performance will be greatly diminished and major re-jetting will be required. This therefore becomes unattractive because it will not be a quick change to go back to normal performance. I would buy a beater 4 stroke for quiet practice and keep my race bike a race bike.

What's up Pitdog? I have a 1985 Suzuki RM125 and it started to overheat ever since I changed the clutch cable. I know if it is too tight the clutch will overheat. Will that make the engine hotter or just the clutch basket? Got any tips on settings?P.S. Do you have a general area map of Crooms? It's in the Brooksville, Fl.

Pitdog: I can't figure that a slipping and therefore hot clutch would have much effect on the engine's cooling system, especially since you would notice a clutch slipping that bad and stop anyway. I'll bet your winter jetting is ready for a summer change, and that's my set up tip. Stop and read your plug when it's running hot to prove if it's too lean or having a cooling system problem. Read some of my column for jetting tips. Cooling system diagnoses will be much more involved. Go to Mapquest.com for area maps and close-ups

How can you tell if your forks  are slightly twisted. >and what  would be the proper why to correct them.
Thanks

Pitdog: Since forks are so long and slide within each other, they get twisted all the time on side impacts. I usually stop and bump the front of the tire against a tree until the bars line up again. It's not very scientific but what else can you do on the trail? To check for a twist at your shop, put the scoot on a center stand and lay a 3 or 4 foot flat bar or board across the triple clamp at the fender. What you will be checking is the triple clamp compared to the axle. Sight up the rear tire to see if the seat is in line
with the frame. Find a point on the seat that is also the center of the bike. When you measure to the check bar, from the seat center, the distance will need to be equal at the ends. This centers the triple clamp with the frame. Now you can align string between the tires to check the tracking. The rear tire needs to be straight in the swing arm before you start.  If the front tire is out, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts and bump straight. To check for a single bent fork, you must take the spring out and slide if up by itself to feel for binding. After you have aligned the tire and the triple clamps, check your handlebar ends to the center point. I use a big pipe to do the final straightening. When you take it off the stand, loosen the front axle pinch bolts and making sure the axle can slide in the pinch, bounce the front so the forks will find their common center. Remember, don't try to do the front if the rear sub-frame and wheel isn't straight first. Now straighten up and fly right!

Hey Pitdog, What is the best all around pipe for the Banshee? Jim 7B

Pitdog: Performance pipes all have different design intentions. Asking the Pitdog, a 2 wheeled guy, is like you know what in the wind. My question would be, do you want it to pull your arms off on top, or wheelie between the trees? I'm sure all the other 4 wheel guys will say that whatever pipe they have on is the best. Call Greg at K & P Cycles, 407-656-9686. He might have a tuner viewpoint.

Dear Pitdog. I'm trying to get the address for the Hess Field in Oldsmar, Fl. It's listed in the motor cross track guide for Florida. There is a phone number but when called the answer machine picks up and the reply has no mention of the track. Do you know anything about this place {i.e.} address, fees, times, etc. Please help, I am desperate. If I don't find a place to ride that is relatively close soon I am going to take up golfing and forget the whole thing! P.S., I am also looking for a Mx-trail partner. I live in Largo if you know of any puppies looking for a tag along I would appreciate it. Thanks, fitzbaby@juno.com.

Pitdog: Don't know. Anybody else got a hint?

Dear Pitdog. I have a question. I recently purchased a 1990 KX500 and when I am idling in gear, with the clutch in, there's no problem. When I rev in gear, with the clutch in, the bike jerks forward. Not a lot mind you but enough to know there's a problem. My question is what could be the reasons for this and what are the solutions? I tried adjusting the clutch but this did not help.

Pitdog: I've addressed this problem before with clutch baskets, it's worn and needs to be replaced. The plates are binding in the chatter spots and will not slide around freely. 90 KX500? I'll bet the chatter spots look like the Grand Canyon.

Hi I just bought a bike from someone who raced Harescrambles.  It's a 1996 YZ125. It runs great but I'm concerned about the premix ratio they told me to run.They said 50:1, but I'm running 40:1, and the manual says 32:1.   The way I run it (40:1)seems to work OK but I foul a LOT of plugs and it seams to smoke more, I'm also a beginner.  What should I do, go back to the 50:1 or is there something that I can do like adjust the carb or ...? Thanx Vanessa

Pitdog: I run 50:1 in all my 2 strokes, even the weed-wacker. You will notice more exhaust smoke with a heaver oil ratio especially if you are just putting around. If the previous owner said it was jetted for 50:1 you need to stay there to be safe, and if someone else rides your bike hard it might hurt it on another ratio. Use the air screw to give the engine more slow speed air while you learn to ride harder. This is after all a race bike that wants to be raced. Also talk to the previous owner about other tips. Any fuel mix, with proper jetting, you end up using will foul plugs if you just putt around. Find straight, smooth areas to open it up every now and then.

Need help Pitdog. I would like to get a new bike but don't know what to get. I have a 1998 Suzuki DR350 that's old style compared to the Suzuki DRZ400 or the Yamaha YZ426 - WR400. I ride trails most of the time, some Motocross. What would be the best one? I hear so much junk about the YZ426. Some guys say you can use it for trails, but the guy at the Yamaha shop said your going to waste money, the bike is for Motocross only.

Pitdog: Sounds to me like the Yamaha guy doesn't want to sell a bike. Even though a stock DRZ400 hasn't been reported as a box Motocross unit, it's worlds better than the 350. The Yamaha of course comes race ready for any type of competition, from Motocross, to Off-road, to Flat Track, in the box. The point is, are you ready for a full on race bike? Going from a DR350 to anything ready to race will be a major jump. Consider you riding ability and what series you want to compete in. Remember that a race bike is higher maintenance than a trail bike. Keep in mind that 4 strokes are heaver and harder to start during an event. Look at what the riders in your class are running and ask them why.

Hey Pit Dog, I never ride or race with a kidney belt and I've seen others do the same. Am I going to pay for this down the road? I seem fine and have no pain after even the most punishing events? Glenn 00-490041

Pitdog: I think a kidney belt is an item of person preference. I tried for years to get comfortable with one and could not. I found it to hard to breath normally even though it was barely tight. They do, however, offer some back support which may be a second reason for their design. You ask "am I going to pay for this down the road" well, some skeptics might say you need a suit of armor. You might see me play riding in my birthday fur, with boots and helmet, but I recommend wearing as much safety gear as possible as long as it's comfortable.

Dear Pit Dog. I just bought an 98 Suzuki RMX250.
The bike rides good, but how does it compare to the 2000 TTR250.

Pitdog: I've owned both the RM250 and the RMX. I have not ridden the TTR250 although I have read the reports. It sounds to me like the TTR falls a little short of being a race bike. Sort of like a DR350 without the displacement. I also had a trick DR. The only thing a RMX can boast over a RM is the running head and taillight, because a serious racer would retro fit a RM for Enduros. With the TTR being a 4 stroke, I can see Yamaha maybe trying to make a scoot to run with the Internationally popular Honda XR250. To be fair almost nobody races a RMX stock, so why not allow some mods to the TTR to make it race ready. All it takes is time and money.

Hey Pitdog, any trails or places to practice in South Florida,south of West Palm Beach?

Pitdog: Since the Pitdog marks his area in Central Florida, he only rides club events in South Florida, so that's where I would start.  Contact Palm Beach Track and Trial Riders to find out how you can help the club. Through that association, you will belong to the strongest group of riders in that part of the state. You will be rewarded for your help.  Here's their listing from the club page on this site:
Palm Beach Track & Trail Riders - Randy Rash 2651 SW 20th St Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33312 954-316-8664 maxey19@aol.com

Dear Pitdog. The 89 Yamaha Blaster I asked you about had a carb problem. I bought a new carb from Yamaha so it's jetted correctly. Now the bike starts on one kick with no choke but I have another problem, it won't idle. Anyway my question is, the idle screw just turning, do you have any suggestions?

Pitdog: A new carb from the factory will have a base setting. You will still need to jet it for the bike, especially one that's 11 years old. At this point it sounds like you're still struggling with the idle and the mixture. It it's not done correctly you could ruin the motor. I would say ask the Yamaha shop to set it up for you so you can ride instead of throwing money at it.

Hey, my name is Nolen and I am 14. I have been riding my ATC110 and I am just starting to work on my dads old 1976 400. I put in a new piston and stuff but I think that it gets its oil from the transmission. I heard older bikes used to do that. When I was flushing the engine with kerosene in the oil hole, I noticed that it flowed into the crank shaft. When I got it running, I mean it smoked enough to fill my back yard with smoke. I was running 32:1 and still it smoked too much. If you know about this could you please tell me.   p.s. When I drained the gas, that was still in the gas tank (not connected to carb so it did not get there), it was regular gas no oil. Thanks.

Pitdog: The Pitdog thinks you should write a column about your life, it's funny! I also commend you for your determination. Some older bikes did not get their oil from the premix because they had injector oil systems. You didn't say what brand 400 but I don't remember such a system on a 400. If you poured kerosene into the transmission oil fill hole and it flowed into the crankshaft, (how did you see that?), the crank seals are toast. They would have been anyway just from age. Maybe it was the straight gas in the fuel tank that forced you hand on the piston in the first place. As always, you should look at how much money you are spending on this scoot compared to how good it will run and for how long. If it has a lot of memories, clean it up real good and put it on display in your bedroom. Then take the money you would have blown on it and buy something that runs.

Looking for good place to ride in Orlando, Fl, and the name of moto track north of Daytona?

Pitdog: Orlando Motocross Track is in the town of Bithlo,Fl, in east Orange County. Pax Track is in Bunnell, Fl.

I was wondering how Scott Summers is doing after his accident last year?I suffered a similar dislocated hip injury on a Honda XR. What steps can I do to get ready for the new season? I run a XR650L so starting is not a problem. I don't want to spend another week in the hospital but I can't stop riding either.

Pitdog: The Pitdog can see you've got the sprit and the large scoot. I know Scott is an editor for Dirtbike magazine so pick up a copy to find his address. Physical therapy is a pedigree a little above the Pitdog so ask a doctor for information regarding your preparation for coming back. I will say that having a positive attitude is your first step to doing what you want, and you already have that. Go one step further and practice deep concentration on an objective. This ancient art of mind focusing is within all of us, free for the taking, so take advantage and stay off the ground.

Pit Dog, I have a 93 CR250 and the shock is unreasonably soft. I have sent it off 3 or 4 times now and the suspension shop swears that there is nothing wrong with it. It has never been re-valved and even stiffer springs have not helped. It has also been completely rebuilt twice in these 3 or 4 trips. It bottoms out completely to the ground constantly. I run at least a 5.6 spring or stiffer now and weigh 200 and the clickers have no effect at all on the shock. Also my forks are very harsh and the beginning travel is stiff I've tried everything (aligning the axle and checking torque specs and turning the clickers) do you have any advice? Forks have a .42 spring. Thanks Pit Dog.

Pitdog: Here's another great example of a rider spending money on an older MX bike. It's 7 years old and worn beyond repair guy, replace with new! I am surprised the tuner working on the shock didn't advise you the dampening bore was worn out so forget him for a straight answer. I'll also bet a pogo stick from Toys-R-Us would have better action than your fork. Retire this bike to a lighter rider needing to learn how to ride and look for something around 2 years old for racing.

Hi, my name is Blake. I am wanting to race ATV's. I live in Williston, Florida near Ocala. I am 13 years old. Can you tell me if I can race ATV's? I also need to know what the qualifications are? Are there age groups for this? Do I have to have a certain type of 4 wheeler? Are there cc classes?

Pitdog: Again, the Pitdog does not define the rules for FTR. Please E-mail debarydan@earthlink.net, for official FTR information. I will say we have four classes of ATV racing in the FTR H/S series. They are 2 Stroke A & B, and 4 Stroke A & B, any displacement. You will likely need a racing design ATV if want to stay ahead of the crew pulling arrows.

Pitdog, I recently read an article in the Dirt Bike Magazine.  It said that they recommend not to use oil on any O-ring chains.   They said the effects of not using chain lube is less than the effect of using it. When it is applied the chain will get worn out because of the dirt sticking.  I have been using Bel-Ray Chain Lube and I notice that the sand sticks to the chain and it doesn't come off easily.  Would you recommend not using a lube or using one on an O-ring chain.  If you do recommend using a lube what is the best product out on the market to use.  Thanks for your
help. 

Pitdog: I think I said something on chains in a previous answer but everyone knows the Pitdog has a short memory and a long tail. You are correct in observing that some chain lubes cause dirt to stick to the chain. This is not good. Professional tuners use chain lube on race bikes because the torque limit is closer on the chain with the horsepower from the motor. Of course so much dirt sticks to the chain it becomes garbage after few races. But who cares, the chain sponsor has provided a case of chains. In our world we spend over 100 dollars for new stuff and it's a factor of more money, more money. I recently replaced my top quality chain after just over a year of riding or racing almost every weekend, (just ask Mrs. Pitdog), on my race bike. Does it make big horsepower? Just ask the other dogs that I pass like the're tied to a tree! I have always used just soap and light water pressure to clean my O-ring chain and WD40 to keep it from rusting. This attracts very little dirt between the sprocket teeth where most of the wear oocurs. If you are a serious MXer you might not want to run an O-ring chain because of it's extra
weight so you must use heavy chain lube. For off-road, go O-ring and WD40.

Regarding the Salt Springs riding question.  My neighbors all ride and race dirtbikes in FTR.  We usually make the trip up to Salt Spring once a year.  We have found that Camp Delancy is only 10 minutes away from the campground. We trailer our bikes to Delancy but I have noticed that highway 17 has very large shoulders and there seems to be as much ATV traffic as automobile traffic along the road.

Pitdog: Good observation. The fact is however, nobody can ride an unregistered motor vehicle on a public road easement. (Except for clean up crews.) Even though riders do it all the time, especially in rural areas, it's still not legal. Since FTR represents responsible motorcyclist, I find this a little shady. Please continue to support riding off-road vehicles in approved riding areas.

Hello Pitdog, it's the Quad guy again. I have a question on a Banshee. If you put a Coolhead on the bike and want to continue to use pump gas what is the most horsepower domes I can use? Thank you. #72 B

Pitdog: That's a question of math. The equation for compression has the squish area in it along with the displacement to calculate the compression ratio. If you reduce the stock squish area with a smaller dome, pump gas may not cover the limits of pre ignition. Heat and load are some remaining factors. Since this creates unknowns, performance test will be the only way to find the final answer.

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